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i got the "forge a simple s hook from light stock. nice, ok. mark that hook. now make as many hooks as are needed until you have a set of five that are identical in every way to the first. you have the next two days" task, that was fun
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Jan 29, 2016 22:03
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Off the top of my head, for each station- This is spot on advice. Thank you! I realize the only thing I don't have at my home shop is good bending tools. And rivets; I end up buying machine screws and using those, but is there a better supplier in the US? The Steel Yard's Jewelry class has chasing supplies, including pitch bowls. I may give it a try later this year. Your posts have been inspiring.
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Jan 29, 2016 23:54
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Spaenaur makes all the steel solid rivets I've ever seen in any shop. They're expensive but they're nice to use and are made of really soft steel so you can do a surprising amount of work on them cold, you can get em in round/countersunk/flat low-profile head styles for whatever you need. Smaller rivet hot tip: Lee Valley (and lots of other sources i bet, i just don't know of em) sells solid brass escutcheon pins that make for really good roundhead rivets, you just gotta put em where they need to be and cut them down to size and set the rivet head with a hammer.
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Jan 30, 2016 01:13
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wormil posted:Thanks. I had considered buying a used caliper and sending it in if needed but it doesn't seem cost effective. Digital calipers are actually a lot cheaper to repair from a place like Long Island Indicator Service, don't know how often you see used digital calipers though.
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Jan 30, 2016 02:37
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Digital calipers are actually a lot cheaper to repair from a place like Long Island Indicator Service, don't know how often you see used digital calipers though. I already own a set of digital calipers but wanted a backup dial caliper. Since I don't *need* it, I was looking for an inexpensive way to get a decent quality caliper. I'll just keep my eyes peeled for a bargain deal.
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Jan 30, 2016 05:34
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I did one of the fellas at work this week a scrap note for an 18" section of train track (we had some from an old RGV project) he said he was going to make an anvil out of it. Is this a thing or is he deluded?
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Jan 30, 2016 11:27
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Cakefool posted:I did one of the fellas at work this week a scrap note for an 18" section of train track (we had some from an old RGV project) he said he was going to make an anvil out of it. Is this a thing or is he deluded? Very much a thing. A less than ideal, but completely workable thing. Slung Blade posted:Some people make them from old railroad track. If you do this, mount it vertically so all the mass is under the striking face, like this:
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Jan 30, 2016 13:09
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I have spent some time trying to catch up with this thread. I have responses to things that are from a while ago. Probably not relevant anymore, but maybe it will be useful in the future. First 4140 is an oil quenching steel. Oddly enough, I would expect it crack if you quenched it in water. I would not expect the issue was that it wasn't getting hard enough. Maybe it wasn't past critical when quenched? I don't know. But here is a link with some info on quenching it. http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/heat-treating-4140.php I use 4140 all the time for making tools. Usually tongs, hammers, stakes, that sort of thing. It's a Chrome-Moly alloy. I don't know if that helps with it's hardness, I imagine it makes it stronger. I am sure it will work for tools with a cutting edge too, but I would prefer something with higher carbon or maybe an A or H series steel. To calculate volume in a taper you are going to create an average for the width. Say you are forging from 1/2" square down to 1/8" square over 10". You would caluculate (.5"+.125")/ 2. That gives you an average of .3125". If it is a square taper then you can calculate volume the volume by multiplying .3125 * .3125 * 10. Now you have the volume of .98"^3. If your piece is 1" square it's easy to know how much stock you will need. If it is not then you can calculate the length of material needed to create .98" of volume. So for 1/2" square material you would calculate .5" * .5" * x = .98". so .25x=.98 or 3.92". Of course because of scale you should round up. I allow 10 - 20% more material dependent upon the length of the taper and how many heats I might take to achieve that length. So I would do a test piece at 4.25" and adjust as needed. Volume calculations are your friend, I use them all the time. If you are looking for good cheap rivets try here: http://www.rjleahy.com/store.htm I am not sure how much shipping costs though, I have only bought from them in person. One little image. This is what I am trying to sell for Valentine's Day. I would love to annodize and dye them eventually, but I will stick with the silvery color of aluminum for now. 
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Feb 1, 2016 01:22
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TerminalSaint posted:Very much a thing. A less than ideal, but completely workable thing. Well that explains the tree lump in the back seat of his car.
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Feb 1, 2016 22:34
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Went to princess auto for a 20 ton bottle jack, just a bottle jack for my hydraulic press-to-be!! and came home with my 20 ton bottle jack uhhh plus a 35 ton manual/pneumatic jack i cant actually safely use with the press i'm building But What A Screamin Deal that place is so dangerous to enter flush w cash
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Feb 1, 2016 23:02
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Off the top of my head, for each station- Just catching up to the thread, and I'll add to Ambrose's excellent list that each workstation should have a steel-bristle brush (for scale removal), I see them online called "scratch brushes". Get them with wooden, slightly curved handles (keeps the knuckles off a hot work piece): something like this. Each station should have immediate access to a metal quench bucket. Not necessarily the big quench barrel for quenching large items, but you want a little bucket or something to stick tools into, like punches, within reach of the anvil. I think it's also nice to have quick access to a metal box of vermiculite for annealing, but maybe that's a shared thing. A swage block is also nice but probably too expensive for every work station to have their own? You'll need several post vises, because when all the students are working on the same thing for each class, they'll probably all need them at the same time. Maybe cost-prohibitive for every workstation to have one, but if you can share one vise for every three or four workstations that'd be a good way to go. There needs to be places to stick hot work to cool. You can have racks under your forge, maybe, it depends on how the forge is set up. Wherever you have your tongs, include space for tong rings/clips. Students should be taught how to make their own, of course.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:04
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On that note- it's about time to start building this thing. Mine's gonna be very similar to this- The most difficult part is going to be cutting the holes in the plates. Two 1" plates and one 1 1/4" plate, 8 1" holes and 4 1 5/16" holes will have to be drilled- absolute position of the holes isn't vital as long as they're straight and all properly aligned, so I figure I'll have to drill the holes for each respective corner all at once- or at least drill the possible pilot hole all at once. I have access to a 1 1/2 HP pedestal drill mill, so I don't think I need to shell out to a waterjet place for this. I know an annular cutter is the best and fastest solution, but they're too dang expensive to buy two of for the two hole sizes. I'm pretty sure I can get away with carbide hole saws if I drill the pilot holes all in one shot through 3 1/4" of clamped steel plate, drill a couple smaller "swarf ports" around the inner perimeter of the holes to be drilled, and then do each hole individually with the hole saw, going real slow and being generous with the coolant. Sound sane/doable?
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Feb 1, 2016 23:26
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Leperflesh posted:Just catching up to the thread, and I'll add to Ambrose's excellent list that each workstation should have a steel-bristle brush (for scale removal), I see them online called "scratch brushes". Get them with wooden, slightly curved handles (keeps the knuckles off a hot work piece): something like this. Ooh yeah, these are all good + things I spaced on. I'd add that welders'-style wire brushes are horrid dogshit for firescale, in my experience- they don't have the backbone to remove scale if the metal isn't optimally hot. Students will destroy them super-fast too, because the small bristles A) are easier to damage and B) require a lot of force to work properly. I'd go with the big block brushes with the small number of heavy, flat bristles- like this-  they have a pretty good scouring action and it's easy to bend the bristles back to form with pliers once in a while
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Feb 1, 2016 23:32
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Ambrose - Sure. I have done up to 8 holes through 1" HR steel plate plus a boatload of holes through 1/4" HR steel plate with a single Milwaukee Ice Hardened!!!!!!!!(c)(r)(sm)(tm) holesaw before, in the finest of $160 Ryobi homeowners drill presses, at 540rpm, chattering most of the way through because it was the only way to prevent it from jamming and stalling the pitifully undersized motor. Not many teeth left on the holesaw at this point, but, welp, it was $7 so I bought another one for the next project. Lube or no lube, it seemed like the only difference was how much oil smoke I produced and whether the chips ended up in a sludgy mess on the workpiece, or embedded in my shirt. It sounds like your setup will be about 20 times better than that, so I bet you will be just fine.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:33
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Didn't AvE make a press like that once? But without the jack, just a screw press?
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Feb 2, 2016 17:58
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Geirskogul posted:Didn't AvE make a press like that once? But without the jack, just a screw press? Lil' Screwy 4 pieces if 1" all thread.
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Feb 2, 2016 20:58
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I'm the lady working a hydraulic press without safety maglarses and wearing a high visibility sweater.
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Feb 2, 2016 23:31
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Howdy Howdy, I'm still alive. Hope everyone is doing well. I ended up moving into an apartment last spring and am enjoying my new found freedom from non-motivational bullshit that I've been dealing with the past few years. Not enjoying not having a shop so much, so I decided to fix that and find a place I could rent in my budget. Found a great building about 20 miles from the apt. I just signed the 2 year lease today and picked up the key. I'll be moving in this weekend. Stay tuned to see some progress on the Mill and the finishing touches to the lathe, plus other fun activities. Shop has great security (no windows, can't be seen from the street, and in a safe area), oil heat, 200 amp electrical service, plenty of space for my needs, I can work on a vehicle INSIDE with the door closed, running water, and the best part: A FLAT FLOOR. My old shop could not boast any of these claims.      
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Feb 3, 2016 02:02
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Welcome back man, glad to see you're ok. I want that shop, like really bad.
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Feb 3, 2016 02:04
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I'm trying to find a place to work right now as well. It is very hard to find a studio space that is affordable in a major city. One I did find that is affordable seems to only be open weekdays 9-6, which is exactly when I won't be able to be there.
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Feb 3, 2016 16:12
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What's the rent like?
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Feb 3, 2016 18:03
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Brekelefuw posted:I'm trying to find a place to work right now as well. I'm real lucky my folks live up in York region- I'm clearing poo poo out of their basement right now to put a wee lil dedicated shop in for the mill and press and Production poo poo I'll need space for. i will in fact trade a ~1.5-2 hour bus commute from the city for free dedicated studio space, yep speaking of which i just ordered my mill from soigeneris aaaaaaa 
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Feb 3, 2016 18:37
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sharkytm posted:What's the rent like? I'm paying $500 a month and I buy the heating oil and electricity. No commercial use allowed. Units I were looking at that allow commercial use were anywhere from $800-1400.
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Feb 3, 2016 19:10
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:I'm paying $500 a month and I buy the heating oil and electricity. No commercial use allowed. Units I were looking at that allow commercial use were anywhere from $800-1400. That's not bad at all. I assume the heat isn't going to kill you with cost, with the price of oil in the shitter.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:22
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I had the heating oil company fill the tank up while the price is low. I don't expect to use much this year but it'll be around for next year. That said, even in really cold weather I don't expect to need THAT much heat as the building is well insulated and I only need enough heat to take the edge off and keep the pipes from freezing. I don't plan on walking around my shop naked.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:31
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:I had the heating oil company fill the tank up while the price is low. I don't expect to use much this year but it'll be around for next year. That said, even in really cold weather I don't expect to need THAT much heat as the building is well insulated and I only need enough heat to take the edge off and keep the pipes from freezing. I don't plan on walking around my shop naked. You're missing out.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:45
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if you haven't plied your trade in a leather apron and steeltoes and nothing but i dont even want to talk to you
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Feb 3, 2016 20:47
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Well, and safety glasses. Let's not go too far.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'm real lucky my folks live up in York region- I'm clearing poo poo out of their basement right now to put a wee lil dedicated shop in for the mill and press and Production poo poo I'll need space for. i will in fact trade a ~1.5-2 hour bus commute from the city for free dedicated studio space, yep My parents are in Cambridge. That would mean I would have to work only on weekends. It has crossed my mind a number of times though, especially if I found a sweet big lathe.
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Feb 3, 2016 23:18
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Slung Blade posted:Well, and safety glasses. Let's not go too far. Of course you all wear hearing protection for anything over 85 decibels, right? (Not a chance, blowing shop air is like 87-90 dB in an enclosed space lol)
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Feb 3, 2016 23:38
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I do wear ear protection when I silversmith, and when I use my air compressor.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:41
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Thank you for linking AvE. It is useful to study him. Speaking of Youtube videos, I have found this channel to be useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcKn6N0SHV0 This person solicits ideas from the internet and incorporates them into his build processes. It is useful to study him.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:29
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I'm considering tackling a cylcone build (bill pentz) given how much effort I've put into this DC system already I might as well not scrimp on the separator. ideally i'd make it from 22ga sheet metal but I'm not sure I can handle soldering that he recommends. I don't know what he uses, and the terms are confusing and mean little to me in another continent I have a stick welder and I've read of this method where you make an improvised spot weld by drilling a hole in one of the sheets and clamping them together, then a quick tack with the electrode in the hole and you got a kinda spotweld. Sound doable with sheet metal this thin? I think TIG welding would be really good here too, but I don't have that (my stick welder has an expansion slot for a TIG module however). My dad has a MIG though.
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Feb 4, 2016 12:35
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Watching SV Seeker makes me want to live the dream I never got to experience working at the shipyard and build me a 25 foot steel boat in my spare time.
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Feb 4, 2016 13:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm considering tackling a cylcone build (bill pentz) given how much effort I've put into this DC system already I might as well not scrimp on the separator. ideally i'd make it from 22ga sheet metal but I'm not sure I can handle soldering that he recommends. I don't know what he uses, and the terms are confusing and mean little to me in another continent If you're trying to collect fine dust (as you seem to be), spot welds won't be sufficient to create a vessel that will actually hold anything. Stick is basically the worst possible welding method for thin sheet and I've seen people ruin things trying to make it work before. MIG is more workable but still not stellar ime. TIG, oxy-acetylene or- yeah- soldering/brazing really is what you want for this kind of thing, I think.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:41
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A torch would have too way too much heat on thin material. You want to do to MIG or TIG for this project. Since you are doing steel, you could always buy an air cooled TIG torch and use your stick welder and do scratch start TIG. You of course would not have a foot pedal so you may have to stop and turn the heat down every so often as the piece heats up.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:45
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:A torch would have too way too much heat on thin material. ? If he's not using galvy, what's it matter? Do you mean in terms of warping/distortion?
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Feb 4, 2016 17:05
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Yes warping and distortion. Oh another tip, a copper backstop may be useful while welding the thin metal too.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:07
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Ambrose Burnside posted:If you're trying to collect fine dust (as you seem to be), spot welds won't be sufficient to create a vessel that will actually hold anything. Stick is basically the worst possible welding method for thin sheet and I've seen people ruin things trying to make it work before. MIG is more workable but still not stellar ime. TIG, oxy-acetylene or- yeah- soldering/brazing really is what you want for this kind of thing, I think. I just need the welds to keep it together, sealing is done with caulking. Holes & pop rivets could also work
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Feb 4, 2016 18:28
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If you aren't used to welding sheet metal, pop rivets will be orders of magnitude easier. Go with that.
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Feb 4, 2016 18:41
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