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Feb 2, 2016 18:44
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| # ? May 26, 2024 09:37 |
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Feb 2, 2016 19:44
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What do you suppose a poor condition hard top for the NA/NB is worth? Its got defroster hardware installed, the rubbery heardliner. Glass all instact. It just looks like poo poo from the outside. Lots of scratches and great big ole rough spots in the paint. I was hoping to get $500?
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Feb 2, 2016 23:26
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At least 800 dollars if it has the mounting hardware solid and intact. Paint condition almost does not matter.
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Feb 2, 2016 23:42
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craig588 posted:At least 800 dollars if it has the mounting hardware solid and intact. Paint condition almost does not matter. What if the weather stripping looks bad? Also, best place to sell?
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Feb 2, 2016 23:46
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obeyasia posted:What if the weather stripping looks bad? Also, best place to sell? It can be repainted, and replacing the weather stripping is probably an easy job. As long as it's not broken in half or leaking or whatever, it'll sell just fine. If nobody wants it here (or in SA Mart) then Craigs will probably be your best bet unless you want to deal with the m.net mutants. You could also find a local Miata club and I'm sure somebody will take it. Do you have some photos you could share with us so we can see just how bad you think it looks?
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Feb 3, 2016 08:03
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15 hours in on rollbar install and ONE bolt doesn't line up. I have all the backing plates fastened and somehow the drivers side seatbelt tower is off a few mm. Think it'd be ok to slot the top hole in the rollbar enough so the bolt fits straight, or should I really loosen everything up again and try to massage it into place?
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Feb 3, 2016 09:20
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King of all Machines Operate posted:15 hours in on rollbar install and ONE bolt doesn't line up. I have all the backing plates fastened and somehow the drivers side seatbelt tower is off a few mm. Think it'd be ok to slot the top hole in the rollbar enough so the bolt fits straight, or should I really loosen everything up again and try to massage it into place? Did you tighten all the bolts already? Perhaps that's why this one is off. Lower them all down at the same time slowly so it doesn't get misaligned?
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Feb 3, 2016 13:33
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I did a slightly different looking roll bar but I just very loosely threaded the bolts before tightening anything, and even then it required a bit wiggling around. Tightening some bolts up at first and it would never have fit.
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Feb 3, 2016 14:05
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King of all Machines Operate posted:15 hours in on rollbar install and ONE bolt doesn't line up. I have all the backing plates fastened and somehow the drivers side seatbelt tower is off a few mm. Think it'd be ok to slot the top hole in the rollbar enough so the bolt fits straight, or should I really loosen everything up again and try to massage it into place? Has your car ever been in an accident? I would loosen everything off and try to get the bolt in without notching anything. A prybar might help. You shouldn't tighten any of the bolts down until all the bolts are in, you'll have the most play this way.
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Feb 3, 2016 15:20
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Atomizer posted:It can be repainted, and replacing the weather stripping is probably an easy job. As long as it's not broken in half or leaking or whatever, it'll sell just fine. If nobody wants it here (or in SA Mart) then Craigs will probably be your best bet unless you want to deal with the m.net mutants. You could also find a local Miata club and I'm sure somebody will take it. I took some pictures and put them in an imgur gallery for you. http://imgur.com/a/eSS4h This thing it totally for sale, someone please make me a reasonable offer! I am in Birmingham, AL 35205. You'll have to come pick it up. Cash only.
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Feb 3, 2016 16:07
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How much do NA cars go for in other parts of the country? I'm looking at picking up a pre-OBD2 Miata for a rotary swap in the next year or so, but the salt we get skews the pricepoint.
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Feb 3, 2016 16:43
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obeyasia posted:I took some pictures and put them in an imgur gallery for you. Ok, I see what you mean, but it's not that bad. It's a functioning Miata hardtop, so that's all that really matters. The next person to repaint it will have to replace the weather stripping anyway. You replacing the car too? mekilljoydammit posted:How much do NA cars go for in other parts of the country? I'm looking at picking up a pre-OBD2 Miata for a rotary swap in the next year or so, but the salt we get skews the pricepoint. I guess you could check prices in nicer areas of the country where Miatas last longer, but you have to leverage the cost of transporting the vehicle, and 20+ year old Miatas aren't that expensive to begin with. I dunno, maybe check Florida for prices? Let us know how the rotary project goes though! 
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Feb 3, 2016 19:22
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mekilljoydammit posted:How much do NA cars go for in other parts of the country? I'm looking at picking up a pre-OBD2 Miata for a rotary swap in the next year or so, but the salt we get skews the pricepoint. I'm in Ohio and I've seen them go for $2500 to $5k. I think I've seen as high as 6k though.
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Feb 3, 2016 19:47
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Atomizer posted:I guess you could check prices in nicer areas of the country where Miatas last longer, but you have to leverage the cost of transporting the vehicle, and 20+ year old Miatas aren't that expensive to begin with. I dunno, maybe check Florida for prices? Yeah, it's more of a "... okay, I'm familiar with what a cheap Miata costs and how bad it is around here, what goes wrong in places where they don't rust?" kinda thing. Ideal would be selling the stock 1.6/1.8 after I get it home, if there's any market. I know the rotary Miata has been done before, but given what I know about building rotaries it just seems like such an obvious thing to do, and a perfect backroad attack summer car.
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Feb 3, 2016 19:48
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obeyasia posted:I took some pictures and put them in an imgur gallery for you. If you're selling the strikers and have the latches you can get $800 on craigslist pretty easy. I have someone picking up mine for $1300 with the mounting hardware included.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:14
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mekilljoydammit posted:Yeah, it's more of a "... okay, I'm familiar with what a cheap Miata costs and how bad it is around here, what goes wrong in places where they don't rust?" kinda thing. Ideal would be selling the stock 1.6/1.8 after I get it home, if there's any market. I've lived in Chiraq all my life, but someone said that in hotter, drier parts of the country, even though they don't have to worry about salt and rust, the paint fades badly on cars down there. I'm sure someone will buy the original motor (+trans?) but don't expect all that much for it.
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Feb 4, 2016 08:29
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Atomizer posted:I've lived in Chiraq all my life, but someone said that in hotter, drier parts of the country, even though they don't have to worry about salt and rust, the paint fades badly on cars down there. If the car was left in direct sunlight its whole life, or majority of it, you can see the paint fade significantly. Simply garaging it or using a car port will stop the fade from occurring.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:08
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Follow up on the belt chirp: tightening the belt significantly reduced the loudness of the chirp but it still happens. Probably just going to have to deal with it until I can afford to replace the compressor. So, until the car falls apart/is sold. 
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Feb 4, 2016 22:38
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Great Beer posted:Follow up on the belt chirp: tightening the belt significantly reduced the loudness of the chirp but it still happens. Probably just going to have to deal with it until I can afford to replace the compressor. Did you use a belt gauge like a krikit or something? My belt used to chirp because it was hilariously loose (like, off the bottom of the scale) but still somehow worked. It took a ton of tightening to get it to factory spec.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:05
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It also could be a bad belt. Even brands you'd expect would have a higher level of quality control end up with bad belts. I had a Goodyear one once that wouldn't stop stretching and eventually it reached the limit of how much you were able to adjust the tensioner.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:40
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Yeah if it's a cheap belt go spend the money and get a high quality premium belt by Dayco or Goodyear. I bought a cheap alt belt (5 bucks) for my protege and it made all kinds of noise, took it back and got a premium Dayco for 15 bucks and it's buttery smooth, never going to cheap out on belts again.
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Feb 5, 2016 03:15
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Cat Hatter posted:Did you use a belt gauge like a krikit or something? My belt used to chirp because it was hilariously loose (like, off the bottom of the scale) but still somehow worked. It took a ton of tightening to get it to factory spec. I used the Mk.1 Torque Gauge (my arm and a socket wrench) and tightened it about a 1/4 turn at a time until it stopped making as much noise. I couldn't fit my cheapshit torque wrench in there so I don't know what it's tightened to. If/when the belt breaks I'll get some nicer belts (and an extension for my wrench) and do it properly. It's probably got some crappy autozone brand belts right now.
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Feb 5, 2016 04:33
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Great Beer posted:I used the Mk.1 Torque Gauge (my arm and a socket wrench) and tightened it about a 1/4 turn at a time until it stopped making as much noise. I couldn't fit my cheapshit torque wrench in there so I don't know what it's tightened to. If/when the belt breaks I'll get some nicer belts (and an extension for my wrench) and do it properly. It's probably got some crappy autozone brand belts right now. Yeah for serious get a Gates or Dayco. I spent loving weeks loosening and tightening accessory belts trying to get it to stop chirping until I just switched both out for good belts.
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Feb 5, 2016 05:14
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Dameius posted:If the car was left in direct sunlight its whole life, or majority of it, you can see the paint fade significantly. Simply garaging it or using a car port will stop the fade from occurring. Yeah, but I'm saying this doesn't end up being an issue where I live, yet I'm told further South it's a much bigger deal. Contrast this with how our cars rust out and theirs don't. Maybe the cars around here don't last long enough to have faded paint, or if they do last, they've ultimately been garaged through the worst parts of the year and have to worry about neither the rust nor the paint. 
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Feb 5, 2016 08:27
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Chriskory posted:Seems like a non-issue. Maybe try to disconnect the batt. and reset the ECU. I hosed down both sides of that tube with MAF cleaner and also cleaned the pins connecting it to the vehicle wiring harness. The throttle body was a bit dirty but I cleaned that too. I think I will use an OBD reader and use Torque to see what is happening with it.
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Feb 5, 2016 14:19
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Great Beer posted:I used the Mk.1 Torque Gauge (my arm and a socket wrench) and tightened it about a 1/4 turn at a time until it stopped making as much noise. I couldn't fit my cheapshit torque wrench in there so I don't know what it's tightened to. If/when the belt breaks I'll get some nicer belts (and an extension for my wrench) and do it properly. It's probably got some crappy autozone brand belts right now. Go get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUTAGS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_nPoTwb12JKV7 Put your finger in the little loop, push the little plastic arm on the left down, and then press the whole assembly against the belt where the arrow is on the following diagram (depending on the belt you're reading and if you have power steering or not):  Push down until it clicks. The belt deflection will push the plastic arm up and where it crosses the metal is the current tension of the belt. Tighten the tension adjuster and retest until the gauge reads between I'd never used a belt tensioner either, but this (actually the version that goes up to 300lbs for serpentine belts) was recommended in the Jeep thread and its so cheap and easy to use I wish I had gotten one earlier.
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Feb 5, 2016 19:54
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I'm back! Picked up this 97 with 18x,xxx miles for 1700 a few days ago. Completely stock, runs well but needs a complete refreshing and checkup.. and brakes... and suspension.. First NA and I think I already like it more than my NB. 
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Feb 6, 2016 03:17
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My friend test drove and bought an ND Club today. MSRP 29550 with keyless entry. They gave him a 1k discount without too much hassle, probably had more give. This was in Boston (Wellesley Mazda). He was just so into it that I couldn't slow his roll any. I thought it was a great car, just not one I would buy new. There's not another roadster new that is anything close to the Miata. More driving impressions: - shifter is too soft and easy for my liking. That might be cuz I've gotten used to the 348's shifter, though? - pedal box space was good, even in my big not-for-driving sneakers - clutch was numb but had good modulation - seat could have been a little lower. I didn't have any vision issues; I just prefer to be really low in the car - steering is slightly on the light side, but lends the right delicate feel to the car - suspension is a good compromise. I wouldn't have minded if it were stiffer, though - the ratio jump from 1 to 2 was pretty dramatic, but I think it's worth the acceleration off the line - decent enough oomph in the motor, - though it sounds pedestrian. I hope an exhaust can fix it, as all the noise was coming from the front - I got thrown by the single center latch for the top. Did the NCs have that? - seat was unremarkable, but I liked the strong texture on the cloth - everything I liked about my NA is still here, which is super important and admirable of Mazda If I were in the market for a roadster and could get an NC Club for <$15k, that's probably what I'd do. I don't mind the bubbly look of the NC, and I don't think I need the car to be razor sharp handling-wise.
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Feb 7, 2016 02:48
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NC2 GT or NC3 club or GT are definitely the best bargain in miata-dom right now, but the ND is a better car. PRHT NC has the single center latch, not sure on the soft top
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Feb 7, 2016 02:55
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yeah as an owner for 5 weeks, ratio jump from 1 to 2 gets annoying, and the seat height can be bad. I'm 5'10 and still feel I need to have the seat back a couple clicks further back than ideal, and also tilt the backrest all the way back. it's totally fine for me but you have visibility issues due to the mirror being right in your face otherwise. just drove it from SF bay to SLO california, and to some beaches today in 75deg weather. really fun.
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Feb 7, 2016 03:02
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The soft top NC is a single center latch too and the shifter feels great and the clutch isn't numb. You can get one in the price range you stated you were interested.
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Feb 7, 2016 03:37
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crutt posted:I'm back! Picked up this 97 with 18x,xxx miles for 1700 a few days ago. Completely stock, runs well but needs a complete refreshing and checkup.. and brakes... and suspension.. First NA and I think I already like it more than my NB. That is a smoking deal and I'm a little jelly.
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Feb 7, 2016 17:55
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UK MX5 goon de-lurking here. 2001 1.8 s-vt sport, recently developed a whirring bearing-type noise that went away with the slightest touch of the clutch pedal. gently caress, I thought. Sounds like it could be the release bearing (I think you guys call it a throw-out bearing?). Anyway, someone said it might be the joint between the clutch lever and the slave cylinder pushrod rubbing and making the noise. Somewhat skeptically, I pulled the front driver's side wheel, and applied a big gently caress off blob of grease to the aforementioned joint. Rather surprisingly, the noise went away. Apparently I don't need to get the clutch done, yay! Now all I need to do is fix the bloody leaking roof, change the brakes, timing belt and all the accessory belts... easy right?
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Feb 7, 2016 22:39
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I had a dream that you could in fact dismiss and tuck the screen on the ND, so I guess I can a subconscious beef with that.
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Feb 7, 2016 22:40
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Finally got some disposable income and I want to replace the curb rashed wheels on my 2002 LS. What size wheel will give the best performance? I know 15x8's are popular on the forums but I remember discussing snowtires on here and someone said that most 15's wont fit due to the brake calipers.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:54
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They're actually in stock right now, so get them while you can http://949racing.com/15x8-6UL.aspx They'll clear most big brake kits, but if you're using something significantly bigger than the OEM sport brakes check before ordering. If you want something cheaper, but not as well tested, these are an option too. http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1386.html They're made on a much more regular schedule than 6ULs so there's no rush to order them. craig588 fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 01:02
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Are Rota wheels any good? I really love the look of the Rota Grid V's.
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Feb 8, 2016 01:29
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Rota is pretty much the bottom of the barrel in terms of weight and strength. They're always cited as the generic low end wheel brand.
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Feb 8, 2016 01:46
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| # ? May 26, 2024 09:37 |
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Yeah don't buy rotas
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Feb 8, 2016 02:13
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