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Well I got that hose off. So now I am ready and pumped. I use the new low profile ratchet and attach it to the socket. Now it is time to unscrew the bolt and- MOTHERFUCKER! IT IS STILL TOO THICK TO FIT THOUGH! Well I just try one of those new wrenches the stores recommended me and-gently caress I CAN'T MOVE IT AT ANY ANGLE! I unfortunately have to wave the white flag with this. I really tried and even gained a lot of comfort with working with fuses and working from under the car. However, I just don't know how to get to the bolt. I'll just call a place to diagnose my car. This is too risky for something that could not even be the issue.
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Feb 21, 2016 21:38
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Where is the bolt you're having trouble with? I don't remember having this much trouble except sometimes with that white clamp thing you just defeated.
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Feb 22, 2016 01:11
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^ Seconded, granted its been a while but last time I did the fuel pump the retaining bolt was wide open and was never an issue for me.
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Feb 22, 2016 01:41
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I need some used car buying advice. Is it better for me to get a low mileage older car with a little more horsepower or should I get a low mileage newer one that sips fuel? Specifically, I'm looking at a 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7L V6 with 76,500km on it and a 2010 Ford Fiesta 1.4L with 82,568km on it. I know they're not exactly cars that people cross shop, but they're the ones which appeal to me budget-wise and aesthetics-wise. I'm mainly concerned with reliability. If I can keep the car for 3+ years hassle free I'll be happy.
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Feb 22, 2016 06:32
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Which is more important to you, power or economy? That's not subverting we can answer for you.
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Feb 22, 2016 07:02
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Power is more important to me, but I prize reliability over power and economy.
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Feb 22, 2016 07:16
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huhwhat posted:Power is more important to me, but I prize reliability over power and economy. Luckily, the 2.7 equipped has neither reliability, power or economy! They're a fickle, somewhat fragile engine prone to annoying issues that never go away, they're buzzy and thirsty and you're always amazed that you aren't just driving a king-size 4 cylinder. Three years hassle free is some pretty long odds: no warranty, terrible QC in that era, objectively a poor vehicle even discounting any reliability talk. Source: lost count of how many KM sportages I've worked on  Fords are mostly poo but sometimes OK but I don't deal with them lots. If power is important to you neither of those cars have it I don't think, in the sense that neither feel grunty or feisty to drive. Both have 'enough' power for modern traffic or a car full of people and not much else.
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Feb 22, 2016 08:18
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Thanks for the reply. Another goon mechanic recommended against Kia due to reliability issues, and my friend told me that trying to insure a 10+ year car isn't going to be pretty, so I'm not even going to bother to take a test drive in the 2005 Sportage. If the 2010 Fiesta has enough power in modern traffic with 5 people in it, I'm happy. I mean I care about power, but not so much that I'm willing to break my budget and/or deal with reliability issues.
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Feb 22, 2016 10:50
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huhwhat posted:Power is more important to me, but I prize reliability over power and economy. This doesn't make sense. "Power is more important but reliability is more important." Get the fiesta. Or a Miata.
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Feb 22, 2016 11:25
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Dear AI goons, I am currently working at getting my old 98 Dodge Dakota (SLT 3.9L V6 Magnum - 4x4) up and driving after having it parked for about two years. So far, the results have been good. I'm at a point now where when I drive it around, it feels like the back driver's side wheel is dragging, though I'm told it turns. Also the issue seems intermittent, as I've tested the truck 3 times, but the issue only showed up twice (the first and last). I suspected a seized brake initially, but I was able to remove the drum with only minor difficulty, and the wheel doesn't turn freely at all even when in neutral. I vaguely remember the rear wheel turning freely the last time I did work on it. Is this a problem with the diff, or is there some way the e brake could be stopping the wheel from turning even though the drum is off? Might it be the bearing? What are the other potential causes for this? Or is this straight up in my imagination. Thank you for your time.
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Feb 22, 2016 16:17
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2006 Mitsubishi evo wont start. Will not turn over and I dont hear the (loud) fuel pump priming, so i dont suspect a starter problem. Ignition fuse is in good shape. Battery reads 14v. Any ideas?
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Feb 22, 2016 16:29
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ROFLburger posted:2006 Mitsubishi evo wont start. Will not turn over and I dont hear the (loud) fuel pump priming, so i dont suspect a starter problem. Ignition fuse is in good shape. Battery reads 14v. Ignition switch.
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Feb 22, 2016 16:31
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CADPAT posted:Dear AI goons, Lift truck on jackstands and spin wheels in neutral. Dodge 4x4s eat the front axle shafts (usually passenger) and cost $200 a piece. Enjoy!
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Feb 22, 2016 16:58
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09 Forester w/65k miles. Just started feeling like it couldn't shift well from 1st to 2nd. It'll jump up to 4k RPM when the automatic should shift up,and then when it does shift it's very harsh, like dropping the clutch in a manual. At low RPMs at stop lights etc it sometimes feels like it's about to stall, shuddering and uneven. It drives fine at higher speeds, nothing unusual above 15 mph. Shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th in sport mode or automatic fine. Gonna bring it somewhere soon since wife doesn't trust it to drive, just wondering if anyone had a guess. I don't know much about automatic shifters, but if it were a manual I'd swear there was something off with the clutch or 1st gear.
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Feb 22, 2016 17:10
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Christobevii3 posted:Lift truck on jackstands and spin wheels in neutral. Dodge 4x4s eat the front axle shafts (usually passenger) and cost $200 a piece. Enjoy! Can you clarify that? Maybe I wasn't specific, but I lifted the rear driver side on a jack stand and it won't turn in neutral. Are you suggesting I lift all 4 wheels on jack stands or just the back 2? Would the front axle shaft cause the problem in the back?
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Feb 22, 2016 19:23
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Pander posted:09 Forester w/65k miles. Just started feeling like it couldn't shift well from 1st to 2nd. It'll jump up to 4k RPM when the automatic should shift up,and then when it does shift it's very harsh, like dropping the clutch in a manual. At low RPMs at stop lights etc it sometimes feels like it's about to stall, shuddering and uneven. It drives fine at higher speeds, nothing unusual above 15 mph. Shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th in sport mode or automatic fine. It doesn't really sound like low fluid - but it's always worth checking the fluid level before you take it to the shop. There should be a dipstick for the transmission towards the rear of the motor, near where the rubber air intake hose attaches to the intake. Check it with the transmission warm, engine running in park and see what you have.
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Feb 22, 2016 22:58
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E:this is directed at CADPAT Lift the rear end, spin both wheels. With both up, as you spin one the other should spin backwards; the driveshaft shouldn't spin at all even in neutral, since the other wheels resistance is lower than the shaft. If your right wheel causes the shaft to turn, and you can't turn the other, somethings probably borked inside the axle. That's if you have an open diff, if it's limited slip both wheels should turn forward while the shaft rotates in neutral, and in park they'll still rotate opposite but in opposite directions. On drums the parking brake just operates the shoes with separate cable, if you were able to get the drum off it's not that. Try putting the truck in drive with both rear drums off and see if the hubs rotate at the same speed (they should). E2: check the fronts, too, it could be one of them is dragging. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 22:59
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Does $900 seem like a reasonable rate for a timing belt, water pump, and crankshaft/camshaft oil seals on a 2001 Lexus ES300 (1MZ-FE)? This is from a reputable shop with a good warranty on their stuff.
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Feb 23, 2016 01:10
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Considering that is probably $300+ in parts, fluids, and a ton of labor that is a good price.
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Feb 23, 2016 01:55
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0toShifty posted:It doesn't really sound like low fluid - but it's always worth checking the fluid level before you take it to the shop. There should be a dipstick for the transmission towards the rear of the motor, near where the rubber air intake hose attaches to the intake. Check it with the transmission warm, engine running in park and see what you have. The transmission fluid is good already checked it. As for everyone else, I will take further steps to diagnose based on your advice. Thank you. I never considered that I would have to take both off the ground, and to check the front.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:37
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0toShifty posted:It doesn't really sound like low fluid - but it's always worth checking the fluid level before you take it to the shop. There should be a dipstick for the transmission towards the rear of the motor, near where the rubber air intake hose attaches to the intake. Check it with the transmission warm, engine running in park and see what you have. It's pretty much empty. I saw some speckles of liquid. Wife thinks there's a leak, because we see some blackish liquid on the tubes underneath that area. Wiping it away comes dark red. So assuming it's very low to empty, and that I drove on it Saturday for like 2 hours to and back from a hiking trail, how bad would it be to drive it about 5 miles to the best local subaru fixit place? And how hard is it to fill the fluid? It says to add necessary amount in through the gauge hole. I don't have any tools or anything. I'm guessing I'd need a funnel, also figure out how much to add.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:43
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Pander posted:And how hard is it to fill the fluid? It says to add necessary amount in through the gauge hole. I don't have any tools or anything. I'm guessing I'd need a funnel, also figure out how much to add. If it's anything like my folks '11, super simple. Funnel and pour. Go slowly as to not overfill. Check frequently. Like, pour 1/4 quart, check, repeat.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:52
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Since the Lexus HS has the same drivetrain as the Camry Hybrid, is it expected to be as reliable and trouble-free?
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Feb 23, 2016 04:02
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Pander posted:It's pretty much empty. I saw some speckles of liquid. Wife thinks there's a leak, because we see some blackish liquid on the tubes underneath that area. Wiping it away comes dark red. A funnel that fits your dipstick tube costs $1.49 - and it's a good thing to have. I'd dump a quart in it and drive it to the shop to see why it is leaking. Your transmission takes Subaru-HP ATF - you're probably not going to find this at the car parts store. They will have Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle - and that does meet Subaru's specs. The dipstick measures the top quart of fluid. If the fluid is halfway down the stick - add half a quart of fluid!
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Feb 23, 2016 04:03
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VERTiG0 posted:Since the Lexus HS has the same drivetrain as the Camry Hybrid, is it expected to be as reliable and trouble-free? Yes.
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Feb 23, 2016 06:15
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I have a 10 year old Subaru and am starting to get concerned about the rubber that seals the frameless windows. It doesn't have much play in it and I think it might start cracking if I leave it alone. What's the best rubber protectant/rejuivnator out there? From some quick googling 303 Aerospace Protectant and Silicon Grease keep coming up. Any thoughts? If you'd go with Silicon Grease -- what brand would you buy? There are a ridiculous amount of choices on Amazon.
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Feb 23, 2016 08:50
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The only rubber "rejuvenator" that has worked for me (for old, hard carb boots) is Methyl salicylate (wintergreen oil). I mix it with xylene to speed the absorption process. Seriously don't get it on your skin, though. PROTIP: when searching for bulk quantities, use "methyl salicylate" and not "wintergreen oil," and you'll find much larger amounts for cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/Methyl-Salicy...thyl+salicylate
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Feb 23, 2016 08:56
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How horrible of an idea is to use stop leak on a radiator? Car ('05 GTO) has under 60k miles but the drat radiator has a leak hidden somewhere under all the other crap around it. It's an intermittent leak too--if I drive easy on it I don't notice anything, but after longer drives I'll see wetness on the bottom of the radiator and drips of coolant from underneath the car. I've spent weeks trying to track it down but just can't find it without ripping it all out (which I don't have the time to do right now). I've at least ruled out the simple stuff like hoses, coolant overflow tank, etc. These cars are known for having poo poo radiators and GM apparently shipped them from the factory with stop leak pellets in the coolant (gives you a sludgy brown junk on the coolant level dipstick, right from the factory). Would I really regret it if I put in a can of Bar's stop leak as a last ditch attempt to give me more time? The problem is I have to echeck the car next week and the battery has been unhooked for a while so it needs to be driven a few hundred miles to get the OBD readiness flags set. However I don't want to drive it hundreds of miles with a coolant leak. I know stop leak isn't a permanent fix and I'm going to have to replace the radiator soon and flush the whole system, however I'm hoping I can get a few more months of time with it. As far as the water pump goes I replaced it at 40k miles because it was leaking like crazy from its weep hole. So I know the pump is in good shape and not a rusty ticking timebomb that the stopleak might screw up.
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Feb 23, 2016 20:03
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mod sassinator posted:How horrible of an idea is to use stop leak on a radiator? Car ('05 GTO) has under 60k miles but the drat radiator has a leak hidden somewhere under all the other crap around it. It's an intermittent leak too--if I drive easy on it I don't notice anything, but after longer drives I'll see wetness on the bottom of the radiator and drips of coolant from underneath the car. I've spent weeks trying to track it down but just can't find it without ripping it all out (which I don't have the time to do right now). I've at least ruled out the simple stuff like hoses, coolant overflow tank, etc. These cars are known for having poo poo radiators and GM apparently shipped them from the factory with stop leak pellets in the coolant (gives you a sludgy brown junk on the coolant level dipstick, right from the factory). You're just going to be adding problems in the long term by using that stuff.
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Feb 23, 2016 20:11
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Your cars head gasket will haunt your car for doing that.
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Feb 23, 2016 22:44
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I'm curious what kinda problems can stop leak cause for the head gasket? For what it's worth this car has already had a head gasket done. Happened before I owned it but I can see a record of it being done as warranty work around 15k miles.
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Feb 23, 2016 22:50
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These are the dash buttons from a Series 4 Lotus Esprit: Anyone know what car they were partsbinned from?
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Feb 23, 2016 22:57
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mod sassinator posted:I'm curious what kinda problems can stop leak cause for the head gasket? Stop leak will get into the smallest areas and plug them. This could be the place your system is leaking from. It could also be fluid passages within the system, preventing it from actually cooling your engine.
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Feb 23, 2016 23:24
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So my mechanic told me that my 280zx needs a new front left spindle. Now not only am I 100% on what that actually is, he can't find it anywhere and neither can I. So where do I turn to for parts that seemingly no longer exist? I've called every junkyard and emailed a few Zcar clubs to no avail
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Feb 23, 2016 23:49
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Razeem posted:So my mechanic told me that my 280zx needs a new front left spindle. I'm surprised you can't find any, but one option is to try Datsun 510 groups, I believe they cannibalise 280 suspension to modify theirs. You may also find people referring to it as a front knuckle or front upright, or selling struts with the whole assembly.
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Feb 24, 2016 00:23
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Paging Jeep people. 1995 Jeep Cheroke XJ 4.0L auto. It needs a LH engine mount. The rubber is knackered and it was one of the items it failed inspection on. Is this the correct mount? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MACKAY-LH-ENGINE-MOUNT-JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-1993-1995-4-0L-A5305-/141857107987
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Feb 24, 2016 00:56
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Uthor posted:Stop leak will get into the smallest areas and plug them. This could be the place your system is leaking from. It could also be fluid passages within the system, preventing it from actually cooling your engine. Also your heater core. Hello cold air all winter!
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Feb 24, 2016 02:08
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Razeem posted:So my mechanic told me that my 280zx needs a new front left spindle. Get in contact with awesome z in houston. Do you know if 260z spindles will work? How much are you looking to spend? My dad has a 260z he's dragging down there for parts and getting his 240z restored. http://www.awesomez.org/
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Feb 24, 2016 02:18
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wrong thread
Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Feb 24, 2016 |
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Feb 24, 2016 02:51
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| # ? May 22, 2024 08:47 |
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Enourmo posted:listen I know attitudes toward pot are changing but right now, today, pot is still illegal in florida. more than 20g is a felony, and from what I've seen I'm confident there's enough that if just the two of us got raided the cops could divide it between us and get us both for felony possession. Ok. But where exactly do you think your are RIGHT now?
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Feb 24, 2016 02:55
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