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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:The medical payments is what is killing that. If you can rely on your health insurance for injury coverage, and I think in this crazy obamacare era you should be able to, if you can drop that from your motorcycle insurance your premiums will drop like a rock. As someone who recently wrecked his bike and didn't have medical payments on my insurance (had comprehensive and theft, but didn't see the section for adding medical payments when I bought the policy) and had to rely on my health insurance to cover it all, I would not recommend this idea. My out of pocket payments before I hit my yearly limit was enough that I could have bought another bike with the money instead of sending it to doctors instead.
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Feb 7, 2016 06:10
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HotCanadianChick posted:As someone who recently wrecked his bike and didn't have medical payments on my insurance (had comprehensive and theft, but didn't see the section for adding medical payments when I bought the policy) and had to rely on my health insurance to cover it all, I would not recommend this idea. My out of pocket payments before I hit my yearly limit was enough that I could have bought another bike with the money instead of sending it to doctors instead. Medical is a surprisingly small amount of my insurance, so I'm keeping it. Also my insurance co-pay is like $5000 before they'll pay anything anyways.
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Feb 7, 2016 16:13
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Than you for the reminder for me to say a prayer of thanks for the NHS. Everyonce in a while I get pissed off by some feature of the NHS then I remember what it's like over there - and also that the vast majority of the current problems with the NHS are being caused by Tory cunts who are carving it up in preparation for American healthcare companies to take it over. Now if you'd join me in the liturgy: Nye Bevan, father of the NHS posted:That is why no amount of cajolery, and no attempts at ethical or social seduction, can eradicate from my heart a deep burning hatred for the Tory Party that inflicted those bitter experiences on me. So far as I am concerned they are lower than vermin. They condemned millions of first-class people to semi-starvation. Now the Tories are pouring out money in propaganda of all sorts and are hoping by this organised sustained mass suggestion to eradicate from our minds all memory of what we went through. But, I warn you young men and women, do not listen to what they are saying now. Do not listen to the seductions of Lord Woolton. He is a very good salesman. If you are selling shoddy stuff you have to be a good salesman. But I warn you they have not changed, or if they have they are slightly worse than they were.
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Feb 7, 2016 16:21
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HotCanadianChick posted:As someone who recently wrecked his bike and didn't have medical payments on my insurance (had comprehensive and theft, but didn't see the section for adding medical payments when I bought the policy) and had to rely on my health insurance to cover it all, I would not recommend this idea. My out of pocket payments before I hit my yearly limit was enough that I could have bought another bike with the money instead of sending it to doctors instead. This is why I have only enough injury coverage to cover my medical deductible and out of pocket.
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Feb 7, 2016 21:46
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One of the reasons I ride a Harley is they cost nothing to insure. This is more because no one actually rides their Harley making them look risk-free. The other reason is it has a belt and not a chain because gently caress THAT MESS.
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Feb 7, 2016 23:51
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If you want maintenance free final drive you could also get a bmw 
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Feb 7, 2016 23:56
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So, batteries are one of the many things I know little about. Need someone to voice before I drop money on a new one. 2002 Ninja 250. Been sitting since october with a charger, won't start. Won't even try. Battery reads 12.5-12.6v when off. Key in "on" position, drops to 8.5v. If I hit the starter, there is no starter noise and the neutral and oil dash lights immediately die. If i hit the brake lever, those lights die and the brake light follows shortly. Unable to check battery while hitting the starter, need some extra hands. New battery time, or this sound like a short somewhere? Just confusing with the decent resting volts and having been plugged in.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:33
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you want maintenance free final drive you could also get a Praise be to Erik
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Feb 8, 2016 00:42
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Verge posted:One of the reasons I ride a Harley is they cost nothing to insure. This is more because no one actually rides their Harley making them look risk-free.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:49
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TheNothingNew posted:So, batteries are one of the many things I know little about. Need someone to voice before I drop money on a new one. It's dead, captain  (Should be around 12.0-12.4v when everything is on)
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Feb 8, 2016 01:06
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Z3n posted:It's dead, captain Thought as much, but good to have a second opinion. Thanks.
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Feb 8, 2016 01:37
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you want maintenance free final drive you could also get a bmw At BMW's price, I'd just get a zero, yo.
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Feb 8, 2016 03:52
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Verge posted:At BMW's price, I'd just get a zero, yo. BMWs are cheaper than harleys, yo. e: Disclaimer, enough people buy Harleys and never ride them that the used market is loving great. I'm talking about new.
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Feb 8, 2016 03:57
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you want maintenance free final drive you could also get a bmw There's still fluid in those chucklefuck shafts to worry about.
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Feb 8, 2016 05:13
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You'd think. Didn't someone here have a horror story of opening one up at first service to find it completely dry?
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Feb 8, 2016 08:20
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Re: insurance chat. I recently called my Allstate agent and got a quote for about double what other companies were offering. I couldn't figure out why my company was so much more expensive. I switched to them because Progressive was raping me and Allstate would fully cover both my bikes for about what half the premium of just ONE bike on Progressive. Turns out, I was asking for a quote for just the one vehicle, but my agent was quoting me for the whole policy; car and 2 bikes. Oh well, I already switched to Geico. I told them I'd see them in 6 months.
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Feb 8, 2016 14:32
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:So Fishvilla, maybe you can give some insight here. Is there a best (most efficient, smartest, realistic, I don't know) way to set up an insurance plan? Like at what point on each of the Bodily Injury and Liability, Un/Underinsured Motorist, etc options are you selecting unnecessarily high coverage? Is there a "best" choice for each coverage and option? Good questions. I can't answer them specifcally for you without knowing a ton of background and personal information about your life and financial situation, but I'll let you know what I'm considering while evaluating these coverage options. A few of the factors that are going to drastically change your answers: - What state you live in (Is it a no-fault, tort, or partial fault state? How does it treat hit-and-run accidents?) - Your personal financial situation (Are you the heir to the 'Littlefinger' fortune? Can you afford to pay a higher deductible? If you're in a tort state are people going to go after your deep pockets?) - Are you a raging knucklehead? Are you someone who likes to accelerate pretty strong out of the corners on dark, icy nights, and has a chance of pushing him/herself to the limits of riding? Uninsured/Underinsured coverage: Right away the UM/UIM coverage sticks out to me as something that is *possibly* being over purchased there. Why? Because depending on your state, it might only be covering you in a very narrow set of circumstances. Below is a good article/explanation of it that is slanted towards selling the coverage to you. https://www.esurance.com/info/car/are-uninsured-and-underinsured-motorist-coverages-necessary It could be that the UM/UIM coverage is really only providing you with 'lost wages' and 'pain and suffering' coverage in the event of an accident (depending on your state, your current health insurance, and the scenarios of the actual collision/accident). Read the e-surance article and it should help you get a better feel for whether or not you have a large exposure against uninsured/underinsured motorists. Lastly, make sure you know how UM/UIM interacts with 'Hit and Run' accidents. It varies by state. Medical Payments: How is your health insurance? What's your health insurance deductible? There's going to be an overlap here in coverage. I'd make sure you know what your primary health coverage is going to cover in case of an accident, and only buy Med Payments up to the deductible for that plus whatever co-pays you are concerned about. Keep in mind specialist co-pays can easily be $50-$200 depending on the plans, and that's not even getting into the realm of coinsurance. You get in an accident. You have $3k in health care deductible before that coverage kicks in. Your Medical Payments will cover that amount. Additionally, as you go to see movement specialists, PT, OT, etc you'll have co-pays and possibly coinsurance, and Med payments will cover those copays. I'm assuming you do NOT live in a no-fault state, btw. If you do, this all gets extra complicated and funny. Comp/Collision deductibles: How is your savings account? Could you afford to pay $500 to replace your bike in a worst case scenario? Do you have a good 6-month expense buffer in your savings? If so, then these deductibles might be low. However, if you work in an industry where your pay varies wildly throughout the year (sales, hospitality/tourism, etc) then maybe it's worth keeping these lower in case tragedy strikes during a slow month. It'll totally depend on your financial sitaution. Also, are you going to really submit a $400 claim to your motorcycle insurance? Personally, I wouldn't. I'll just do the repair myself and get it running. Cracked fairing? I'm not paying higher rates for that. I'm just going to ride it until I drop it again (in 300 miles). Insurers jack up rates at these lower deductibles because they'll get pestered with the cost and expenses of small dinky claims. Roadside assistance: Watch for duplicate coverage here. Are you a paid member of the AMA? AAA? You might already have roadside assistance covered. If so, does that service have towing? Just make sure you've checked through your other insurance/club memberships to see if you're double-buying here. This is a super quick and dirty overview of a few things that stick out to me. It should absolutely be tailored to your individual scenario, and this shouldn't be taken as direct advice on which limits and coverages to purchase. Rather, it's just raising a few questions that you should answer for yourself.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:00
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Renaissance Robot posted:You'd think. Didn't someone here have a horror story of opening one up at first service to find it completely dry? As it's only two bevel gears I don't think that'd actually cause too much damage, certainly not in the 600 miles or so to first service. Probably make it slower and noisier but if shaft drive owners noticed things like that they wouldn't own bikes with shaft drives.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:09
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clutchpuck posted:There's still fluid in those chucklefuck shafts to worry about. You say that as if changing the lube in the shaft drive assembly isn't one of the least time consuming and awkward things to deal with on a BMW bike.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:17
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Knowing bmw I'm sure that procedure still reads "step 1: remove the headlight"
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Feb 9, 2016 07:35
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No, it's "step 1: remove fuel tank" Fuel tanks, how quaint.
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Feb 9, 2016 15:54
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For replacing my fuel gauge with an original unit it looks like I'm going to have to buy an entire cluster off a broken bike, because nobody's parting them out. It's not much more money, but it'll be a nuisance having a fat hunk of plastic lying around. That's not really a question, I just want to know if there's any alternatives that I might be overlooking on account of being drugged up and tired, before I drop £30 on something I maybe don't need.
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Feb 9, 2016 22:44
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Nope that's pretty standard for repairing parts like that. I'd just swap the cluster though.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:27
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I dunno what you guys are talking about with driveshafts, BMW driveshafts haven't had "fluid" in them for a couple decades. They run superior german greases in them now.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:58
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I'm pretty certain that millenial oilheads run 80W90 GL-5 in the shaft.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:23
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Renaissance Robot posted:That's not really a question, I just want to know if there's any alternatives that I might be overlooking on account of being drugged up and tired, before I drop £30 on something I maybe don't need. Use your trip odometer and your reserve setting like a real man. Or do like I do, and replace your broken trip odometer with a grease pencil, the speedometer glass, and mental math. I think this makes me some kind of ubermensch.
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Feb 10, 2016 01:00
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Sagebrush posted:Use your trip odometer and your reserve setting like a real man. 
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Feb 10, 2016 01:03
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Sagebrush posted:Use your trip odometer and your reserve setting like a real man. I'm already doing that and it blows. Anyway I can't not fix broken poo poo, see also the replacement centre stand I finally got around to buying for my 125 that I'm selling next month.
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Feb 10, 2016 01:17
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Sagebrush posted:Use your trip odometer and your reserve setting like a real man. Or just knock on the tank.
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Feb 10, 2016 14:40
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Fishvilla posted:insurance poo poo Hey, thanks a lot for this stuff. I'm re-evaluating my coverage based on it. I've never thought about setting up the medical payments part to specifically cover my regular health ins copay and out of pocket. I just switched to an HSA, so that might change things. It's cheap for me to just take pretty high medical payments, though, so that's what I did for my current bike insurance. Great stuff, though, thanks again.
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Feb 11, 2016 23:22
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Hi guys, I have a question.My girlfriend has a 2005 honda metropolitan scooter tht has been sitting idle for about a year and a half. I am having touble getting the little fella started. I have drained the gas and put in fresh gas. sucked out all the old gas in the fuel line to the carb. New battery. It will run for a few seconds if i pull the spark plug and sprits a bit of starting fluid in there, same with the top cap cover/needle valve thing on the carb. Do I need to pull the whole carb off? it looks like a pain in the rear end and from what i can see where the needle is it looks nice and clean. Anything I am over looking? Thanks in advance.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:28
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Is it dying at idle? Can you keep it going with the throttle? If you can, try using some seafoam in the tank and just run it as best you can up and down your block or alley or whatever.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:34
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Fishvilla posted:Insurance helpfulness. I'm also looking at insurance stuff. The local agent who was getting me some quotes said I shouldn't bother with collision on my bike since most bikes get totaled anyway. Is this a normal suggestion?
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Feb 12, 2016 01:40
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clutchpuck posted:Is it dying at idle? Can you keep it going with the throttle? If you can, try using some seafoam in the tank and just run it as best you can up and down your block or alley or whatever. I have tried giving it more throttle but it just dies even sooner. I cant get it to run more than a few seconds and that is with engine starting fluid. so I am guessing the carb is it get any gas? It wont even sputter unless i squirt something in the carb or in the cylinder.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:44
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Carb is clogged, you need to pull and clean it.
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Feb 12, 2016 02:20
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"clean" When I inherited a lovely chinese scooter I didn't want to put to much work into it so I just took off the body bits above the carb and sprayed the crap out of everything I could reach with carb cleaner, that was enough to keep it running for the year before I handed it off to someone else.
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Feb 12, 2016 03:58
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The bad gas / varnish clogs the areas where the fuel goes so you have to get to those areas if you want to clean the carbs. Spraying random carb cleaner around is a good way to destroy a the rubber bits in the carbs.
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Feb 12, 2016 06:30
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On the flip side, a lot of those chineese scooters use stupid break off screws or rivets or whatever bullshit so the carb can't be disassembled. glhf trying to clean that. At that point you're better off just ordering a replacement and swapping it. Cleaning the Honda carb is a fairly trivial task depending on how bad it is. There's probably a bunch of youtube videos on how to do it the right way.
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Feb 12, 2016 16:35
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Well gently caress, bike wouldn't start this morning. lovely cell phone video, not sure how loud it is: https://youtu.be/xL3AKkcp4GY Thoughts?
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Feb 12, 2016 18:38
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Water in the gas tank?
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Feb 12, 2016 19:16
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