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Requesting a recommendation for a file or something that won't gently caress up plastic that I can use to remove marks from sprue removal on already-assembled space dwarfs because I'm an impatient poo poo In trade here's my recommendation for a travel-ready palette. It's silicone so when the paint dries you can just peel the paint off and you're ready to go, no soaking in Simple Green to clean your palette http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0146ALW6A signalnoise fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 14:47
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Strangely my lovely camera phone is taking better pictures than my "proper" camera. Here's a better shot of the infinity stuff I've been painting along with a bonus Oznat I'm painting (need to finish her hair).  Unfortunately the primer went on her a bit too thick so a lot of the ridge detail was blocked on the legs, feet and head, so I just faked the textures
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Feb 3, 2016 16:14
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BlackIronHeart posted:I've been using something like this for about 20 years. Gonna try this with the bits you recommended. Thanks.
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Feb 3, 2016 16:19
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These look really nice. What are you going to do for the bases?
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Feb 3, 2016 16:43
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signalnoise posted:Requesting a recommendation for a file or something that won't gently caress up plastic that I can use to remove marks from sprue removal on already-assembled space dwarfs because I'm an impatient poo poo I just use a normal diamond file then smooth it down with a mould line remover or xacto knife. If it's particularly stubborn I thrown in some > 1000 grit sandpaper between those steps.
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Feb 3, 2016 18:42
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I've been painting up some lizards for my Frostgrave team, here's my current progress:  I need to buy a box of skinks in order to finish my frostgrave team and suggestions for how to do the topper of the leftmost skink priest's stick are much welcome!
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Feb 3, 2016 19:28
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signalnoise posted:Requesting a recommendation for a file or something that won't gently caress up plastic that I can use to remove marks from sprue removal on already-assembled space dwarfs because I'm an impatient poo poo I've been using these on resin and plastic for years: Nicholson Miniature Files https://www.grainger.com/product/NICHOLSON-Miniature-Hobby-File-Set-1F882 Make sure you get the 'American' ones and not these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_96702-273-42030L_0__?productId=1210143 The former are domestic market products of high quality, the latter are pieces of crap you can get for $15 at Lowes (they aren't as fine and will leave rough marks).
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Feb 3, 2016 22:27
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signalnoise posted:Requesting a recommendation for a file or something that won't gently caress up plastic that I can use to remove marks from sprue removal on already-assembled space dwarfs because I'm an impatient poo poo Thanks to this thread, I use Grobet (aka Vallorbe) files, which I get here: https://contenti.com/metal-files/needle-files/grobet-needle-files I haven't tried them on plastic, but they come highly recommended from a wooden ship builder here, so I'm sure they'd do just fine.
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Feb 3, 2016 22:44
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ooh, file chat again! I've been meaning to add some good ones to my set of tools, from a quick ebay search it looks like Grobet is easily found in the US and Vallorbe is easily found outside the US (at least, in UK/Europe). Have added a set to my wishlist. actually the Nicholson Miniature File set is nice, comes in a nice looking set. The ebay listing is funny, it says: 'Nicholson files are expensive and they are not for everyone, these are not like sets of files you buy from a market stall or from a DIY shop and they last 5 minutes. Nicholson files are the best quality files that money can buy and you only get what you pay, but if you are reading this listing, you were not put off by the price and I think you already know how good they are, because they don't come any better this.' krushgroove fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 23:12
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BULBASAUR posted:-snip- Could you give a little more description on what marks you notice? I've been using these for years and haven't noticed anything to un-recommend them... aside from their habit of soaking up every tiny piece of dust they scrape off. Genuine curiosity, not "you're wrong i kill you blah blah."
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Feb 3, 2016 23:47
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I had an idea last night, mainly because I found out I could use my employer to order and save on shipping (plus get a discount), but I'm now strongly considering buying a case and foam through McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6589a25/=10z6y1o http://www.mcmaster.com/#3157t22/=10z6zxo http://www.mcmaster.com/#8643k518/=10z70nh
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Feb 4, 2016 13:40
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Iron Crowned posted:I had an idea last night, mainly because I found out I could use my employer to order and save on shipping (plus get a discount), but I'm now strongly considering buying a case and foam through McMaster-Carr: I'm pretty sure you can get pistol cases nearly that size for a lot cheaper.
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Feb 4, 2016 13:51
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'm pretty sure you can get pistol cases nearly that size for a lot cheaper. Not bad, plus I can look like a true American without actually owning a gun  Although on the other-hand, if I'm ever broken into, someone is going to make off with 200 points of Menoth 
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Feb 4, 2016 14:03
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Pistol cases are tempting but kind of a bad idea for multiple reasons - they attract a lot of attention (imagine how you look tromping down to your FLGS with a pistol case under each arm) and make your collection of tiny mans look something very much worth busting into your car for, among other things.
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Feb 4, 2016 14:06
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Drake_263 posted:Pistol cases are tempting but kind of a bad idea for multiple reasons - they attract a lot of attention (imagine how you look tromping down to your FLGS with a pistol case under each arm) and make your collection of tiny mans look something very much worth busting into your car for, among other things. But imagine the sheer look of disappointment they'd have once they opened it and found a bunch of intricately painted army mans!
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Feb 4, 2016 14:08
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Iron Crowned posted:But imagine the sheer look of disappointment they'd have once they opened it and found a bunch of intricately painted army mans! You're still out said bunch of intricately painted army mans. Not like they're going to ebay that poo poo.
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Feb 4, 2016 14:10
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Drake_263 posted:You're still out said bunch of intricately painted army mans. Not like they're going to ebay that poo poo. Yeah, I know, number one reason I don't own a gun: It's automatically the most valuable thing I own. Currently my PS4 is the most valuable thing I own, and probably the only thing that would have a net benefit on a risk vs. reward system.
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Feb 4, 2016 14:20
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Avenging Dentist posted:Thanks to this thread, I use Grobet (aka Vallorbe) files, which I get here: https://contenti.com/metal-files/needle-files/grobet-needle-files I got these on recommendation of the thread as well and they are well worth the price
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Feb 4, 2016 14:22
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Drake_263 posted:Pistol cases are tempting but kind of a bad idea for multiple reasons - they attract a lot of attention (imagine how you look tromping down to your FLGS with a pistol case under each arm) and make your collection of tiny mans look something very much worth busting into your car for, among other things.
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Feb 4, 2016 14:46
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berzerkmonkey posted:Any hard case is going to make you a target - they tend to be associated with expensive items and are the most likely to me stolen. so, the solution is a cardboard box, nothing good comes in cardboard boxes
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Feb 4, 2016 14:50
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Iron Crowned posted:so, the solution is a cardboard box, nothing good comes in cardboard boxes That's what I did, I got Gameplus foam which is 13x7.5, then I got cardboard boxes with internal dimensions of 13x15 and a bag to carry whatever I'm using that day.
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Feb 4, 2016 14:54
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Iron Crowned posted:so, the solution is a cardboard box, nothing good comes in cardboard boxes You got it! To be honest, any bag you leave in your car is going to be a target - a hard case will likely be misconstrued as photo equipment or a gun, while a dedicated game bag will be mistaken as luggage or taken for what it truly is (though gamers, being a smaller demographic, are less likely to bust out a window to steal miniatures.) On the other hand, I have heard of unlocked car doors being opened and mini bags walking off, as well as bags being set down at a store or con, then disappearing. So, any way you think about it, you're putting a lot of investment into a convenient to steal case.
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Feb 4, 2016 15:06
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berzerkmonkey posted:Any hard case is going to make you a target - they tend to be associated with expensive items and are the most likely to me stolen. Very true. Gun cases will just add that one last touch of 'the cops wll loving love you' to it.
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Feb 4, 2016 15:08
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berzerkmonkey posted:You got it! To be honest, any bag you leave in your car is going to be a target - a hard case will likely be misconstrued as photo equipment or a gun, while a dedicated game bag will be mistaken as luggage or taken for what it truly is (though gamers, being a smaller demographic, are less likely to bust out a window to steal miniatures.) On the other hand, I have heard of unlocked car doors being opened and mini bags walking off, as well as bags being set down at a store or con, then disappearing. So, any way you think about it, you're putting a lot of investment into a convenient to steal case. yeah, I just want a decent place to store/transport my little mans that's a step up from using a Kroger shopping bag 
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Feb 4, 2016 15:13
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Are we doing storage chat now Can I weird out about it??? I have so much knowledge to give
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Feb 4, 2016 15:17
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How can I improve these plasma guns? These are the first models I've done in 15 years or so, obviously there are things I need to work on with neatness (I actually made an attempt at the rivets, these don't look so good compared to the other 7 marines I did) etc. I got lazy and one did one coat of green. Everything is still WIP and full disclosure, they're for a seven year old. Anyway, I used to coats of guilliman blue glaze over leadbelcher on the coils. Luckily, now that I've done it, I see that others have done it as well so it wasn't a crazy idea after all, but I was thinking about drybrushing the coils with etherium blue/praxeti white. Dunno which, maybe both. I still have to go back over the end where i let the glaze run into the crevices. Sorry for the lovely photos, I took it at 11:30 under lovely lighting. 
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Feb 4, 2016 15:34
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shoplifter posted:How can I improve these plasma guns? These are the first models I've done in 15 years or so, obviously there are things I need to work on with neatness (I actually made an attempt at the rivets, these don't look so good compared to the other 7 marines I did) etc. I got lazy and one did one coat of green. Everything is still WIP and full disclosure, they're for a seven year old. Not sure about the guns, buy the green would look stellar with a quick black or dark green wash on it.
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Feb 4, 2016 15:53
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signalnoise posted:Are we doing storage chat now I believe there is precedent for a storage derail.
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Feb 4, 2016 15:54
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w00tmonger posted:Not sure about the guns, buy the green would look stellar with a quick black or dark green wash on it. I was thinking about that as well, I'm torn on saying '  I have 60 other models to paint' and going back to do it once everything is done or just doing it now. I hope my kid eventually appreciates the fact that I'm spending way too much time on this, it was probably worth it to see his reaction to them this morning.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:01
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shoplifter posted:I was thinking about that as well, I'm torn on saying ' the poor kid will have finished college by the time you get 500 points done.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:03
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w00tmonger posted:Not sure about the guns, buy the green would look stellar with a quick black or dark green wash on it. I'd do a brown wash over everything that isn't blue, then repaint inside the flat areas with the base colour's, it'll make the transition between the red and the green nice and subtle and add shading to the green. These are from a few years ago, but I think it was: Black Primer Couple of thin coats of GW's older base colours (Caliban Green?) red (Mephiston Red?). Heavy wash of Agrax brown wash. Couple of highlights of the base colour mixed with a bone colour (VMC Pale Sand probably knowing me for both the green and red).  I don't know what happened to those models (probably crushed under a box in the garage) otherwise I'd take a side shot of the plasma cannon guy that I cropped out of the image.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:08
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Iron Crowned posted:the poor kid will have finished college by the time you get 500 points done. Eh, four hours for ten models is fine by me but that's why I'm waffling on washing them right now. I'll probably have 6 hours in these by the time they're 'done enough' for me. I expect that I'll be able to cut an hour or so off the next unit of ten since I won't be fumbling through everything. I've bought a few units off of ebay that are already painted (and reasonably enough that I don't have to strip them for repainting immediately) so we should have about 1000 points by the end of the month if I can carve out time to paint.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:12
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 I love your painting, richyp.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:52
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signalnoise posted:Are we doing storage chat now Go for it. I'm probably gonna buy some mini cases soon. (Probably Feldherr.)
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Feb 4, 2016 19:44
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Me and my friends need cases real bad for our infinity squads. Every time we take them somewhere someone inevitably loses an arm.
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Feb 4, 2016 20:01
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Cat Face Joe posted:Me and my friends need cases real bad for our infinity squads. Every time we take them somewhere someone inevitably loses an arm. Must make dice rolling tricky after a few trips. Question for paint enthusiasts. What's the go to brand been for the last few years? Most of my old VMC paints are running out/drying up, and are nearly all greys and greens (I bought a huge military set about 8-9 years ago) A few years ago people were raving about PP's stuff, but looking around I'm seeing a lot of mention of Scale 75 stuff. Should I stick with Vallejo Model Color, go for something new, or suck it up and learn to airbrush like all the cool kids? vvv I tried it a few years ago, still have the compressor kicking around somewhere. After hours of not getting any paint to come out (just air) and getting frustrated I gave up. Think I ended up clogging the brush up and ruining the needle in the process) richyp fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 20:25
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You and an airbrush would be MP thread porn, IMO. /\/\/\ Oh? Sounds like you might have had a model with the 2-part switch that adjusts flow and air separately and didn't know to depress the switch as well as pull back on it to get flow? Even regular acrylic should come out, even if you don't water it down, just in uneven spurts. If you bent the pin it's not the end of the world. You can get a replacement. I've never seen an airbrush that doesn't basically fit together like a ball-point-pen. Unscrew, put in a new pin, and try again. Remember. Anonymous nerds are counting on you to fill their frustrating working days while they try to figure out why Tshell won't connect to a VM so they can uninstall the app package that they're trying to debug. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 20:28
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richyp posted:Must make dice rolling tricky after a few trips. I have the entire PP line at the moment, plus VMC for metallic. I dig them, except for the browns, those fuckers never seem to work the way I want them to, and Gnarls Green likes to defy gravity.
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Feb 4, 2016 20:29
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richyp posted:Question for paint enthusiasts. What's the go to brand been for the last few years? Most of my old VMC paints are running out/drying up, and are nearly all greys and greens (I bought a huge military set about 8-9 years ago) I made a post that will hopefully help you to find good paints from a variety of ranges: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 As I say every time I link that, if you have suggestions for stuff that should be on the list, let me know. Basically, the criteria is, "Do you think this paint stands out above the rest?"
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Feb 4, 2016 20:30
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Iron Crowned posted:I have the entire PP line at the moment, plus VMC for metallic. I dig them, except for the browns, those fuckers never seem to work the way I want them to, and Gnarls Green likes to defy gravity. Are they matte like VMC or slightly glossier like GW's stuff, also interesting that you like VMC metallic paints it's the one thing I actually prefer GW's version of. Avenging Dentist posted:I made a post that will hopefully help you to find good paints from a variety of ranges: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 Awesome, thanks for the list. Scanning it briefly I'm noticing a lack of my go to colour for practically everything, good old VMC 70837 (Pale Sand). Watered down I use it for highlighting skin, mixing with red or green for a lighter highlight version, eyes, teeth etc... It's lighter than Iraqi sand and a tiny bit more yellow than bleached bone. Mixed with orange it makes a decent base for skin too (after a brown wash). In fact I can't think of a model that I've done that hasn't used it somewhere or another since I bought it. Another less used product but one I still use a lot for shading grey/metallic or dark grey for a nice black effect is GW's Blue Wash (Drakenhof Nightshade I think it is). If I'm painting a cold white I'll quite often pre-wash a white primed mini with it then build the white back up. It also works well as a shade for green/ork skin too instead of an actual green wash. EDIT: Just found a white primed model kicking around to demo the awesomeness of pale sand. richyp fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 20:39
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