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That might be really old advice from when they used DC motors instead of steppers.
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Feb 11, 2016 07:24
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More torque required, more power burned, more hotter
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Feb 11, 2016 07:36
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Are people ok with me making GBS threads up the thread with a build log of my rostock?
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Feb 11, 2016 08:07
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ante posted:More torque required, more power burned, more hotter
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Feb 11, 2016 08:10
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Michymech posted:Are people ok with me making GBS threads up the thread with a build log of my rostock? No don't post things about 3d printers in the 3d printing thread
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Feb 11, 2016 08:31
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ante posted:More torque required, more power burned, more hotter Not for steppers.
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Feb 11, 2016 10:40
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insta posted:No don't post things about 3d printers in the 3d printing thread Well too bad your getting it So a nice big package arrived and inside was  3 panels of wood that had been laser cut into the follow and 3 columns for the delta to run on and to hold the top  A collection of electrical components nuts and bolts and the heated bed + base, its got a whopping 10.5' diameter x 15' high print area So first step is to paint the edges of the pannels as black and black looked a little boring and it helps with blocking the burnt wood smell   Once I have the whole thing assembled I'll put the effort into taking proper photos so the color can correctly be shown  After painting comes peeling off the protective cover they use when laser cutting, also makes it easy to paint the edges what ever you want  There much better  So the power supply for a 3rd edition rostock max v2 is a 450w $25 usd computer PSU and coming from someone who has a Seasonic 1000w platinum power supply in his PC it does not fill me with much confidence but it will do for the time being before i go to a 24V heated bed setup  And this is were I am up too, I'm waiting for the stepper motor dampeners and the E3D V6 + mount to arrive so should be more to come once they get here 
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Feb 11, 2016 14:34
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ante posted:More torque required, more power burned, more hotter Other people have already corrected this, but if it helps, I guess maybe think of a stepper holding still as being at stall torque, which inherently means maximum current draw. It's not really a great description, but it'll do for the task of "imagining relative current draw."
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Feb 11, 2016 15:15
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Michymech posted:So the power supply for a 3rd edition rostock max v2 is a 450w $25 usd computer PSU and coming from someone who has a Seasonic 1000w platinum power supply in his PC it does not fill me with much confidence but it will do for the time being before i go to a 24V heated bed setup Just so you know, I ordered mine just before they switched over to the new power supplies, so I'm running that same one. It works okay, it's not so bad. It'd be nice if my bed could get up to ABS temps a little faster, but it's still able to do it, even in my sometimes-frigid unheated basement. In any event, the build is a whole lot of fun, enjoy!
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Feb 11, 2016 15:18
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pleeeeeeeeeeeease tell me you're installing the NEMA17 dampers http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-Nema-17...QgAAOSw~gRV1mV7 Holy gently caress its the one mod I wish I'd really done on my Rostock Max. edit: disregard assembly instructions and double up the wiring to the heated bed or go get yourself some solid-core 16ga wire from the hardware store. DO NOT tin the ends of any wires before clamping in the screw mounts. edit2: mod #1 before you actually print anything is to use the hotend itself as a Z-probe and run OpenDACT against an aluminum-foil covered bed for hella accurate calibration. insta fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 16:34
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I didn't install them but I gotta say, the noise doesn't bother me. On the other hand, my house is a split level and the printer's in the basement, so that's like, a couple doors and three half-flights of stairs and a bunch of turns away from me. Plus it's like post-prog-techno-abstract-chiptunes music, you get used to it and after a while, you'll be laying there in bed trying to fall asleep and the printer won't even be running but you'll hear that "music" and it never stops it just keeps keeps going and
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Feb 11, 2016 17:02
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Bad Munki posted:I didn't install them but I gotta say, the noise doesn't bother me. On the other hand, my house is a split level and the printer's in the basement, so that's like, a couple doors and three half-flights of stairs and a bunch of turns away from me. Wait until the magic wears off. Then it's just loud.
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Feb 11, 2016 17:14
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Not from here it's not! 
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Feb 11, 2016 17:16
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Bad Munki posted:I didn't install them but I gotta say, the noise doesn't bother me. On the other hand, my house is a split level and the printer's in the basement, so that's like, a couple doors and three half-flights of stairs and a bunch of turns away from me. I'm always sad when I hear other people's printers and they sound good like this. Mine makes some electronicish noises, but it's mostly swamped by the grindingesque noises it also makes.
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Feb 11, 2016 18:13
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I'm thinking about releasing an album.
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Feb 11, 2016 18:22
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Michymech seriously ignore Bad Munki and get the $15 dampers.
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Feb 11, 2016 18:43
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insta posted:Michymech seriously ignore Bad Munki and get the $15 dampers. Get the dampers
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Feb 11, 2016 18:51
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Oh yeah that's fair, do it, I'm still thinking about doing it too, it's just...it's not SO bad that you'll hear it from down the street or whatever. Like I seriously expected something really awful based on all the hand-wringing. So yeah, get the dampers.
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Feb 11, 2016 19:05
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On a side note, the 4-pack of dampers was linked, but for the Rostock, the 3-pack is what you want, since I'm pretty sure you shouldn't put one on the extruder: 3-pack, same seller, a few bucks less
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Feb 11, 2016 21:02
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Geirskogul posted:Get the dampers Get the dampers
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Feb 11, 2016 21:10
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insta posted:pleeeeeeeeeeeease tell me you're installing the NEMA17 dampers Ha yes i have dampers coming after seeing a youtube video the difference is amazing  And why am i doubling up or getting 16g wire? Is your rostock a v2 like mine?
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Feb 11, 2016 21:24
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Yeah I have a V2. I just didn't understand why the stock instructions say to pump the 10-12A for the bed through a single set of stranded 18ga wires.
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Feb 11, 2016 21:35
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insta posted:Yeah I have a V2. As long as it's actual 18ga wire, instead of the stuff that's like 2-3 conductors and a ton of insulation, it's fine. Have some numbers! If you're using, say, 1 ft (so 2ft back and forth) and your bed current is 12A. The resistance would work out to ~ .012ohm, a voltage drop of ~.15V, and a power dissipated over the length of 1.8W. Not exactly a great figure, but perfectly fine. For what it's worth, bumping it up to 12ga would cut your power dissipation to .5w. 24v supplies are super nice though. If you have the confidence you've secured your thermistor right, you can heat your bed up extremely quickly. Though if it breaks loose you can destroy your bed extremely quickly instead. Or you can play it safe and half the current instead, but in my opinion they're too much hassle to deal with if that's all you're doing.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:07
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The instructions have you take a piece of 4-conductor 18 gauge wire and pull 2 of the conductors out and hook the bed up with what's left. That's what I don't get.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:11
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insta posted:The instructions have you take a piece of 4-conductor 18 gauge wire and pull 2 of the conductors out and hook the bed up with what's left. That's what I don't get. Ease of soldering? At first I thought it might be saving the other 2 bits for something else, but I just looked at the instructions, and it says you can just discard them. There doesn't seem to be a good reason.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:38
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Anyone have some experience building a Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3 (http://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit)? What I read online is that it's a pretty good kit for its price (300$) but instructions are not very clear and some items might be forgotten in the kit... What other sub 300$ options do I have for a robust printer kit? Aliexpress has plenty, but build quality might be something different...
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Feb 12, 2016 14:11
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Somewhat related, Aldi australia are going to be selling a $500AU 3d printer soon which appears to be an australian rebadged chinese clone of the i3 called the Cocoon Create. It doesn't look like a terrible deal given the price, plus the returns policy at Aldi is pretty good so it shouldn't be difficult to get it swapped or get my money back if it turns out to be a dud. Are there any standout reasons to not pick one up when they become available?
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Feb 12, 2016 15:08
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JasH posted:Anyone have some experience building a Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3 (http://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit)? For $349 you can get one 99% assembled from Monoprice. I'm just a sample size of 1 but I'm much happier with that $349 printer than I am with the $699 Robo 3D R1.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:40
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Yea, I've got the monoprice one and I like it.
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Feb 12, 2016 18:17
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Jumped on the monoprice one after stupid sexy flanders posted about his, and yeah its a good machine.
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Feb 13, 2016 07:47
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Wade Wilson posted:For $349 you can get one 99% assembled from Monoprice. Ouch, 131$ shipping cost to Europe; that's a bit too much...
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Feb 13, 2016 09:14
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So, since white pla is a bitch to dial in, I'm assuming black is also a bitch to get calibrated correctly? Looking to order some more filament and just trying to figure out which one to go with. Any amazon suggestions? Loves me some prime shipping.
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Feb 13, 2016 13:19
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JasH posted:Ouch, 131$ shipping cost to Europe; that's a bit too much... Yeah it's a shitter. I have a guy locally who needs a good beginner machine and the monoprice would be perfect if you could actually purchase it within the UK. Through eBay the quote is lower but I'm sure it will shoot up as soon as you actually try and order it.
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Feb 13, 2016 15:15
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Any of you goons picked up the bed size upgrade kit from Printrbot for the Simple Metal? I'm considering it but I am not sure. I have seen anything from anyone that has installed it.
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Feb 14, 2016 06:32
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Hey all, Just found out this thread is a thing. I have been 3d printings for the past two years now. The first printer I got was the M3d from the kickstarter. It worked well for about two months then it constantly poo poo the bed. I was also constantly having to split models up with 3d editing to make it actually fit the bed. But I loved making something in my 3d modeling programs and then printing out what I wanted on demand. I then bought a MakerFarm Prusa 8" i3v. I added a e3d v6 lite instead of the included default hothead. It was an undertaking to put it all together but I'm glad I did; I feel I can fix any part on the machine now and that is a powerful feeling. Way more than the M3D where they keep the nozzle and poo poo in one mysterious package. Phone holders, light switches, drawer guides, even some grips for my miniature painting. Tons of stuff I printed for myself and my friends. It's such a great feeling printing out a phone dock that is supported by the cd slot in a car, finding it was slightly too small, and then re-editing it to fit. Recently, I bought a Pi to load Octoprint and it's refreshing not having to pass the gcode through the sd cards. I still don't trust cura engine though and still use slic3r. Earlier in the thread people were saying they had difficulties with printing metal-like PLA and having an easier time with red transparent. I actually have the inverse problem where I could print the silver stuff like no other but the red transparent stuff just spurts out haphardley. Since I really did not want to clean my e3d lite, because I could imagine the mess inside due to how it's built, I replaced it with a real e3d v6 and HOLY poo poo, it prints so smoothly and so fast even with a .40 nozzle compared to the lite. The first layer was always my big worry with the lite but there is 0 issues now with the regular print head. My followup question is I want to do an auto-level machine but there are so many types out there. If anyone has implemented the level device, which version and do you think it's the best one out there?
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Feb 14, 2016 18:45
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so i had a bit of stuck filament and went to disassemble the extruder assembly on my wanhao i3 (actually the mono price variant but its all the same poo poo) and hosed up, i removed the screws holding the stepper motor together instead of the screws holding it in place disassembling a stepper basically ruins it right? because since then i have been unable to print, it looks like nothing is putting out enough filament, which I'm guessing is because the motor is no longer working properly to feed it into the extruder anyone know what motor to use as a replacement? its a NEMA 17 but Im unsure as to the other characteristics of it, it has "c17hd40102-01n" printed on the side but that doesn't do anything for me
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Feb 14, 2016 18:46
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Wanhao didn't invent the i3, they're just one of many that have taken a very successful open source design and shipped it. Just as their d4 is a version of the originally open source makerbot. I'm not knocking them for that but I've seen a few places now where people seem to attribute wanhao as the 'original' i3. They're a lovely company for support - the one and only printer where they didn't straight copy an existing design, the D5, has major issues with no hope of decent support or fixes. /rant Have a look at the Reprep wiki or if you want there are resellers who do spare parts for wanhao brand printers. They're not an oem part so you'll have no trouble finding a replacement.
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Feb 14, 2016 19:50
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Really? Because I've had nothing but trouble finding the part. I can't find anything about it in terms of degrees per step, voltage, current draw, etc. I'd like to have specific details as to what I'm looking for so that I can buy it off of aliexpress or something for $10 instead of $40 from some reseller edit: i just opened it up and tried to clean out the extruder, then put everything back together. the gear had some plastic on it, so i cleaned that off too but my prints are still starting out like this 
30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 20:26
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BiohazrD posted:Really? Because I've had nothing but trouble finding the part. I can't find anything about it in terms of degrees per step, voltage, current draw, etc. I'd like to have specific details as to what I'm looking for so that I can buy it off of aliexpress or something for $10 instead of $40 from some reseller That looks like not enough adhesion or a badly configured first layer. How old is that tape and/or the nozzle is not starting close enough to the bed. Move your nozzle to that point and try to put a sheet underneath it. It should get underneath it but with friction as well when you pull it out. For the badly configured first layer, is that the raft or the actual real first layer of the object?
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Feb 14, 2016 22:20
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Actual first layer. I'm using simplify3d with a height of .2mm. I'm willing to tool around with settings but like I said I've been printing with this for a while using these settings and haven't had any major problems until now. But maybe the motor was a coincidence. I've tried adjusting my build platform but honestly the paper goes in and out with a bit of drag. Which is how it should be. And I change the tape usually after every other print or so The actual edges of the piece look fine. It's the fills that are all hosed up 30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 22:55
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