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Cakefool posted:Silly question but can you cut them in half and use the different ends for different things / parts? Yeah I should be able to avoid at least around 80 cm of the exposed ends, I think. I can't seem to feel any particular difference in surface moisture on the ends, but I doubt that'd be any measure at all either way. (But the ends with barcode stapled on was facing outward, so I know which end is which.)
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Feb 14, 2016 19:39
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If you cut the pieces to length and then store them somewhere in a similar humidity to their planned location for several weeks, that can help fix some potential warpage problems
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Feb 14, 2016 20:05
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If anyone here own a pipe clamp, would you mind taking some close up pictures of the clutch mechanism on the moving part? And perhaps some measurements, curious to know what size holes are in the clutch discs in relation to the side of the pipe. I'd like to try and build a pipe clamp but I don't own any real pipe clamps, they don't seem to be sold much here.
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Feb 15, 2016 11:33
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Got some AV gloves and am very happy. Can obviously still feel the tool as I'm working but I'm no longer feeling it in my hands for several hours after stopping work.
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Feb 15, 2016 11:51
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 Good lord I'm tired of mdf
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Feb 15, 2016 14:44
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Sander chat from a little while back: I've only got a ROS detail sander, would a belt or sheet sander be a good next investment?
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Feb 15, 2016 15:09
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Belt sanders are always great because in addition to a nice crazy fast material removal sander, you can make a jig to hold it upside down and have a stationary sander and/or on its side for an edge sander setup. I personally think sheet sanders are an unnecessary step.
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Feb 15, 2016 15:58
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Cakefool posted:Sander chat from a little while back: I've only got a ROS detail sander, would a belt or sheet sander be a good next investment? Do you work with hardwoods or sheet goods? If you work with sheet goods a sheet sander is your fine finishing tool, unless you have a very high quality ROS I wouldn't skip the sheet sander (unless you want to sand by hand with a sanding block, which is what I do). If you work primarily in hardwoods then I'd skip both and get a smoothing plane. Those that regularly use belt Sanders, what are you doing with them? I don't doubt folks find them useful, I'm just struggling to think of a furniture making operation that needs something that aggressive. I prioritize dust control by reducing dust creation, so I think I'd just gravitate towards spokeshaves and bandsaws for any operation I would conceivably use a belt sander for, but I'm open to reconsider. I bought a heavy duty Ridgid belt sander on clearance years ago and still haven't used it. Hypnolobster posted:
I mean the good news is you shouldn't need to make another torsion box for awhile.
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Feb 15, 2016 20:42
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GEMorris posted:Those that regularly use belt Sanders, what are you doing with them? I don't doubt folks find them useful, I'm just struggling to think of a furniture making operation that needs something that aggressive. I bought one to refinish my deck. I've also clamped one up and used it as an impromptu shaper when I didn't have access to a band saw but I've never used one on furniture.
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Feb 15, 2016 21:09
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I mostly use my belt sander for cutting boards. Or anything else with excessive end grain.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:04
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Adding to the recommendations to get a belt sander. They're invaluable. I guess I would find a use for a sheet sander if I had one, but between my belt sander and random orbital sander I've never needed anything else.
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Feb 17, 2016 00:25
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Kerro posted:Adding to the recommendations to get a belt sander. They're invaluable. I guess I would find a use for a sheet sander if I had one, but between my belt sander and random orbital sander I've never needed anything else. Right, but as I asked, invaluable for what? I realize this is a woodworking thread and not specifically a furniture building thread, but what are you using the belt sander for?
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Feb 17, 2016 01:11
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In my case, I pretty much only work with recycled wood which means that if I'm laminating a bunch of pieces together there's a pretty good chance that I'm not going to get a nice even surface. I use the belt sander for levelling the surface, along with a jack plane. I also find with my thicknesser (which may be a problem with it more than anything else) quite a bit of the recycled wood I feed through it comes out with very light chipping. Again, the belt sander quickly smooths that out. Same with filled nail holes. I also like using my fixed belt sander for doing tapers on table legs etc but in this case there are probably better tools for the job, I just don't have them. I guess if you worked exclusively with finished wood or had a good enough thicknesser that you didn't need to sand after planing then it might not be so useful but in my case it's probably one of my most used power tools.
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Feb 17, 2016 03:45
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I'm just trying to imagine the state of planer knives where cleaning up machining marks involves a belt sander.... A sheet sander, sure, even a ROS, OK, maybe. But a belt sander? You're not prepping glue joints with the belt sander are you?
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Feb 17, 2016 04:00
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GEMorris posted:I'm just trying to imagine the state of planer knives where cleaning up machining marks involves a belt sander.... I should take pics of my old planer knives.. I ran 1 piece of wood through it and stopped looked at the knives and wondered if grandpa was planing rebar with it. they were wayyy past usable like he planed wood that he forgot had nails in it or something.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:05
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The planer knives are actually near-new - no chips or anything, and it doesn't do it with other woods e.g. pine that I've put through it which makes me wonder if it's something about the structure of the Rimu particularly that causes it to do that. Not sure what you mean by prepping glue joints, but no, I mostly just use hand tools for joins. I use the sander exclusively for flattening uneven surfaces and occasionally rough-shaping of pieces.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:05
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Hah OK, cool. If that works for you then more power to you. Your situation with that particular wood species definitely seems outside the norm in my experience.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:08
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Hmm, well that has caused me to wonder if I can actually correct the problem at the source rather than fixing it afterwards. It seems there are a myriad of reasons why this can happen (from reading other people's descriptions of my problem it sounds like it's actually more an issue with the knives pressing the cut off chips back into the wood) and a variety of possible solutions so I'll have to see if I can find a better workaround.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:30
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Kerro posted:The planer knives are actually near-new - no chips or anything, and it doesn't do it with other woods e.g. pine that I've put through it which makes me wonder if it's something about the structure of the Rimu particularly that causes it to do that. Does some of this wood have finish on it when you plane it?
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Feb 17, 2016 05:02
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Since I made my disc sander attachement for my lathe it has been frequently used to shape things and hog off stuff quickly. It's great. But a belt sander will be better, you can use all the area of the belt then. I'm planning to build two, half way through the first sander which is more of a linisher for sharpening tools. The 2nd one will be a 6x48 sander. Not sure when it will be done, probably starting on it in a few months unless I find a used one really cheaply.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:29
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mds2 posted:Does some of this wood have finish on it when you plane it? Yes, reasonably often but that's not the only time I get the problem. Can that be a factor? I guess I'm wondering if it is that I might be getting chips from the finish caught up in the dust guard etc that could be causing problems even when I'm not using wood with a finish.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:55
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I don't own a thickness planer and I'm all for reclaimed wood so it sounds like I'd get more use out of a belt sander than a sheet sander. Thanks. The bookcase I built required quite a bit of work on the reclaimed wood top that took me a long time switching around between the plane and ROS (I'm learning)
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Feb 17, 2016 07:27
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Finished the table I was working on finally. Lesson learned: don't try and do mixed-colour joins using stained wood, use an actual dark wood instead.
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Feb 17, 2016 08:58
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I mostly use my belt sander for cutting boards.
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Feb 17, 2016 18:40
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Slugworth posted:drat man, you should invest in like, a saw. I read it that way as well and had to re-read it half a dozen times before I figured it out. 
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Feb 17, 2016 18:42
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Slugworth posted:drat man, you should invest in like, a saw.  Also, I think I used my belt-sander on these, but maybe just the R-O sander. 
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Feb 17, 2016 18:58
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Slugworth posted:drat man, you should invest in like, a saw. Aww drat phrasing got me. Or perhaps I do rip boards by just sanding them the entire way...
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Feb 17, 2016 19:43
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Cakefool posted:I don't own a thickness planer and I'm all for reclaimed wood so it sounds like I'd get more use out of a belt sander than a sheet sander. Thanks. The bookcase I built required quite a bit of work on the reclaimed wood top that took me a long time switching around between the plane and ROS (I'm learning) I'd buy a thickness planer before I bought any power tool, except maybe a bandsaw.
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Feb 17, 2016 21:56
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I mostly use my belt sander for cutting boards. Or anything else with excessive end grain. I still don't understand what this was meant to mean.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:56
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Cobalt60 posted:I still don't understand what this was meant to mean. Cutting boards are usually all end grain He uses a belt sander to surface them.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:59
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Cobalt60 posted:I still don't understand what this was meant to mean. It's (cutting boards), not cutting (boards). A noun indicating a board that is used as a surface for chopping veggies and the like.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:59
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A better phrasing might have been "I mostly use my belt sander for sanding end grain cutting boards." Sorry for the confusion!
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Feb 17, 2016 23:07
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When you are saying belt sander, do you mean the table mounted kind, or the hand tool kind? I think I burnt out my craftsman from the 70's, so need a new one. Any recommendations? Id like a big one, but currently have no more bench space for one.
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Feb 17, 2016 23:11
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scrap cherry plywood plus whatever I have = random set of junk drawers for the office
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Feb 18, 2016 01:27
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Im laughing at the thought of someone using a belt sander to cut a board in two.
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Feb 18, 2016 01:53
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mds2 posted:Im laughing at the thought of someone using a belt sander to cut a board in two. That would be a hell of a kerf. I'd kind of like to see someone make a box joint jig for that though.
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Feb 18, 2016 02:02
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mds2 posted:Im laughing at the thought of someone using a belt sander to cut a board in two. "Don't mind me, I just did some resawing today, made a couple square feet of really sweet veneer!" 
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Feb 18, 2016 02:05
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Sylink posted:scrap cherry plywood plus whatever I have = random set of junk drawers for the office Pull out the drawers and reinstall them in a gradient.
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Feb 18, 2016 05:56
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Sylink posted:scrap cherry plywood plus whatever I have = random set of junk drawers for the office Looking good. I have a sack full of those exact same pulls that I scavenged from something, somewhere at sometime; I don't know where they came from but I think they are identical. Wait, how big is this thing? It looks perfect for a tool chest. mds2 posted:Im laughing at the thought of someone using a belt sander to cut a board in two. I did laugh, I misread it too and thought he was being a smart-rear end. In other news, I bought a Craftsman push drill because they look so handy. It came with all 8 bits. No chance to try it yet though.
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Feb 18, 2016 06:03
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That thing is sweet, I've been meaning to buy a hex bit adapter for my old yankee screwdriver. Yesterday I just finished teaching a spoon carving course, and now there's big interest in a "make a stool from a tree" course for autumn. Looks like I get to hit things with axes and receive pay for it!
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Feb 18, 2016 10:46
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