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Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
I've got a couple bottles of mead from 2005-2006 or so.

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Zaepho
Oct 31, 2013

Jo3sh posted:

I still have you all beat. Any older than 2005?

St Arnold's Divine Reserve #1
Brewed: August 18, 2005
Bottled: October 17, 2005
Cases Made: 327

It's on it's last legs but why break up the set at this point? (ok missing some DR3 for unknown reasons but still have a few bottles of 1 and gently caress 9 WAY too much of that left)

Edit: apparently spelling/typing is hard

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!
Here's what I rediscovered in my beer fridge today:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

wattershed
Dec 27, 2002

Radio got his free iPod, did you get yours???
Hah I have two of those '94 bottles. Have heard it'd be better used in a two item combo from Panda Express than in a glass though. Reading the Untappd reviews of them are fun.

Does a can of Billy Beer count?

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

wattershed posted:

Hah I have two of those '94 bottles. Have heard it'd be better used in a two item combo from Panda Express than in a glass though. Reading the Untappd reviews of them are fun.

Does a can of Billy Beer count?

I'm 90% sure my dad has a can of it still. He actually has a bunch of old beers, although most of them are just empty cans. He collected them for a while.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS

wattershed posted:

Hah I have two of those '94 bottles. Have heard it'd be better used in a two item combo from Panda Express than in a glass though. Reading the Untappd reviews of them are fun.

Does a can of Billy Beer count?

A friend of mine found a can of Natty Boh that has to be from the 50s if not earlier D:

I've had '94 Bigfoot and it was nice.

ScaerCroe
Oct 6, 2006
IRRITANT

ChickenArise posted:

I just tasted my 1gal coffee/cream ale experiment. I think it's going places. Great places.

Recipe?

ChiTownEddie
Mar 26, 2010

Awesome beer, no pants.
Join the Legion.
Has anyone made a dry hopped berliner style beer?
I just found a packet of Omega Lacto in my fridge that I'd forgotten about and I immediately made a starter to brew with it...but I was kinda feeling something dry hopped for my next beer.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

ChiTownEddie posted:

Has anyone made a dry hopped berliner style beer?
I just found a packet of Omega Lacto in my fridge that I'd forgotten about and I immediately made a starter to brew with it...but I was kinda feeling something dry hopped for my next beer.

I'm planning to this summer. I was thinking a berliner with pineapple dry hopped with something tropical.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
I haven't personally, but I have them. Just pick a hop that pairs well with the acid. I wish I remembered what the one I tasted used as it was pretty good. It was one of those citrus/grapefruit sort of hops, that much I remember. Nothing in the piney-danky spectrum.

I'm nearing the end of my 2nd mash of the day. I'm starting to get bored and all the cleaning is done from the RIS. This is the Pale Ale I inquired about for examples. I settled on a less malty version as I'm still trying to find my super particular wife a beer that she likes.

9lbs Pale 2-row
1lb Dextrine/Carafoam
1lb C10
0.5 Galena 60min
1oz each Summit/Citra 5min
1oz each Summit/Citra dry hop

She responds well to the sweetness, so hopefully this isn't too much even for her. There should be plenty of bitter to balance that sweetness hopefully.

Also: Thank the beer gods that this pound of Galena I bought is almost gone.

nullfunction
Jan 24, 2005

Nap Ghost

ChiTownEddie posted:

Has anyone made a dry hopped berliner style beer?
I just found a packet of Omega Lacto in my fridge that I'd forgotten about and I immediately made a starter to brew with it...but I was kinda feeling something dry hopped for my next beer.

I'm actually planning to split batch (dry hop half, fruit the other half) either a gose or berliner this summer. Seems like it would be really good with a fruity or tropical hop, Mosaic or something similar. I'd be interested to see your recipe and hear how it turns out, I have a lot of beer to brew before then.

In the next couple of weeks I'm brewing two beers that both won gold medals in their categories last year: a kolsch and a rye IPA. Going to split the kolsch and do 5 gallons straight up, make a batch of cold brew coffee, and add some to the other half. I was inspired by a coffee kolsch I had at GABF last year, which happened just a few weeks after our kolsch won in a local competition, fortuitous timing.

ChickenArise, what did your process look like for your coffee cream ale? I'm thinking fairly subtle is the right way to go.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
I made a tomato wine.

Everyone said "That sounds terrible!"

I've tasted it now... it's really good.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Bottled this last weekend:



Was a wheat beer that leaked in the fermenter (in a water bath, so entirely possible some water got in and contaminated it), and FG was something like 1.022 anyways, possibly because I didn't add any extra fermentables other than the tin of wheat malt, I dunno. Rather than pour it out I figured I might as well get weird with it, worst case I'm only out the additional table sugar and a handful of bottlecaps anyhow. Did about half with the durian extract, the remainder with cherry or apricot extract that I made for another beer I have in mind.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS

The base is pretty basic:
37.5% Maris Otter
37.5% 2-row
12.5% flaked corn
12.5% DME wheat
Ferment with US-05
OG 1.046, FG 1.010-1.012

My coffee cold brew is around 250g coffee (currently going with the megacheap option of Trader Joe's Smooth & Mellow blend; very chocolatey cold brew) into a 2L vessel that is mostly filled with water for 18-24hrs. That concentrate goes into the base beer around 2.2 cups per gallon. Bottling is tomorrow, optimistically, so we'll see. Originally I meant to add oats to the base beer, too, but then it was time to brew and I didn't have the car or a place to get oats within walking distance.


ChiTownEddie posted:

Has anyone made a dry hopped berliner style beer?
I just found a packet of Omega Lacto in my fridge that I'd forgotten about and I immediately made a starter to brew with it...but I was kinda feeling something dry hopped for my next beer.

I haven't made one, but the handful I've had suggest you can't go wrong. I had a Nelson Sauvin dry-hopped gose recently that was amazing.

ChickenArise fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Feb 21, 2016

ChiTownEddie
Mar 26, 2010

Awesome beer, no pants.
Join the Legion.

ChickenArise posted:

I haven't made one, but the handful I've had suggest you can't go wrong. I had a Nelson Sauvin dry-hopped gose recently that was amazing.

Omg. So done. Nelson Sauvin might be my favorite hop and I didn't even consider it.

thotsky
Jun 7, 2005

hot to trot

ChiTownEddie posted:

Has anyone made a dry hopped berliner style beer?
I just found a packet of Omega Lacto in my fridge that I'd forgotten about and I immediately made a starter to brew with it...but I was kinda feeling something dry hopped for my next beer.

I've not done it, but it's become sort of a staple at local brewpubs. Amarillo seems to be a safe and popular choice. Citra if you can get any without that cat-pee thing going on.

ChiTownEddie
Mar 26, 2010

Awesome beer, no pants.
Join the Legion.

Biomute posted:

I've not done it, but it's become sort of a staple at local brewpubs. Amarillo seems to be a safe and popular choice. Citra if you can get any without that cat-pee thing going on.

Cool thanks! Nelson Sauvin is often oos so I'll use Amarillo as my backup :)

This is probably a stupid second question, but I haven't brewed an AG batch yet with wheat at any interesting amount. (Only brewed like 5 AG batches total) If I am doing something like 2/3 Pils and 1/3 wheat malt does that require something special during the mash or can I just treat it as my normal process of single infusion?

SLICK GOKU BABY
Jun 12, 2001

Hey Hey Let's Go! 喧嘩する
大切な物を protect my balls


My first home brewed beer successfully transferred into the secondary. The gravity calculations came out within the range of the recipe kit, should be around 5.25%. I didn't think to check how much liquid the carboy actually holds, it's supposed to be a 5 gallon carboy but not sure where the 5 gallon mark is on it to see how much beer I lost during fermentation since it was 5 gallons when I put the lid on the bucket for the primary.

And the important thing, it smells like beer too.

Was just a Red Ale kit from Brewer's Best



If I can find a cheap used carboy I will start my other Brewer's Best kit this week, its a Pumpkin Spice Porter that my LHBS had on sale for $26 since it's out of season.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

ChiTownEddie posted:

Cool thanks! Nelson Sauvin is often oos so I'll use Amarillo as my backup :)

This is probably a stupid second question, but I haven't brewed an AG batch yet with wheat at any interesting amount. (Only brewed like 5 AG batches total) If I am doing something like 2/3 Pils and 1/3 wheat malt does that require something special during the mash or can I just treat it as my normal process of single infusion?

You're using malted wheat, so you're fine. I'd add some rice hulls just so I don't have problems with a stuck mash. Otherwise, you don't need to do anything special.

@Slick Goku Baby - You may want to just get a brewing bucket instead. They tend to be cheaper unless you can find one for about the same price as the bucket. I can occasionally find them for $20 used on craigslist near me, but I still do most brewing in buckets. I'd guess you lost about half a gallon if that's really a 5gal carboy.

SLICK GOKU BABY
Jun 12, 2001

Hey Hey Let's Go! 喧嘩する
大切な物を protect my balls


I read the plastic brewing buckets weren't as good to use for a secondary / longer fermentation period because they can let oxygen through. Why I am trying to get a glass carboy instead. I do have a bucket for the primary.

nullfunction
Jan 24, 2005

Nap Ghost

SLICK GOKU BABY posted:

I read the plastic brewing buckets weren't as good to use for a secondary / longer fermentation period because they can let oxygen through. Why I am trying to get a glass carboy instead. I do have a bucket for the primary.

What are you aging to the degree that glass vs plastic is going to be a big deal? For what it's worth, I started out on glass and went to plastic shortly thereafter. The additional weight, risk of shattering and injury, and the lack of a handle just don't outweigh a small amount of oxygen transfer for me.

Beer will sit in plastic buckets, on the yeast cake, for several months without issue, assuming you keep the airlock filled. Hell, throw some dry hops in there at the end too, it'll be fine. Using a secondary is generally not necessary for most beer, it introduces an additional risk of contamination and exposure to oxygen during the transfer. At homebrew scales and homebrew timeframes, I would be surprised if you ever ran into problems with autolysis, unless you are pitching very poor quality yeast.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
^^^ A thousand times, this.

For most of the beer out there, using a secondary is entirely unnecessary. You can just leave it in the bucket for a month until it drops clear before bottling/kegging.

The only time I use a secondary is if I'm aging something for an extended period of time. I'll move the Imperial Stout I just brewed to a secondary (whiskey barrel) before bottling. I move anything that I want super clear or needs a bit of cold storage like the Belgian style Tripel I just bottled. Basically, these beers are just getting some extra time to blend flavors before bottling because they're really very strong and would otherwise just taste hot with alcohol. Sours/wild beers and anything you want to age on fruit would also get extended secondary treatment.

Your kits will be fine if you just leave them in the bucket until you're ready to bottle them, and you won't get any change in flavors because of it. If the people at your LHBS are telling you it does, they really might just want you to buy carboys from them (buy them from craigslist if you can).

nullfunction
Jan 24, 2005

Nap Ghost
Or, support your LHBS by buying buckets. Lots and lots of buckets.

LaserWash
Jun 28, 2006
Anyone have racetrack style ball lock kegs (like the really really old style with one handle)?

I bought one last year from keg connection when they were basically giving them away. I disassembled it recently when a keg floated and now I think I might be missing something on one of my two dip tubes. What am I missing?

TapTheForwardAssist
Apr 9, 2007

Pretty Little Lyres
At our West Africa offices we're on an austerity hold for a couple weeks while we wait for an invoice to get paid, so living on beans and plantains to keep the budget down, and also trimmed back most alcohol purchases. Since pineapples are in season and cheap, and we buy them anyway to eat the flesh, this has been an optimal time to get back into brewing tepache.



The pineapple waste is free since we're eating them anyway (you can eat all the flesh and just use the scraps to brew), and we have a water filter and a well, so each liter of tepache I guesstimate costs us about US 5c worth of sugar. It's not a strong drink, but it satisfies the basic desire for alcohol, it's pretty tasty, and suppose to be probiotic and good for you.

Just giving another shout out for tepache for anyone new to the thread. I've been debating making either Mexican tejuino (fermented corn dough with sugar), though corn flour actually costs some money so isn't as basically free as pineapple scraps. I thought about Finnish kilju, but that sounds like it has actual processes like filtering, fining, maybe even using an airlock, so it's not as low-skill simple as tepache.

robotsinmyhead
Nov 29, 2005

Dude, they oughta call you Piledriver!

Clever Betty
Here's a fun tale from group brewing yesterday. Mistakes were made.

My brewclub was doing a group brewing session, a classic Wee Heavy to fill our bourbon barrel. I got my grain some time ago figuring I'd BIAB (I get about 65% efficiency, which sucks, but it's not a big deal), but ended up borrowing a mashtun/3V setup at the last minute.

I pulled my Strike Water Volume / Batch Sparge Volume from someone else, and it was too much. I ended up with about 8.5g pre-boil, which is over a gallon more than I needed. Since I got an early start, I decided on a 120min boil to throw out that extra volume and between that and my much-higher-than-expected efficiency, I ended up with a 1.132 Post-Boil OG (expected 1.091). It literally pegged the refractometer.

Some distilled water was left from another guy's brew, so I back-added that to the batch and go it down to target, but ended up with almost 7g hitting the fermenter. I pitched a thankfully overbuilt starter and pulled off a gallon to side-ferment with the main batch.

The weird calculations ended up being because some of the guys were using a decoction mash step, which is often used in this style. It basically involves pulling off some amount of the first runnings and boiling them down to essentially syrup. This throws in a ton of caramel flavor and color which is in-style for Wee Heavy.

Also, we got a AHC score for our barrel-aged Bourbon stout and it was.... 32. Honestly, I would put this beer up against drat near any commercial variety and I'm stunned at how low it scored. We didn't get the score sheet yet, so we're not sure what the deal was.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
I have to admit, I'm not a big fan of someone giving my beer a numerical rating based on stuff. I don't always brew to style, and I'll be the first to be critical about what went wrong in a beer I've brewed. I don't need someone else to tell me that it's 'too dark' or 'too estery' or something. I'd rather brew to fulfill the idea of what I want a beer to taste like, than what someone else thinks it should taste like. I'm a rebel with a beer paintbrush (or something).

So if you'd put that beer up as a great bourbon barrel stout, then it must taste pretty drat good, and that's really all that matters.

I've been doing a lot of reading about making whiskey recently, and now I wish that I could make some. The recipes for whiskey grists are super short and hilarious. I have no still though, and no space to use one without freaking out all my neighbors. Even if it was just for my lawnmower to drink.

SLICK GOKU BABY
Jun 12, 2001

Hey Hey Let's Go! 喧嘩する
大切な物を protect my balls


Well I decided to take the advice of this thread and do a batch of brewskies without a secondary fermentation. I also decided to wait on brewing the pumpkin spice porter and I think I might just split up the kit and use it for a different beer/s. I found a recipe online for a lemon wheat beer and changed it up a little bit, added more hops and slightly less lemon juice to the boil.

This is the recipe I used - http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=1739

I did change it a bit and went with 6.6 lbs (instead of 6lbs) of the Wheat extract, because gently caress trying to weigh the syrup poo poo out, I seem to make enough of a mess just trying to get the poo poo into the brew pot. Likewise I also ended up with around 17.5 ounces of the caramel 10 instead of 16, decided I was close enough at my LHBS that sells grains by the ounce :D.

This is the recipe (slightly modified from the above link) that I used for the brew, BeerSmith has it well outside the range of a "wheat beer"

- 6.6 lbs Wheat Bavarian Liquid Extract
- 1lb Caramel 10L
- 0.25lb Wheat torrified
- 1 oz cascade at 60 minutes
- 0.5 oz cascade at 30 minutes
- 0.5 oz cascade at 0 minutes
- 1 oz centennial at 20 minutes
- 6 oz of lemon juice and 1 oz of lemon zest boiled at 10 minutes remaining
- 1 package of WLP380 Hefeweizen IV Ale yeast

BeerSmith estimated I would be way outside the style, but the OG is right in the range (OG is 1.044) so I probably just haven't got BeerSmith setup correctly with my equipment.

I think I am going to move to doing BIAB really quickly since the liquid extract is way more expensive at my LHBS than just buying the grain. Most of the grain there is around $2-3/lb vs paying $13/lb for 3.3lbs of extract.

Oh, and a bonus (blurry) picture from this long rambling post. Here is the wheat beer in the bucket prior to dropping the yeast.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

SLICK GOKU BABY posted:

Well I decided to take the advice of this thread and do a batch of brewskies without a secondary fermentation. I also decided to wait on brewing the pumpkin spice porter and I think I might just split up the kit and use it for a different beer/s. I found a recipe online for a lemon wheat beer and changed it up a little bit, added more hops and slightly less lemon juice to the boil.

This is the recipe I used - http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=1739

I did change it a bit and went with 6.6 lbs (instead of 6lbs) of the Wheat extract, because gently caress trying to weigh the syrup poo poo out, I seem to make enough of a mess just trying to get the poo poo into the brew pot. Likewise I also ended up with around 17.5 ounces of the caramel 10 instead of 16, decided I was close enough at my LHBS that sells grains by the ounce :D.

This is the recipe (slightly modified from the above link) that I used for the brew, BeerSmith has it well outside the range of a "wheat beer"

That looks like it'll be tasty. It's your beer so do what you want and go outside the style lines when you think it'll taste good. Going outside of style is how we get new tasty things.

Also, if you put your syrup containers into a warm water bath, they'll pour much easier and cleaner into your kettle. FWIW, I also brewed in the 'close enough for government work' method when I did extracts. The beer still tasted good. I got more precise with my numbers when I moved to AG because it was easier to be precise and that way I could also measure how my system/process was working.

SLICK GOKU BABY
Jun 12, 2001

Hey Hey Let's Go! 喧嘩する
大切な物を protect my balls


Jhet posted:

That looks like it'll be tasty. It's your beer so do what you want and go outside the style lines when you think it'll taste good. Going outside of style is how we get new tasty things.

Also, if you put your syrup containers into a warm water bath, they'll pour much easier and cleaner into your kettle. FWIW, I also brewed in the 'close enough for government work' method when I did extracts. The beer still tasted good. I got more precise with my numbers when I moved to AG because it was easier to be precise and that way I could also measure how my system/process was working.

Yea, I had it in hot water for a while before brewing, poo poo is still super sticky and messy :D.

TapTheForwardAssist
Apr 9, 2007

Pretty Little Lyres
Maybe I jinxed myself: the tepache has been sitting covered out on the porch for two days now and is only slightly bubbling, rather than a roiling cauldron of bubbles.

At first I thought maybe it had too much sugar and was persevering itself so I added some more water, but now I'm thinking maybe there isn't enough sugar to eat so the yeast have nothing to do. I have to specialized brewing tools and nowhere to get them in West Africa, so gonna have to SWAG this one.

robotsinmyhead
Nov 29, 2005

Dude, they oughta call you Piledriver!

Clever Betty

Jhet posted:

I have to admit, I'm not a big fan of someone giving my beer a numerical rating based on stuff. I don't always brew to style, and I'll be the first to be critical about what went wrong in a beer I've brewed. I don't need someone else to tell me that it's 'too dark' or 'too estery' or something. I'd rather brew to fulfill the idea of what I want a beer to taste like, than what someone else thinks it should taste like. I'm a rebel with a beer paintbrush (or something).

So if you'd put that beer up as a great bourbon barrel stout, then it must taste pretty drat good, and that's really all that matters.

I've been doing a lot of reading about making whiskey recently, and now I wish that I could make some. The recipes for whiskey grists are super short and hilarious. I have no still though, and no space to use one without freaking out all my neighbors. Even if it was just for my lawnmower to drink.

I did a little research on scoring, and a 32 isn't bad, it's just not considered GREAT. In fact, anything above a 31 is par for commercial-grade beer.

Also, despite pulling all the beer from the same barrel, the disparity between the batches we each took home was pretty amazing. People who took first pulls (bottom of the barrel, as it was racked off) got a sweeter, darker beer and people who went later (ie, me) got a boozier, heavier bourbon flavor. It also really affected carbonation. All of mine are really lightly carbed - which isn't bad for this kind of beer - but other guys got full ~1.6-2.0 volume typical.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

I'm still very much a neophyte homebrewer but have done a few batches now and looking to improve my setup and results. The first thing I know I need to absolutely be doing is keeping better track of what I do during a brew. Right now I just throw everything together and follow a recipe and never write down anything or take any measurements. I'm OK with just a pen and paper, not looking for an app or anything but I dont really know what I should be measuring to best capture what I do on brew day. Initial OG and wort temperature? How long I steep something? Whats the most important thing to record every time?

Second question is what is more of a time saver or valuable tool in everyone's opinion, a wort chiller or a bottle rack? I should say that bottling to me is the worst part of brewing and I frequently let brews sit in the fermentor because I dont want to deal with cleaning bottles. But I've heard that a wort chiller is a much needed tool and can greatly improve a brew consistently. Another factor for me is space. I'm looking to hopefully move into slightly smaller quarters in the next couple of months.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

BaseballPCHiker posted:

I'm still very much a neophyte homebrewer but have done a few batches now and looking to improve my setup and results. The first thing I know I need to absolutely be doing is keeping better track of what I do during a brew. Right now I just throw everything together and follow a recipe and never write down anything or take any measurements. I'm OK with just a pen and paper, not looking for an app or anything but I dont really know what I should be measuring to best capture what I do on brew day. Initial OG and wort temperature? How long I steep something? Whats the most important thing to record every time?

Second question is what is more of a time saver or valuable tool in everyone's opinion, a wort chiller or a bottle rack? I should say that bottling to me is the worst part of brewing and I frequently let brews sit in the fermentor because I dont want to deal with cleaning bottles. But I've heard that a wort chiller is a much needed tool and can greatly improve a brew consistently. Another factor for me is space. I'm looking to hopefully move into slightly smaller quarters in the next couple of months.

OG and FG are definitely things you should be measuring. A. So you know how much alcohol is in the finished product and also B. so you know when it's done fermenting and you don't get bottle bombs. Note taking is definitely something to keep on top of it. It helps you look back on what might have gone wrong or right in your process as you continue to learn. With extract brewing, there's generally less you need to worry about note/measurement wise, but that doesn't mean you should forget about doing it.

As for you second question, wort chiller, hands down.

Apache
May 11, 2004

robotsinmyhead posted:

Here's a fun tale from group brewing yesterday. Mistakes were made.

My brewclub was doing a group brewing session, a classic Wee Heavy to fill our bourbon barrel. I got my grain some time ago figuring I'd BIAB (I get about 65% efficiency, which sucks, but it's not a big deal), but ended up borrowing a mashtun/3V setup at the last minute.

I pulled my Strike Water Volume / Batch Sparge Volume from someone else, and it was too much. I ended up with about 8.5g pre-boil, which is over a gallon more than I needed. Since I got an early start, I decided on a 120min boil to throw out that extra volume and between that and my much-higher-than-expected efficiency, I ended up with a 1.132 Post-Boil OG (expected 1.091). It literally pegged the refractometer.

Some distilled water was left from another guy's brew, so I back-added that to the batch and go it down to target, but ended up with almost 7g hitting the fermenter. I pitched a thankfully overbuilt starter and pulled off a gallon to side-ferment with the main batch.

The weird calculations ended up being because some of the guys were using a decoction mash step, which is often used in this style. It basically involves pulling off some amount of the first runnings and boiling them down to essentially syrup. This throws in a ton of caramel flavor and color which is in-style for Wee Heavy.

Also, we got a AHC score for our barrel-aged Bourbon stout and it was.... 32. Honestly, I would put this beer up against drat near any commercial variety and I'm stunned at how low it scored. We didn't get the score sheet yet, so we're not sure what the deal was.

I've gotten a few scores in that area(30-35). It is probably something 'not to style' about your beer. I've gotten everything from a saison lacking coriander(didn't know that was even to style for a saison) in it to mouthfeel being a bit off, to chocolate in my breakfast stout not being prominent enough. While it would be nice to medal at some point, I'm just glad none of my entries have scored under a 30.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight
What's everyone's typical conditioning time for a straight-up hefeweizen (50/50 pils and wheat)?

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Apache posted:

I've gotten a few scores in that area(30-35). It is probably something 'not to style' about your beer. I've gotten everything from a saison lacking coriander(didn't know that was even to style for a saison) in it to mouthfeel being a bit off, to chocolate in my breakfast stout not being prominent enough. While it would be nice to medal at some point, I'm just glad none of my entries have scored under a 30.

Coriander isn't to style for a saison. Saison duPont is famously just Pilsener malt, so I think you got a judge who wasn't familiar with what he's judging.

This is exactly my issue with judging based on a set of adjectives that you're supposed to learn. It has problems with either being too narrow or broad. Even just looking at the judging form makes me cranky because it doesn't conform to any sort of familiar way to score something. You want to weight the different sections? Good. But don't make one section subjectively -/3 points and another -/20 points. It's poor methodology. Just make them all 1-10 and then make someone do ten seconds of math to get a total score.

But mostly, let's be honest about the subjectivity and stodginess included here. There are tens of thousands of different beers being made every day of the week, and there is no way that the 5000 or so people out there are actually keeping up with all 23 of the main styles and their subsections. You could drink 60 different and new beers a week and there's still no way you'd be keeping up with all your styles. So screw judging for the sake of it. You probably know where you are on a scale of "Piss Water - loving Awesome".

Disclaimer:
I see beer as an art form. I make drinkable art, much like chefs can often make edible art. Not all art is going to be amazing, and that's okay. There's a place in this world for mass produced versions (sports arenas) and a place where we can push boundaries in how/what we're doing (home brewing). Some artists are stronger at it than others too. But we all know the difference between when a six year old makes a finger painting, Bob Ross paints a mountain/forest view, and Michelangelo paints the Sistine Chapel. It should be fairly obvious when we're making cloudy piss water and when we're actually making something interesting and unique.

/soapbox

wattershed
Dec 27, 2002

Radio got his free iPod, did you get yours???

Jhet posted:

You probably know where you are on a scale of "Piss Water - loving Awesome".

Disclaimer:
I see beer as an art form. I make drinkable art, much like chefs can often make edible art. Not all art is going to be amazing, and that's okay. There's a place in this world for mass produced versions (sports arenas) and a place where we can push boundaries in how/what we're doing (home brewing). Some artists are stronger at it than others too. But we all know the difference between when a six year old makes a finger painting, Bob Ross paints a mountain/forest view, and Michelangelo paints the Sistine Chapel. It should be fairly obvious when we're making cloudy piss water and when we're actually making something interesting and unique.

/soapbox

So....it's like pornography? I'll know it when I taste it?

JawKnee
Mar 24, 2007





You'll take the ride to leave this town along that yellow line

Jhet posted:

Disclaimer:
I see beer as an art form. I make drinkable art, much like chefs can often make edible art. Not all art is going to be amazing, and that's okay. There's a place in this world for mass produced versions (sports arenas) and a place where we can push boundaries in how/what we're doing (home brewing). Some artists are stronger at it than others too. But we all know the difference between when a six year old makes a finger painting, Bob Ross paints a mountain/forest view, and Michelangelo paints the Sistine Chapel. It should be fairly obvious when we're making cloudy piss water and when we're actually making something interesting and unique.

/soapbox

gonna keep making barley soup in-a-bag tia

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ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS

wattershed posted:

So....it's like pornography? I'll know it when I taste it?

I definitely know pornography when I taste it

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