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Alpine Mustache posted:Is the cordless Hitachi drill recommendation on the first page still accurate, or is there something better to look at now? The single biggest factor in choosing the brand of your cordless drill is what battery system you're buying into, so the big question there is what else might you want down the line? If you're looking for something convenient, I'd highly recommend looking at 12v lines. They've got plenty of power and battery life for most casual needs, and the smaller size is very convenient. If you're nervous it won't be enough, and you're willing to invest a bit extra, get a 12 volt brushless. I wouldn't recommend getting 18v drill unless you expect to use it very heavily, or you want to buy into an 18v system for other tools.
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Jan 11, 2016 22:42
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Tools - Battery Powered Toys For Grownups
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Jan 12, 2016 03:23
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The Hitachi stuff is awesome and high quality with the only problem being the skins you can get is not as wide a variety as some other brands, and they have no commonality between 18V and 36V systems. The drill driver kit for $150 or lower is very good value, if you can wait for a sale. http://camelcamelcamel.com/Hitachi-KC18DGL-Lithium-Driver-Impact/product/B00N3W70P0?context=browse
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Jan 12, 2016 03:40
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Looks like the new Dewalt 20V cordless brad/finish nailers are starting to pop up in Canada. I'm pretty excited to ditch the whole compressor hassle every time I need to install a few pieces of trim
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Jan 12, 2016 03:53
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  For content: anyone have a favorite cheap-ish router bit brand? I am not looking to do anything professional but I wanna build a wall mount dresser to shove into my closet.
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Jan 12, 2016 17:15
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deimos posted:For content: anyone have a favorite cheap-ish router bit brand? I am not looking to do anything professional but I wanna build a wall mount dresser to shove into my closet. If you're just looking to get started in assembling a router bit collection, get this set to get you started. They aren't amazing quality, but they're pretty decent, the price is unbeatable, and they have most commonly-used bits.
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Jan 12, 2016 17:19
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What is the name of this type of caliper?
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Jan 15, 2016 07:45
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wormil posted:What is the name of this type of caliper? Inside / Outside caliper
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Jan 15, 2016 07:49
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deimos posted:
Grizzly used to be cheap and good
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Jan 15, 2016 15:44
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peepsalot posted:Inside / Outside caliper Thanks. Simple enough name
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Jan 15, 2016 17:43
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One more, does this type of square have a specific name?
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Jan 17, 2016 06:55
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I have seen a similar square called either an "engineer's square" or "machinist's square", although most of the google results for those terms aren't quite the same.
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Jan 17, 2016 07:03
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I'd say it qualifies as a machinist's square, the notch on the inside corner is one of the defining marks for that. Definitely not the typical design, though. Since it looks like aluminum it could be a custom that somebody made, that'd explain the really large notch, atypical design, and soft material.
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Jan 17, 2016 07:26
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I've been looking casually for awhile and the very few I've found are very expensive. Yeah, neither machinist nor engineer square gets you to that.
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Jan 18, 2016 06:47
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Its a "straight edge square" apparently http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/182-9555178-7058660?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=%22straight+edge+square%22 I actually just ordered this machinist square the other day(not a straight edge style): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W0W3DA Mainly to help square up 3d printer frames I assemble from aluminum extrusion. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 09:49
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peepsalot posted:Its a "straight edge square" apparently You found a nest of them. I see Woodpeckers also make a nice one.
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Jan 19, 2016 04:44
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Thanks to Craigslist and $20, I've now go this sitting in our shop: Bare bones Shopsmith 10ER. Motor runs great, belt is pretty bad but that's no big deal. It came with the original table saw attachment for the headstock, but literally nothing else: no table, tool rest, nothing. I hit the frame tubes with some WD40 and some steel wool and they seem to be cleaning up pretty well, may try some 600 wet-dry I have laying around, see what happens. I am pretty much only looking to get it working as a lathe first, since that seems to be the easiest and I've always wanted one. I found an Ebay seller that has a new head and tail set for $65, and the tool rest is probably another $30. So I can get it running as a lathe for another hundred bucks. I've never really restored a tool before, when I was in 4-H I restored small gas engines and stuff, but that's pretty much it. I'm pretty handy mechanically though so this shouldn't be a big deal. Target Practice fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jan 22, 2016 |
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Jan 22, 2016 18:30
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I really like this saw. http://m.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-13-Amp-10-in-Table-Saw/50081568 Q1: Is it being replaced or has it been by something else? It seems like it's not in stock or in 1 or 2s around my area. Q2: any reason not to buy it: Overpriced piece of junk, delta no longer what it use to be, can get x saw which is same thing for $100 less? It hits about everything that I think is sexy in a saw. 1. Small storage space when not in use (garage is my workshop I'd like to fit cars there) 2. Cast iron work surface, main surface is not sheet metal and seems a decent size 3. T-square fence, don't need to measure each side of the fence. 4. Safe, my current saw is hitting the trash it's missing the guard/rivving knife I used it once and shut it off to never use again. It's my grandfather's 25+ year old Rockwell with stamped wings, and belt driven, its quite long in the tooth. It even has an on off button that I can reach! I'm a weekend woodworker using my garage as my shop so I put my tools in a corner so I can park in there still (old craftsman band saw, router table, sander chop saw etc.) I've only got 120v in the garage with no desire to put in a 220 at this time, I'd really want to wait to upgrade my electrical box first. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 03:08
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Anubis posted:US. Just from the carryover from my wood shop and general tool collection habit I own; a drill press, a few basic pneumatic cutoff tools, high speed grinders, vices, most of your standard clamps, various saws of power and hand varieties, couple metal snips, basic tap sets, files, and I recently started messing about with backyard foundries for bronze and aluminum casting. My main shop addition that I know I'll need (besides the machine itself) is a welders table, so I got a bit of dedicated welding space away from the sawdust. I don't plan on working on anything too large anytime soon, maybe 2-3 foot long max. What you decide to learn depends as much on the kind of projects you're doing as the materials you're planning to use. Are you fixing heavy steel farm equipment? Stick. Are you doing general purpose fabrication and repair? MIG. Are you doing careful, high-precision work in a variety of metals? TIG. Are you doing art? Oxy-acetylene. MIG or flux-core is the easiest to learn, in general -- it works essentially like a glue gun. TIG is clean and precise, tricky to learn to do well, and costs the most to get started with. Stick welding is super cheap and easy to get into, and works very well for heavy duty work, but is a bit of a mess. Oxy-acetylene is not really used any more in production (TIG does a better job in any of those cases) but some sculptors prefer it. I personally own a small Everlast (i.e., not the red or blue brand) air-cooled AC/DC TIG. It's an excellent machine for about $1000 that will do steel and aluminum up to maybe 1/4" thick, and if you need extra speed you can also hook up a stick holder. Whatever you get, remember to add the cost of a decent auto-darkening helmet, gloves and a fireproof apron/jacket if you don't have one, and supplies like wire, electrodes, gas and fittings, scrap metal, etc. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 11:50
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Today I snagged a variable speed Hitachi 5", 13A, grinder off Amazon for $56 to my door, Amazon Warehouse deal. Tell me if I did good. It may actually be more grinder than I'll ever need but at that price I had to buy. /gloat Also I've been posting a few deals like that on another website but I might start posting some here if there is no objection.
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Jan 26, 2016 05:47
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If you get it, and its what you ordered (I've had issues with this on amazon warehouse before), you got a screaming deal. Just don't try to run it on a 15A outlet. By all means, list the deals here, and on garage journal (if that's not where you've been posting).
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Jan 26, 2016 06:12
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sharkytm posted:If you get it, and its what you ordered (I've had issues with this on amazon warehouse before), you got a screaming deal. Just don't try to run it on a 15A outlet. edit; xposted from woodworking If anyone is looking to buy a lathe chuck, Amazon has the Nova G3 for $89. Only 17 left in stock, better hurry! Seriously though, this is a great price. There is also an Amazon Warehouse deal on that page for $83. The description says it will only fit a Nova Comet II lathe but the reviews state otherwise. It is 1x8 thread. I'm tempted to buy a second one at this price. edit2: 8 of those chucks were sold since posting it. I had it in my cart for 2 days prior and none sold. Amazon should give me a cut. wormil fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 26, 2016 06:52
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She's a HOSS! Brand new. Looks like the box had been dropped on one corner, someone opened it to check for damage and taped it back shut. I pretty much stole it.
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Jan 28, 2016 00:53
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Nice grinder. I stole the Makita kit I got today. Brushless impact and drill, plus two 5ah batteries and a charger, marked down to $249, and a $29 cordless drill triggered a $150 discount. gently caress yeah!
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Jan 28, 2016 06:26
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sharkytm posted:... triggered a $150 discount. gently caress yeah!  Teach me, I am your padawan.
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Jan 28, 2016 07:15
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wormil posted:
 Umm, read Garage Journal? http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313832 I was lucky to find one. I know where there's another one, and I'm debating about picking that up today... I really don't need 11 batteries or any more drills or impacts, however. It was $130 out the door, and I could get $13 back for the ryobi screwdriver.
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Jan 28, 2016 14:00
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sharkytm posted:
Yeah I saw that but they were originally getting it for about $230. Your $100 score is by far the cheapest anyone has gotten it. I never can replicate these deals in my local store but I might drive over and try anyway.
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Jan 28, 2016 18:46
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wormil posted:Yeah I saw that but they were originally getting it for about $230. Your $100 score is by far the cheapest anyone has gotten it. I never can replicate these deals in my local store but I might drive over and try anyway. Check the end of that thread. I got informed by another guy North of me by him posting that he had gotten it for $279-$150. If it's not too far out of your way, it's worth a look. If you really want one, I could go back tomorrow and buy the last one that I know about, assuming it's still there.
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Jan 28, 2016 23:20
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sharkytm posted:If you really want one, I could go back tomorrow and buy the last one that I know about, assuming it's still there. Thanks but I don't really need a set. I didn't get over there today, maybe tomorrow. Anyone know anything about these ShopFox brad nailers? Snagged one for 2/3rds off regular price. Kind of an impulse buy but ShopFox is owned by Grizzly, been around a long while, and seems to import good quality stuff.
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Jan 29, 2016 08:04
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wormil posted:Thanks but I don't really need a set. I didn't get over there today, maybe tomorrow. I'll answer because apparently we're in a conversation. It looks identical to the Husky set that I bought back a few years ago for dirt cheap. It works reasonably well, just be careful with the pressure, I've found that it gets inconsistent nail depths if the pressures aren't well controlled. Also, the back air deflector cap is plastic, and fragile.
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Jan 29, 2016 16:45
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wormil posted:Thanks but I don't really need a set. I didn't get over there today, maybe tomorrow. I've got a green one of theirs, probably from the same factory. It wasn't countersinking to my satisfaction, so I took the safety off and grind the nose to an angle a bit to get a good countersink. Soft steel, doesn't take much.
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Jan 29, 2016 17:18
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Thanks guys. I don't really know anything about brad nailers and they come in all range of prices from $20 to $120. Actually I don't own a compressor yet and need to decide what size to buy. The small Senco that is just big enough to run a brad nailer and pump up a car tire is inviting because it's small and so is my shop. But I wouldn't be able to run much else off it.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:15
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All the cool kids buy the Porter-cable pancake.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:23
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Zhentar posted:All the cool kids buy the Porter-cable pancake. Can confirm, I built my workshop with this thing.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:31
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I've got the 6 gallon version and the pressure shutoff switch died after a few years of not-terribly-frequent use. Didn't stop me from buying another refurb one on woot to replace it, though. I can definitely verify that its blow-out safety valve works just fine.
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Jan 29, 2016 20:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Can confirm, I built my workshop with this thing. How much nail gun will it run? After the kitchen remodel I decided my days of hammer swinging on bigger projects has come to an end. Also, on the one with accessories it had this note: quote:promo; no CTC on recon test. Authorized Porter-Cable Seller. Warranty. 30 Day Money Back Guarantee. Anyone know what that means?
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Jan 30, 2016 05:28
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Is this the place to ask about spray painting? If I wanted to paint furniture and possibly car parts what's the minimum I could get away with? Are any of the electric sprayers worthwhile?
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Jan 30, 2016 09:31
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Cakefool posted:Is this the place to ask about spray painting? If I wanted to paint furniture and possibly car parts what's the minimum I could get away with? Are any of the electric sprayers worthwhile? If you're painting larger stuff like houses, I can heartily recommend harbor freight's airless paint sprayer. You could use it for the other stuff, but you'd probably spend more time setting and cleaning up than actually painting. I used mine on a slatted bench that I built right after painting my garage, and it worked really great on that, for what it's worth
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Jan 30, 2016 15:19
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Cakefool posted:Is this the place to ask about spray painting? If I wanted to paint furniture and possibly car parts what's the minimum I could get away with? Are any of the electric sprayers worthwhile? An airless is too much for painting a car. Or furniture. imo. Get a good quality cup gun with a regulator and a dry filter (assuming you've got a decent compressor) Or you might go HVLP, but I know next to nothing about that.
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Jan 30, 2016 15:40
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HVLP is so much better than a compressor and cup gun (which unless you have a monster compressor you need to use LVLP, Grizzly makes a decent cheap one, which I used before I got my HVLP). I got a Fuji 2202 when amazon had a deal on it (I think cyber week) and it's amazing. A cheaper alternative is the Earlex/Graco turbine models. I have read really good things about the Earlex made plastidip turbine (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KXFDCIE/) or from their site. As a cheap HVLP turbine that works (for more than plastidip) I have a friend that uses it solely for wood finishing and has no complaints for the price. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 16:40
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