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HardCoil posted:Nice, I love all the little drawers. Do you remember what it's called? I hope to start building my new workstation this summer, and that looks like just the thing! The unit itself is cheap, but buying the drawers is quite expensive (£16/2 - £128 total). Although you don't necessarily have to go as drawer-mad as I did. One warning: if you can't anchor the unit to the wall it's a teensy bit wobbly along the long axis (my skirting "boards" are solid concrete, and prevent the use of the included bracket). It's not a major issue though - next time you're in Ikea, go and poke one of the display units to get an idea of what I'm talking about.
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Feb 14, 2016 14:27
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HardCoil posted:Nice, I love all the little drawers. Do you remember what it's called? I hope to start building my new workstation this summer, and that looks like just the thing! You'll want these as well http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40261057/ And a Linnmon tabletop
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Feb 14, 2016 14:51
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signalnoise posted:You'll want these as well and two table legs too! As an alternative, I guess you could affix the other side of the table to another shelving unit though I'm not entirely sure how stable this would be without additional support in the middle.
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Feb 14, 2016 15:15
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OneTrueBru posted:and two table legs too! 
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Feb 14, 2016 15:25
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For painting black armor, keep it simple: black paint with dark gray edge highlighting. Pick out the highest edge points with a medium gray for a little extra pop. Trying to do a dark gray base and shade down just makes your "black" marines look gray.
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Feb 14, 2016 15:30
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If anyone here would like to win a full card case from KR Multicase, I'm raffling off a new one for charity. Details here!
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Feb 14, 2016 15:56
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Painted up some more Meganobz for my Blood Axes! They're up to 6 now, I've got three to go.       
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Feb 14, 2016 19:09
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5/7 Nomads done Spektr with Combi-Rifle. Rushed this guy a bit as he wasn't as fun as the others were. Should have the Nomads done soon so I can paint up the PanO guys next. Ilor posted:For painting black armor, keep it simple: black paint with dark gray edge highlighting. Pick out the highest edge points with a medium gray for a little extra pop. Trying to do a dark gray base and shade down just makes your "black" marines look gray. That approach works well for hard surfaces, I'm a fan of a very dark grey base for cloth. The "Black" on this guy was VMC German Grey, highlighted with Neutral Grey, Blue-Grey and then Sky Grey. I did it that way so the black in the crevices stood out a bit more.
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Feb 14, 2016 19:14
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OneTrueBru posted:The unit itself is cheap, but buying the drawers is quite expensive (£16/2 - £128 total). Although you don't necessarily have to go as drawer-mad as I did. That's Ikea for you though. Everything seems cheap or reasonable, and then when you reach checkout, it adds up to an obscene amount of money. I DO want to go drawer mad, so I'm also looking at this: http://www.ikea.com/dk/da/catalog/products/50192822/ (The same ones SN is using?) I already have a nice table and some closets for the larger stuff. Getting to build a dedicated room for this stuff is awesome 
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Feb 14, 2016 19:34
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Thanks for the advice, y'all. I think my planned scheme will have enough going on that the models won't be simply flat black. I'll stick to black primary with dark grey and light grey highlights. Should let the rest of the scheme breathe a bit more. Luckily, I have a bunch of spare 40k marines that I can use as practice before I mess up on the actual 30k stuff. I already tried doing that first tutorial's method, but with a black wash to tie the dark grey and black together a bit more. While it looked too sloppy before the wash, with it it is almost unnoticeable. I think I won't bother with that and stick to a two-tiered highlight instead.
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Feb 14, 2016 19:34
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Three more done Still so much Cygnar left ughhhhh
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Feb 14, 2016 20:01
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HardCoil posted:That's Ikea for you though. Everything seems cheap or reasonable, and then when you reach checkout, it adds up to an obscene amount of money. I have the shorter ones but just check the dimensions of everything. I can tell you though that the small drawers of the Alex will hold an upright Vallejo or Minitaire bottle
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Feb 14, 2016 20:23
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I picked up some Vallejo Surface Primer, and the label and all the comments about it say it can be ran directly out of the bottle through an airbrush. When I tried, it clogged my feed repeatedly and came out in a very sparse, strangled spray. Any idea what could have caused this?
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Feb 14, 2016 20:35
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Springfield Fatts posted:I picked up some Vallejo Surface Primer, and the label and all the comments about it say it can be ran directly out of the bottle through an airbrush. When I tried, it clogged my feed repeatedly and came out in a very sparse, strangled spray. Any idea what could have caused this? What's the needle size? I generally have a problem if I'm using anything smaller than a 3. You can dilute it with airbrush thinner if you're having a problem but I find also that VSP dries so fast that it would clog my gravity feed brush. I have a siphon feed now and it works fine undiluted through a 5 through that.
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Feb 14, 2016 20:52
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An 0.5, but it is the gravity feed Patriot. Maybe the quick drying is the issue, it tends to leave a pool of gunk at the bottom of the reservoir when I clean it out.
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Feb 14, 2016 21:11
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 I have 10-15 of these guys and I desperately need your help. Simply put, how do I finish them? I wanted to have red clothing, black armor, orange goggles (like DoW2 guard), but these were one of the first miniatures I painted.I left them untouched for a few years because I don't know what to do, but I like the conversion work I did and I just don't want to leave them indistinct black blobs. They were supposed to be inquisitorial warrior acolytes and the color scheme was to ape inq stormies.
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Feb 14, 2016 21:46
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JcDent posted:
They need highlights, and you need to pain their faces behind the gasmasks. Then you need to base them. You also should pick out details on the guns and paint them differently - the bayonet, barrel, bolt, parts of the gun that would take metallics well. Hell you could even paint the case of the bolter a different color if you really wanted.
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Feb 14, 2016 21:49
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To add to what SRM posted, I'd throw a tiny amount of turquoise in there as it'll work well with the red/orange concept but only a small amount as you don't want the colour to dominate the primary red/black (ribbing on plasma gun is a prime candidate, but maybe a little feature on the other two somewhere e.g tubing to keep them looking uniform). It could also be the picture, but the red looks really dark and has very little contrast to the black so maybe layer on some lighter red and edge highlight with a small amount of the orange colour from the visor to tie it together maybe?
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Feb 14, 2016 21:56
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Springfield Fatts posted:I picked up some Vallejo Surface Primer, and the label and all the comments about it say it can be ran directly out of the bottle through an airbrush. When I tried, it clogged my feed repeatedly and came out in a very sparse, strangled spray. Any idea what could have caused this? You need to thin the paint. 'Airbrush ready' doesn't really mean anything, at best it means the pigments are ground small enough to spray (normal Citadel paint is generally not ground thin enough). You still need to thin the medium down enough, use a high enough air pressure and/or use the large enough needle size to spray the paint properly. With a 0.3mm needle you will probably need 30-35psi to spray unthinned primer, but these sorts of things all vary depending on what you've got and what paints you're using.
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Feb 14, 2016 23:56
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In any case I always give my airbrush a drat thorough cleaning after VSP cause that poo poo gunks up worse than any paint.
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Feb 14, 2016 23:59
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Final shots of the two finished gangs, 2 evenings of painting for each. Using Chaos Cultists from Dark Vengeance.  Next up will be either some more Kingdom Death, or the Raging Heroes Jailbirds that will make an Escher gang.
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Feb 15, 2016 00:42
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I always thin my paints, varnish, and primer even if it's listed as 'airbrush ready'. Even the Vallejo airbrush paints which are very watery get thinned about 4:1 paint:water. I love thin layers though.
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Feb 15, 2016 00:43
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OneTrueBru posted:^^^ E: nice to see more rad Infinity models. I'm kinda dreading the Nomad half of the Icestorm set - looks harder to paint than the Pan-O stuff. ^^^ Love this. Great work.
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Feb 15, 2016 01:07
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Turns out things from Spain take longer to arrive than I expected! Finally got a start on some things. Primed and cleaned Lucy, Vampire Bride and Ragnok, Norse Ork Hero, both from FER Miniatures.  Sat that way for a week or so while life got busy but tonight I finally got to put some paint on Lucy. Just started with some rough sketching on the skin, basecoated the hair to get an idea how the colors work, and started cleaning and refining the right half of the face.   You can see the difference between the rough sketch side and the more refined side (which still isn't done). Happy with it so far, but obviously still way early. I don't like the hair color (too orange and not enough red) but it'll serve as a comparison for now I think.  Edit: Told myself I wouldn't do the eyes until both sides of the face were done, clearly that was a lie:  
JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 06:50
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Awesome. Busts are definitely going to be next foray.
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Feb 15, 2016 08:33
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Another nap time, another Nomad. Mobile Brigada (Nomad 6 of 7) richyp fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 15:45
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richyp posted:Another nap time, another Nomad. You're fukin killin me, man. I have the PanO side of this box and I have one fusiler oathed this month and all he's got is primer on him.
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Feb 15, 2016 18:00
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Seriously. Are you priming your guys black or white? I'm finding I can't get a nice cartoony red if I don't prime white, but the rest of the model sucks unless I do spot blacks on any other colors first. All my nomads look so lovely compared to my Pan-O and it's breaking my heart.
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Feb 15, 2016 18:14
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grassy gnoll posted:Seriously. The Nomads are primed in black because "weather", but I did find a fast way to do the red that is pretty forgiving. The Morats I did a couple of weeks ago were primed white which I really prefer as it's less hassle getting a bright red. Black Primer Quick Red - VMC Red (70926) - (A very dark red almost brown not sure on GW equivalent) - Cover's pretty well even watered down but will require a couple of coats and it dries quite glossy for some reason. I just apply it like I'm doing a heavy dry brush and keep going around the model until its covered. - Apply some Blue wash in the recesses. (Brown/Black might work but I used blue as the shade for the grey "scale" areas so it was faster to wash at the same time) - Layer VMC Flat Red (70957) / Evil Sunz Scarlet works too. - Couple of thin highlights of VMC German Orange (70805) - Few dots of VMC Sand Yellow (70916) for flavour. Including the wash drying time it's pretty quick to pull off (hour or so on this guy) and doesn't look too bad close up.  (Yay brush strokes) Just the Grenzer to go then I can paint the PanO's aka the reason I bought the set  EDIT: vvvv The red took about an hour, the whole thing was probably about 3-4hrs. richyp fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 18:52
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It looks absolutely fantastic for an hour. My usual work during nap time is to look at a mini and think about painting it.
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Feb 15, 2016 18:56
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Getting back to painting after a long hiatus: Decided to start in on my Mechanicum backlog so I can actually field it in a game.
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Feb 15, 2016 18:59
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richyp posted:then I can paint the PanO's aka the reason I bought the set Cat Face Joe posted:You're fukin killin me, man. I have the PanO side of this box
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Feb 15, 2016 19:14
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PierreTheMime posted:Getting back to painting after a long hiatus: 
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Feb 15, 2016 19:26
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I'm loving your painting tutes richyp Some test shots of a Cerastus Knight Archeron I'm nearly done with:     Need to see if the customer is happy with the amount of weathering. Going to add heat staining and some fuel/oil drips around the tanks and major joints, and maybe some tufts of dead grass, and whatever else he wants. Any suggestions or critiques? krushgroove fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 21:18
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That metallic green looks ace, reminds me of a giant beetle or something
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Feb 15, 2016 21:44
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krushgroove posted:I'm loving your painting tutes richyp Thanks man, your stuff is making me desperate to get an airbrush and seconding that the metallic green looks awesome. I keep looking at the Patriot and hovering over the buy button even though I really should wait a few weeks before spending more hobby bucks. I was hoping to get one to base/pre-shade the PanO from the Operation Icestorm set I got on Tuesday but a friend of mine bailed out of Monday pub night meaning that I had the evening to finish the Nomads (except basing) from the box and the PanO are next in the queue. So either I wait to paint them and get something else painted or I paint a lot of blue. Anyway, to oppose last weeks Morat force here's the completed Nomads.  (I rushed the left guy because he was boring as gently caress to paint and I wanted to finish the set)
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Feb 15, 2016 22:31
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I'm on the verge of binning an army because of my inability to paint white. I posted in here before about it but things have got ridiculous now. Has anyone had any success whatsoever in using Vallejo Game Air - Dead White on a miniature? I've tried every permutation of this bottle of bullshit with every additive and technique and it turns to poo poo every time.
I've picked up a second bottle of this BULLSHIT in case I had a dud but I'm getting the same results. Am I just going to give up and use the Citadel base paint or something? Please tell me I'm overlooking something terribly obvious. Last time I ran into this I stopped painting for about a month after ruining a tactical squad.  Previously pictures were requested. I can supply them in a bit when I find my phone, if they'll be helpful.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:19
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Try P3 Morrow White or VMC Ivory? (Or even an artist's paint, like Golden.) I have a list of paints people really like, and there are several different whites on that list that you could pick from, depending on your needs: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 I've never used Dead White so I can't say if your experience is normal, but I tend to avoid Vallejo's Game ranges anyway. Everything I've seen about VGC says that the range is extremely variable in quality (I haven't heard much about VGA one way or the other), and the added durability doesn't mean anything to me when I varnish all my little guys anyway. You could also try adding an agitator to your bottle to help mix the paint, if you think that might be an issue. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9F8ILU Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 23:26
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Thanks guys - the green is actually really easy (with the airbrush). The whole model is primed in black, then the armor panels were painted with a metallic black (I used Darkstar Miniatures metallics but Vallejo will do as well). I painted the middle third of the panels in a medium metallic silver then a lighter metallic silver. Then a few coats of Tamiya Clear Green, hitting it with a hair dryer after each layer. The gold bits on the chassis were airbrushed gold then drybrushed with a lighter gold and then with silver, the same colors were used on the armor trim. I'm trying to stick with an easy to remember 'recipe' for doing silver and gold rather than trying to do specific recipes for every new model I do, especially on commission stuff, just to make things simpler and faster. The Badger UK importer I work with is doing a 1-day airbrush beginner's course on the 19th next month, it's £70, would be a great way to get hands-on experience and ask all the questions you want. I'll be helping on a 2-day course in May that's specifically wargame airbrushing, that's £170 I think (lunch/drinks included!). Details are here: http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/22-workshop-tuition-class- if anyone in the UK is interested.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:28
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Is Tamiya the go-to source for clear acrylics? I'm not looking to do candy paint or anything, but I do have a couple kits with clear resin skulls that I want to do something cool with. I was thinking about going for glowing red/orange eyes. I'm debating whether I should paint them with clear paints or use opaque paint instead.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:36
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