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All he needs for the statue is to pre-order the $190 edition of the game! Good luck on the costume building, McKilligan. Can't wait to see it! Are you going to try wiring up some lighting effects for the smoldering embers?
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Feb 5, 2016 15:25
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my cat is norris posted:All he needs for the statue is to pre-order the $190 edition of the game! I think it would probably be easier just to set myself on fire. Don't think I'm going to attempt actual light-up parts this time, but it's something to consider...
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Feb 7, 2016 23:43
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It's not exactly cosplay, but I got in the Fallout mood a few weeks ago  If I do another one I'd try and get the lights in one layer, add the gel to cover, lights, gel, lights gel, until I got a more even distribution of LEDs. Also, I really want a model of the new bottles from F4 because they just look cool. I saw some Russian guy on etsy was making them bu he wanted more than I was willing to spend.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:59
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The best fabric shop in Denver is now carrying Worbla. Maybe I need to come up with something to make with it.
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Feb 10, 2016 09:28
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Thanks for the sewing advice everyone. I've looked into it a little and decided that I'll look into it more if I have time left after painting as priority one is getting the costume done. 4 weeks to go - eeeeeeek. Also: important lesson learnt. Don't accidentally PVA coat you foam before doing battle damage. It looks great but the amount of sanding needed to get things to a functional state after dremeling was insane.   I've now done about 1/2 the base coating of the painting which is good. And i got my airbrush fixed so further base coating will be way faster. I also did a test on the details colours today to check I'm happy with the shades so I can buy larger amounts and I'm pretty pleased with my choices. This is colours + shading/wash only. Should look great with a bit of extra dry-brushing over it too.  Whoever designed this costume had some serious colour issues too: purple, green, gold and silver - really? Two of these would have been plenty! I am really glad that costume painting is a lot like miniatures painting so I'm finally in some familiar territory. 
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Feb 10, 2016 10:41
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I'm going to be using EVA foam for a project, and this will be my first time working with it. What glue would be right for attaching EVA foam to acrylic? I'm guessing a two-part epoxy, but I'd rather not be wrong.
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Feb 17, 2016 20:00
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Hot glue or contact cement would be your best bets. Just make sure you rough up the acrylic with some sandpaper beforehand.
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Feb 17, 2016 23:13
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I want to put together a few simple craft foam armor pieces, but I have neither a 3D model nor a scan of my body to build one around. If I can't use pepakura, how do I go about drafting the pattern?
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Feb 18, 2016 00:38
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blastron posted:I want to put together a few simple craft foam armor pieces, but I have neither a 3D model nor a scan of my body to build one around. If I can't use pepakura, how do I go about drafting the pattern? Sounds janky but what I pretty much always do is wrap the body part in question first in saran wrap, then in painters tape. I rough out the armor piece in sharpie on the tape, cut it out, and then refine it from there out of paper and foam. PS sorry for the total cosplay silence guys but I'm on a sexy vacation in Costa Rica, I will likely have some big cosplay news when I get back though! (Looks like I'll be doing some material testing for a company professionally omg)
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Feb 18, 2016 04:06
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McPantserton posted:Sounds janky but what I pretty much always do is wrap the body part in question first in saran wrap, then in painters tape. I rough out the armor piece in sharpie on the tape, cut it out, and then refine it from there out of paper and foam. Alright, that sounds reasonable enough. I've actually just built myself a duct tape model of my torso, so I'll tape a bunch of paper to it and work things out from there. Thanks!
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Feb 18, 2016 05:56
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Has anyone played with small EL panels before? Can you have them up against your skin or do you need to have some fabric/insulating layer between them and your skin? The info online seems to be a bit mixed on this. Also only 3 weeks to go until the con but painting is coming along well. Here's an update on some actual finished pieces: My cat always does her best to be helpful. That night she kept alternating between sitting on me, standing on me and jumping around catching moths in the garage. I don't think I got too much paint on her...  Finished shoulders next to plain silver bracers for comparison on how the shoulders started out.  I also finished the neck piece. I am really pleased with how the detailing came out in terms of making it look like it has more 3D detailing than it actually does.  Bracers are almost all done too now. Just some shading to finish on the far right on: 
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Feb 18, 2016 22:01
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Err on the side of caution and have some small rubber fabric or something between you and the EL panel. I've shocked the piss out of myself trying to make a glowing kryptonite ring, because the wire wasn't entirely fastened to the panel. Granted, that was a metal ring, but 8 AA batteries can still make you rethink your life choice pretty quick.
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Feb 19, 2016 01:53
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Err on the side of caution and have some small rubber fabric or something between you and the EL panel. You could have used it for a Joker cosplay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaBh-B6F2sk
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Feb 19, 2016 02:05
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Err on the side of caution and have some small rubber fabric or something between you and the EL panel. The way to deal with the edges of EL panels is to use liquid electrical tape, and the same for bits of wire that need to be flexible. It dries as a rubber that allows your EL panels to flex. Just keep in mind that until it dries it is more than a little flammable. Follow the set and drying times on the bottle.
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Feb 19, 2016 03:36
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The Repo Man posted:The way to deal with the edges of EL panels is to use liquid electrical tape, and the same for bits of wire that need to be flexible. It dries as a rubber that allows your EL panels to flex. Just keep in mind that until it dries it is more than a little flammable. Follow the set and drying times on the bottle. So only the edges of the panel are an issue but the main flat area is ok anyway? It'd be much easier to just cover the edges than the full panel.
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Feb 19, 2016 04:17
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Dori posted:So only the edges of the panel are an issue but the main flat area is ok anyway? It'd be much easier to just cover the edges than the full panel. The entire panel should have come sandwiched in plastic. When you buy an EL panel, it will be laminated in a plastic sheet. If you have to cut the EL panel, then you must, absolutely must coat the edges you cut into. Same if you have to cut EL wire short. The cut part has to be coated in something to protect you from shock. The top and bottom of the panel don't need to be coated in anything, since it will already have a plastic layer on it. I used more liquid electrical tape here than I had too, but you can see where I had to cover the edges below. Only the outer exposed edges of the panels had to be coated to prevent shock.  (what I was making) 
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Feb 20, 2016 09:46
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Thanks Repo Man. That makes a lot of sense and is super helpful. I think given all that I'll give the EL panels a go for what I want to achieve.
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Feb 20, 2016 10:01
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Sure thing, just keep in mind the battery packs needed to run EL are pretty big. If you don't have them yet, you can get the battery pack and inverter from AdaFruit
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Feb 20, 2016 21:08
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Yeah I do still need to work out how/where to stash the extra bits but I do have a few ideas for that so hopefully it'll work out. I was thinking of getting a battery pack/inverter combo that's for sale here which uses 2 AA batteries. So it's a bit smaller but I hope it'll produce enough oomph. I don't really have time for ordering from the US and the NZ supply options are a bit more limited. Did you build in a switch to turn yours on and off or just pop a battery out to do that? It also looks like some inverters have a switch and other don't but the product info online can be pretty sparse it seems which is not helpful when dealing with products I am not very familiar with.
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Feb 22, 2016 01:06
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I've never seen or used an inverter with switches in them, I just wire my own switch into the circuit. It gives you more flexibility on where you want things placed anyway. You can get all sorts of switches or buttons to use, so you can find what works best for hiding it. I've never uses a 2AA w/ inverter, but I can't imagine it will run the panel for long. EL tends to be power hungry. All you really need to do is keep some spare batteries during the con and you should be set if it doesn't run long enough.
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Feb 22, 2016 07:10
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 Heyyy guess what arrived in the mail today! That's 100 ft of 12 gauge steel wire. I'm not sure how much chainmail I'll be able to make from that, but I'm pretty sure that's not going to be quite enough. I'll see how far this much gets me. I've already got blisters. I was ordering the steel wire blind from an online source, so had to guesstimate the gauge. Turns out this wire is decidedly thicker than the steel wire I'm used to, but it still pliant enough to be wrapped and cut by hand, it's just markedly more difficult. At any rate, this stuff is going to take forever. I plan to just spend about an hour a day, and if I'm lucky it'll only take a month or two.
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Feb 24, 2016 01:38
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I'm looking to make a Red Hood cosplay for a con in September. Right now I could buy a basic mask and paint it but I'd like to make the whole helmet. I'd like to make it out of something sturdy like plastic/resin but don't know how to start. I have plenty of space, tools and some cash I'm willing to spend on quality materials. I just don't know where to start. Assume I'm basically a beginner.
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Feb 24, 2016 21:31
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Inzombiac posted:I'm looking to make a Red Hood cosplay for a con in September. Right now I could buy a basic mask and paint it but I'd like to make the whole helmet. Which iteration of the mask are you going for? The more deadpool-esque face-shaped one, or the more opaque robotic-looking one from the Arkham games?
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Feb 25, 2016 01:53
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 This helmet. The costume will be the brown jacket variant with a red hoodie underneath. I'm not really concerned about 100% accuracy to one image/version.
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Feb 25, 2016 02:22
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I think bondo/epoxy putty might be a pretty good material - provided you can make a solid base to work off of. You could get some other firm/plastic mask to build on top of, then bondo over it. Once it hardens you can carefully sand it into the appropriate shape. Or you could build a base from scratch, maybe paper mache, then fiberglass, then bondo. Or, if you want a more forgiving / less toxic method, if you have a heat gun, some thin eva foam and a hot glue gun, you can try to make it that way, then go with a polyurethane resin over it. That would probably be lighter and more comfortable, but will require a bit more trial and error to get the shape right. Luckily Eva foam is cheap and pretty forgiving. McKilligan fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Feb 25, 2016 |
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Feb 25, 2016 05:30
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Thanks for the suggestions Are there any guides you guys like to help an idiot like me? Maybe an overview of how to get the most out of your materials? If I could, I'd like to make a cast of my (large) head and build the mask in two parts on top of it, hopefully to take out some of the guess work. Inzombiac fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Feb 25, 2016 |
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Feb 25, 2016 05:51
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Inzombiac posted:Thanks for the suggestions Maybe also look into getting it 3D printed. Might save you some time and headaches
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Feb 25, 2016 05:59
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Inzombiac posted:Thanks for the suggestions If you're looking to be in for the long haul, an alginate headcast is what you want. (It's what I want too somebody cast my head please!) If you google you can find oodles of tutorials and resources and the headcasts are reusable and super useful. What I myself use is a super creepy headform my friend did of himself using a plastic bag and water activated packing tape. He filled it with spray foam and basically mounted it on a clamp base. It's pretty useful but also Silent Hill as gently caress. Plus I had to cut it off his head, which was sincerely terrifying 
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Feb 25, 2016 06:02
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Good to know. If I spend the money to get quality materials, I will be more inclined to do more. I put together a wastelander outfit that I liked but I didn't have to do any delicate work. Just lots of hammering, bashing, riviting and strutting. Edit: Is this an expected price for EVA? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4IHXRU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456380506&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=eva+foam I already have a heat gun so this is probably my best gently caress-around option right now. Since I have so much time, I'm gonna go through a lot of tests, probably. Inzombiac fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Feb 25, 2016 |
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Feb 25, 2016 07:06
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If you have a harbor freight nearby you can get 4 packs of the tile for like 8$ or so. On top of that there's pretty much always a 20% off coupon.
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Feb 25, 2016 10:11
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Inzombiac posted:Thanks for the suggestions I'd start with an airsoft/paintball mask for the face, and then build the rest of it onto that in fiberglass.
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Feb 25, 2016 17:34
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So at my new job I have a near endless supply of scrap zote foam and plastics. What is a good costume/character that has lots of spikes and such?
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Feb 27, 2016 01:58
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oneof27 posted:So at my new job I have a near endless supply of scrap zote foam and plastics. What is a good costume/character that has lots of spikes and such? Also I'm jazzed, I'm competing in c2e2's crown championships for the 3rd year running in Arthas! Here's hoping I make a few bucks back on that motherfucker
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Feb 27, 2016 05:00
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McKilligan posted:
Wouldn't it speed it up a lot to just make a jig and cut it with a dremel? Take a wooden dowel the size of the rings you want, cut out a V shape down one side, roll the wire up along the dowel, crank on the dremel with a cutting disc and just slice down the V. Instant shitton of rings without having to slice each one by hand. Just an idea...
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Feb 27, 2016 12:27
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Since you have heavier gauge wire you probably ought to wind it with a drill or a lathe. Making mail is tough enough without it also being physically painful making the rings. If you're making small things you could get away with it but if you want to make a shirt, a drill and dremel is not going to blow out your time:cost ratio. It'll save you time too, and let you focus more on the therapeutic ring-linking. Good luck, and don't hesitate to post progress pics.
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Feb 27, 2016 16:25
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Christ, maybe I'm searching the wrong terms but Amazon only seems to have EVA in 2mm and 3/8" thicknesses. I'm looking for 6mm or so. The 12 I got in the mail is great for armor but maybe not the helmet. Also, no local stores have foam heads that aren't tiny lady heads. I'm gonna do the plastic bag/duct tape method. Inzombiac fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 28, 2016 |
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Feb 28, 2016 00:39
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Inzombiac posted:Christ, maybe I'm searching the wrong terms but Amazon only seems to have EVA in 2mm and 3/8" thicknesses. I buy from foamorder. You'll pay a bit for shipping, but it's smooth on both sides and comes in giant sheets. Plus they have 9 thicknesses to choose from.
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Feb 28, 2016 03:37
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Reformed Tomboy posted:I buy from foamorder. You'll pay a bit for shipping, but it's smooth on both sides and comes in giant sheets. Plus they have 9 thicknesses to choose from. Looks good, thanks. I get kinda stressed out because I'm so new to making things from scratch but I've started very early for that exact reason. I picked up an okay leather jacket. Any tips on making a collar stand on end? I could form a coat hanger or maybe get some thick boning but re-stiching leather sounds like a hassle.
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Feb 28, 2016 06:12
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Millinery wire may work.
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Feb 28, 2016 07:34
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Hey homies, do original costumes belong in this thread? I'm not much of a cosplayer, but boy howdy do I love costumes. I'm also unhealthily obsessed with EL-Wire.   If y'all have any questions about the trashiest way to glow, hit me up. My studio website is here: http://www.lux-operon.com Rocketfish fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 17:41
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