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Lord Zedd-Repulsa
Jul 21, 2007

Devour a good book.


Klungar posted:

Does anyone have any experience with Costco/Kirkland-brand versions of cat food? We've been feeding our two neutered male indoor only cats Blue Buffalo dry food since we got them, but now that we have a membership to Costco we were curious how their stuff measured up. I looked in the Pet Nutrition thread and didn't see Costco/Kirkland listed in there, so figured I'd just ask here.

It's pretty good. We use the orange bag for our three and they all have really soft coats and love to eat it. The rescue my wife and I volunteer with feeds their resident cats the purple bag kind and, cat specific health problems aside, it seems good to them too.

And on the dental work note, one of ours needed six teeth removed in September because of abscesses and other issues. She's missing her top canines now and the rest were molars. If we could've prevented that by having the money for preventative measures, we would've saved ourselves a lot of worry.

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Reik
Mar 8, 2004
So, we have 4 cats. A younger girl (Tipper) and boy (Carl) and and older girl (Blakely) and boy (Rodney). All four of our cats were front de-clawed when we adopted them. Rodney was our first and he developed a bad biting habit, which we suspect was a result of the de-clawing, so we adopted him since we figured most people wouldn't pick a biter. Since then we've only adopted already de-clawed cats to prevent any social imbalances.

The only issue we have behaviorally is Rodney isn't a fan of Carl. We've tried all sorts of reintroduction techniques and positive association stuff but no matter what Rodney will still go after Carl every once in a while. We know it's not just play because it ended up with Carl getting bitten on his tail and it abscessed. It's not an all the time thing, but when he fixates on Carl it's hard to get him to stop. Carl does feed in to it because he runs from Rodney if he does that angry meow at him, but he's been getting better. The current workaround has been to keep the older and younger cats separate when we're not home and when we are home we put Rodney in a walking harness which seems to make him less aggressive and when he does go after Carl his mobility is reduced enough that Carl can get out of his reach. We've tried putting Rodney on amitriptyline as well but it didn't seem to make any significant difference that would merit the potential side effects.

So, for a month or so Carl has been recovering from two infections after having his teeth cleaned, they thought he might have stomatitis so he was on an immunomodulator, so we've kept him with us in the master bedroom where the older cats usually stay. Because Blakely is very affectionate we kept her in with Carl and put Rodney out with Tipper. Rodney and Tipper will hiss and bat at each other if they get too close, but nothing beyond that. Also, when we're home we have just been keeping them separate to not add any more stress to Carl as he fights off the infections. Today, however, while I was making coffee I heard a lot of racket which is usually Tipper running around the house like a goofball, but then Rodney ran in to the dining room and jumped up on the table and Tipper came in chasing after him. Then he jumped down and ran in to the living room and Tipper chased after him. This is the first time we've ever seen Rodney play with another cat, it's always hissing or mounting behavior (poor Blakely). When Carl and Tipper are together they play with each other all the time so I'm hoping once Carl is all better we can start reintroductions and maybe Rodney will take better to him since he seems to be more socialized. Fingers crossed catgoons.

Reik fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Feb 18, 2016

Reik
Mar 8, 2004

Klungar posted:

Does anyone have any experience with Costco/Kirkland-brand versions of cat food? We've been feeding our two neutered male indoor only cats Blue Buffalo dry food since we got them, but now that we have a membership to Costco we were curious how their stuff measured up. I looked in the Pet Nutrition thread and didn't see Costco/Kirkland listed in there, so figured I'd just ask here.

Just looking at the ingredients online for their dry food 2 of the top 5 ingredients are rice. Cats do not eat rice. I would avoid it.

Ratzap
Jun 9, 2012

Let no pie go wasted
Soiled Meat

Reik posted:

Just looking at the ingredients online for their dry food 2 of the top 5 ingredients are rice. Cats do not eat rice. I would avoid it.

That's my reasoning for not getting the pouches 'with added vegetables' or listing peas/carrots as ingredients. Since I started growing my own veg 15 years ago, I've never had problems with cats munching on my crops. So I reckon they probably don't need that poo poo in their food - pity for the manufacturer really because it's probably cheaper bulking it out with veg than adding more of what cats actually need.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Ratzap posted:

That's my reasoning for not getting the pouches 'with added vegetables' or listing peas/carrots as ingredients. Since I started growing my own veg 15 years ago, I've never had problems with cats munching on my crops. So I reckon they probably don't need that poo poo in their food - pity for the manufacturer really because it's probably cheaper bulking it out with veg than adding more of what cats actually need.

The intestines of domestic cats are about 1/3 longer than those of wild cats because they've been living with humans and eating vegetable matter from their scraps for the past 10,000 years or so.

Cats do just fine with vegetable matter in their food. Their bodies have learned to rely on it, even. They're not vegetarians, of course, but up to a certain limit it is good for them.

Grain-free stuff being needed for cats has no basis in reality. It's pure mythology. The only reason to avoid a particular grain is if your cat has shown an allergy to it.

Reality
Sep 26, 2010
I tried feeding my cat meat-based dry food due to this thread but he almost refused to eat it. He would sit at his bowl and paw at the food and yowl at me so I got him back on his lovely pea meal dry stuff after 2 weeks and he was happy again. I tried to feed him better but he was having none of it.

I, Butthole
Jun 30, 2007

Begin the operations of the gas chambers, gas schools, gas universities, gas libraries, gas museums, gas dance halls, and gas threads, etcetera.
I DEMAND IT
Is there anything I can do if my male kitten is suckling on the female kitten other than separating them when I catch it happening? Luna (the female) seems pretty chill about it and she'll get up and leave when she's over it, but Bowie (the male) gets really insistent about doing it for a while, and he's loud enough while doing it that it wakes me and my partner up. From what I've seen, he really only goes for it when he's super content (ie, after chilling with us on the bed and getting pats) and Luna's the same - they'll be fine on other parts of the bed with us, and then after a few minutes of purring a switch will flip and he'll lock in and start trying to suckle.

Zaftig
Jan 21, 2008

It's infectious

I, Butthole posted:

Is there anything I can do if my male kitten is suckling on the female kitten other than separating them when I catch it happening? Luna (the female) seems pretty chill about it and she'll get up and leave when she's over it, but Bowie (the male) gets really insistent about doing it for a while, and he's loud enough while doing it that it wakes me and my partner up. From what I've seen, he really only goes for it when he's super content (ie, after chilling with us on the bed and getting pats) and Luna's the same - they'll be fine on other parts of the bed with us, and then after a few minutes of purring a switch will flip and he'll lock in and start trying to suckle.

That sounds pretty adorable! Is it just the sound annoying you?

One of my cats likes to suckle fabric, which was kind of gross on our clothes. She eventually fixated on a particular throw blanket and now it's fine, especially because she's usually a huge bitch but is super cuddly when suckling. I usually put the blanket over another blanket on my stomach when I'm going to sleep, and she's so fixated on suckling the blanket that she doesn't mind if wiggle a lot or if I roll over and hug her. The other cats would definitely not tolerate being little spoon. We always have a fan on for white noise so I can't hear her.

I, Butthole
Jun 30, 2007

Begin the operations of the gas chambers, gas schools, gas universities, gas libraries, gas museums, gas dance halls, and gas threads, etcetera.
I DEMAND IT

Zaftig posted:

That sounds pretty adorable! Is it just the sound annoying you?

One of my cats likes to suckle fabric, which was kind of gross on our clothes. She eventually fixated on a particular throw blanket and now it's fine, especially because she's usually a huge bitch but is super cuddly when suckling. I usually put the blanket over another blanket on my stomach when I'm going to sleep, and she's so fixated on suckling the blanket that she doesn't mind if wiggle a lot or if I roll over and hug her. The other cats would definitely not tolerate being little spoon. We always have a fan on for white noise so I can't hear her.

Yeah, it's just the noise - case in point it's like 5am and it just woke me up :( I just want to make sure that it's not going to cause ant health issues for Luna.

Reik
Mar 8, 2004

Deteriorata posted:

The intestines of domestic cats are about 1/3 longer than those of wild cats because they've been living with humans and eating vegetable matter from their scraps for the past 10,000 years or so.

Cats do just fine with vegetable matter in their food. Their bodies have learned to rely on it, even. They're not vegetarians, of course, but up to a certain limit it is good for them.

Grain-free stuff being needed for cats has no basis in reality. It's pure mythology. The only reason to avoid a particular grain is if your cat has shown an allergy to it.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22005439

http://jfm.sagepub.com/content/early/2012/05/30/1098612X12449702

tl;dr Cats get diabetes a lot easier than humans because they aren't built to handle carbohydrates.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Reik posted:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22005439

http://jfm.sagepub.com/content/early/2012/05/30/1098612X12449702

tl;dr Cats get diabetes a lot easier than humans because they aren't built to handle carbohydrates.

First study:

quote:

Insulin sensitivity was not different between the diets when cats were lean or overweight, but glucose effectiveness was higher after weight gain in cats fed the HCLP diet. According to the present results, LCHP diets fed at maintenance requirements might benefit cats with multiple risk factors for developing diabetes. However, ad libitum feeding of LCHP diets is not recommended as they have higher energetic efficiency and result in greater weight gain.

Low-carb diets make cats fat. Non-diabetic cats are better off with high-carb diets.

Second study:

quote:

This demonstrates that the duration of postprandial glycaemia in cats is markedly longer than in dogs and humans, and should be considered when managing diabetic and pre-diabetic cats.
If a cat is diabetic, the amount of carb in its diet should be considered when managing the disease. Not exactly Earth-shattering insight.

Your links don't seem to support the notion that carbs are harmful to cats.

Mister Kingdom
Dec 14, 2005

And the tears that fall
On the city wall
Will fade away
With the rays of morning light
I went to the Humane Society today not expecting to find anything, but this little devil had other plans:




I held her for a few minutes and put her back in her cage. She immediately reached out to me through the bars. When I put my fingers in the cage, she started licking and chewing on them. How could I resist that?

Even though they were having a free cat day, I donated double the usual fee anyway.

toe knee hand
Jun 20, 2012

HANSEN ON A BREAKAWAY

HONEY BADGER DON'T SCORE

Very fluffy. Good choice.

Alteisen
Jun 4, 2007

by FactsAreUseless
Took the cat back got the x-rays, turns out his teeth in the back where somehow cutting his gums leading it to be swollen back there so out they came, he had a cleaning and everything was fine with the rest of his mouth.

Here's hoping the problems are over.

Mango Polo
Aug 4, 2007
Dumb question. After Jacob came back from the vet & sedation, the other's been hissing at him for three days now. That was expected, but in the past they always got over it within a few hours.

Since Jacob pissed himself I want to give him a bath, but I'm wondering if that might make things worse between the two/prolong the scent issue?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Bathe all the cats. Together. :unsmigghh:

Blackchamber
Jan 25, 2005

Ok cat goons, I also have a cat now I got this week at the humane society. Her name is Ginny and shes about a year and a half old. Shes a sweetheart, a talker, and good god is she a climber. I bought her a cat tree to climb on which she does roost on a bit but if I'm in the bathroom shes on the sink watching me brush. The other day when I was cleaning she hopped onto the stove and that kind of scared me because if I'd been cooking she could have been hurt.

I've tried aluminum foil and it didn't even faze her. I bought some spray and put it on the counters, didn't bother her at all. I've also tried reasoning with her and that also didnt work.

Any other ideas?

Alteisen
Jun 4, 2007

by FactsAreUseless
So in non dental issues, a kitten just showed in my backyard, I'm trying to be-friend him and I can't help but notice that he's entirely cross-eyed in one eye, the other one seems fine but his left eye is like completely frozen in the cross eyed position, there's no gunk or anything and I can see the eye clearly but yea, the eye just doesn't move.

Should I be concerned while I get this animal to be my buddy?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Alteisen posted:

So in non dental issues, a kitten just showed in my backyard, I'm trying to be-friend him and I can't help but notice that he's entirely cross-eyed in one eye, the other one seems fine but his left eye is like completely frozen in the cross eyed position, there's no gunk or anything and I can see the eye clearly but yea, the eye just doesn't move.

Should I be concerned while I get this animal to be my buddy?

There are several people in the YOSPOS cat thread with cross-eyed cats. They don't seem to worry too much about it. The cats seem to get along just fine in life.

I don't think there's any actual treatment for it, or at least one that has enough benefit to be worth the bother and cost.

kaworu
Jul 23, 2004

Hey guys - my beloved Jackie-Cat has another UTI right now - her second in like 2+ years. She went to the vet yesterday, but they couldn't get a urine sample from her. However, as she is peeing on any and every dark-colored fabric or flat object that is left on the floor, I have managed to obtain a urine sample very easily. It's horrifying though, her urine is so dark yellow its almost red >_< The vet knew this already though when I brought in her in yesterday, and all I can do for now is give her antibiotics and use this dermal spray for her dermatitis around her genital area (which they thankfully shaved the fur off of at the vet).

Poor Jackie looks like she's in pain though :( I can tell. Especially at the vet when they were pressing around her abdomen and pressing on her bladder and she was clearly uncomfortable and shot me a *really* angry and hurt glare like "HOW CAN YOU LET HER DO THIS TO ME?!".

But she is getting a little better now, even though it's only been two days. Pilling her ranges from easy on a good day to downright traumatic and horrible. Jackie cannot be tricked into eating a pill in any way, so I basically have to do it the old fashioned way. And it's hard when you've got an extremely resistant cat who is kicking and fighting and trying to run away and hide.

So to pill her, I basically get her between my legs/knees when I am crouching/sitting so I have her locked down and have effectively taken her front and back paws our of the occasion, but she still squirms and fights like crazy. So I literally have to hold her entire head with one hand to keep it steady, while I pry open her jaws with the other hand as gently as I can even though she is resisting, and place the pill or half-pill in her mouth, then forcibly hold her mouth shut as I continue to hold her head up until she swallows.

It is really and truly a godawful procedure and I feel like this absolutely horrifically evil monster throughout the entire ordeal. And she really fights - it is *not* easy and it does *not* make me feel good.. It wasn't as bad today though, I got them in pretty quickly and it wasn't such an ordeal. So that's good..

This is fairly universal though, right? I mean... I don't know how else to pill a cat. I am envious of those people who can just use pill pockets and have them work.

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

kaworu posted:

It is really and truly a godawful procedure and I feel like this absolutely horrifically evil monster throughout the entire ordeal. And she really fights - it is *not* easy and it does *not* make me feel good.. It wasn't as bad today though, I got them in pretty quickly and it wasn't such an ordeal. So that's good..

This is fairly universal though, right? I mean... I don't know how else to pill a cat. I am envious of those people who can just use pill pockets and have them work.

Our cat is the same way. Even so, if she has to have pills for several days in a row she'll actually go to the designated Pilling Spot and wait. She really wants the treat she gets after, even though the struggle to get the pill down is usually as terrible as you describe.

Just remember that you're being as kind to her as you can in the circumstances.

Savings Clown
May 7, 2007

We all float down here

Blackchamber posted:

I've tried aluminum foil and it didn't even faze her. I bought some spray and put it on the counters, didn't bother her at all. I've also tried reasoning with her and that also didnt work.

Any other ideas?

Double sided tape stopped my cats climbing onto the TV basically overnight.

Blackchamber
Jan 25, 2005

Savings Clown posted:

Double sided tape stopped my cats climbing onto the TV basically overnight.

I'll have to try that then.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Blackchamber posted:

Ok cat goons, I also have a cat now I got this week at the humane society. Her name is Ginny and shes about a year and a half old. Shes a sweetheart, a talker, and good god is she a climber. I bought her a cat tree to climb on which she does roost on a bit but if I'm in the bathroom shes on the sink watching me brush. The other day when I was cleaning she hopped onto the stove and that kind of scared me because if I'd been cooking she could have been hurt.

I've tried aluminum foil and it didn't even faze her. I bought some spray and put it on the counters, didn't bother her at all. I've also tried reasoning with her and that also didnt work.

Any other ideas?

You could also try a SSSCat. My cat just basically avoid wherever it's placed now even if they dont trigger it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cphGWOPi0k

Jithendra
May 23, 2009

I, Butthole posted:

Is there anything I can do if my male kitten is suckling on the female kitten other than separating them when I catch it happening? Luna (the female) seems pretty chill about it and she'll get up and leave when she's over it, but Bowie (the male) gets really insistent about doing it for a while, and he's loud enough while doing it that it wakes me and my partner up. From what I've seen, he really only goes for it when he's super content (ie, after chilling with us on the bed and getting pats) and Luna's the same - they'll be fine on other parts of the bed with us, and then after a few minutes of purring a switch will flip and he'll lock in and start trying to suckle.

I have a rather timid male kitten who does this to his brother (who looks just like their mother). As far as I can tell, it's because when they were little, their mother was taken away from them before the suckling kitty was properly weaned. They're 5 months old now and hopefully he'll grow out of it, but I haven't been able to figure out any way to get him to stop other than just gently pulling him away, but then of course he'll go right back to it when I'm not there. I googled this a while back and found someone who had been making and selling little pillows with rubber nipples sewn into them for cats with similar problems, but apparently they're not being sold anymore. If I knew what kind of fabric was safe for kittens to suckle on, I would have made something like that myself... but as it turns out, we have to find a new home for these kittens anyway, because they give my partner really bad allergies.

But maybe something like that is what you'd want to look into.

SynthOrange posted:

You could also try a SSSCat. My cat just basically avoid wherever it's placed now even if they dont trigger it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cphGWOPi0k

I second the SSSCat recommendation. It works really well.

A word of caution about this, though... I made the mistake of getting a knock-off of the SSSCat called SenseEgg, because for some reason that's all the pet stores in my area carry. Don't buy that. The motion sensor on it is EXTREMELY over-sensitive, so the thing goes off for stuff way across the room. It went off enough times that the kittens just got used to it, and now it won't work to train them anymore, because they've figured out it's harmless. So order the real SSSCat over the internet if you can't find it locally—the difference in effectiveness is huge.

Blackchamber
Jan 25, 2005

SynthOrange posted:

You could also try a SSSCat. My cat just basically avoid wherever it's placed now even if they dont trigger it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cphGWOPi0k

I saw that on amazon but I saw a bunch of reviews saying that the sensor either breaks in a couple days or is too sensitive/not sensitive enough. Sounds like it worked for you so maybe I'll pull the trigger on this too since it seems cheaper on amazon than my local pet store.

Braki
Aug 9, 2006

Happy birthday!

kaworu posted:

Hey guys - my beloved Jackie-Cat has another UTI right now - her second in like 2+ years. She went to the vet yesterday, but they couldn't get a urine sample from her. However, as she is peeing on any and every dark-colored fabric or flat object that is left on the floor, I have managed to obtain a urine sample very easily.
How do they know it's a UTI without a urine sample?

Puppy Galaxy
Aug 1, 2004

kaworu posted:

Hey guys - my beloved Jackie-Cat has another UTI right now - her second in like 2+ years. She went to the vet yesterday, but they couldn't get a urine sample from her. However, as she is peeing on any and every dark-colored fabric or flat object that is left on the floor, I have managed to obtain a urine sample very easily. It's horrifying though, her urine is so dark yellow its almost red >_< The vet knew this already though when I brought in her in yesterday, and all I can do for now is give her antibiotics and use this dermal spray for her dermatitis around her genital area (which they thankfully shaved the fur off of at the vet).

Poor Jackie looks like she's in pain though :( I can tell. Especially at the vet when they were pressing around her abdomen and pressing on her bladder and she was clearly uncomfortable and shot me a *really* angry and hurt glare like "HOW CAN YOU LET HER DO THIS TO ME?!".

But she is getting a little better now, even though it's only been two days. Pilling her ranges from easy on a good day to downright traumatic and horrible. Jackie cannot be tricked into eating a pill in any way, so I basically have to do it the old fashioned way. And it's hard when you've got an extremely resistant cat who is kicking and fighting and trying to run away and hide.

So to pill her, I basically get her between my legs/knees when I am crouching/sitting so I have her locked down and have effectively taken her front and back paws our of the occasion, but she still squirms and fights like crazy. So I literally have to hold her entire head with one hand to keep it steady, while I pry open her jaws with the other hand as gently as I can even though she is resisting, and place the pill or half-pill in her mouth, then forcibly hold her mouth shut as I continue to hold her head up until she swallows.

It is really and truly a godawful procedure and I feel like this absolutely horrifically evil monster throughout the entire ordeal. And she really fights - it is *not* easy and it does *not* make me feel good.. It wasn't as bad today though, I got them in pretty quickly and it wasn't such an ordeal. So that's good..

This is fairly universal though, right? I mean... I don't know how else to pill a cat. I am envious of those people who can just use pill pockets and have them work.

Yeah you're pilling her right. Some cats do better than others. It's no fun for all involved but luckily cats are dumb and forget all about it.

Robo Kitty
Sep 5, 2011

There was a POST here. It's gone now.

kaworu posted:

This is fairly universal though, right? I mean... I don't know how else to pill a cat. I am envious of those people who can just use pill pockets and have them work.

Have you tried using a pill shooter? I find it's a bit easier than the direct "shove pill in mouth" route.

Alteisen
Jun 4, 2007

by FactsAreUseless
Anyone advice on giving liquid medicine to a cat?

Dental issues kitty needs 2ccs of Clyndamicin every 12 hours as part of his recovery/tooth removal but he's HORRIBLE to give medicine to, I've never seen a cat fight so much and he's a goddamn mule in terms of size so getting a handle on him is hard as hell, we even wrapped him in a big rear end industrial raincoat and he'd still get loose.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Some liquid meds I've managed to mix into cat food, but others are too strong tasting to mask and had to just wrestle into submission.

There's always administering it rectally. :v:

Soaring Kestrel
Nov 7, 2009

For Whiterock.
Fun Shoe
I'm looking at getting a second cat.

My wife and I found a lovely, affectionate shelter cat whose blurb claims that she's very affectionate and loves multiple-cat households, but decided to hold off on an immediate adoption until we got a Feliway diffuser and got the house set up to accommodate a second cat. We also have some concerns.

- Our current cat (also a shelter cat) has never been in a multiple-cat household, so we're not sure how the cats will get along. I've got a socialization plan set up based on things I've read in this thread, but if things don't work out after a couple weeks, do shelters usually take cats back? Is this something that I should even be worrying about right now?

- Where should we put the Feliway? Should it be on the "new cat" floor or the "existing cat" floor? Our resident fuzzball doesn't go upstairs very often (read: once a month or so).

- We have a litter box upstairs and a litter box downstairs. Should we get second upstairs and downstairs litter boxes or are cats typically pretty okay with just one per floor?

I can't think of anything else that I really, really wanted to ask about, but I wanted to get those out of the way immediately. Does anyone have any advice for these?

kaworu
Jul 23, 2004

Robo Kitty posted:

Have you tried using a pill shooter? I find it's a bit easier than the direct "shove pill in mouth" route.

Oh man, I am totally getting one of these - just the possibility of it working is worth ~$5. I am always terrified to death that I am somehow going to harm her teeth or god knows what because it's such a physical thing, pilling a cat and having to repeatedly put this pill in her mouth that she repeatedly spits up and all... Oof.

And I appreciate people letting me know that I'm not doing anything unnecessarily brutal to my cat, there just seems to be no other way to administer antibiotic pills to a cat who is clever enough to eat the pill pocket treat while spitting out the pill. Almost makes me wish I had a dumber cat.

But it's amazing, she really doesn't seem too bothered by it. Last night was another unpleasant and difficult pilling session, which again wound up with, like, the fur on Jackie-cat's jaw being literally wet with saliva from spitting the pill-halves out so many times. But right after, she ate kitty treats right out of palm of hand, chirping happily, and let me clean her up a bit. I mean it seems like the whole thing is ultimately more traumatizing to *me* than to her!


Braki posted:

How do they know it's a UTI without a urine sample?

Well, Jackie did pee on the little white blanket that I put in the Cat Carrier for her, and she could see that that was red. It was evident that the skin was irritated all around the area. She was peeing outside her box at home which is highly irregular. When the vet examined her she was clearly in pain when pressure was put on her bladder. I mean, they got a urine sample from her like 2 years ago that confirmed she had a UTI back then, and she is having literally identical symptoms this time around. So I don't think it was too hard for her to make a pretty strong diagnosis, but then, I am not a vet (obviously) and am simply surmising and defending my doctor, because I want to think she was right, for obvious reasons.

And Jackie *is* getting better after ~4 days of antibiotics, she doesn't seem to have pain when urinating anymore as she is back to using her box and doesn't have to pee like twice an hour for a tiny bit anymore. She is also eating way more and fully has her appetite back. I think this whole drat thing was my fault for accepting someones advice that "just a little dry food on occasion" would be a good thing because of her teeth. But this seemed to happen pretty shortly I started giving her some dry food and I kinda almost don't think it's a coincidence. The vet certainly thought that the dry food was the culprit. And Jackie IS unfortunately obese at 14.8 pounds, but then she was like 18.5 pounds when I got her, and unable to clean herself without flopping over. I'd *love* to get her weight down, but it's tough - I am a but of a pushover :(

And I will conclude yet another one of my overly wordy posts with a pic, this time! A lovely close-up portrait of Jackie I took with my phone; I really don't think an iphone can take a better catface pic than this.



She's such a beautiful kitty :swoon:

Pig Head
Mar 9, 2006

He'll bite your face

SynthOrange posted:

Some liquid meds I've managed to mix into cat food, but others are too strong tasting to mask and had to just wrestle into submission.

There's always administering it rectally. :v:
My older cat, Chicken, was prescribed fish oil (bottle of liquid, 1/2 pump/day) because she has issues grooming herself due to a spine injury last year and she refuses to have anything to do with it even when I mix it with tuna. She's very old and already on predisone every other day for her spine/mobility issues so I don't want to torture her with forcing fish oil down her throat too but I don't see another way of getting her to take it!

Obligatory chickenpic:


Poor lady is at least 17 and is having a heck of a time getting around but thankfully she uses the stairs I got her. Some progress. 85% of the time she's acting like a retard but the other 15% is heartbreaking. The vet said overall she's ok and doesn't seem to be in much pain but I'm not sure how much I buy that.

Reik
Mar 8, 2004

Alteisen posted:

Anyone advice on giving liquid medicine to a cat?

Dental issues kitty needs 2ccs of Clyndamicin every 12 hours as part of his recovery/tooth removal but he's HORRIBLE to give medicine to, I've never seen a cat fight so much and he's a goddamn mule in terms of size so getting a handle on him is hard as hell, we even wrapped him in a big rear end industrial raincoat and he'd still get loose.

Are you good at scruffing? The way the vet showed us how to do it is scruff em, and the trick is getting the syringe pretty far in to their mouth so you can get the medicine past their tongue. If they can't taste it as much there's less frothing and general badness. We were giving Carl 1cc of antibiotics twice a day with this and it worked out well.

Fragrag
Aug 3, 2007
The Worst Admin Ever bashes You in the head with his banhammer. It is smashed into the body, an unrecognizable mass! You have been struck down.

Chili posted:

That sounds a lot like a URI (upper respiratory infection). I would call up the vet and describe the symptoms, if it sounds fishy they'll have you bring her again and you can get the right meds.

I will say, having fostered tons of cats and kittens, URI's are really really common when you get a cat that's coming from any kind of facility like that. Wouldn't surprise me at all. Meds can clear that all up in a week's time or so and all you'll have to deal with is runny poops.

Hey, it indeed was a URI! It was touch and go for a bit, she stopped eating for a day and the vet was a bit puzzled by why she suddenly stopped eating while she ate well while she was under his care. Turned out she developed an abscess in her throat, so she was only licking her food dry.

By chance, we had actually named her Chili, what a coincidence.

As she's healing, her personality is starting to come through and it seems she's just a little kneady girl


I'm on the other side of the world at the moment working on a school project so my girlfriend has been taking care of her and by god do I miss both of them so much. :(

Rotten Red Rod
Mar 5, 2002

So I've read the advice in the FAQ about male cats marking, but nothing has helped and we're kind of at our wits end with one of our cats. He's spraying CONSTANTLY, all over the place, and I just can't pin down what it is we need to do to stop him. This morning I cleaned up the worst I'd ever seen - he sprayed the entertainment center (one of his favorite spots) so badly it looked like someone had dumped a glass of water out on it.

He's a neutered male cat, about 3-4 years old. Super incredibly friendly towards all people, and does ok with other cats - there's a (spayed) female cat that he actually raised from a kitten who is his best friend now.

He recently had a UTI issue that required an emergency vet visit and he's now on special urinary food and needs to be fed separately from the other cats - once we discovered his issue, I thought that was what had been causing the spraying, but now it seems like it's behavioral, and maybe based on anxiety about food now that he can't eat anytime he wants. We saw him start spraying after one of the other cats went over to eat the scraps out of his bowl, so that seems like part of it - but even now that we put his bowl away after he's done and before letting other cats out, he keeps spraying.

He's got multiple spots he likes spraying - his favorites are the entertainment center, the bookshelf, the laundry basket, everywhere in the laundry room where 2 litterboxes are, the bathroom carpets, and the shoe rack, although he'll randomly do it in other places too. We've tried to be vigilant about cleaning up using Nature's Miracle, but there's always one spot we haven't found - and even after I'm confident I've cleaned up every spot I could find, he'll start spraying again immediately. He's not shy about it either - he'll be friendly and purring and affectionate and then walk right over and start spraying in full view of me.

We tried a Feliway diffuser for a month, we tried adding and moving litterboxes, we tried new litter, we tried separating the cats in different ways, we tried letting him outside more to get out his energy, we tried playing with him more, we tried feeding him more so he wasn't hungry all the time. Is there something I'm missing, some other detail that might unlock the key to his anxiety? Do we just need to take him to the vet at this point and get him on kitty Xanax or something? Please PI, be my Jackson Galaxy.

Rotten Red Rod fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Feb 23, 2016

Reik
Mar 8, 2004
Do you have a UV light? If so I'd check around the outside of the house and make sure strays aren't coming up and spraying on your house. If they are he could be responding to them. Especially if you let him outside and he met some un-neutered strays around his territory.

Rotten Red Rod
Mar 5, 2002

Reik posted:

Do you have a UV light? If so I'd check around the outside of the house and make sure strays aren't coming up and spraying on your house. If they are he could be responding to them. Especially if you let him outside and he met some un-neutered strays around his territory.

We do have a UV light for looking for where he sprayed, but we haven't checked the outside, no. What would we even do about that if they are spraying around the outside of our house?

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The blue bunny
May 29, 2013

Rotten Red Rod posted:

We do have a UV light for looking for where he sprayed, but we haven't checked the outside, no. What would we even do about that if they are spraying around the outside of our house?

something like ths
http://www.amazon.com/ScareCrow-Motion-Activated-Animal-Repellent/dp/B000071NUS

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