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Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
Take him to the vet you don't want that to get caught on something and tear even more.

AHH FUGH posted:

I'm not a dog owner, but I might get one in a few years time. I'm wondering what's the deal with e-collars and bark collars? The OP in this thread says that trainers shouldn't use them, but I'm curious to hear from goons whether or not they think they're good for training or not and/or some stories.

Bark collars in general are pretty lovely and don't fix the problems they were intended to. Ecollars are a lot more complicated. They probably shouldn't be used for 99.9999999999% of things or on most dogs but if you have a dog that harasses livestock or chases cars or other very dangerous poo poo like that they can be useful. Using them to teach normal dog behaviors or gay sport stuff is lovely though. Regardless, if you're gonna use an ecollar on your dog have a well respected trainer teach you how to use one properly before lightin up your dog

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Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax

Engineer Lenk posted:

Went herding today with my dog for half an hour and she's been chilling in the house the rest of the day; she'd be up for more activity but she doesn't demand it. This is typical for most of the working bred border collies I've met, as well as a couple of dogs that I've fostered. Sport bred dogs are legit crazy and AKC bred have drive all over the map. The exercise and energy requirements aren't all that different from the other sporting breeds.

My point still stands that labs in full spaz mode are a pain to live with.


Provided you don't get a low drive dog. Teaching a dog to get interested in toys, fetch, or running when they have no natural inclination that way is a giant pain in the rear end.

the higher a dog's drive the more likely it will be to incessantly harass you to do poo poo 24/7 and honestly good fuckin luck finding a low energy, high prey/toy drive dog. a low-moderate energy dog with a moderate interest in fetch (so like 80% of retrievers) is more than sufficient for most dog owners.

I honestly don't know why people are so insistent on round aboutly suggesting working line dogs to people who just want a dog bro who will do some activities on the weekend occasionally

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


couldcareless posted:

Meeko was limping last night and this morning. After some quick examination this morning before heading off to work, I noticed he has a damaged nail on one of his back paws. I failed to take a picture, but there's no bleeding or blood present at all and it appears to be more of a hang nail type situation. A lot of reading up on what to do seems to be worse scenarios than this and recommend a vet visit. Is the vet the right course of action here or should I give it a week and see if he heals up on his own?
The hangnail's not an issue (maybe keep him away from grass and mud for a couple days if it looks open at all), but he might have hurt himself doing whatever it was that caused it. If the limp doesn't go away quickly I'd take him in for a visit.

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

Triangulum posted:

the higher a dog's drive the more likely it will be to incessantly harass you to do poo poo 24/7 and honestly good fuckin luck finding a low energy, high prey/toy drive dog. a low-moderate energy dog with a moderate interest in fetch (so like 80% of retrievers) is more than sufficient for most dog owners.

I honestly don't know why people are so insistent on round aboutly suggesting working line dogs to people who just want a dog bro who will do some activities on the weekend occasionally

Greyhounds are often high drive, low energy dogs, and they're recommended pretty highly. However, a grey will not generally have good enough recall to go off-leash in an unfenced area and is not suited for any sort of distance running.

Labs get thought of as low energy because most lab owners keep them obese. Labs are legitimately high energy dogs, and young labs that get given up for 'not enough time' is usually code for 'will eat your house'. Labs and GSDs were some of my least favorite dogs to work with in the shelter because they tended to be over the top and mouthy.

As for lab mixes, all bets are off, but the most common mixes you'll see are lab/pit or lab/GSD, neither of which tends to lower energy levels.

If you want a dog that will chase a ball, get a dog that will chase a ball already. If you want a dog to run with you, get one that runs already. The more active things you want to be able to do with your dog, the more activity that dog will need on a regular basis. If you seriously think you'll do something active with a dog to the tune of an hour a day, with more on weekends, you qualify as an active owner and should be looking at higher-energy breeds.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
Maybe you and I have different definitions of high drive but never in a million years would I describe a grey as high drive.

The MUMPSorceress
Jan 6, 2012


^SHTPSTS

Gary’s Answer

Triangulum posted:

Take him to the vet you don't want that to get caught on something and tear even more.


Bark collars in general are pretty lovely and don't fix the problems they were intended to. Ecollars are a lot more complicated. They probably shouldn't be used for 99.9999999999% of things or on most dogs but if you have a dog that harasses livestock or chases cars or other very dangerous poo poo like that they can be useful. Using them to teach normal dog behaviors or gay sport stuff is lovely though. Regardless, if you're gonna use an ecollar on your dog have a well respected trainer teach you how to use one properly before lightin up your dog

Nobody knows how to use an ecollar right and it's annoying because they get pissy if you say anything. Obviously we stopped taking Worf to the park ages ago, but we'd been taking Thor on occasion still so he could get his "piss on an entire acre of everything" out of his system, but we stopped going because this lady was bringing her extremely excitable pit, and she'd just yak on the phone the whole time and if it started to charge another dog she'd just mash on the ecollar, which obviously just agitated and confused the poor thing causing it to start fights constantly.

Obviously you all know this, but an ecollar only works if you are loving watching intensely and hit it the moment the dog shows even that initial twitch of bad behavior. It snaps them out of a problematic thought process. It's not going to do poo poo if it's already decided to jump on another dog other than piss it off more.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
Almost every single person who uses an ecollar is a lazy fuckwit.They're a good tool for a tiny number of situations but lol at anyone bothering to figure out what those are or how to properly apply it. honestly its just better to assume youre too stupid to use one and leave them alone because if you do a lovely job you can legit ruin your dog for life.

AsYouWish
Nov 28, 2015

Engineer Lenk posted:

Greyhounds are often high drive, low energy dogs, and they're recommended pretty highly. However, a grey will not generally have good enough recall to go off-leash in an unfenced area and is not suited for any sort of distance running.

Labs get thought of as low energy because most lab owners keep them obese. Labs are legitimately high energy dogs, and young labs that get given up for 'not enough time' is usually code for 'will eat your house'. Labs and GSDs were some of my least favorite dogs to work with in the shelter because they tended to be over the top and mouthy.

As for lab mixes, all bets are off, but the most common mixes you'll see are lab/pit or lab/GSD, neither of which tends to lower energy levels.

If you want a dog that will chase a ball, get a dog that will chase a ball already. If you want a dog to run with you, get one that runs already. The more active things you want to be able to do with your dog, the more activity that dog will need on a regular basis. If you seriously think you'll do something active with a dog to the tune of an hour a day, with more on weekends, you qualify as an active owner and should be looking at higher-energy breeds.

if you genuinely believe the above i dont think you know what high drive and high energy actually are

Fluffy Bunnies
Jan 10, 2009

Engineer Lenk posted:

Went herding today with my dog for half an hour and she's been chilling in the house the rest of the day; she'd be up for more activity but she doesn't demand it. This is typical for most of the working bred border collies I've met, as well as a couple of dogs that I've fostered. Sport bred dogs are legit crazy and AKC bred have drive all over the map. The exercise and energy requirements aren't all that different from the other sporting breeds.

Border Collies are not sporting breeds. Do you know how much work herding for a half an hour is on a dog? Because holy poo poo that's enormous if that was all continous work. Ires works for about 25 minutes and then collapses.

And on non-herding days she frequently tucks her rear end under herself and charges through the hall with her eyes bugging out of her skull because running is Fun.

I've never seen a single work bred border collie that shouldn't be in a field somewhere tending a flock and then getting put back in it's kennel where it does endless laps waiting on release of herd animal. I'm glad you and fraction have, but that's not my experience at all.

I also think it's hilarious that you think greyhounds are high drive, low energy dogs.

Engineer Lenk posted:

Labs get thought of as low energy because most lab owners keep them obese. Labs are legitimately high energy dogs, and young labs that get given up for 'not enough time' is usually code for 'will eat your house'. Labs and GSDs were some of my least favorite dogs to work with in the shelter because they tended to be over the top and mouthy.

That's the same code as literally any other breed. Labs are not high energy dogs. Labs are retrievers. I'll give you that poo poo bred labs may or may not be spazzy, but hey look at my experience with your breed and welp. Also I'm glad you're not coming at this from a disproportionate view or anything, since you hate the breed. I think labs are boring easymode dogs that fit into shitloads of good situations because they're softer than butter on a summer day.

EXTREME INSERTION
Jun 4, 2011

by LadyAmbien
I love my boring rear end easymode butter dog

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax

EXTREME INSERTION posted:

I love my boring rear end easymode butter dog

Are you still doing nosework poo poo with him? I was enjoying hearing about his progress

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006
who wants an easymode dog, really

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
certainly not people who think they can save lovely fear biters with love and outside adventures~

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006

Triangulum posted:

certainly not people who think they can save lovely fear biters with love and outside adventures~

suarez is a brilliant striker though, so totally worth it

EXTREME INSERTION
Jun 4, 2011

by LadyAmbien

Triangulum posted:

Are you still doing nosework poo poo with him? I was enjoying hearing about his progress

still doing the teabags and occasional hide and seek in the woods...since hes now crate trained and calmed down a little, we are going to do a formal tracking course this summer once my thesis is finished :)

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006
there's a bunch of nosework training courses focused on finding edible mushrooms from the forest i've been tempted to try. dogs would p. like it and hey, would save me some trouble in finding mushrooms come fall.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
The Fenzi dog sport academy has a truffle hunting class if you're legit interested: http://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/index.php/courses/1983

EXTREME INSERTION posted:

still doing the teabags and occasional hide and seek in the woods...since hes now crate trained and calmed down a little, we are going to do a formal tracking course this summer once my thesis is finished :)

Cool, what kind of tracking are you looking at doing?

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Dyna Soar posted:

who wants an easymode dog, really

Me, for one.

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

Triangulum posted:

Maybe you and I have different definitions of high drive but never in a million years would I describe a grey as high drive.

In the context of what they were bred for, I was talking about chase drive (which can usually be turned into some sort of toy drive).

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
i know what you were talking about, i still think its asinine to describe a grey as high drive. A grey will chase a small animal, sure but compare that to the behavior of a high prey terrier or malinois when an obstacle is put between the dog and the prey. A grey will give up pretty quickly, the terrier or the mal will do everything in it's power to go under, over, or through the obstacle to get at it's prey even if that means chewing a hole in your wall or going to ground. That to me (and I would argue to most dog people) is the big difference between high drive dogs and other dogs - the focus and determination to execute a given goal. Just wanting to do the thing isn't nearly enough to qualify as high drive in my book.

Greys have some prey drive in them but high prey? Not a chance in hell.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
basically - if your dog wouldnt climb a 6' fence, dig a massive hole, barrel through a door, or jump off the roof to get at it's prey its not a high prey drive dog

The MUMPSorceress
Jan 6, 2012


^SHTPSTS

Gary’s Answer
to put another way, drive is a separate thing from instinct

a greyhound has the instinct to run and chase, sure, but a greyhound won't literally push you over and break through the window to chase something through the yard. a driven dog is like the one animal control just seized down the street from me, a pit-rotweiler mutt that broke through its owner's living room window when it saw a guy walking his pomeranian and tore that little thing to pieces right in front of its owner, then went after the guy's leg. when the owner came out and tried to get his lil' angel off of the man it was mauling, it just bit him too.

Fluffy Bunnies
Jan 10, 2009

Triangulum posted:

basically - if your dog wouldnt climb a 6' fence, dig a massive hole, barrel through a door, or jump off the roof to get at it's prey its not a high prey drive dog

Pfft dogs don't jump off roofs to get to stuff. Come on.

pookel
Oct 27, 2011

Ultra Carp

Fluffy Bunnies posted:

Pfft dogs don't jump off roofs to get to stuff. Come on.

Clearly you never met my grandpa's wire fox terrier. He could hit the top of the storm door when he lunged at the mailman. I learned early on never to open a door in that house without first locating the dog and then making sure he was restrained (by an adult - he'd just bowl a kid over).

Eta: note that fox terriers weigh like 20 pounds and are about knee-high to an adult.

pookel fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Feb 23, 2016

cyberia
Jun 24, 2011

Do not call me that!
Snuffles was my slave name.
You shall now call me Snowball; because my fur is pretty and white.
I'm not trying to troll with this question but honestly, what is the appeal of owning a dog with crazy prey instincts like that? Particularly if you're just a normal schlub living in the suburbs and not, like, a hunter or farmer or something. I like my 10 pound, easy-mode fluffball and even he can be a terror when he wants to be. I can't imagine owning an animal that I can't pick up and carry around and also wants to / has the capacity to chase and kill things.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
murder dogs are fun and interesting

also it can be good for dog sports or protection work if you're into that sort of thing

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



Why do some people ride motorcycles? Or do extreme sports? People like different things.

Plus once you've had a murderdog the stockholm syndrome sets in and you just keep getting them. If a dog doesn't think biting me in the face is the bestest thing ever why would I even want it???

Rurutia
Jun 11, 2009

cyberia posted:

I'm not trying to troll with this question but honestly, what is the appeal of owning a dog with crazy prey instincts like that? Particularly if you're just a normal schlub living in the suburbs and not, like, a hunter or farmer or something. I like my 10 pound, easy-mode fluffball and even he can be a terror when he wants to be. I can't imagine owning an animal that I can't pick up and carry around and also wants to / has the capacity to chase and kill things.

Yeah we weren't expecting that amount of prey drive with my terrier when we adopted him. He's extreme to the max, like he will climb on top of his wire crate twice as tall as him, and gingerly balance on the wires on two feet to push open a door to get to us. He goes bat poo poo insane if we dangle a toy in front of him.

The benefit is that because he's more persistent, he's creative with solutions and more interesting to train. My peek-a-pom is very food driven, but gets frustrated and gives up easily if she can't figure out what you're trying to get from her. We just have to control the prey drive by removing temptation (he only gets fluff toys to chase around for short periods, we keep him out of line of sight of bunnies/birds when we see him getting hyped up). It's manageable because he's tiny, and he's really adorable. But honestly, we adopted him because no one else was going to adopt a neglected, untrained, old terrier that needed cataract surgery.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax

Instant Jellyfish posted:

Why do some people ride motorcycles? Or do extreme sports? People like different things.

Plus once you've had a murderdog the stockholm syndrome sets in and you just keep getting them. If a dog doesn't think biting me in the face is the bestest thing ever why would I even want it???

p much

i have a stray we found who is a fairly lazy, cuddley couch potato with little desire for death and destruction and honestly it drives me loving crazy

Fluffy Bunnies
Jan 10, 2009

cyberia posted:

I'm not trying to troll with this question but honestly, what is the appeal of owning a dog with crazy prey instincts like that? Particularly if you're just a normal schlub living in the suburbs and not, like, a hunter or farmer or something. I like my 10 pound, easy-mode fluffball and even he can be a terror when he wants to be. I can't imagine owning an animal that I can't pick up and carry around and also wants to / has the capacity to chase and kill things.

I know farmers definitely need and want high prey drive dogs.

AsYouWish
Nov 28, 2015

cyberia posted:

I'm not trying to troll with this question but honestly, what is the appeal of owning a dog with crazy prey instincts like that? Particularly if you're just a normal schlub living in the suburbs and not, like, a hunter or farmer or something. I like my 10 pound, easy-mode fluffball and even he can be a terror when he wants to be. I can't imagine owning an animal that I can't pick up and carry around and also wants to / has the capacity to chase and kill things.

Its almost like people prefer and enjoy different things , wow

I own one hogging bred and one game bred pit bull and have been into apbts my entire adult life. I also own a farm and keeping them away from my livestock is constant work. Last month one of mine nudged open a cracked window, got on the roof, and then jumped from the second story of my house to the concrete driveway below so that he could go after my pigs. This is normal, moderate levels of prey drive for them.

I have them because the breed is my hobby and dogs with pet temperaments bore me out of my loving mind. I'd just as soon not have a dog than deal with bland pet temperaments, just as a lot of pet owners would not have a dog if they had to deal with one that jumped off of roofs. People have different wants and needs, wow

Organza Quiz
Nov 7, 2009


My mother has a maltese/shitzu fluffball who's about 10 months old now who I've asked a few questions about in the past here. Anyway, she used to be really good about calmly greeting me when I came to visit but lately she's been getting worse and worse about jumping and nipping at my clothes when I arrive and she spots me (she's deaf so she doesn't hear my car, she has to see it or me). My mother has been insisting that what I should do to stop her is shake my finger at her in the "no" gesture that she's been trying to teach her to recognise and apparently has been having some success with.

I don't have much experience with dogs but I do follow this thread and based on what reading I have done I thought that "no" is actually a pretty confusing concept for most dogs and I'm far better off trying the gesture for "sit" or "stay" to give her something positive to do instead of a general negative. I also recall "common wisdom" being to ignore a dog when they jump up at you so they learn they'll only get attention if they're calm, but I'm not sure if that's good advice or bullshit that people just believe. Everything is made more difficult by the fact that she has to be looking at me in order to see any commands at all and that can take a little while when she's really excited. I've been trying "sit" and she will eventually do it but only after a good like 10-20 seconds of jumping and nipping (to be fair at least she will only nip clothes and not skin but it's still not pleasant).

Does anyone have any advice on what the best thing is to do? Links to articles I can point my mother to would be especially helpful since she is a pretty reasonable person and will change her mind if I can back up what I'm suggesting, it's just that right now it's a case of my opinion against hers.

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang
Dec 28, 2007

Kiss this and hang

Hi all! Quick question which I'm sure doesn't have a quick answer.

I have a 6 year old chi/terrier mix that weights about 11 lbs. We adopted her about a year ago and she is one of those "easy mode" dogs. Just really the best dog ever.

However

We decided to foster through the same rescue we got her from and Sunday brought home "Happy". He's about 22 lbs and god knows what he is. They say Chi-something-lab, but swear it looks more like a puggle-chow. But that's really neither here nor there. He's 8 month's old and sweet as pie, however he is bigger than her and more rambunctious. She isn't very happy with the situation and in certain circumstances gets really growley and unhappy with him. leading to nips and (small dog) aggression.

The core of the problem is resource guarding the humans, the couch and not liking "rough house" play with the new dog while she's on the couch. I'm torn what method to use to modify the behavior. Should I carry bits of cheese around with me to distract her from becoming mad? or should I carry her away from the couch or person and put her in a seperate room for a short while?


Thoughts?

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
Don't get me wrong that behavior definitely needs working on (the book Mine! is a good, cheap resource for dealing with resource guarding) but it seems like kind of a dick move to foster dogs if it makes your existing dog miserable

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang
Dec 28, 2007

Kiss this and hang

Triangulum posted:

Don't get me wrong that behavior definitely needs working on (the book Mine! is a good, cheap resource for dealing with resource guarding) but it seems like kind of a dick move to foster dogs if it makes your existing dog miserable

This is day 2 of our very first foster. And she isn't miserable she just "isn't happy" with some of his behaviors most of which I mitigate by keeping him leashed to me. She hadn't displayed this behavior around other dogs before, of course this was not on her turf.

I'll check out mine! Other suggestions are welcome as well.

Fluffy Bunnies
Jan 10, 2009

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:

This is day 2 of our very first foster. And she isn't miserable she just "isn't happy" with some of his behaviors most of which I mitigate by keeping him leashed to me. She hadn't displayed this behavior around other dogs before, of course this was not on her turf.

I'll check out mine! Other suggestions are welcome as well.

I'd return the foster so he doesn't lose his patience with a small, snapping dog and tear her up. He's sweet as pie now but every dog has their limit.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

I'd be keeping the new dog behind crates and gates for a while so they can grow accustomed to each other. I'm pretty sure the OP has a protocol about how best to introduce dogs. Adapt that to your situation.

If your dog continues to resource guard, whoops, party is over. If a growl happens, I would gate the dog away from you. No anger, no intimidation, just "whoops" and get the dog out of there ASAP. In conjunction, keep cups of food around the house so you can reward polite behaviour and associate the new dog with tasty treats. Work hard to catch your dog being good and socially appropriate and reward effusively.

E: Oh, if either dog isn't enjoying the other's attention, try to redirect. Praise proper social cues from the dog who has to put up with whoever's poo poo. If the 'aggressor' doesn't cut it out, again, time to gate away from the family to cool down for a bit. Your resident dog doesn't have to put up with that. But it should be able to rely on you to deal with it.

Problem!
Jan 1, 2007

I am the queen of France.

cyberia posted:

I'm not trying to troll with this question but honestly, what is the appeal of owning a dog with crazy prey instincts like that? Particularly if you're just a normal schlub living in the suburbs and not, like, a hunter or farmer or something. I like my 10 pound, easy-mode fluffball and even he can be a terror when he wants to be. I can't imagine owning an animal that I can't pick up and carry around and also wants to / has the capacity to chase and kill things.

We adopted a cattledog from an adoption event and ended up foster failuring a second cattledog mutt. Neither time did we go out with the intention of acquiring a cattledog, they both just sort of happened to us. Are they easy? No. Are they fun? Definitely. I couldn't imagine having anything else. I would just get so bored with a drive-less lumpdog, but different people like different things.


Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:

Hi all! Quick question which I'm sure doesn't have a quick answer.

I have a 6 year old chi/terrier mix that weights about 11 lbs. We adopted her about a year ago and she is one of those "easy mode" dogs. Just really the best dog ever.

However

We decided to foster through the same rescue we got her from and Sunday brought home "Happy". He's about 22 lbs and god knows what he is. They say Chi-something-lab, but swear it looks more like a puggle-chow. But that's really neither here nor there. He's 8 month's old and sweet as pie, however he is bigger than her and more rambunctious. She isn't very happy with the situation and in certain circumstances gets really growley and unhappy with him. leading to nips and (small dog) aggression.

The core of the problem is resource guarding the humans, the couch and not liking "rough house" play with the new dog while she's on the couch. I'm torn what method to use to modify the behavior. Should I carry bits of cheese around with me to distract her from becoming mad? or should I carry her away from the couch or person and put her in a seperate room for a short while?


Thoughts?

You need to take three giant steps back and separate the dogs and do a slow introduction. You just came home with a brand new dog and plopped him down in your house and expected the resident dog to be ok with it. Even the most laid back dog is going to be a little bit WTF about a strange dog suddenly being all up in his territory.

Keep them separated in the house and take them for walks in neutral territory together till they get to know each other a bit then start letting them out in the house together.

Buce
Dec 23, 2005

My new critter. I'm enthralled.





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Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
Those are some serious eyelashes :3:

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