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Its an sv650, a v twin. Just asking because filled up today and my mpg was a little over 30. Just curious if it's because I've been sitting around 5000 rpm or if I need to look at other things. Did motivate me to change out my spark plugs and air filter though
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Jan 29, 2016 04:04
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| # ? May 16, 2024 10:37 |
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What year? That's pretty low MPG for an SV if you're just commuting or riding on the highway. E: You can get anywhere from 20-55/60mpg on that bike depending on how spirited you are with the throttle.
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Jan 29, 2016 06:00
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2004. Probably 70% city miles
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Jan 29, 2016 07:38
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Pikey posted:Its an sv650, a v twin. Just asking because filled up today and my mpg was a little over 30. Just curious if it's because I've been sitting around 5000 rpm or if I need to look at other things. Did motivate me to change out my spark plugs and air filter though You could probably go lower but experience with my SV leads me to believe that under 3,000 or thereabouts the engine gets uncomfortably rough and choppy in the upper gears. Other from that the engine doesn't give a gently caress what you do rev-wise but lower revs = better economy IIRC.
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Jan 29, 2016 07:51
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Mind that if you're in stop start traffic you can probably futz around as low as 2-3k rpm in first/second if all you're doing is a hundred yards or so at a time below 20mph. In an actual jam you can get away with popping barely above idle to shuffle forwards a few feet, slipping the clutch to smooth out the choppiness. Sure you're probably making nearly no power, but you don't need any power to go at walking pace. Topic leads on to something I've been meaning to ask, is there a reason it seems like V2 engines are generally less efficient than P2? Is it just that it's a format that enables better power and/or torque production and so they're typically set up to maximise that over efficiency, or is there something else that makes them inherently more thirsty? Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 08:06
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Twice the number of cams and associated timing gear leading to more internal losses maybe? But v-twins are usually gruntier than p-twins for the same displacement so it's probably that. Or a bunch of poo poo all together.
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Jan 29, 2016 11:26
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I'd hazard that parallel twins these days are mostly found in smaller, more commutery bikes, while V-twins are primarily in cruisers and sport bikes, where people are less interested than fuel efficiency than in noise and power. A V-twin and a parallel twin of identical displacement and compression ratio, making the same power, would probably get similar mileage.
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Jan 29, 2016 12:01
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Marxalot posted:We'd have to know what bike. Twin, single, i4, v4, parallel twin, weird rear end BMW boxer engine, etc. Generally if you're cruising at <3/4 of your maximum rpm then you're fine. Plenty of bikes are happy to sit at a higher percentage than that without breaking, some aren't I'd like to know a: how the bike tells you it isn't cool with your treatment (if it does at all) and b: what the consequences are (getting way too hot, engine damage, etc.) All the bikes I've ridden except a '79 CM400T gave the same mileage no matter how I rode it. Maybe a 5-10% variance between hot rodding it and being calm w/ the throttle. CaptainSarcastic posted:The Register Guard is still surprisingly decent, but considering it is local to Eugene/Springfield it doesn't surprise me that Portland wouldn't read it. I feel the Register Guard's conservative bias is more transparent than most. Of course, that can be good or bad depending on how you look at it. Verge fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 16:06
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Hey Pikey you'll figure it out. Cruise where the bike is comfortable cruising. You'll find a sweet balance between smooth cruising and enough power to move. I rode a SV650 and if I recall it seemed to like being around 6k. My Ulysses likes cruising at 3000 but I try to keep it up around 4 for the sake of moving the oil through the cooler and fuel economy (yeah yeah don't ask me I just ride it and buy the gas).
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Jan 29, 2016 17:22
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"Fuel economy is for vegetarians." -That Australian Dude on Youtube
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Jan 29, 2016 19:37
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I've managed to get the drz into the mid 30s for fuel economy. as for revs. don't worry about it. ride it. if it doesnt wanna move, go down a gear and give it some love. Moto engines are pretty overbuilt and don't give a poo poo if you wind the piss out of them. You'll get a hang of the powerband.
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Jan 29, 2016 19:48
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Verge posted:All the bikes I've ridden except a '79 CM400T gave the same mileage no matter how I rode it. Maybe a 5-10% variance between hot rodding it and being calm w/ the throttle.  gets like double the mpg between highway cruising and hammering.
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Jan 29, 2016 20:18
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The Ninja 650 cruises a little over 6k when doing 120km/h in 6th, so I usually ride around that in lower gears as well. I get about 5.5L/100km (43mpg)
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Jan 29, 2016 20:42
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I'm going to John Kerry and flip flop back to a naked bike. I've decided I want a round headlight opposed to the transformer. Do I go with a bullet style or "classic" headlight? Thinking of going for a 7". 5 3/4 seems too small.
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Jan 29, 2016 20:50
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Pope Mobile posted:I'm going to John Kerry and flip flop back to a naked bike. I've decided I want a round headlight opposed to the transformer. Round headlight best headlight. 7" is a pleasing size.
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Jan 29, 2016 20:58
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I was thinking this headlight. Pretty sure it's the same look as the SV650N . E: and for an emgo, the reviews are surprisingly positive.
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Jan 29, 2016 21:09
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Pope Mobile posted:I was thinking this headlight. Pretty sure it's the same look as the SV650N . I've got a very similar one on my XJ600. With a good bulb, it's puts out a good bit of light. The reflector is biased a bit to the right, which is nice. For a plastic housing, it's surprisingly beefy. I've put a few thousand miles on mine, some on lovely dirt roads, and no cracks or anything. I did have to silicone the ring after a couple thousand, because it developed an embarassingly loud buzz at about 2500 - 4000 rpm. Stock 919 or 599 headlights are about the same thing but much nicer construction, but pricey. edit: Also, 7" is kind of a standard size IIRC, so if you ever slap on an aftermarket flyscreen, it'll probably fit.
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Jan 29, 2016 21:15
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:7" is a pleasing size. Hur hur
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Jan 29, 2016 21:18
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Renaissance Robot posted:Hur hur  This is the one I have. Not available in the US anymore, it seems.
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Jan 29, 2016 21:19
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Going with the emgo. Taking advantage of cost +10% while I still can.
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Jan 29, 2016 21:26
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cursedshitbox posted:I've managed to get the drz into the mid 30s for fuel economy. RC51 does 7 on the track.
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Jan 30, 2016 06:22
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Round headlight best headlight. 7" is a pleasing size. Says you. P happy with my 9".  Z3n posted:RC51 does 7 on the track. Things I aspire to. 
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Jan 30, 2016 06:36
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cursedshitbox posted:Says you. P happy with my 9". Maybe you enjoy it, but it's a bit big for everyone else.
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Jan 30, 2016 13:52
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PENIS JOKE! That headlight is awesome though.
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Jan 30, 2016 17:02
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Back to the fuel economy thing, over the first 8600km on my FZ07 and riding the poo poo out of it, the computer says the lifetime average is 4.6L/100km, or about 51 US MPG.
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Jan 30, 2016 18:30
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I'm trying to swap handlebars on my sv650. Currently there's aftermarket one on it with heated grips that were installed by a dealer and the clutch side grip seems to be pretty stuck on there. Is there a way to get it off without cutting it or ruining the heating element? I was otherwise thinking of just leaving them on the old bars and buying new grips but it looks like the clutch assembly has to slide off. Basically is it worth messing with a glued grip or is it stuck on there?
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Jan 30, 2016 19:40
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Being able to remove it kinda depends on what the dealer used to put it on but my suggestion is just to cut it off because generally its not worth the hassle, especially if you are okay with replacing them with 10 dollar grips.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:45
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Best way of both removing and installing grips: first, use a heat gun to get the rubber stretchy and flexible. Then take a compressed air hose with a narrow fitting on the end, stick it under the grip wherever you can, and pulse air inside while pushing the grip off. The burst of air swells the grip temporarily and loosens it up so it pops right off. It's magic. If you don't have compressed air, you can just use the heat gun and once the rubber's stretchy enough, just twist and push and roll it off. A hair dryer may work if you spend long enough.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:52
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Or if your hairdryer is 2kW  (bought my current one like a decade ago before anyone started talking about power limits/bans, it's great for heatshrink tubing when I do electronics, and I point it at my head every morning  )
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Jan 30, 2016 20:04
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Well they turned out not to be glued. I think accidentally turning on the heated grips helped loosen them. I think my only concern now is making sure no cables are too tight at full lock. Looks nice though! 
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Jan 30, 2016 23:17
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Nice clutch lever there.
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Jan 30, 2016 23:28
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Pope Mobile posted:Nice clutch lever there. Poor man's insulation
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Jan 30, 2016 23:38
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Do we have a general maintenance thread for new bikers? I just got a FZ6R and I'll need to do an oil change soon enough, which looks easy enough. I'm curious about what other things I have to do to maintain my motorcycle and keep it in good condition.
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Feb 1, 2016 00:12
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Changing the oil on a bike is pretty much the same as on a car. Run the engine for a bit to get the oil warm, drain the old oil, replace the oil plug washer, replace the oil filter, add new oil according to the manual, run the engine for a little bit, check the level, top up if necessary, done. Use whatever 10W40 is cheapest which doesn't have friction modifiers. Video instruction (basically the same for any bike): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft1IkFZkJts Pour the leftover fresh oil into an oil can and use it to lube the chain every other week. When the chain looks too dirty (or every couple of months) wash it with kerosene and a stiff plastic brush. After the kerosene has evaporated, lube it again. Check your tire pressure every now and then. Riding at too low pressure makes the bike squirrelly and is bad for the tires. Also check your wheel, swing arm and steering head bearings every couple of months. Apart from that, follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. If you're new to wrenching, let a shop handle the tricky bits like valve adjustments.
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Feb 1, 2016 00:41
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Collateral Damage posted:Use whatever 10W40 is cheapest which doesn't have friction modifiers. EDIT: Never mind me, I completely read your statement wrong. Continue on! OMGMYSPLEEN fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 00:59
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Wokrider posted:Do we have a general maintenance thread for new bikers? If the 6R is anything like my 6, you just have 2 bolts to remove on the bottom and the side. Replace the oil filter with one of those amazing K&N ones that have a nut on the end.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:08
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Collateral Damage posted:Changing the oil on a bike is pretty much the same as on a car. KTM owner here. Obviously Collateral Damage isn't talking all bikes. Let me tell you about my four filters and official Blood of Christ lubricant now for the low low price of one kidney per bottle.  FZ6R should be a snap though, yeah.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:16
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Do you have to remove the lower fairings for the change on a FZ6R? If so, that'll be the most annoying part. Along witch lubing the chain, make sure to check the tension. Make sure to check your owner's manual for maintenance intervals. It's usually near the back. If you don't have one go here: http://www.yamahapubs.com/ to pick it up. Keep an eye on the bike's mileage and check back on the manual every 5,000 miles or so. I completely missed checking the bearings on my wheels for about 15,000 miles past due. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 04:35
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Pope Mobile posted:Do you have to remove the lower fairings for the change on a FZ6R? If so, that'll be the most annoying part. Aren't bearing checks just a "Does this thing roll freely?" thing? You should probably do that every time you get the tires changed. Assuming you're saving yourself ~$75/tire change by taking the wheels into a shop.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:52
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Marxalot posted:Aren't bearing checks just a "Does this thing roll freely?" thing? You should probably do that every time you get the tires changed. And I completely forgot the chain tension, which you should check every time you lube it. Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 09:53
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