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In neutral does it work with the clutch released, though? Likely not your issue, but when I had a starting issue I never tried starting in N but with the clutch released, because I'm mentally ingrained that the clutch MUST be depressed when not moving no matter what.
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Jan 25, 2016 00:07
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10A IGN fuse was blown, swapped it with the horn fuse and the oil light comes on now in addition to what was previously working, but still no starter. I've tried to start it in first with clutch in, neutral with clutch in and out, all with no response from the starter at all.
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Jan 25, 2016 01:25
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If it was all working when you took it apart, then you put it back together and found a blown fuse, you probably shorted something out somewhere. Triple-check all your wiring. e: and check the fuse that you just swapped in -- it might have already popped if there was a wiring problem and you didn't fix it before trying again
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Jan 25, 2016 02:21
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Question about Lithium Ion batteries. (Shorai in particular) I've been using a Battery Tender to charge my Shorai but hardly holds a charge. I really need to get a charger that is Li compatible. I'm leaning toward the official Shorai charger, but I've just now been informed about the NOCO "Genius" chargers. Would those be comparable to the Shorai charger? I was looking at the charger on their website, and I noticed it had a "Li Battery Mode" but it didn't have a "Li Storage" mode (which keeps the battery at a 60% charge) Has anyone had any experience with the Genius chargers on Li batteries?
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Jan 26, 2016 01:06
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I have tended to stay away from lithium-ion vehicle batteries in general since z3n pointed me to this postkastein posted:Alright, I'm going to do something I rarely do now and poo poo all over a specific brand of aftermarket automotive component. Mostly because the level of ignorance and/or disregard for customers displayed in this product is... shocking. No idea if Shorai is any better, but I don't want to take the chance just to save three or four pounds.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:10
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We had one customer with a Shorai (the only bike we've yet seen in some long term service with a lithium I think, aside from race bikes belonging to people we know) and he had a couple of them fail in a row on him.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:38
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Just take an extra big poo poo before you ride and skip the lithium batteries
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Jan 26, 2016 04:39
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DevCore posted:Question about Lithium Ion batteries. (Shorai in particular) You're not supposed to keep LiFePo batteries on a regular charger. This thread on advrider is the best thing I've found on the internet about batteries but it's dense. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/motorcycle-batteries-agm-gel-wet-lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4.757934/ the summary is: if LiFePo, buy the biggest earthx that will fit. Anecdote: I have had a shorai for a year and it's been fine. They need to warm up in the cold but it doesn't really lose charge in the same way regular batteries do.
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Jan 26, 2016 13:16
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Quick q, do I need a damper rod holder to swap springs on upside down forks? The guide I'm looking at makes it seem like I do, but only for reassembly - just wanted to make sure I'm reading it right.
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Jan 27, 2016 04:32
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Damper rod holder? No, you can use your fingers. You do need to make the Y looking thing that goes under the top lock nut though. Also need something to compress the fork spring. I use these:  It's a two person job, one person being fairly heavy or strong. Screw your rebound adjuster down to the last click before you take the fork apart. This will save you from a wtf moment when you lose track of how far the fork cap was supposed to be screwed down when reassembly. Changing that will change the amount of clicks / turns in to out you have. Been there, hosed that up. Holy poo poo that was a lot of edits. Sorry. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 04:40
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I've got the racetech compressor. Not sure about the Y thing though. Going by this guide, so if there's anything off lemme know -- I can't find any other guides that are better illustrated.
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Jan 27, 2016 04:52
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Oh, you've got the baller compressor. Don't need the Y thing and it can be done by yourself. Nice. 1. Screw in your rebound adjuster 2. Crack the fork caps loose 3. Take the forks off the bike 4. Unscrew the fork caps all the way, drop the fork body down 5. Push down the preload plastic piece (this is called a preload spacer) with your fork spring compressor 6. Crack the lock nut below the fork cap and unscrew the fork cap, take it off and set it aside. The rebound adjuster is the long fucker in the center 7. Let the pressure off the fork springs 8. Dump the poo poo in the inside out, pump the rebound rod to empty the fork 9. Fill fork with fluid, pump rebound rod to get out all of the air - SLOWLY 10. Compress fork, suck out fluid to the fork oil level you want - this is measured from the top down so 100mm fork oil level means there is a gap of 100mm between the top and where the oil sits 11. Drop springs in 12. Recompress preload piece + springs 13. Thread fork cap on and bottom it out lightly, then bring the lock nut up and get it all tight 14. You know the rest BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 04:53
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We've only sold a few Shorais and have had mixed feedback. My favorite, though, was a guy swearing up and down that it's perfectly fine to use a lead-acid charger on a lithium battery. Claims he called Shorai and they recommended just using a started Battery Tender Jr. (not their $80+ charger). So, clearly, the battery was defective and we should refund him after he killed it.
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Jan 27, 2016 18:45
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My wife's Shorai doesn't have me sold. I can leave the Ulysses in the cold garage for 3 months on a regular Harley battery and it fires right up; the Shorai can barely push the Beemer's engine over after sitting for a week, needs to be on the fancy Shorai tender all the time.
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Jan 27, 2016 18:47
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I plan to use a lithium on a race bike this summer. Other than that they seem pointless.
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Jan 27, 2016 19:53
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What should I use to get an old tank pad off? Something that'll destroy the glue but not eat the paintwork, I'm guessing alcohol?
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Jan 28, 2016 08:09
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clutchpuck posted:My wife's Shorai doesn't have me sold. I can leave the Ulysses in the cold garage for 3 months on a regular Harley battery and it fires right up; the Shorai can barely push the Beemer's engine over after sitting for a week, needs to be on the fancy Shorai tender all the time. Is this after trying to crank for a while/turning the headlight on to warm the battery?
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Jan 28, 2016 08:17
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Renaissance Robot posted:What should I use to get an old tank pad off? Something that'll destroy the glue but not eat the paintwork, I'm guessing alcohol? Heat and a plastic scraper will be the safest. It's hard to say what solvent will work properly without knowing what kind of glue it is. The more likely it is to dissolve the glue, the more likely it is to also dissolve the paint.
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Jan 28, 2016 08:57
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Concur with heat and plastic scraper to get the worst off, but WD40* and alcohol** is great for glue and doesn't hurt the paint*** when you just give it a quick rub with a soft cloth and rinse afterwards. * shut up about water displacement ** avoid vintage wines and paint thinner *** don't sue me if it does
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Jan 28, 2016 12:45
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Lighter fluid, like the stuff for zippo lighters, is my go-to for gentle adhesive removal. It's good for removing grease, tar flecks and stuff, evaporates quickly without leaving a residue. If it's cold where you are I'd also warm everything up with a hair dryer.
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Jan 28, 2016 13:52
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The escalation process for getting rid of stickers is hot soapy water on a sponge held against it for a minute or two, then zippo fuel, then isopropyl, then ether-based contact cleaner (this is the most likely to bugger up your lacquer so it's your last resort). Alternatively most art or photographic supply shops should be able to sell you adhesive remover which works well but is pretty pricey.
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Jan 28, 2016 14:02
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Pope Mobile posted:We've only sold a few Shorais and have had mixed feedback. My favorite, though, was a guy swearing up and down that it's perfectly fine to use a lead-acid charger on a lithium battery. Claims he called Shorai and they recommended just using a started Battery Tender Jr. (not their $80+ charger). So, clearly, the battery was defective and we should refund him after he killed it. Uhh, maybe I misunderstand but it looks like http://shoraipower.com/about-us agrees with your angry customer, in writing. I mean, I'm sure their charger is better for it but it looks like lead-acid chargers are compatible. No one take my word on that interpretation, though, I might be missing something. edit: Thanks to builds character, I understand now what the customer hosed up on. That being said, given that customer's orders, I would've done the same gently caress-up but it'd have been my fault. Verge fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 14:52
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Verge posted:Uhh, maybe I misunderstand but it looks like http://shoraipower.com/about-us agrees with your angry customer, in writing. I mean, I'm sure their charger is better for it but it looks like lead-acid chargers are compatible. You should read that thread I posted earlier. You can charge them with regular chargers but you can't leave them on a charger forever.
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Jan 28, 2016 15:25
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What is the goon opinion on oscillating headlights? The original owner had one set up for the highbeam on my ninja, if I weren't too lazy to dig into it I think I would have taken it off by now.
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Jan 28, 2016 15:51
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I don't mind them, they're just one more thing you can do to be more visible.
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Jan 28, 2016 17:13
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builds character posted:You should read that thread I posted earlier. You can charge them with regular chargers but you can't leave them on a charger forever. Thanks, dawg. I was fuckin' up LiFePO4 and LiPo: generalizing them in my head as Li-ion. LFPs are fuckin' weird. Now I understand, thank you.
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Jan 28, 2016 17:15
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gently caress I missed all the battery chat and I'm too lazy to go back and re-quote everything. Everyone should have one of these though: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Multi-Functional-Portable-External-Flashlight/dp/B00O1T056A This is more suited for bieks: (and $30 cheaper) http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Advanced-Protection-Flashlight/dp/B00T2GT9L4/ref=pd_sim_263_2
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Jan 28, 2016 18:47
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:gently caress I missed all the battery chat and I'm too lazy to go back and re-quote everything. Seconding this. That's what I have and they're good and work. They also charge your phone too, which is probably 4/5 of the use they've gotten from me.
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Jan 28, 2016 19:39
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Need to replace the (rider) footpegs on my Hawk GT. Anyone got any recommendations?
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Jan 28, 2016 23:04
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Sagebrush posted:Need to replace the (rider) footpegs on my Hawk GT. Anyone got any recommendations?  linked
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Jan 28, 2016 23:14
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Sagebrush posted:Need to replace the (rider) footpegs on my Hawk GT. Anyone got any recommendations? Me too, same bike. From my research, I can't find anything that is a direct plug n play. Your best bet is probably to get some RC51 or CBR600RR pegs and grind or file them to fit. You can also use passenger pegs. Don't buy any cheap new ebay ones, they break. Are you looking for rubber-top pegs or metal?
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Jan 28, 2016 23:14
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Yeah, I think that everything is going to require some grinding, that's normal. Just looking for something that won't require *too* much modification, and that will sit at the right angle. Don't really care whether they're rubber or metal, as long as the metal has a grippy surface. Certainly don't want anything pointy and chrome  VFR and CBR pegs look like close fits, yeah. VFRs are closer. When you say "cheap eBay pegs," what's your definition? Every kind of peg is available on eBay at every price point from $5 to $200. What should I be looking to pay to get decent ones? Or do you mean I should go OEM only?
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Jan 28, 2016 23:20
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Sagebrush posted:VFR and CBR pegs look like close fits, yeah. VFRs are closer. When you say "cheap eBay pegs," what's your definition? Every kind of peg is available on eBay at every price point from $5 to $200. What should I be looking to pay to get decent ones? Or do you mean I should go OEM only? I would avoid anything that is new and is not OEM. Try passenger pegs from a CBR, many people remove them so there are literally hundreds on ebay for cheap. As far as new quality pegs, not sure what a good brand is, but they'd be pricey.
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Jan 28, 2016 23:38
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 Chinese pot metal on the right
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Jan 29, 2016 00:10
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Cool. I just bought some OEM VFR passenger pegs for $30. We'll see how much modification they need once they arrive, but if all else fails, I've got a mill and an AC TIG 
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Jan 29, 2016 01:23
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Stupid question incoming : I'm a new rider and coming from a diesel car, so I'm in the dark at what my normal operating rpm? Should I be trying to keep my rpm less than 2500 when I'm going straight down the road and not accelerating, or is cruising at 5-6k a normal range?
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Jan 29, 2016 02:22
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my 400 doesn't drop below 5k+ until I hit a stop light
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Jan 29, 2016 02:31
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watch the speedometer, not the tach, and give it hell without egregiously breaking the laws
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Jan 29, 2016 02:37
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I mean, it depends on the bike. My ninja 250 cruised at like 9k, my sv650 likes 5k.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:02
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Pikey posted:Stupid question incoming : We'd have to know what bike. Twin, single, i4, v4, parallel twin, weird rear end BMW boxer engine, etc. Generally if you're cruising at <3/4 of your maximum rpm then you're fine. Plenty of bikes are happy to sit at a higher percentage than that without breaking, some aren't My FZ6 probably makes half a horsepower at 2500, but it's perfectly happy to do 80mph at 7k all day. I think peak hp is ~12500 and rev limiter is ~14500 anyways. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 03:28
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