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The VMA goldish metallics have definite issues between batches, or at least did at one time. I have two bottles of Bright Brass that are way different and neither looks like the darker of yours.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:06
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Indolent Bastard posted:Define ball bearing. 1/4" stainless steel.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:13
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Contrary to Avenging Dentist's advice, I'd use medium to thin it out. I find that in a lot of cases, water doesn't really do the trick and you end up with thin-but-still-chunky paint. Medium should actually dissolve the chunks, though it might take some time and effort.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:21
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I gave up on anything of a gold shade from VMA metallics. It's just not worth dealing with the bullshit. Some real Jekyll and Hyde poo poo going on between them and the silvers.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:27
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head58 posted:1/4" stainless steel. Stainless isn't unstainable, it can still rust. I'd switch to glass beads if you want to keep using them.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:30
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Ilor posted:Contrary to Avenging Dentist's advice, I'd use medium to thin it out. I find that in a lot of cases, water doesn't really do the trick and you end up with thin-but-still-chunky paint. Medium should actually dissolve the chunks, though it might take some time and effort. I guess it'd depend (for me) on if it's gloopy or chunky. Chunky suggests that the binder has started to cure.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:36
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I make agitators whenever I have some green stuff left over. I figure those won't mess with the paint.
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Jan 28, 2016 08:57
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I use hematite beads because they're pretty dense and also don't rust/corrode/dissolve/etc.
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Jan 28, 2016 09:00
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Just bin it and buy new ones.
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Jan 28, 2016 09:29
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JerryLee posted:I gave up on anything of a gold shade from VMA metallics. It's just not worth dealing with the bullshit. Some real Jekyll and Hyde poo poo going on between them and the silvers. This. VMA silvers are the best thing, VMA golds are weird. If you want golds go for the Liquid Metal series. Alcohol based and finicky to apply but sooo good looking.
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Jan 28, 2016 09:33
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TouchToneDialing posted:I know its not technically a miniature but you guys helped a ton with this so I wanted to show you. This is also my first time using my airbrush! This is cool beans. Always wanted to try a repaint of an action figure but never got around to it (and they are pricier down in oz). I got a Star Wars Rey 6 inch that I thought would be a fun project, but then discovered the insane prices she is going for, so I may have to keep her packed up
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Jan 28, 2016 09:55
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head58 posted:1/4" stainless steel. Grab a few of those and dump in a small jar of water overnight. See what happens next day. When I was transferring my paints to dropper bottles I went and bought stainless steel ball bearings at the local bicycle shop ("Of course they don't rust, you cant have that on a bicycle!") After I dumped one in each of my paints I just couldn't rest and left a few of them overnight in some water. Next morning I was greeted by corroded balls in red water. Maybe this is what has been discolouring your paint(s?) as well. This led me to figure out that the most painless method of removing ball bearings from dropper bottles is with a magnet.
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Jan 28, 2016 10:43
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VGA golds seem fine to me.
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Jan 28, 2016 12:47
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So, I have had a bag of Heroquest pieces that I bought at a thrift store in the mid-90s. Some of them have a bad paint job, and a few of them need some repairs, but I'm trying to figure out what I should do with them.
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Jan 28, 2016 13:26
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Wierre posted:Next morning I was greeted by corroded balls in red water. Maybe this is what has been discolouring your paint(s?) as well. The older bottle was that color since day 1 and I only put in the ball bearing when it started to goop up a couple months ago. It's not as dark brown as it looks in my first picture - comes out closer to a gold/brass on the model. The goldish bits on this are using it. But the new bottle is definitely missing pigment or something. 
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Jan 28, 2016 14:16
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I had some spare time last night and set up my airbrush and spray booth to prime my Hadross for Wrath of Kings. I loaded the 24 models up onto a sheet of cardboard to take them into my basement, and, as I walked through the doorway to where I had my stuff set up, the cardboard hit the doorjamb and 24 models went flying in all directions. Models all over the floor, broken off their cork bases, limbs snapped off... I was not a happy fellow. But to the point, get yourself one of those Master Airbrush Spray Booths, because, holy poo poo, it is awesome! It moves a perfect amount of air so you don't have to worry about overspray or inhaling paint. It was well worth the $90 I spent on it - I look forward to airbrushing the hell out of stuff now. Speaking of airbrushing, what are you guys using for cleaning? I had a bit of paint dried in the nozzle, so I removed it and scrubbed it with a nylon gun brush (like a toothbrush.) I'm thinking of picking up a bottle of airbrush cleaner as well - is that unnecessary? I always used water, but if I plan on doing more brushing, I'd like to prolong my brush's life. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 14:56
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I use windex to clean.
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Jan 28, 2016 15:52
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JoshTheStampede posted:I use windex to clean. Yeah, I was just watching a Les Bursley short, and that's what he recommends as well. Does it eat away the paint that dried in the cup during the painting session?
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Jan 28, 2016 16:27
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BlackIronHeart posted:Pinning chat: The mini drill bits I've purchased from this storefront have been super great and are super sharp. I already drilled through an entire shoulder without meaning to do so just using a pin vise, so thumbs up! The fact that you get 6 identical bits for $6 is really nice. I'm looking at this but I'm not seeing the six for six deal.
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Jan 28, 2016 17:24
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If the imps and scum get a similar buff/support ability, I wish the rebels had a good one too. Princess leia was supposed to be that but she's useless. Maybe a cloud city or endor leia?
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Jan 28, 2016 19:37
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Would anyone happen to know the best GW equivalent for Plastic Soldier Companies British Tank Warspray? I got it to speed up the painting of my tanks a little but I can't figure out what GW colour to use for touch ups and such.
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Jan 28, 2016 22:54
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Cooked Auto posted:Would anyone happen to know the best GW equivalent for Plastic Soldier Companies British Tank Warspray? I got it to speed up the painting of my tanks a little but I can't figure out what GW colour to use for touch ups and such. Try a VMC paint? They're going to have a waaay better selection of WWII military colors. 70.924 (Russian Uniform WWII) is supposedly a good match for WWII-era British armor.
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Jan 28, 2016 23:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:Try a VMC paint? They're going to have a waaay better selection of WWII military colors. 70.924 (Russian Uniform WWII) is supposedly a good match for WWII-era British armor. Oh yeah, for a second I thought I had already bought it but I guess not. Will have to do that at some point then.
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Jan 29, 2016 01:19
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yeah, I was just watching a Les Bursley short, and that's what he recommends as well. Does it eat away the paint that dried in the cup during the painting session? Yeah, so long as it's not completely dried and hardened. If it is I'll use isopropyl to clean the cup out. But normally, I'll fill the cup and stir around with a brush to loosen the sides, spray through one or two reservoirs full, then do a back flush and wipe it out.
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Jan 29, 2016 02:34
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I made a Deathstrike because I wanted an inter-continental ballistic missile in my company-level skirmish game.   
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Jan 29, 2016 07:06
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 I picked up this guy on pretty deep discount a while back, and time has come to get him painted for a con in a couple weeks. I wanted to do him as a white/polar bear, and was thinking of basecoating white, light wash of very light blue, and then white highlights over the top. Do you guys think that is the way to go for a polar bearish look?
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Jan 29, 2016 17:18
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Irish Legend posted:
Phone posting so I can't be arsed to post pics, but polar bears actually have a yellowish hue to their fur.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:24
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Irish Legend posted:
Yes it will work quite well. Regarding yellow polar bears; while it is accurate I think it will look bad on this fantasy mount. Blue is the way to go.
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Jan 29, 2016 19:31
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Cthulu Carl posted:Phone posting so I can't be arsed to post pics, but polar bears actually have a yellowish hue to their fur. Fair enough. I was not necessarily going for a realistic look I guess, from and aesthetic standpoint I thought it would look best with the blues undertones.
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Jan 29, 2016 19:42
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Irish Legend posted:Fair enough. I was not necessarily going for a realistic look I guess, from and aesthetic standpoint I thought it would look best with the blues undertones. I think you're right unless you plan to put snow on the ground. If so a warmer white will look good with the presumably colder white of the snow. If not and he's just on some rocks then a colder white for the bear would look fine.
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Jan 29, 2016 21:29
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Polar bear fur is apparently translucent and scatters whatever light is in the environment, so you can make it iridescent and weird if it's supposed to be marching around in torchlight or strong 'magical' lighting environment. When they hang out in damp and temperate areas, algae grows in the hair (which is made of hollow translucent tubes, which is why it's hard to wash it out once it takes, and turns the fur so completely green). The fur starts completely clear after a molt, and then gradually gets contaminated with seal oil and blood from them doing the things that polar bears do to seals. Seems like a polar bear that isn't a vegan swimming in arctic salt water will start to get filthy.
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Jan 29, 2016 22:03
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Alright, so I've started painting miniatures again recently, and I'm still sitting on the basics instead of doing anything fancy... But a Bloodbowl league is starting, and I want to do something cool for my Lizardmen team. I found an awesome paint scheme for them, but I want to do it justice, so I could use some advice.  I was thinking of using a white primer, then doing a solid pink (I hope I can find one neon pink enough) and then doing black overtop of the pink. Still worried about not having smooth enough lines, need to figure out a gloss to make the model shiny enough, and also worried that the black over pink will obscure detail. How would you guys suggest I approach this? *edit* Also, if anybody can suggest a good paint to use for that pink, or a combo to make it, that'd be awesome. I'm probably just going to use a neon pink from vallejo if I can't find anything else. Maybe mix in a dab of some kind of purple. chin up everything sucks fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 22:28
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I'm not sure how well that'll translate to man barbies - Hot pink on black is difficult, painting it in 3D space is super hard. That said, I use GW's 'Ardcoat to gloss up visors and screens, does very well in a single pass.
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Jan 29, 2016 22:33
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Irish Legend posted:
Tsar Boris on Giant Combat Gerbil
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Jan 29, 2016 22:41
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FireSight posted:Alright, so I've started painting miniatures again recently, and I'm still sitting on the basics instead of doing anything fancy... The problem with painting schemes like that on minis is the same problem with painting camoflauge. The entire point of camo (in real life) is to disguise details and outlines and make you hard to clearly see, which is the exact opposite goal you have when painting minis. You can still do it, you just have to sort of think about it and make it look like camo without actually functioning as camo. I don't know how much shading and highlighting you do (you said you were a beginner), but you basically can just do what you said for the basecoat, then treat each section as you would normally, using darker and lighter pinks to shade/highlight the pink areas, and greys to highlight the black.
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Jan 29, 2016 22:48
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Silhouette posted:Tsar Boris on Giant Combat Gerbil Yeah this is definitely a Warham
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Jan 29, 2016 22:57
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FireSight posted:Alright, so I've started painting miniatures again recently, and I'm still sitting on the basics instead of doing anything fancy... What I would do is the following: -Prime White -Lay down blue tack in the pattern you want for the pink. -Black ink wash -Nuln Oil wash -Coat of gloss varnish/future -Remove blue tack -Paint the now revealed white parts with Reaper Clear Magenta, may require a few coats to get the desired depth -Seal with gloss varnish or future -If you can't get the clear magenta or don't want to faff around with learning how to do progressive glazes then you can paint down a thin layer of a medium pink like GW Emperors Children, Reaper Punk Rock Pink or VMC Sunset Red and then highlight with VGC Fluo Magenta. My friend some Tron themed stuff and he said he used Americana Neons for everything but IDK how well that would do in a non-terrain application. Golden also does a high density neon acrylic line but its like ~12 bucks for a 4oz container, if you for some reason can't order stuff online or live in an area with poor access to model supplies you can probably find an art store that will either carry that or be able to order it. I should also note, that in order for the gloss effect to look good, you need to paint everything else that isn't skin to be matte in order to sell the slippery frog skin look.
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Jan 29, 2016 23:32
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Finished up the Wights.     Additionally, I did some Revenant Kings using old Grave Guard models and a Bones model I had kicking around.       I'm reminding myself to get a third light to shine down from above. Two lights really isn't cutting it with this light box. Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 00:08
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Cat Face Joe posted:I'm looking at this but I'm not seeing the six for six deal. Any of the options that show a picture of a single drill bit but say '6pcs' in the product name should be a pack of six. Like this one. Check out the Product Features section.
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Jan 30, 2016 00:41
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Slimnoid posted:Finished up the Wights. Are you just using a sheet or a lightbox? You want the bounced light from the ceiling of the box to be the overhead light.
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Jan 30, 2016 01:22
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