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The Royal Nonesuch posted:"Offroad" is a slippery slope where you start out at the top smiling about a cool dirt fire road and end up wallowing at the bottom thousands of dollars later; jacking off to King of the Hammers videos and gleefully ripping parts off your "mild build" with a sawzall. All that to be said, a 120,000 mile 2.5 for $5000 isn't like a deal you need to jump on so if you really want a jeep get one with the 4.0 and start right. It's slow enough as it is A perfect post
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Jan 23, 2016 03:40
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Yeah, honestly, the 2.5 never hindered me offroad. Onroad, it was a pain in the butt.
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Jan 23, 2016 08:05
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vulturesrow posted:Thanks for the info. I wasnt actively looking to buy one since I just bought a new car but since a family member was selling it I was considering pulling the trigger. They are asking 5k which seems reasonable based on KBB. Would I be able to find a 6 cylinder for the same price? I don't think you'll find a nice 6 cylinder Wrangler around Seattle for $5k. You probably need to bump up to $7-9k to find something that's not someone's ragged project or 20+ years old and in need of a lot of deferred maintenance. I would definitely hold out until you can find a 6 cylinder one though. Going off road in the Cascades, etc. you'll want the extra power for sure. Especially if you're going over the mountain passes at 6k+ feet. The I6 gets dogged down a bit by altitude, but I'd hate to think how much worse the I4 would be. I honestly doubt the I4 could make it across I90 without dropping it down into 2nd gear or so. I sometimes have to put my I6 into 3rd gear (although it does have bigger 31" tires on tall gearing) to get across. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jan 23, 2016 |
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Jan 23, 2016 08:35
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Cat Hatter posted:So how can I tell if my Cherokee could use a new cap & rotor, or should I just replace them since they're the originals from 98? Pop the top off the distributor and take a look. It will probably look burned out and pretty nasty like an old spark plug. It's a pretty easy job to do, especially if you're pulling the spark plugs out at the same time.
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Jan 23, 2016 08:38
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:"Offroad" is a slippery slope where you start out at the top smiling about a cool dirt fire road and end up wallowing at the bottom thousands of dollars later; jacking off to King of the Hammers videos and gleefully ripping parts off your "mild build" with a sawzall. Please stop doxing my confessions to the priest.
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Jan 23, 2016 12:00
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Tested out the 4wd today! I love this truck so loving much
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Jan 23, 2016 22:27
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Good: I went wheeling today!  With a bunch of other people, led by this fine gentleman whose WJ is a bit further built than most.  Less good: Someone blew up their pitman arm and the resulting trek back into town / trail repair just to get it to a towable state took six hours. So, impromptu night run!    Not good at all: The loving WJ is throwing P0174 (bank 2 lean), with a pending P0171 (bank 1 lean). Unlike the last time I dealt with a car with bad O2s, it's not actually running pig rich, and feels much the same as always. Time to chase down a vacuum leak / fuel supply issue.
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Jan 24, 2016 08:20
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^^^ that looks awesome and really is lighting a fire under my butt to get my WJ ready for the next jamboree by me. Sucks about the lean issues. I'd offer knowledge but the 4.7 is a motor I have avoided most of my life. Did you go with the family or by yourself?
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Jan 24, 2016 16:27
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By myself (with a huge group of other Jeeps), which was probably for the better. While they would've loved the trail up to the waterfall, we spent six hours at the waterfall waiting on the broken pitman arm. Case in point, that white WJ on one-ton axles was the first vehicle up the waterfall. The last pic before the air-up photo is the same obstacle  This ended up being my first night run, which was interesting but not bad. The second half of the trail, I can't comment on any scenery since all I could see was a cloud of dust, the road, and the lights of a couple dozen Jeeps. Fog lights actually came in useful  The road was rough as hell, though, so I was white-knuckling the steering wheel just to stay in my drat seat.I forgot to mention (since I was loving exhausted when I posted this) that there was one other WJ there still on stock axles, though with a larger lift. It reminded me that Quadradrive (which we both had) does not take the place of a real set of lockers. He got hung up on the middle line on that obstacle, I needed a bit of rock placement under the tires to get up the easiest (far left) line without too much risk of body damage. I should also probably get some swaybar disconnects finally, a little extra articulation might've gotten me through without it.
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Jan 24, 2016 16:47
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Sounds like so much fun. I have a few suspension parts that are getting worn and are definitely getting upgraded to a beefier part. Also my three inch lift is ordered and being put in before the jamboree as well. My kids love offroading in the jeep already and I cant wait to take them to the jamboree
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Jan 24, 2016 17:29
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Well, that might be one of the quickest diagnostic sessions ever. This shadowy mess of vacuum lines is officially called the "crankcase breather" on the 4.7L WJ:  The elbow going to the passenger head is cracked nearly all the way up, and the plastic T in the middle snapped in two almost immediately. All of the hoses were in such bad shape that they have been seeping some of the condensed oil vapors they're sucking out of each head. Jeep dealer is going to get another order out of me, and I'm going to do the oil change a bit early since this was open during one hell of a dust cloud yesterday.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:52
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Thanks everyone for the feedback on my questions. IOwnCalculus's post has hardened my resolve to get a good off road Jeep though... wife isn't going to be happy. 
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Jan 25, 2016 00:46
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one of us, one of us Also, I'm not having any better luck on these new constant-torque clamps so far. Had to retorque the uppers a few days ago, now the lowers. And on top of it the loving petcock has a super-slow drip. At least the reason why my passenger fog light wasn't lit in that picture (didn't even notice at first) is that I clearly never plugged it in after the last time I had the front bumper off 
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Jan 25, 2016 01:32
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:"Offroad" is a slippery slope where you start out at the top smiling about a cool dirt fire road and end up wallowing at the bottom thousands of dollars later; jacking off to King of the Hammers videos and gleefully ripping parts off your "mild build" with a sawzall.  I was looking at tube fenders the other day and only stopped when I saw they involved sawing through the stock ones. Not sure how long that will stop me though.
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Jan 25, 2016 02:45
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Maybe I'm not doing the Jeep thing right. Just about everyone I see on the internet starts with something practical. They build it up until it can't be streeted anymore then sell it or trade it for something they can drive to work. Thus the cycle continues for all time.
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Jan 25, 2016 03:57
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I re-did the front d30 diff cover gasket this weekend in an effort to fix the leaking - I used a lubelocker gasket. re-doing the front helped, but the majority of fluid is coming from the rear pinion seal under the yoke that connects to the drive shaft. I'm going to replace the seal ASAP - I've seen a couple of videos where people mark the pinion nut's position to the shaft in order to return the nut as close as possible to the original position. What are the odds that I get the nut off, replace the seal, replace the nut and have problems? Another thing I read said to torque the nut to 50lbs, as that won't further crush the crush sleeve, but that sounds like jeeper mythology to me. I tried goobering it up with RTV but I knew that wouldn't work - did it anyway. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 17:41
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'm going to replace the seal ASAP - I've seen a couple of videos where people mark the pinion nut's position to the shaft in order to return the nut as close as possible to the original position. What are the odds that I get the nut off, replace the seal, replace the nut and have problems? Another thing I read said to torque the nut to 50lbs, as that won't further crush the crush sleeve, but that sounds like jeeper mythology to me. I have to do this on my d35 rear pinion seal as well. From what I've read you most likely can get away with just doing the seal and tightening the nut back into its original position with a bit of locktite. It is certainly not the "correct" way to do it which involves a new crush sleeve and I think screwing around with the gears etc. I'm planning on swapping my rear axle out in the future for an 8.8 so if I'm wrong and I destroy something that will just make that happen faster 
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Jan 25, 2016 17:54
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mashed_penguin posted:I have to do this on my d35 rear pinion seal as well. From what I've read you most likely can get away with just doing the seal and tightening the nut back into its original position with a bit of locktite. It is certainly not the "correct" way to do it which involves a new crush sleeve and I think screwing around with the gears etc. I'm planning on swapping my rear axle out in the future for an 8.8 so if I'm wrong and I destroy something that will just make that happen faster That's the same page I'm on - I want to get both axles rebuilt and regeared soon, but the longer I can put it off the better ($$$)
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Jan 25, 2016 17:56
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If you have a high pinion 30, buy a new seal and a new pinion nut, install and torque to original foot pound spec. If you have a low pinion it actually has the crush sleeve they are talking about, so you should torque it to gudentight (gently caress if I know, less than original spec, you don't want to crush the sleeve more basically, but still Tight Enough) and forget about it. Stock gearing on a TJ axle, right? Worst case, slap a high pinion 30 out of an XJ in it. If you have aftermarket gearing, don't listen to me, or at least put a little more care into torquing it correctly.
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Jan 25, 2016 17:57
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kastein posted:If you have a high pinion 30, buy a new seal and a new pinion nut, install and torque to original foot pound spec. Yes - stock 3.73 gearing on my TJ axle. I may get a high pinion before I re-gear, it seems like it might be silly not to if I can find one for a couple hundred bucks. What are the odds I'll NEED a gear puller? Getting the yoke off looks like the tricky part of the job, but hopefully it won't be too bad since it's nicely lubed at this point.
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Jan 25, 2016 18:43
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It's a tight slip fit to loose press fit on the pinion splines but usually slides off if whacked with an orange deadblow mallet a few dozen times. I'd get a high pinion axle for like 150 to 175, all you need is the housing and maybe shafts and knuckles if you want spares. Then regear that one and bolt it in whole. No one likes gearing an axle in the vehicle, it loving sucks.
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Jan 25, 2016 19:25
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Hey guys! I bought an XJ! 1999 with 110,000 miles on it. It's a 4.0 with the Selec-Track transfer case and a 4 speed automatic. It's a PA Jeep so the underbody is pretty rusted, but I put it on a lift before buying it and poked and prodded and stabbed things with a big screwdriver and nothing is rusted through, just bolt heads and annoying poo poo like that. All in all it seems pretty solid. It has a few problems though: I have a bad sag-rear end problem from the springs being worn out, cruise control doesn't work (hell, the little light doesn't even come on) , it makes me shift into neutral to start it sometimes... odd accessory lights burnt out here and there, but otherwise the thing seems ship-shape. I want to upgrade my suspension , I figure that will replace my worn out springs and a lot of the rusted poo poo underneath that's bugging me. I'm going to do those truck-Lite LEDs, and maybe 30inch A/Ts on its loving super sweet factory option alloy spoke wheels. I don't know what I don't know - is there anything I need to check or replace? I did the usual "old car" checklist - u-joints all seem ok, no important poo poo rusted through, good temp, oil pressure sender is bad, but it idles great (and Carfax has the thing being serviced every 3-5K since it was new) so I suspect oil pressure is fine (new sender on the way). No weird noises, no weird vibrations. Anything I forgot? For fun there is a super sweet looking off-road park an hour away in Bridgeport http://www.cityofbridgeport.net/322/Northwest-OHV-Park and I kind of want to drive over and try the machine out in all it's stock glory. My concern is that fully stock it might not do much more than drive around dirt roads - which is fun, but not worth a 2 hour trip and 25 bucks. Also I don't have any off-road friends so if anything goes wrong - something breaks or I manage to go up something I shouldn't (read "get ambitious") and get stuck I am well and truly hosed. Thoughts or suggestions?
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Jan 29, 2016 12:26
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PadreScout posted:
Don't go wheeling by yourself especially if it's your first try. A stock XJ is still a pretty capable vehicle. You may find that ground clearance is an issue but the 4LO makes up for a lot.
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Jan 29, 2016 13:21
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Fully stock XJ can do a lot more than you'd think. Don't try to go rock crawling or anything, but I've never gotten mine stuck and I drive it through some pretty crappy places. I've had water come up over the hood a little bit during creek crossings and poo poo. But yeah it you're inexperienced don't go it alone.
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Jan 30, 2016 01:44
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Senordingdong posted:Fully stock XJ can do a lot more than you'd think. Don't try to go rock crawling or anything, but I've never gotten mine stuck and I drive it through some pretty crappy places. I've had water come up over the hood a little bit during creek crossings and poo poo. But yeah it you're inexperienced don't go it alone. I drove a lot of off-road years and years ago. Back in High-school I drove a FJ-40 for a couple years, then a Scout 800B for a few years after that. Took them lots of places I shouldn't - but I haven't gone off-roading in 15 years, so I think I'll wait until I have some company. I've only owned the Jeep a week and I'm not completely comfortable with its reliability yet. Plus I need to hunt down the gremlin preventing my cruise from working, replace a couple hoses, go find some bulbs to replace in places... I got poo poo to do. Maybe I'll make some nice friends locally that want to go out here later this spring.
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Jan 30, 2016 03:20
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I've been trying to track down a cloud clunk/clatter I get whenever the front suspension compresses - it sounds just like when I forgot to put in my upper shock bushing, except all that's tight and good. One loud CLACK if I hit a single bump/pothole at 15+ , moderate rattling if I'm on a washboarded road. Sound is definitely driver's side. I didn't have any luck finding it today, but in the process of jacking things up/bench-pressing the block/doing frenzied pullups on the front suspension bits I discovered my steering box mount was loose about three turns on all three bolts so I'm glad I found that! Tightened it up and thought that would fix it but the sound is still there. All the damned bushings are original 1988 rubber so who knows...PadreScout posted:Hey guys! I bought an XJ! 1999 with 110,000 miles on it. Good buy, the 1999s are a good year. Dunno what your budget is/what you want to use it for, but if you're replacing sagged-out suspension you might want to buy a complete ~3" lift kit and just do it all. That'll fit 31s easy (you might want some good wheel spacers on the stock backspacing) without cutting bodywork and add a ton of capability to the offroad side of things. The oil pressure sensor is a common failure point and easy to replace - I don't know if the 99s had the option for an idiot light or an actual gauge, but on mine there are two different sensors so you want to make sure you get the right one . I'd suggest draining and filling the transfer case fluid because that's generally neglected on street XJs.
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Jan 30, 2016 03:54
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PadreScout posted:Hey guys! I bought an XJ! 1999 with 110,000 miles on it. It's a 4.0 with the Selec-Track transfer case and a 4 speed automatic. It's a PA Jeep so the underbody is pretty rusted, but I put it on a lift before buying it and poked and prodded and stabbed things with a big screwdriver and nothing is rusted through, just bolt heads and annoying poo poo like that. All in all it seems pretty solid. Check your seat mounts. They rust to gently caress without rusting through the floor pan from the bottom, and the XJ seat frame is a piece of lovely pipe and a couple tack welds. It'll make a huge difference to your comfort and stability if you off road at all.
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Jan 30, 2016 04:11
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PadreScout posted:Hey guys! I bought an XJ! 1999 with 110,000 miles on it. It's a 4.0 with the Selec-Track transfer case and a 4 speed automatic. It's a PA Jeep so the underbody is pretty rusted, but I put it on a lift before buying it and poked and prodded and stabbed things with a big screwdriver and nothing is rusted through, just bolt heads and annoying poo poo like that. All in all it seems pretty solid. As far as the neutral start thing, it could be neutral safety switch. When mine was going I had to jiggle the shifter to start it. Cruise control: does the horn work? If not then it's a possible bad clock spring. You should get cozy with the naxja forums as the wealth of information there is priceless. Pretty much any problem that can crop up on these trucks has happened to someone and is well documented there.
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Jan 30, 2016 07:49
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Well I bought myself a '14 Rubicon and now spend my free time reading jeep forums and compiling parts wish lists and anticipating maintenance problems. I live in an icy, salty hell six months out of the year, does anybody have any tips or thoughts or general advice on undercarriage rust protection?
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Jan 30, 2016 16:02
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I've been trying to track down a cloud clunk/clatter I get whenever the front suspension compresses - it sounds just like when I forgot to put in my upper shock bushing, except all that's tight and good. One loud CLACK if I hit a single bump/pothole at 15+ , moderate rattling if I'm on a washboarded road. Sound is definitely driver's side. I didn't have any luck finding it today, but in the process of jacking things up/bench-pressing the block/doing frenzied pullups on the front suspension bits I discovered my steering box mount was loose about three turns on all three bolts so I'm glad I found that! Tightened it up and thought that would fix it but the sound is still there. All the damned bushings are original 1988 rubber so who knows... Thanks! I'm hoping to do maybe 3 or 4 grand all in. I have been eyeballing that MetalCloak setup (3.5 inch lift), seems real popular but the guys on WranglerTJForum say it's mostly marketing and while being a fine kit, it's not the end-all be-all people are talking it up to be. So I might just go old man emu 2 inch lift off that DPG site(it's about 700 bucks cheaper). They all come with quick disconnects which I don't want/need, but who knows? I'm still new to this. I think a 30 inch A/T is about as big as I can do on my stock wheels, and I love my stock wheels, so I'll probably just lift it enough to clear those and call it good a couple years while I figure out what I /really/ want to do with the thing. I've ben watching a lot of videos on the youtubes and rock crawling doesn't look that great to me ... so I'm thinking just general dirt/mud/sand bounce around, find some rocks and explore kind of ... buffoonery might be right for me. Todays agenda is to go find a Bluetooth enabled stereo receiver for it, I've been driving the last ten years with the ability to tie my phone into my car for calls and music, turns out that's really hard to let go of. EDIT: And done. I had them put in JVC headunit with the Bluetooth, Inifinity speakers, and a little Alpine 10 inch. They also hard wired my dashcam to the the accessory circuit and replaced all the interior lights with some drat bright LEDs. Mission accomplished! PadreScout fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 16:12
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My wrangler's starter (predictably) finally poo poo itself. Now to wait for a replacement to arrive from amazon. I also get to wait for a drag link puller for the Comanche so I can finish replacing the steering link. YAAAYYYY.
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Jan 30, 2016 21:47
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PadreScout posted:Thanks! I'm hoping to do maybe 3 or 4 grand all in. I have been eyeballing that MetalCloak setup (3.5 inch lift), seems real popular but the guys on WranglerTJForum say it's mostly marketing and while being a fine kit, it's not the end-all be-all people are talking it up to be. So I might just go old man emu 2 inch lift off that DPG site(it's about 700 bucks cheaper). They all come with quick disconnects which I don't want/need, but who knows? I'm still new to this. The only scenario where I wouldn't argue for them is if you were just leaving the sway bar off, but I wouldn't do that either.
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Jan 30, 2016 22:28
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How big of a difference does disconnecting the sways make in terms of ride quality off-road? Mostly interested in relation to roads that are rougher than washboard, but not quite hard enough to slow down to crawling speed... at least not for everyone in Wranglers. There was some rough stuff last weekend that was absolutely pitching me every possible direction, so I was white knuckling just to stay in the drat seat.
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Jan 30, 2016 22:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:How big of a difference does disconnecting the sways make in terms of ride quality off-road? Mostly interested in relation to roads that are rougher than washboard, but not quite hard enough to slow down to crawling speed... at least not for everyone in Wranglers. There was some rough stuff last weekend that was absolutely pitching me every possible direction, so I was white knuckling just to stay in the drat seat. It makes a huge difference when going over any kind of whoops or bumpy terrain. I feel like I get beat to poo poo without disconnecting the sway bar.
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Jan 30, 2016 23:19
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Disconnect any time you air down is what I do
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Jan 30, 2016 23:28
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Krakkles posted:Sway bar discos really won't affect you in the street, at all, and they're a huge advantage off-road. I was thinking about going with the Currie AntiRock instead. This guys argument sounds compelling: http://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-does-a-currie-antirock-sway-bar-improve-off-road-performance.197/
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Jan 31, 2016 00:42
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Astonishing Wang posted:Disconnect any time you air down is what I do Yeah, this is what the vast majority of the locals do too. I wasn't sure if it was just for more articulation or if it helped the ride too. Quick disconnects are now next on the list.
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Jan 31, 2016 01:12
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PadreScout posted:I was thinking about going with the Currie AntiRock instead. This guys argument sounds compelling: That guy has some valid points in terms of useful articulation, but on well-setup suspension, an Antirock will absolutely reduce your maximum useful articulation. I'm not saying don't do it, but it sounded like your jeep was going to be street-driven more than off-roaded. If that's the case, save $300 and get better performance on and off road.
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Jan 31, 2016 04:41
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Huh, this seems interesting. Though I suspect I'd still be better off with the relatively uncompromised solution of disconnects instead. Edit: Seems they are also quick disconnects, just with some additional flex built in for when you don't want to disconnect? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 04:49
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PadreScout posted:I was thinking about going with the Currie AntiRock instead. This guys argument sounds compelling: LOL, he copy & pasted my buddy's write-up from 11 years ago and just changed a few details (prices, number of months he's had it, a few words here and there). Some admin; can't even give credit or formulate his own real-world opinion. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/max-flex-vs-useful-flex-anti-rock-132003/
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Jan 31, 2016 06:40
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