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Rythe posted:What would cause my 2010 Chevy Traverse from not starting every single time we get gas, it takes at least 6-10 attempts to get the engine to turn over. This only happen when we refuel to vehicle, the car starts great every single time other than refueling. You clogged the purge valve on your traverse from topping it off after the pump shut off already. http://www.traverseforum.com/index.php?topic=3665.0 http://www.saturnoutlookforum.net/index.php?topic=2042.0
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Feb 2, 2016 23:37
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csidle posted:
Expect more odd poo poo to happen with your cooling system, the head gasket acts as a barrier between your head and your block.. there are often cooling passages that are often part of that, if the gasket no longer seals you end up with coolant in places it shouldn't. This also allows for holes in a system that is designed to be closed and pressurized. The head probably is hosed or Needs to be machined and a new gasket installed which for many cars means driving till it dies amd scrap it. Every time your vehicle overheats its a chance of death, which also increases the risk the next time it overheats. Don't take any long trips with this car, some day a piston will be ready to see the outside world.
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Feb 3, 2016 00:21
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I'm impressed it's lasted 30 days. That break in the gasket is going to get worse until you end up with coolant dumping into the cylinders or the oil. In a cylinder, it'll destroy the piston. In the oil, it'll sludge things up, gently caress with oil pressure, and probably ruin bearings. So driving it until it dies is a pretty apt description because it's going to destroy the motor one way or another.
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Feb 3, 2016 00:38
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A Mondeo head gasket is around £30/$45. Just stick a new one in. Although as others have said, it may be a bit late for that now. Still, one way to find out! Edit: lmao apparently book time on a 1996 Mondeo head gasket is 17 hours. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 01:12
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Calling all Jeep electric gurus! got a 05 cherokee with the 4.7 thats giving me a headache. The whole car is a nightmare with a dodgy past. It looks like it was in a major front end accident since it has new front body panels poorly aligned, a junk yard engine cradle, a junk yard engine etc... Anyway Came in with a dead/bad battery. So I put one in. Came in 5 days later with a no start. Customer didnt want to pay any diag and insisted it was the starter. After tapping on the starter it fired up so I shrugged and threw one in. Now its back today. Doing the same poo poo as in it clicks over and has a no start. Jumping the starter relay proves that the starter turns just fine. Check codes and it has a bunch of transmission codes including a reverse solenoid. I randomly turn the key and it fires up. What the gently caress. Ok its running in park. The cluster selector says reverse and my reverse lights are on. Try moving through the gears they seam to activate although it clunks going into reverse. Turn car off, wont start just clicks. If i try starting the car in drive or reverse it wont click over but in park and neutral it will. Seams normal. Im also getting two separate clicks between ignition on and turning the key all the way. Half way betwen ignition and all the way turned to the right, there is a click from the smart junction box in the drivers kick panel and then you hear the starter relay under the hood. At this point im getting pissed since there is no diag at all on this car but yet this is still all my fault somehow. Anyone here experience something similar? Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 02:08
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Preoptopus posted:
Yeah. Thats why I put the tool box in my own garage and found a different career. Good luck.
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Feb 3, 2016 02:19
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some texas redneck posted:You'll have a very difficult time removing the back seat, as you'll need to remove the seat belts too. And yes, climate control (and road noise) will be a very real issue. The Avalon has a large back seat, at least. You coulda just said road noise and I would've changed my mind. Didn't even think of it! I can easily do without it, thanks for your quick help.
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Feb 3, 2016 04:32
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v v I wasn't sure if road noise would be an issue for you or not. I know our 03 Avalon is pretty much Lexus quiet on the highway unless that little pass-through in the middle of the back seat to the trunk is open. Doesn't make a huge difference by itself, but I know from personal experience (not on the Avalon) that removing the rear seat usually makes a huge difference in road noise.
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Feb 3, 2016 04:36
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Is there a thread or recommended resource somewhere for paint chip repair? Are any of the DIY kits worth a poo poo or should I just bring it to a professional?
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Feb 3, 2016 17:19
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Christobevii3 posted:You clogged the purge valve on your traverse from topping it off after the pump shut off already. I got the computer read at Autozone and I received the two following codes, P0451 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor and P0496 EAP System Flow During Non Purge. As the pressure sensor requires the gas tank to be dropped I am going to go with the recommended purge valve instead and see if that fixes my issue. Thanks a ton for linking the above information, that was a wonderful help. Rythe fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 18:00
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Rad Lieutenant posted:Is there a thread or recommended resource somewhere for paint chip repair? Are any of the DIY kits worth a poo poo or should I just bring it to a professional? The detailing thread will be what you're after.
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Feb 3, 2016 18:03
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I have 1991 Toyota Pickup, 4wd V6 and I have an issue that the transmission shop can't seem to figure out. I have an intermittent rotationally grinding noise coming from the front differential area. There is a ton of play on the passenger side diff output flange. The shop said it was a wheel bearing so they replaced that for 900. The noise is still there. I've been doing a some reading on the diff and I found this online - '86-95 IFS trucks and 4Runners, and all '93-98 T100s use a 7.5" front diff that is offset to the passenger's side. Later models came with ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) which uses a vacuum actuated mechanism to disconnect the drivers side axle shaft from the differential. Carriers and gear sets are interchangeable between the two different versions (and also happen to be the same as used in the 2wd Toyota pickup 7.5" diffs). One difference between ADD and non-ADD diffs is that the carrier in an ADD differential has needle bearings supporting the axle shafts at the differential. The non-ADD diffs did not have this bearing and sometimes the passenger side axle flange wears the carrier and becomes loose or wobbly, eventually causing oil leaks, noise, and possible spider gear damage. That sounds exactly like what my issue is. So my question is how do I fix this? Since the non ADD diff doesn't have the bearing and the carrier is worn do I just replace the carrier? Should I find a new used diff and just swap the entire unit?
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Feb 3, 2016 23:49
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Pympede posted:The shop said it was a wheel bearing so they replaced that for 900. The noise is still there. I can't offer any advice, but this does raise a question that I've always had. If a shop diagnoses and completes work that ends up not being necessary, who foots the bill? If I bring my car in for a misfire and told it's the coil packs, get sold 8 new coilpacks, and the problem remains, who pays for them? I guess it's the customer, but does the shop not have a responsibility to provide an accurate diagnosis?
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Feb 4, 2016 01:02
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I can't offer any advice, but this does raise a question that I've always had. I am not a lawyer but nope.. they do the best they can to fix it they are still put parts and labor. You miiiight be able to fight them if they say your rear seat is broken, replace it and then it turns out you have a bad clutch, but then again as a consumer you should know better.
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Feb 4, 2016 01:18
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900 bux for a wheel bearing?!?!
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Feb 4, 2016 02:10
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PaintVagrant posted:900 bux for a wheel bearing?!?! My sentiimonies exactly.
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Feb 4, 2016 03:33
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I can't offer any advice, but this does raise a question that I've always had. This is all part of the gamble involved in paying a shop to diagnose your vehicle. If you pay special attention to the language used when a service counter guy is telling you whats wrong with your car you'll notice a lot of weasel words. "We believe...The technician found evidence that...this symptom is usually fixed by this solution..." stuff along those lines. Then you'll sign a printed out estimate with parts and labor for the recommended service, agreeing to pay the amount shown. Most of the time (hopefully) the mechanic was correct and the problem is solved. When it isnt, the shop can almost always claim "we didnt assure you 100% that the service you were purchasing was going to fix that problem, but the parts we replaced were definitely bad. You agreed to the service and signed the authorization, and ultimately it was your choice." I've spent a few years working for various terrible scum franchise shops. This is how they roll. Its also standard practice to use the cheapest part from the chain parts stores (oreily etc) and mark it up %150. Finding a small independent mechanic you trust is highly advised.
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Feb 4, 2016 03:57
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Raw_Beef posted:Finding a small independent mechanic you trust is highly advised. Do this everytime. My local trusted mechanic comped me some labor after failing to notice the timing belt change sticker that was toyota grey (not bright orange like his). Really not his fault but he felt bad since I handed over $800 for unneeded work.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:10
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The small independent mechanic will also use parts from a parts store. They may just not rape you on price quite as bad.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:11
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Elmnt80 posted:The small independent mechanic will also use parts from a parts store. They may just not rape you on price quite as bad. Theres no problem with using the standard parts houses, but a good mechanic will give you the option to buy the better quality line of parts, or even offer you to wait a few days to order the really good poo poo from a random obscure vendor. The bullshit is when they mark up the discount parts line items three times the original cost. The profit margins are actually really small in most auto shops, but an honest shop shouldnt be marking up more than %50.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:17
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Oh, I know. And an independent shop is much more likely to beat the parts store up on price to get it down to the lowest price we can realistically sell it for, regardless of what line it is.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:34
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So, a strange problem is happening to my car. 2003 VW Passat GLS, 180k miles, as a second owner. 1) The power windows work, sometimes. I've noticed that they work for a bit after the car has been started but after a few minutes of driving they won't work. HOWEVER, if I use the power door locks or open a door, the power windows are back to normal for what appears to be the rest of the duration of my drive. I'm perplexed, anyone have any ideas on what could be the issue? So far I've deduced that it's not related to speed, temperature, or lateral g forces on the car. 2) Probably related with electrical wiring issues, but sometimes when I use the key fob to lock the doors and press twice the horn doesn't beep as expected. If I unlock the doors and press lock twice it beeps. Sometimes. Likelihood of a haunted car?
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Feb 4, 2016 05:01
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Definitely ghosts. Nazis ghosts. Get out now.
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Feb 4, 2016 05:22
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Yeah VW, goodluck! Sanders has a better chance of winning the election
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Feb 4, 2016 05:32
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NarDmw posted:So, a strange problem is happening to my car. 2003 VW Passat GLS, 180k miles, as a second owner. Congradeulation sir or ma'am you own a vw with vw problems.. please visit your local dealer and throw $$$$ at the problem and it won't be solved or live with it.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:07
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Electrical problems...watch your coolant level.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:15
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Do cylinder heads affect the ci/cc displacement of the engine? I know they have the effect on compression, but otherwise I thought bore and stroke determined the displacement.
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Feb 4, 2016 11:16
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Well, I mean, their volume is independent of the volume of the...
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 11:25
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No, it doesn't change the displacement. The volume displaced by the piston during a stroke is the same whether there's 1cc of combustion chamber or 5l or even if the head is off in a ditch.
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Feb 4, 2016 11:27
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Well, your volumetric efficiency will be a little low if the head is off in a ditch.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:02
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Got a 99 blazer 4dr 4x4 that I just did both back calipers on due to stuck piston (on one) and the sliders on the mounting brackets weren't doing their job. Nothing funny. Replaced the drivers side with a bad caliper and had to redo it. Heard some grinding noises coming from the front this AM as I pulled in to work. I haven't had a chance to go out and check it out yet but it definitely sounds like the front drivers side is now sticking/stuck. Just bad timing or is there something that could be causing my calipers to get destroyed (other than being old) that I should worry about before replacing the front ones? Could old brake fluid be messing them up? It didn't look overly gross when I was bleeding the rear brakes or anything and it hasn't been run out of fluid. I am leaning towards when it rains it pours, but figured I'd ask around.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:55
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I'm losing my mind. I have non operational fog lights on my 03 forester. I have power to the fuse and switch, but not the relay, even though it clicks open/closed. Any ideas?
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Feb 5, 2016 00:26
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Ozmiander posted:I'm losing my mind. I have non operational fog lights on my 03 forester. I have power to the fuse and switch, but not the relay, even though it clicks open/closed. Any ideas? There should be a fuse in the engine compartment somewhere by the relay. If you don't have power at the relay, it's either that fuse or the wires between relay -> fuse-> battery. You're getting clicking so your switch gear and the relay is working as intended.
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Feb 5, 2016 01:14
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I recently bought a 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT. It had barely been driven and is really well maintained and is basically a dream compared to my old constantly malfunctioning Hyundai Accent. However yesterday it wouldn't unlock when I pressed the button on the key. I had to open manually at the door and even that took a lot of twisting and turning the key back and forth at various speeds while pulling the handle back and forth. Then when I got in it just didn't start, not even a single light on the dashboard. Today I got someone to help me jump start it thinking I had just stupidly left some light on because there was a storm on last time I drove it and I was in a bit of a hurry to get in. The dashboard lid up when I inserted the key once we had it hooked up but the car wouldn't start. All I could get was a slight clicking sound. The strangest thing was that even when there was no key in the ignition there was some sort of fan running near the front of the car on the right side but the AC was turned off and even if it was it shouldn't start spinning until the car is fully started. We tried removing the fuses one by one until we found the one powering the fan which turned out to be one marked "ABS Mod/J1962 Conn/PCM" in the manual. When that was removed the fan shut down but the car wouldn't even get a click and a warning light for "Electronic Throttle Control" popped up. We were then going to try and tow it to a mechanic but it's stuck park and won't budge. So my question is what might be the problem and how hosed am I? I found a video that's only semi-related but it has bible verses and a neckbeard shooting a laptop for no reason https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkJx0Phvmbc FreudianSlippers fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Feb 6, 2016 |
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Feb 6, 2016 13:26
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Reset the security, 4th post. Not sure on fan noise. http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php/1280-Dodge-Caliber-won-t-start!!!!!
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Feb 6, 2016 16:12
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The fan can run when the engine isn't running. The AC can't.
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Feb 6, 2016 17:49
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There's also a good chance the battery is just hosed to the point that you can't jump it. Actually, that's a very, very good possibility since it was run completely dead - car batteries rarely bounce back fully after that.
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Feb 6, 2016 20:31
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Hi goons. I need someone to tell me what can go wrong with air shocks. Particularly Fox 2.0 16" used shocks being sold on local Craigslist. guy says they were used twice on buggy but he swapped them out for coilovers. They are not charged currently. Is there a way to make sure they aren't messed up besides making sure the shafts are straight? Like can the seal go out? Here's the post http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5430309878.html Please don't buy them out from under me. I'm supposed to be welding my 4-link together on Monday and was originally going to use the stock shocks with some neat springs I have but this will remove a lot of clutter and make the bracket for the upper axle mounts easier to manufacture.
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Feb 7, 2016 04:05
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Cakefool posted:No, it doesn't change the displacement. The volume displaced by the piston during a stroke is the same whether there's 1cc of combustion chamber or 5l or even if the head is off in a ditch. But you measure displacement by calculating the piston stroke volume and adding the volume of the combustion chamber 
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Feb 7, 2016 06:13
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Is this the place to ask about wiring a new receiver into a really old car? My 24 year old cassette deck unit locked up, so I tried to replace it with a cheap box that had an aux in. I ain't gettin' the right wires together and I can't get it to the point of turning on. I need help. I have all the wiring guides I've been working from, if anyone here would know what to tell me. My dome light has conspicuously stopped working in the middle of this project.
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Feb 7, 2016 06:29
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