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tater_salad posted:10 inches is usually enough to satisfy anyone. I can't think of any time I needed more than my 10 inch But enough about your dildo.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:16
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:09 |
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  I've got two issues with the bathroom sinks, I think they're related, but I'm not sure. I have two sinks in the bathroom. Each has its own trap and each trap drains to a double wye. It's my understanding that having two traps is not good because draining one side can siphon water from the trap of the other. Even if that doesn't happen, the partial siphoning can slow down the flow of water to the main drain pipe causing clogs. I've been having problems with the latter of those two. The traps aren't full of hair or other debris, although my wife's side usually has hair packed around the stopper. I do notice that I can pull a lot of mud/dirt looking junk from the traps and the double wye itself when I take everything apart. I'd like to do this the right way, but I'm not sure what I need to do. First, if both sinks connect to a single trap, I'll need to plug one side of the double wye. Can I put a pvc cap over the trap adapter or should I try to get the trap adapter out and put a plug directly into the double wye? Second, the p-trap kits I've seen don't have a waste arm (the thing that would go from one tailpiece over to a tee fitting on the other tailpiece) they just have the slip-jointed j-bend and a wall tube with a flange at the bent end. When I search for "waste arm" they are not threaded either, so I don't know how it would connect to the tailpiece. Is there a part I'm missing here? Okay, assuming I can get that part working, is there a good way to snake the drain pipe behind the sink? From what I can see downstairs, the double wye connects to some galvanized pipe that hits a 90* elbow right away, then goes to maybe 6 feet of pipe to a 4" cast iron vent stack. There's no other venting until it hits that larger pipe. I'm fairly sure the clogs are due to that elbow and/or lack of venting, but the problems are sort of intermittent. Would that dirt/mud looking stuff (it's not fecal matter and it doesn't really look like rust) be corrosion from the pipes?
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Feb 10, 2016 00:50
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Well, gently caress, I already picked up the 10" basin wrench, but I got a good deal on it so meh. I'll get an adjustable one down the road. 
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Feb 10, 2016 07:16
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SopWATh posted:
I haven't seen that fitting but that may be common to the area you live in. It has a clean out in the center of it so it should be fine. If the vent was plugged from that fixture it could suck the trap dry. So what is the problem exactly? Do both sinks drain slowly or does only one? If you plan on snaking it you can use that clean out between both sinks. Depending on the cable you can use either a 1/4 or 3/8 cable. I'd lean more towards the 3/8th so you don't kink the cable.
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Feb 10, 2016 07:23
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I haven't seen that fitting but that may be common to the area you live in. It has a clean out in the center of it so it should be fine. If the vent was plugged from that fixture it could suck the trap dry. Both sinks drain slowly, filling one sink causes water to come up into the other. I've cleaned the traps on both sinks, they weren't 100% clear, but I'd say they had 90% of their diameter open to water so I don't think the clog is there. I've got two issues: 1) I can't get the cleanout plug to move. I don't have a pipe wrench, but I couldn't get it to move with a crescent wrench.(I don't have a proper combination wrench that's big enough as the square is 1 1/16") A pipe wrench would be longer I suppose. 2) Not shown, there's maybe 6" of galvanized pipe behind the black iron double wye, then there's a 90-degree elbow to get the drain downstairs. I've been able to get a snake through a side of the double wye back to that elbow, but I can't get anything past that. There's a cleanout plug downstairs, but that also does not move. (again, I don't have a pipe wrench to really pull on it)
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Feb 10, 2016 16:58
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You just need a medium sized pair of channel locks to get that plug off.
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Feb 10, 2016 19:21
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SopWATh posted:Both sinks drain slowly, filling one sink causes water to come up into the other. I've cleaned the traps on both sinks, they weren't 100% clear, but I'd say they had 90% of their diameter open to water so I don't think the clog is there. You've got a clog in the drain line between that double wye and the stack. You will need to get that plug off and snake it directly. Have you tried a cheater bar yet? You could also try tapping the end of the wrench with a hammer. Regardless, that is a brass plug. You might twist the center out of the plug before it will unscrew. If that happens, then you will need to use a hammer and cold chisel to get the plug pieces out of the threads on the clean out. Nice hardware by the way. That double threaded tee is pretty unique. I've never seen anything like that before.
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Feb 10, 2016 22:00
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SopWATh posted:Both sinks drain slowly, filling one sink causes water to come up into the other. I've cleaned the traps on both sinks, they weren't 100% clear, but I'd say they had 90% of their diameter open to water so I don't think the clog is there. Heat the fitting with a torch to get it to just expand slightly while not heating the plug if possible. Then put a wrench to the plug to remove it. I do it on old clean out plugs.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:12
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I for annoyed with a pop up drain accumulating hair and gunk and replaced it with a strainer-type. See picture. With the pop up drain, water drained effortlessly. The new setup is giving me some weird bullshit. For the first 15 seconds, the water drains like it supposed to. Then it starts to back up. If I turn the water off, it'll drain a but, then stop. The water will stay in the sink until I force it to move, which can be accomplished just by stirring it. Then it drains out quickly. Note, that if I flick the faucet back on, the rush of water will stir the puddle and it will also drain at a normal pace. My morning routine is pretty much "water on, water off, water on, water off, done". It's ridiculously annoying. Does anyone know why? All plumbing in the cabinet has been disassembled and cleaned out.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:35
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I have a 2 handle moen kitchen faucet the hot side is only making a trickle. When I open it up what am I looking for to fix /replace ? It's newer but the po of the house didn't have the receipt in the pile of things they left
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Feb 11, 2016 13:24
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tater_salad posted:I have a 2 handle moen kitchen faucet the hot side is only making a trickle. I literally just fixed this problem yesterday with the exact same faucet.  If it's the same problem I was having, then the cartridge(valve) in that handle needs replacing. You'll need a Moen 2 handle faucet cartridge, or "Moen 1224" if you're shopping online. Before buying one, I'd take out your old cartridge just to make sure that's the right one. Lucky for you, I still have the instructions that covers all Moen faucet models!   edit: And the online instructions that I just found! If the white thing you pulled out looks like this, then go ahead and pick up a Moen 2 handle cartridge (#1224, bring the old one with you to be sure). Side note: If you don't feel like yanking out the white cartridge with pliers, you can do what I did and turn your hot water supply back on so the cartridge launches itself a foot into the air and floods your kitchen.  It sounds like you've ruled out your hot water line being blocked, but if you need a rundown on how to take that off we can help (youtube's got some good poo poo on this too). mom and dad fight a lot fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 18:59
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Yeah no its def the cartridge, I didn't realize that the dual handle faucets had cartridges yeah the hot water line is fine and sprays just fine.. looks like I'll head to lowedepot and get one on sat when I get back.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:53
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Nitrox posted:I for annoyed with a pop up drain accumulating hair and gunk and replaced it with a strainer-type. See picture. I hate those strainer drains. They always drain slow and never really work that well. Also when they get clogged you have to disassemble the p trap to clean them from below. I'd put a pop up drain back in. Is the p trap 1 1/4 or 1 1/2? .
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Feb 12, 2016 02:38
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I hate those strainer drains. They always drain slow and never really work that well. Also when they get clogged you have to disassemble the p trap to clean them from below.
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Feb 12, 2016 03:14
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tater_salad posted:I have a 2 handle moen kitchen faucet the hot side is only making a trickle. For the record, are the stop valves in the cabinet underneath open all the way?
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Feb 12, 2016 07:23
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kid sinister posted:For the record, are the stop valves in the cabinet underneath open all the way? Yes they are.. I even pulled the supply line hose off and opened the valve to make sure it wasn't a supply problem.
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Feb 12, 2016 13:26
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Nitrox posted:I for annoyed with a pop up drain accumulating hair and gunk and replaced it with a strainer-type. See picture. Yes. I have exactly the same drain that I installed in an IKEA sink for exactly the same reason. The problem is that these don't have any vent holes to break vacuum. You probably noticed when you took the old drain/tailpiece out that the waste/overflow drains into the area between the sink basin and the underside of the spud (the bulge under the sink basin) where you spin on the rubbber bushing & nut to tighten down the tee, and that your original pop-up tailpiece had holes in it to permit overflow water to drain into the tailpiece. You will further notice that these strainer tees do not have these holes. I mitigated this problem by taking a 1/2" drill bit & drilling a hole in the side of the tee about 1/4" below the drain.  If you can make it bigger, do so. Just make sure the hole is within the confines of the spud. Mine still occassionally backs up at first, but then realizes the error of its ways and drains itself out. Were I less lazy I'd pull the thing out & drill another hole in it. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 14:02
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Weil McClain Gold Oil boiler, ~19 years old, had a small drip starting a few months ago and it recently got worse. There's a small hairline crack at the top of the wet part.  I can't afford to replace it and won't be able to anytime soon. Is there and hope of repairing it myself or having someone repair it? edit: After looking it up, I spent half an hour sanding it down to the bare metal, cleaned it, and put JB Weld on it. It's setting and appears to have wicked into the crack a little bit, so hopefully it will hold. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Feb 21, 2016 |
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Feb 20, 2016 23:11
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GWBBQ posted:Weil McClain Gold Oil boiler, ~19 years old, had a small drip starting a few months ago and it recently got worse. There's a small hairline crack at the top of the wet part. It could be welded but you'd have to get someone who is certified to weld pressure vessels. It would me pretty expensive I imagine. Most likely replacing would be the best option. It's a shame it's not just the gasket it's leaking but it really looks like the metal has pit enough to leak. I wonder if you could just replace the door itself? Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 02:24
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It could be welded but you'd have to get someone who is certified to weld pressure vessels. It would me pretty expensive I imagine. Most likely replacing would be the best option. It's a shame it's not just the gasket it's leaking but it really looks like the metal has pit enough to leak.
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Feb 22, 2016 06:04
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PainterofCrap posted:Yes.
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Feb 22, 2016 07:24
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Our shower drain (in a house into which we recently moved) has been running slowly so today I took the grate off and pulled out a nice size hair clog. The clog was twisted around a roughly eight inch flexible plastic tube, which was sitting vertically in the trap, with half of it sticking out above the water line. I attached a photo of the mess, the gunk-half of the tube was the part sticking out. Anyways, is there a reason there would've been a length of plastic tube sitting in the trap like that? Or is it just construction debris? More generally, is there anything we can do to avoid such clogs in the future? Or do we just have to snake it every few years?
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Feb 22, 2016 22:03
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I could be mistaken here but isn't that part of the filter so that all that gunk gets trapped where you can handily reach it instead of down the pipe where you can't?
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Feb 22, 2016 22:55
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There was nothing else in the drain pipe, nothing on the backside of the grate, and there was little resistance when I pulled the tube out. I'd be happy to replace whatever it was if it makes cleaning the drain out easier in the future, but I'm not sure what it could be.
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Feb 22, 2016 23:25
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I'm purchasing a home with a septic system, and the inspection of the septic system found a few things I'd like to ask you guys for thoughts on: It had no issues dispersing about 3-4hrs of constant running water, but did have some red flags: - No visible scum layer. Does this mean it's definitely a broken baffle? Something else? I know we were pushing a LOT of water through it for the well inspection/home inspection before they even started to dig up the tank - would this disturb the scum layer? - Roots in the inlet pipe Obviously this needs to be dealt with. Does this mean I'm 100% replacing the inlet pipe, or can I chop these out and see what happens? - Root infiltration in the drain-field Obviously this needs to be addressed; the inspector seemed to think a jetting would take care of this. The first two are the bigger question marks. My wife and I have set aside some money to deal with this, but if its going to be a $20k job instead of a few thousand, it may change the picture.
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Feb 23, 2016 15:36
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ExcessBLarg! posted:There was nothing else in the drain pipe, nothing on the backside of the grate, and there was little resistance when I pulled the tube out. I'd be happy to replace whatever it was if it makes cleaning the drain out easier in the future, but I'm not sure what it could be. Yeah all things considered that sounds a lot like that tube was never meant to be there.
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Feb 23, 2016 16:06
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Walked posted:I'm purchasing a home with a septic system, and the inspection of the septic system found a few things I'd like to ask you guys for thoughts on: The scum layer is made mostly from oil, fat and grease. If you don't have a scum layer, that means that either A. your tank has been pumped recently, B. the previous owner never, ever dumped anything oily down their drains, or C. your outlet baffle is indeed broken and all that scum flushed out into the leech field. A is easy to check for if your tank is completely buried, because then the dirt would need to be dug up to even open the tank. You would have to look inside the tank for C. If the baffle is there and working, then it would have to be one of the other two. As for your roots question, that depends on the situation. Say, all the trees and bushes in that area were cut down, then just removing the roots should be fine, for a few decades at least. Leech fields are large, so roots penetrating only one portion of the system won't affect it majorly. The inlet pipe is another story. That is only one pipe, so any blockages there are a bigger problem. I would recommend replacing that one if it is blocked.
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Feb 24, 2016 00:24
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ExcessBLarg! posted:There was nothing else in the drain pipe, nothing on the backside of the grate, and there was little resistance when I pulled the tube out. I'd be happy to replace whatever it was if it makes cleaning the drain out easier in the future, but I'm not sure what it could be. Are you sure it's not part of the trap? There are alternative trap designs that look something like that. GIS for "shower trap" and see if anything looks familiar.
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Feb 24, 2016 16:04
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If you mean one of the low profile traps, no it's not one of those. I didn't see anything else on the GIS result page that looked like it either--thanks for the idea though.
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Feb 24, 2016 19:51
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ExcessBLarg! posted:If you mean one of the low profile traps, no it's not one of those. I didn't see anything else on the GIS result page that looked like it either--thanks for the idea though. It looks like a piece of pex was dropped down the drain and never removed till now.
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Feb 26, 2016 07:41
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Can I buy just the backing plate for this or do I need a whole new drain assembly? Plate is pushed in and the drain lever kept sliding back up becsuse it's not in the right spot.
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Feb 27, 2016 15:34
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tater_salad posted:Can I buy just the backing plate for this or do I need a whole new drain assembly? Plate is pushed in and the drain lever kept sliding back up becsuse it's not in the right spot. First off, they're called the "overflow plate" and "trip lever". Second, you may just need to remove the stopper assembly and adjust it a little. What do you mean by "pushed in"? Could you post a picture?
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Feb 27, 2016 19:10
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The overflow plate is smushed like someone over tightened the screws, so the trip lever moves back up after awhile.. if I pull the lever out it will stay there and work for a bit.. but then if it slips back into the hole it's back to sliding up again.
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Feb 27, 2016 20:47
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tater_salad posted:The overflow plate is smushed like someone over tightened the screws, so the trip lever moves back up after awhile.. if I pull the lever out it will stay there and work for a bit.. but then if it slips back into the hole it's back to sliding up again. Well, take that plate off and pull that whole assembly up and out that hole. Somehow, I bet you can adjust the rod length to make it work properly. If you really have to replace it, try Watco. They make all kinds of tub drain parts, including for older tubs with weird sizes. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Feb 28, 2016 |
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Feb 28, 2016 02:21
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Installed a new toilet recently and it slightly rocks. I've tightened the bolts down and want to know if this a severe problem cuz it still shifts. Is this a foundation problem or can I shim this thing till its stable? Any opinions or help? Thanks.
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Mar 2, 2016 19:56
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Do they even make standard height toilets anymore? I want to take advantage of these water saving rebates, but it seems everything is tall now.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:41
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FogHelmut posted:Do they even make standard height toilets anymore? I want to take advantage of these water saving rebates, but it seems everything is tall now.
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Mar 3, 2016 00:01
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oldpainless posted:Installed a new toilet recently and it slightly rocks. I've tightened the bolts down and want to know if this a severe problem cuz it still shifts. Is this a foundation problem or can I shim this thing till its stable? Any opinions or help? Thanks. Yep just shim it. They make standard height and ADA height toilets, just the ADA ones are getting more popular. We have one and I am not a big fan of the height. Might have to invest in one of those rainbow unicorn poop aid devices.
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Mar 3, 2016 00:27
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sirr0bin posted:Yep just shim it. Or just buy a $2 kick stool.
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Mar 3, 2016 01:34
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:09 |
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Or just lean forward when you poop.
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Mar 3, 2016 06:00
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