|
krushgroove posted:The 30K thread has good pictures from the recent HH Weekender that shows a painting progression of all 18 legions. For Thousand Sons it's basically: prime black, spray silver, spray clear red, paint trim and details. Tamiya TS-74 clear red acrylic spray paint is what you'll want if you don't have an airbrush. This is exactly what I was after, which I somehow managed to dance around. The clear reds I've got laying around don't produce the result I'm looking for, so I'll give TS-74 a shot and see what happens. I've got a cheap airbrush, but the only thing I've ever done with it is paint up a rifle with duracoat, and then purchase a replacement for the horribly clogged brush afterwards.
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 18:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 14:07 |
|
|
Iron Crowned posted:Using two wildly different vessels has prevented me from mistaking paint water from drinking things. Paint water goes in a cleaned out Bath and Body Works single wick candle jar. Everything else goes in a mug or remains in the bottle. I pretty much exclusively drink beer while painting in the evening, it's pretty hard to mix up a bottle and whatever container I'm using as a brush bath. It's also a great incentive to speed paint as usually my last step is black lining and after several pints black lining becomes more like pin the tail on the donkey.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 18:27
|
|
|
This thread caused me to clean up my work space to at least a slightly respectable level. And some WIPs. Mostly been just sticking things on bases and priming, but I have some paint started on a couple guys. Bugbear is a reaper bones.    
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 20:29
|
|
|
Reynold posted:I've decided to go all Tactical Strike with a small group of peeps for 30k, and I think I'm gonna split my Calth box into a good handful of different legions so I don't die of boredom painting 30 spacemans the same color. I'm satisfied with what I have been coming up with for test paint schemes, but so far the one thing that's eluded my grasp is the metallic red for the Thousand Sons, as shown here: What krushgroove said, but if you want the ~~official~~ guide: 1. Prime black 2. Generous zenithal spray of FW Iron Hands (Leadbelcher I guess) 3. Careful zenithal spray of Runefang Steel 4. Multiple thin coats of Angron Clear Red (or Tamiya Clear Red, but it's a bit darker). 5. Edge highlight runefang
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 20:34
|
|
|
What's a good way to get dust off of Reaper Bones models without messing up the paint or material? Leaving these things on a desk even for a day seems to get them caked in dust.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 21:04
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:What's a good way to get dust off of Reaper Bones models without messing up the paint or material? Leaving these things on a desk even for a day seems to get them caked in dust. You should start by dusting your house I think
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 21:10
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:What's a good way to get dust off of Reaper Bones models without messing up the paint or material? Leaving these things on a desk even for a day seems to get them caked in dust. A make up brush with very soft bristles (grab one from the dollar store) Or compressed air if you have a compressor Or canned air from an office supply place. Real answer, keep your models behind glass.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 21:13
|
|
|
I'll try the make-up brush since I already have one. Just wanted to check with you folks first in case something weird happened. And yeah, I'm working on getting little cases for in-progress stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 22:10
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:And yeah, I'm working on getting little cases for in-progress stuff. I could use a recommendation
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 22:24
|
|
|
But seriously, your last 2 post topics in this thread have been about how your stuff is constantly getting covered in dust Clean your house
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 22:32
|
|
|
 It's comical how heavy this thing is now. So much resin.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2016 05:09
|
|
|
Reynold posted:I've decided to go all Tactical Strike with a small group of peeps for 30k, and I think I'm gonna split my Calth box into a good handful of different legions so I don't die of boredom painting 30 spacemans the same color. I'm satisfied with what I have been coming up with for test paint schemes, but so far the one thing that's eluded my grasp is the metallic red for the Thousand Sons, as shown here: If you want a really bright clear paint the Reaper one is nice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2016 06:04
|
|
|
Does anyone have recommendations for a good facemask to use when sanding resin? I suppose one that works for airbrushing would be ok, but perhaps that's overkill. Also, is there anything I should do to clean up my work area (which is in the kitchen) when I'm done? I doubt it'll go everywhere, but better safe than sorry.
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Feb 10, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 06:34
|
|
|
Hey guys! I have gone from "thin your paints" terrible to only half eye-blindingly terrible! Although the macro lense doesn't help my case. But take a look at my first semi-major project i'm using for practicing my skills! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 06:45
|
|
|
Can't really tell anything with that much shadow, even a washed out pic with the flash would be better than a shadowy one. You've clearly thinned your paints now you need to learn how to apply them in even coats, your red is very patchy, not uncommon for red, so it probably needs a few more thin coats to get a universal color tone across the surface.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 07:10
|
|
|
Yeast posted:
Owns. I love that model. On a related note: 
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 08:01
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Owns. I love that model. They have pills for that now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 08:02
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have recommendations for a good facemask to use when sanding resin? I suppose one that works for airbrushing would be ok, but perhaps that's overkill. Also, is there anything I should do to clean up my work area (which is in the kitchen) when I'm done? I doubt it'll go everywhere, but better safe than sorry. My general recommendation for everything would be a 3M Half Facepiece Respirator. The basic 6000 series is already pretty great, i use one a lot at work and it's been really durable and comfortable. If you want to go a bit fancier the 6500 and 7000 series have more exchangeable parts and stuff like quick release mechanisms. In addition to the face piece you'll need some filters, there's particulate if you're just sanding or spraying non-toxic paints and solvent ones with optional particulate clip-ons if you're spraying enamels or lacquers. Though you probably shouldn't be doing the latter in the kitchen.  Even if you get the fanciest mask with solvent plus particulate filters it shouldn't run you more than 35$ and will last you forever. I care a lot about this stuff and seriously, everyone who does resin sanding or any sort of spraying without a really good fume hood should have a respirator. As for cleanup, normal household cleaning should be fine, you mainly don't want to breath in the dust since it'll do nasty things to your lungs and stay there forever.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 09:46
|
|
|
So, I've been improving my painting, and I like where my models are at and I'm more than a bit proud of them, perhaps to the point of being obsessed with making them look good. Some examples for those who don't visit the 40k thread.     Still, I see stuff done by professionals like Den Of Imagination and I'm still simply in awe of what people create. I'm unsure what to do on top of what I'm already doing to take guys up a level. Of course I don't want to put a week into each model but being able to make my heroes or special weapon guys stand out more would be great. Is getting an airbrush a requirement at some point?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 10:51
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:Is getting an airbrush a requirement at some point? Yes. Also, wet blending, and not dry brushing your edge highlights. Weathering pigments for your vehicles, and more stages of highlighting / shading. edit: the lenses on your land raider are A+ delicious.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 10:58
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Yes. Got some videos that go over this all in detail? Like I'm unsure what extra highlighting I need to be doing on the those tiny marine armor plates. I don't have the workspace for an airbrush ATM, I assume I need a wide open well ventilated area. The guys on Warhammer TV had a simple how-to video on how to do minor weathering and rust spots on your vehicles that involved using sponges, but frankly I'm a bit afraid of loving it up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 11:52
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:Got some videos that go over this all in detail? Like I'm unsure what extra highlighting I need to be doing on the those tiny marine armor plates. I don't have the workspace for an airbrush ATM, I assume I need a wide open well ventilated area. Sponge painting shouldn't really be considered difficult or hard in any way - the only way you can mess it up is to apply it too much. Just because top-level static model painters, Forge World guys and Golden Demon winners use it doesn't mean it's 'advanced' - you're just dabbing on a bit of paint with a torn-off piece of spongey foam. Try it on an old model and you'll see how simple it is. If you want super easy rust effect use a texture paint like Typhus Corrosion and when it's dry a quick drybrush with a medium orange - comes out really nice!
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 12:06
|
|
|
Grabbed the Infinity starter set. Which sadist decided on (arguably hard to paint) red, black and white on the same colour scheme. Forced to use black primer for this one so it's not as bright/smooth as my Morat stuff. RIP: Badly treated, never properly cleaned W&N brush from 2008, shopping list for March is now: 1) Airbrush 2) Brush
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 12:07
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Sponge painting shouldn't really be considered difficult or hard in any way - the only way you can mess it up is to apply it too much. Just because top-level static model painters, Forge World guys and Golden Demon winners use it doesn't mean it's 'advanced' - you're just dabbing on a bit of paint with a torn-off piece of spongey foam. Try it on an old model and you'll see how simple it is. I suppose the question is, does weathering contribute to my vehicles if none of my guys are weathered? The Land Raider is so clean and pristine would weathering make it look better?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 12:52
|
|
|
richyp posted:
I hear the Brokentoad brushes are good, while cheaper than W&N.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 14:35
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:I suppose the question is, does weathering contribute to my vehicles if none of my guys are weathered? The Land Raider is so clean and pristine would weathering make it look better? I find that metallic pigments make for smooth highlights on bare metal
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 14:38
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:I suppose the question is, does weathering contribute to my vehicles if none of my guys are weathered? The Land Raider is so clean and pristine would weathering make it look better? I treat weathering the same way I treat picking a colour scheme, I'll be working around that as a key focal point. I don't think it's a mandatory thing, its just a preference like edge highlights versus gradients. I personally would not advise you to weather your Ultramarines, I think they work as-is.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 14:41
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:I suppose the question is, does weathering contribute to my vehicles if none of my guys are weathered? The Land Raider is so clean and pristine would weathering make it look better? If it doesn't match the rest of your army, then no I wouldn't bother, the point of a nicely painted army is that they all look uniform and match. I was just trying to say that the techniques that make the FW paint style stand out from the normal GW style (especially nowadays) are quite simple when taken individually 
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 14:45
|
|
|
quote:Still, I see stuff done by professionals like Den Of Imagination and I'm still simply in awe of what people create. I'm unsure what to do on top of what I'm already doing to take guys up a level. Of course I don't want to put a week into each model but being able to make my heroes or special weapon guys stand out more would be great. Is getting an airbrush a requirement at some point? It's not a requirement but it makes things hella faster. You don't have to wet blend either. There's a million ways to blend, you just have to find the one that works for you. But in general what makes guys stand out beyond yours is pushing your contrast further and just practicing techniques and seeing what you like.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 15:22
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:Still, I see stuff done by professionals like Den Of Imagination and I'm still simply in awe of what people create. I'm unsure what to do on top of what I'm already doing to take guys up a level. Of course I don't want to put a week into each model but being able to make my heroes or special weapon guys stand out more would be great. Is getting an airbrush a requirement at some point? Sorry for the incoming  post but I always like hearing advice on this forum so I'll do a bit of brain dump, also I apologise if it comes across as a bit patronising it's not intended to be:The three things that I started doing that made me feel like I was improving were:  1) Highlighting, and then a second/third level of highlighting. Your Ultramarines already look pretty decent, if you wanted to make them pop you could add either 1 brighter and smaller highlight in the very centre of your existing ones. The colour of this highlight will depend on colour's you've used so far, what I often do is pick three/four colours in advance. The black on the model earlier was VMC German Grey, highlighted with Neutral Grey and then Sky Grey. The red was VMC Red, highlighted with German Orange and Pale Sand + a bit of Sky Grey. The hair was VMC Light Turquoise, Light Blue and Sky Grey. My shtick ("style" if you want to call it that) is that I always tend to mix one specific colour into every colour's highlight / layer some how. A long time ago someone told me this process has a name but I can't recall if it does or what it was (I'm not an artist). Speaking of layering: 2) Layering / (Wet) Blending A lot of people will say layer or highlight, quite often I'll use a combination of the two. The white on the model I posted earlier, I picked VMC Neutral Grey Blue Grey and Sky Grey. Painting the whole area in the darkest colour first, then working up to the lightest colour. I didn't wet blend I just used lots of very, very thin layers over the base, so thin that they barely register until you repeat the same colour over and over effectively tinting the area. Once you can't tint it any more repeat with the next lighter colour or a mixture of the two for more subtlety. Same with the skin, it was VMC Leather brown then tinted over and over with Orange + Sand multiple times then just Sand, and a tiny tint of Sky Grey (see shtick) on the nose and lower eye lids. I washed the eye sockets with Blue just to add definition, and took some of the red from the clothes and added it to the skin colour for a tint for the lips. 3) Black lining My personal favourite discovery and works brilliantly on marines due to the armour plates. This is what I think people mean when they say a model "pops", it's a really quick way of adding lots of definition to a model and making features stand out as well as separating connected colours. On marines, you'll want to use either black or black + base colour of your colour scheme, and paint a very thin line of it (I use it like a slightly thicker wash) where all the different armour plates meet, in those little etched out details on the legs, head indentations on beakies/mk iv's, chest indentations etc...  (I faintly circled a couple of areas that draw eyes when black lined) If you look at these guys I painted a few years ago you can see I black lined and painted a dark red/black mix into the recesses on those weird little leg patterns that marines have, as well as everywhere 2 separate pieces meet. On the Infinity model I used mostly black, except on the white bits (there's a cable draped in front of the tabard that was pretty impossible to spot before adding some lining, same with the white belt to the top left of the tabard) where I used a medium grey mixture. Hope that helps.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 16:13
|
|
|
I paint basically the exact same way as richyp
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 17:15
|
|
|
Thanks for the ultra high content post, RichyP! I am going to try that unified highlighting color approach you talked about.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 17:46
|
|
|
Enjoy it while you can. It's almost time for richyp to go disappear in his cocoon for another year or two. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 18:34
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Enjoy it while you can. It's almost time for richyp to go disappear in his cocoon for another year or two. Ok time to come clean on that, True E/N story about the disappearing acts. I painted pretty regularly for about 5-6 years or so, then in about 7 years ago I decided to ditch software development and take up teaching which meant lots of volunteer work to get on the teaching course and therefore virtually no free time. After about 2 years of working for free I finally got enough experience to do the course, "yay" a bit of spare time. In a few months I painted up a couple of armies (Necron/Eldar/Dark Angels I think), had about 1 month left on the teaching course, and my dad who'd been quite i'll suddenly required lots of trips across country to see a specialist, and being the only relative who's confident driving long distance I decided to quit to help out. Around the same time, my wife and I were expecting our first child. The loss of my dad in the December of 2013 was followed a few weeks later by the birth of my son, which meant no free time for another 6-9 months other than a few hours here and there. I decided to look after him full time (he had a couple of issues that required 1:1) and only recently started going to nursery one day a week, finally without me needing to be there (since Jan this year). So there you go, I have some spare time to paint now, but who knows 
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 19:41
|
|
|
Sounds overwhelming. Good luck.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 20:06
|
|
|
Sounds like a rough ride richyp but we're glad to have you back!
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 21:06
|
|
|
I was just messing with you richy, definitely didn't need to explain your absence from posting on these dumb mandolly threads! Nonetheless good to see you back.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 21:16
|
|
|
Goondolances dude. A rough ride for sure, but we're happy to have you here. No obligations obvioustly. Family first. Then man dolls.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 21:47
|
|
|
Thanks guys, wasn't after sympathy just wanted to "explain". Anyway content time, I made a makeshift photobooth out of some old cardboard box and took a few better pictures finally got my camera "almost" setup properly (black's still off a bit and faces are a bit blury), turns out it's better without Macro mode for some reason, so I've taken some non phone camera shots of my recent stuff.  Morat Agression Force + Zerat Sniper  Ariadna Perv Brigade (highlights on green look really bad now)  Nomads Reverend Healer (from post earlier)
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 23:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 14:07 |
|
|
^^^ E: nice to see more rad Infinity models. I'm kinda dreading the Nomad half of the Icestorm set - looks harder to paint than the Pan-O stuff. ^^^ Getting back into the swing of things:   If I can finish off the ORC trooper and Father Knight, I may actually manage to complete half of the starter set this year.  Squiggly Beast fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Feb 10, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 23:02
|
|
