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I have both the 105 and the 155 and they're both fantastic. Question: What do I need to know about brass etch? I want to put runes on some space dwarf shoulders and I'm torn between using brass etch or doing lovely freehand
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Feb 5, 2016 18:26
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Slimnoid posted:The Patriot 105 goes for just a little more than that one, and I can personally attest to how good the Patriot is. Thanks for the advice, sadly on Amazon UK the Patriot 105's going for £135 / $195 which is a little bit more than I'd like to spend to start with. I'll have a search around see if I can get it cheaper somewhere. EDIT: Pretty sure this is the compressor I have: http://www.amazon.co.uk/FoxHunter-K...badger+airbrush richyp fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Feb 5, 2016 |
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Feb 5, 2016 18:30
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If you're not in a rush just keep checking the patriot, it goes on sale all the time on Amazon, I got mine for about £80 I think
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Feb 5, 2016 18:36
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Honestly any compressor in that price range with a moisture trap and pressure regulator should be fine. It may burn out in a year or two of regular use but whatever. Mine is an Amazon dealie and came with a cheap airbrush to learn on, works great. The brush is long dead but the compressor is still kicking, and is quieter than my HVAC so noise isn't an issue.
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Feb 5, 2016 18:37
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Get it direct from the Badger importer for the UK: http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/airbrushes/12-badger-105-patriot-airbrush.html £87 for just the airbrush or £112 with a starter set of Minitaire paints, a hose and a big bottle of cleaner/thinner: http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/airbrush-sets/127-badger-patriot-airbrush-minitaire-starter-set-.html And tell him Frank sent you!
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Feb 5, 2016 18:37
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richyp posted:EDIT: Pretty sure this is the compressor I have: http://www.amazon.co.uk/FoxHunter-K...badger+airbrush I started with one of those compressors and it works well enough in 15-20 minute bursts, which is long enough to varnish and do base coats. Any longer than that and I find it got too hot. If you plan to airbrush often I recommend grabbing a compressor with a built-in air tank; it really cuts down on how often the compressor runs, and gives you a constant supply of cool air. The TC-20T I mentioned in a previous post is a pretty solid buy for a compressor--it's not the high-end stuff like you see out of Badger, but for the price it really can't be beat.
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Feb 5, 2016 18:40
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signalnoise posted:I have both the 105 and the 155 and they're both fantastic. Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit, then dry fit some more. Pencil in some guides if you need to, as its a pain in the rear end to reposition when using super glue, it'll adhere instantly. It's also easier to bend them when they've been warmed up a little.
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Feb 5, 2016 18:46
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I just bought Game Color Black, Gory Red, and Bloody Red, and they're all super glossy? 
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Feb 5, 2016 18:54
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ijyt posted:Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit, then dry fit some more. Pencil in some guides if you need to, as its a pain in the rear end to reposition when using super glue, it'll adhere instantly. Do I need to worry about oil on my hands when I'm dry fitting or no
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Feb 5, 2016 19:13
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah if you think of the eBay special airbrush as disposable it's fine. You WILL break it though. They're super hard to clean properly, almost as if they were designed to be, and stripping it to clean it better is like a coinflip for whether you'll tear the barrel clean in half. I've used an ebay special for several years now. Think it cost me £12 back in 2011. As long as the job doesn't involve anything overly fancy, the cheap brush works just fine. I did pick up an Ultra recently, just to try out Harder & Steenbeck's stuff but I haven't actually used it for anything yet. The floating nozzle is cool though. Geisladisk posted:I just bought Game Color Black, Gory Red, and Bloody Red, and they're all super glossy? This is normal (at least mine are super glossy as well, and always have been). Apparently VGC paints are more resistant to scratch damage than Vallejo's other ranges, and the glossiness is (supposedly) a side effect of the resin:pigment ratio.
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Feb 5, 2016 19:21
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Speaking of glossiness, Minitaire paints are going to be relaunched with all super flat colors at Adepticon, so anyone that had problems with the varied gloss/matte effect of those paints so far, they've sorted it out. This coincides with the release of their new Flatitive paint additive, which is what the updated paints are blended with.
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Feb 5, 2016 19:35
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krushgroove posted:Speaking of glossiness, Minitaire paints are going to be relaunched with all super flat colors at Adepticon, so anyone that had problems with the varied gloss/matte effect of those paints so far, they've sorted it out. This coincides with the release of their new Flatitive paint additive, which is what the updated paints are blended with. Honestly this is more than I expected. Might try them out, I ended up giving my non-ghost tint minitaire stuff to my wife as like a high class version of delta ceramcoat
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Feb 5, 2016 19:37
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Whipped up another unit of Wights. This time with axes      
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Feb 5, 2016 20:33
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Those are pretty fuckin cool.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:38
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OneTrueBru posted:This is normal (at least mine are super glossy as well, and always have been). Apparently VGC paints are more resistant to scratch damage than Vallejo's other ranges, and the glossiness is (supposedly) a side effect of the resin:pigment ratio. The scratch-resistance always seemed like a weird selling point to me. You're going to varnish your little guys anyway, right? Right?
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Feb 5, 2016 20:42
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signalnoise posted:Do I need to worry about oil on my hands when I'm dry fitting or no Nah not really. I mean try not to be excessively oily.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:45
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ijyt posted:Nah not really. I mean try not to be excessively oily. We're all goons here
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Feb 5, 2016 20:46
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Iron Crowned posted:We're all goons here FYI Cheeto dust makes a great orange rust weathering powder.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:47
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If you don't eat your cheetos with a dust collection bib you're streets behind
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Feb 5, 2016 20:52
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What can I use Mountain Dew Green on?
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Feb 5, 2016 20:53
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I probably haven't varnished a mini in 6 years, and my main army is 20 year old metals.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:55
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Iron Crowned posted:What can I use Mountain Dew Green on? 
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Feb 5, 2016 20:56
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I hereby declare these lizards done!  I do need to do some basing for them, but since they're for Frostgrave use, i need to study up on snow effects. or possibly just rebase them on something fancy later on. in order of appearance left to right, We've got my Apprentice, the Captain and the Wizard itself (lizards are genderless)
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Feb 5, 2016 22:06
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Slimnoid posted:Whipped up another unit of Wights. This time with axes
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Feb 5, 2016 22:52
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Big Ink posted:Could you give a little more description on what marks you notice? I've been using these for years and haven't noticed anything to un-recommend them... aside from their habit of soaking up every tiny piece of dust they scrape off. Genuine curiosity, not "you're wrong i kill you blah blah." Sorry for the delay. Here's a my example. Look at the panel right above the yellow cutters:  Left side was filed using american produced nicholson files and the right side was done with their cheaper imported ones. This might be a quality control thing, but the bottom line is that it is not as smooth for me. I use both now. Like you said the fine one clogs up constantly so its tough to use on large areas or when you need to file away lots of material. The lower quality ones are good for this, as the teeth are rougher and take bigger chunks out of the resin, but I have to smooth it out afterwards because that texture will definitely be seen.
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Feb 5, 2016 22:56
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Avenging Dentist posted:The scratch-resistance always seemed like a weird selling point to me. You're going to varnish your little guys anyway, right? Right? Same here, I always wondered who is painting gaming models and not varnishing. I get the complaints about VMC being easy to rub off metal even with light handling, but I don't know who the use case is for paints that are slightly more resilient so you don't have to varnish but also super glossy so you want to varnish anyway. With the exception of a couple colors I can't stand how VGC feels to paint with anyway though. Good to hear about the Minitaire relaunch - I have never had an issue with the finish of those paints (both since they aren't too glossy for me and also I varnish anyway) but relaunching while also releasing an additive for people who want them to be matte but don't want to rebuy them is about as well as you can do it.
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Feb 5, 2016 22:56
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BULBASAUR posted:Sorry for the delay. Here's a my example. Look at the panel right above the yellow cutters: Wow, I have the cheap imports and after a quick look at some of my things you may have gotten the short of end of the quality stick. I'd be pretty pissed if anything left that kind of mark.
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Feb 5, 2016 23:49
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All of my needle files are pretty poo poo, even the 'diamond' ones I picked up from the nearby DIY shop (which were maybe £6). The ones I want to get are about £35, so 6x the price but they are very highly regarded so I'll eventually plump up for them. For now, though, I have lots of Flexi-File sandpaper tools which cover up a lot of the marks that the cheap files leave behind.
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Feb 6, 2016 00:00
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So like 8 years ago, a friend of mine built a Chaos Rhino and just left it at my house. I figured he wasn't missing it, so I beat the hell out of it and looted it! I'll be using it as a trukk in games of 40k, but I wanted to get at least one looted Rhino in the army because I like the look so much.      
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Feb 6, 2016 00:08
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Does anyone have recommendations for an epoxy adhesive that works well on pewter? I have some bits I need to glue together with fairly large contact areas but that don't fit super snugly, and aren't really amenable to pinning (although I might try anyway). Epoxy seems like a decent option, since it should fill in the gaps pretty well. Because of how the pieces fit, I'm not too worried about the epoxy expanding or anything. It just needs to stick well.
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Feb 6, 2016 04:03
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have recommendations for an epoxy adhesive that works well on pewter? I have some bits I need to glue together with fairly large contact areas but that don't fit super snugly, and aren't really amenable to pinning (although I might try anyway). Epoxy seems like a decent option, since it should fill in the gaps pretty well. Because of how the pieces fit, I'm not too worried about the epoxy expanding or anything. It just needs to stick well. JB Weld Steelstik edit: Take anything I say regarding materials with a grain of salt, but it does work and I've used it
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Feb 6, 2016 04:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have recommendations for an epoxy adhesive that works well on pewter? I have some bits I need to glue together with fairly large contact areas but that don't fit super snugly, and aren't really amenable to pinning (although I might try anyway). Epoxy seems like a decent option, since it should fill in the gaps pretty well. Because of how the pieces fit, I'm not too worried about the epoxy expanding or anything. It just needs to stick well. Weldwood contact cement is the real poo poo.
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Feb 6, 2016 04:46
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I painted this guy in front as I was demoing blending to some peeps. The contrast does not come across at all. It goes from almost white to almost black both on the skin and the blue, but oh well. There's a couple of his friends I painted last year too. and this ball that I never posted in this thread 
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Feb 6, 2016 07:48
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have recommendations for an epoxy adhesive that works well on pewter? I have some bits I need to glue together with fairly large contact areas but that don't fit super snugly, and aren't really amenable to pinning (although I might try anyway). Epoxy seems like a decent option, since it should fill in the gaps pretty well. Because of how the pieces fit, I'm not too worried about the epoxy expanding or anything. It just needs to stick well. I've never gone wrong with araldite.
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Feb 6, 2016 10:47
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Got a problem. I am painting up a kind of large mini (taking a break from the minotaur for a sec) and the paint I'm using (VMC luftwaffe uniform ww2) is like, really thin I guess? Paint keeps rubbing off it. Should I just varnish between paint sessions or go ahead and base the loving thing, that's the question. Or maybe both? He's too big for the cork I have. I have a habit of laying a mini down when I'm done with it for the time being and it's scraping the poo poo out of this guy.
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Feb 6, 2016 15:27
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signalnoise posted:Got a problem. I am painting up a kind of large mini (taking a break from the minotaur for a sec) and the paint I'm using (VMC luftwaffe uniform ww2) is like, really thin I guess? Paint keeps rubbing off it. Should I just varnish between paint sessions or go ahead and base the loving thing, that's the question. Or maybe both? He's too big for the cork I have. I have a habit of laying a mini down when I'm done with it for the time being and it's scraping the poo poo out of this guy. I've had this exact same problem with VMC German Camo Medium Brown, maybe it's a quirk of the formula with their panzer series paints? Not found a solution yet.
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Feb 6, 2016 16:20
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VMC paints look pretty but rub off if you look at them wrong. Don't touch them until you varnish.
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Feb 6, 2016 16:44
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Pierzak posted:VMC paints look pretty but rub off if you look at them wrong. Don't touch them until you varnish. No this is much worse than any other VMC paint I have. The others I can pick up and handle, albeit gently, without them taking damage. This German Camo Brown just comes off under the slightest touch, let alone when picked up.
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Feb 6, 2016 16:47
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Pierzak posted:VMC paints look pretty but rub off if you look at them wrong. Don't touch them until you varnish. I have pretty much exclusively used VMC for years so I really should varnish stuff. Luckily I never really play with anything I paint and have not really had a problem with paint rubbing off (yet). I've had painted plastic models survive being thrown in boxes and buried under other models relatively scratch free, metal ones however seem to shed their paint a lot easier. I hear varnish works great with airbrushes and if I keep coming up with reasons I need to get an airbrush then I'll successfully have justified a purchase I'm inevitably going to make next month. That and if I click checkout on the Infinity box set I've been procrastinating over for the last 2 days, it'll make base coating easier all the goodies inside it too. I did go rummaging around some boxed up stuff earlier and found a couple of badly painted and chipped metal Ariadna models I must've bought ages ago after getting fed up with GW that are in definite need of a repaint. Did the infinity stuff used to be a smaller scale or is the scantily clad caledionan volunteer just much smaller than an average Combined Army grunt?
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Feb 6, 2016 17:02
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It's not quite a larger scale now but they did sort of "heroic" it. The new stuff is intentionally bulkier than before for ease of painting and badassery, but not to like GW clown shoes level.
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Feb 6, 2016 17:19
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