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Mine were fine in the summer, but in the winter I guess the plastic would shrink they'd flop all over the place.
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Feb 15, 2016 16:07
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Stupid wheel and tire newbie reporting in. My NC (w/ typical Koni+Progress suspension combo; drops about 1" from stock height) needs a new set of summer tires. I'm thinking of going from stock 17x7 to 17x8 while I'm at it. I've been looking at the Enkei PF01s (50mm offset.). I primarily use this thing as an expensive weekend toy for cruising and canyon runs. No DD, probably won't ever autocross it. Would it be better to go with 215 or 225 for 8"? I talked to the Good Win guys (they're a couple of miles from where I live) and they said 215 for more driving feel, 225 for more comfort. It seems that 215 would require a little stretch to fit, whereas 225s sit more flush. Most of Mnet seems to run 215s or 235/40, but then again, it's Mnet, so I'm not sure how trustworthy they can be as a reference source... 235/40 seems a bit much for non-race purposes. For the purposes of my car, are the differences between 215 and 225 so negligible that it would just boil down to tire options and prices?
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Feb 17, 2016 00:26
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My 225's are flush on 7.5 so on 8 they'll be a little in the stretched direction but it'll probably vary by manufacturer,
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Feb 17, 2016 00:48
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215s or 225s will be just fine on a 8" wheel. Get whatever has better tire selection, or will screw with your speed the least.
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Feb 17, 2016 03:15
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17" tires are a different game; people put 255s on a 9" wheel every day of the week with no issue. On the NA/NB chassis, people put a 205 on an 8" wheel and a 225 on a 9". I'm picking up 215/45R17s (up from 205/45) for my ND because it's $100/set cheaper and it's marginally wider on a 7" wheel.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:44
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Phone posted:I'm picking up 215/45R17s (up from 205/45) for my ND because it's $100/set cheaper and it's marginally wider on a 7" wheel.
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Feb 17, 2016 07:26
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CS autocross.
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Feb 17, 2016 07:38
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FatCow posted:215s or 225s will be just fine on a 8" wheel. Get whatever has better tire selection, or will screw with your speed the least.
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Feb 17, 2016 20:21
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5458669571.html 5-speed and no ABS though. Hmmmm....
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Feb 22, 2016 22:41
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The 6-speed is mated to a 3.909; it doesn't excel (more like accel) at anything in particular. The lack of ABS is fine. That's a clean looking car, you should pick it up.
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Feb 22, 2016 22:51
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drat that's cheap for the miles/condition/year... buy buy buy
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Feb 23, 2016 08:51
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Since we're posting possible buys... thoughts on this? http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5446852733.html
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Feb 23, 2016 17:27
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Check for rust. I don't think they get that much snow out in Elyria but it's still your major concern. Ask about the short nose crank as well. It's almost time to do the timing belt and water pump as well.
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Feb 23, 2016 17:34
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willroc7 posted:Since we're posting possible buys... thoughts on this? I see this all the time in Craigslists posts, but do people actually trade cars? I've literally never heard of anyone doing it in real life.
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Feb 23, 2016 18:30
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mariooncrack posted:Check for rust. I don't think they get that much snow out in Elyria but it's still your major concern. Ask about the short nose crank as well. Seller claims no rust. It is a SNC but he says no wobble. Water pump/timing belt supposedly done at 130k but no records. What would you offer?
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Feb 23, 2016 19:47
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willroc7 posted:Seller claims no rust. It is a SNC but he says no wobble. Water pump/timing belt supposedly done at 130k but no records. What would you offer? I wouldn't offer anything until you look at the car yourself. Sellers lie all of the time. Consider anything they say with a grain of salt. It looks like it's been driven in the winter, otherwise why would you put tires on it in the middle of February? If you're selling a car that needs tires, why not let the next owner take care of that? It's been a mild winter though so if this was the only winter it was driven in it might not be so bad. I would also take a look at the top and make sure it's in good shape.
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Feb 23, 2016 20:22
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If it doesn't have records, just assume it didn't happen. Fears about SNC are a little overblown, but is enough that I would hesitate to buy one unless the chasis was truly rust free. Maybe 2k? Again, check the whole bottom of the car for rust. Ask if it has AC, power steering, radio, etc I have seen an increase in NA Miata prices on Facebook groups lately; every seller seems to think they are rare now and worth a lot more then they probably are.
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Feb 23, 2016 21:16
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 Progress is slow but we are getting there! Transferred the wiring harness yesterday, pulled out the engine / trans today, and putting it in the black shell tomorrow!
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Feb 28, 2016 05:43
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Victim of another parking tragedy... this time I wasn't there Guy left a note, I'm in a rental car, but I thought I might you guys like to know the price (steadily increasing), we're at $2,600 right now and have not looked at the rear end yet. When I drove it home, it did not sound good (grinding sounds and such) Might have just been wheel well debris. I didn't see any though. So that's two collisions in 18 months vs no collisions during the other part of my life (miata less) hmmmm
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Mar 1, 2016 01:29
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This is a fun little series. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaeETZPdShsN8XtwhDKS-iVJZ38lKFKI9
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Mar 1, 2016 19:17
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poxin posted:This is a fun little series. That series of videos is better than anything that comes on tv for car shows. That dude was super meticulous too. I need to rewatch that.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:48
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So, are we not taking about the turbo Fiats that are getting revealed in Geneva? http://jalopnik.com/the-abarth-124-spider-is-the-turbo-fiat-miata-you-alway-1762122320 Miata + Italian styling is a hell yes for me.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:06
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The R-GT trim is a 300hp rally styled Fiata? Holy poo poo. Wonder how much it'll cost.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:24
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i'm lovin it
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Mar 3, 2016 02:30
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Contemplating selling my Turbo '92 Greddy miata - located in Wenatchee WA - 110k miles on it. It's a 10 footer car at best, but the car runs great and is well cared for. Had the turbo on the car for ~15k miles so it's all shaken down. I'm thinking asking $3500 would be good, sell the hardtop separately. Cars tend to be kinda expensive in the PNW, thoughts?
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Mar 3, 2016 19:43
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poxin posted:This is a fun little series. Those were excellent. Anybody know of anyone else on youtube I can follow with videos like these? Its such a nice change of pace.
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Mar 6, 2016 17:35
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n8r posted:Contemplating selling my Turbo '92 Greddy miata - located in Wenatchee WA - 110k miles on it. It's a 10 footer car at best, but the car runs great and is well cared for. Had the turbo on the car for ~15k miles so it's all shaken down. I'm thinking asking $3500 would be good, sell the hardtop separately. Cars tend to be kinda expensive in the PNW, thoughts? If the hardtop is red I'll buy it; I'm in Portland.
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Mar 6, 2016 18:36
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I installed a couple of convenience things on my NC today. TapTurn flasher relay. It replaces the factory flasher relay with something that can a) have euro style lane change turn signals where if you tap the stalk enough to not lock it into a direction it blinks 3 times and b) can handle LED lights without needing load resistors if I ever want to replace my bulbs with LEDs (I probably won't). The lane change thing is great because my Fiesta has it and my wife's Jetta has it so it has become habit to use it and I always attempt to use it in the miata and then remember it's not there and get annoyed. I also installed a proclip phone mount which is much better than the vent mount I was using on one of those floppy round vents in the dash. Overall they are both cool and I recommend.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:22
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Argh. I've got coolant leaking from somewhere. There's a bunch pooled up on that platform thing below there headlight on the passenger side. Current suspect is the overflow hose where it goes under the radiator support. There's coolant sprayed near the hood latch (which I found out that hard way. Ow) but the radiator cap looks brand new and seals tightly. Are leaks from between the plastic top part of the radiator and the metal part below it common? There's quite a bit of fluid in that insulation but it may just have dripped there from somewhere else.
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Mar 7, 2016 01:09
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GutBomb posted:have euro style lane change turn signals where if you tap the stalk enough to not lock it into a direction it blinks 3 times Oh, how I mildly hate those sort-of-auto-flasher things... I can see how it might be a good idea for some people, but unless all the cars I regularly drive would have it, I just find it to be a huge annoyance whenever I encounter one. And even if all were to have it, I still prefer the "manual" flasher. 
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Mar 7, 2016 09:13
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Welp I picked up another basket case Miata for $600 http://imgur.com/a/M21sf Clean title, straight shell (besides trunk lid) 1990 with a 1.8 engine swap, 1.8 brakes, upgraded sway bars, new clutch, aftermarket headers, super short shifter, and a extremely loud exhaust Definitely going to sell those wheels and bits I don't want/need. Not sure if I want to put all my good parts on to this gray car or continue with the shell swap
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Mar 7, 2016 11:25
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Great Beer posted:Argh. I've got coolant leaking from somewhere. There's a bunch pooled up on that platform thing below there headlight on the passenger side. Current suspect is the overflow hose where it goes under the radiator support. There's coolant sprayed near the hood latch (which I found out that hard way. Ow) but the radiator cap looks brand new and seals tightly. Are leaks from between the plastic top part of the radiator and the metal part below it common? There's quite a bit of fluid in that insulation but it may just have dripped there from somewhere else. Is the plastic on your radiator yellow or brown? Probably time to replace it and all the hoses.
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Mar 7, 2016 14:16
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Brown. Is that bad? E: all the replacements I see are black so I'm guessing that's bad. Any recommendations for a replacement or are they mostly identical? Great Beer fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Mar 7, 2016 |
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Mar 7, 2016 17:56
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They're mostly identical.
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Mar 7, 2016 18:09
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Internet forum hivemind says to get the one for an automatic miata because it has an extra row, or more fluid capacity, or something. Thats what i did. (a lot of metal radiators people get seem to suck so i went with the safe option)
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Mar 7, 2016 19:18
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blk posted:If the hardtop is red I'll buy it; I'm in Portland. It's black - would look OK on a red car.
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Mar 7, 2016 21:10
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 I think I was given the wrong part. My old radiator is on the right, new on the left. New has a pair of little connectors sticking out the bottom loosely covered by plastic caps. Old one doesn't have them at all. Can I leave them alone or run a hose between them or something so I can still use the radiator? Or will I need to exchange it? They're otherwise identical
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Mar 7, 2016 23:17
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Almost certainly for an automatic transmission - it cools the transmission fluid using the engine coolant instead of having a baby radiator for just the transmission fluid.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:23
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poo poo, that makes sense. Can I leave them alone or will I need to plug them with something?
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Mar 7, 2016 23:30
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| # ? May 13, 2024 22:29 |
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I'd cap them off.
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Mar 8, 2016 00:59
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