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Nobody here has any idea what the hell you're trying to build.
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Feb 25, 2016 22:09
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Gounads posted:Nobody here has any idea what the hell you're trying to build. I don't really have pictures or anything to make it easy to visualize. As close as I could find, I'm trying to do something like this, but on a very, very, tiny, safe scale. Make a small igniter, pass current through igniter, apply gas fuel, instant flame. On a scale of like, camping stove. I don't really know how else to describe it in a way that I haven't already. 
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Feb 25, 2016 22:28
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Honestly, that Instructables you linked has a really good writeup about using nichrome wire. Try that.
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Feb 25, 2016 22:32
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neogeo0823 posted:Per the guy at the hobby shop, I hooked it up to a single AA battery, whereby it slowly began to glow red hot, but didn't get hot enough to ignite the fuel. I then tried hooking it to a D cell battery, hoping the extra current would help, and while it did get red hot faster, it also failed to ignite the fuel. A D cell isn't going to give you any more current than an AA, it's the same voltage. A D cell just has more energy stored in it. quote:Then, I though "why not increase the voltage, as well?" and hooked it to a 9V battery, and it instantly burned itself out. I'm pretty sure I can go higher current, and maybe slightly higher voltage than the D cell to get it hotter, If 9V is too much, and 1.5V is too little, you could give 3V a try by sticking two batteries in series. Isobutane is just butane (there's no propane in there), and the autoignition temperature is 460C. Glow plugs for real grown-up diesel engines hit way hotter than that, but you're going to need a hefty power source to drive them, since they're expecting either a good several amps at 12 or 24 volts in order to hit 800C+ in about 20 seconds.
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Feb 25, 2016 22:38
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Phanatic posted:A D cell isn't going to give you any more current than an AA, it's the same voltage. A D cell just has more energy stored in it. This is just plain wrong. Current is not voltage, and a D-cell will absolutely provide more current than an AA.
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Feb 25, 2016 22:43
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Phanatic posted:A D cell isn't going to give you any more current than an AA, it's the same voltage. A D cell just has more energy stored in it. If a D cell really worked better than an AA, then try a rechargeable AA or two. NiMH batteries have an even lower internal resistance than a D cell alkaline.
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Feb 25, 2016 22:44
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Safety Dance posted:Honestly, that Instructables you linked has a really good writeup about using nichrome wire. Try that. I did try it, with the glow plugs I bought from the hobby shop. After reading that instructable, I think it may not have worked well because I had placed the coil directly in the middle of the gas. I'll try one that's half-in-half-out when I next get the chance and see if that fares any better.
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Feb 25, 2016 22:59
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neogeo0823 posted:I did try it, with the glow plugs I bought from the hobby shop. After reading that instructable, I think it may not have worked well because I had placed the coil directly in the middle of the gas. I'll try one that's half-in-half-out when I next get the chance and see if that fares any better. Do you have air in the mix where you are trying to ignite? Remember your fire pyramid!
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Feb 25, 2016 23:22
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Phanatic posted:If 9V is too much, and 1.5V is too little, you could give 3V a try by sticking two batteries in series. RC glow plugs generally want 1.5V-2V; there's a good chance 3V will fry it (although the internal resistance of an alkaline might be high enough to save it). A fully charged NiMH AA would probably be sufficient, two in parallel would be able to run longer. Lithium AAs would work better.
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Feb 25, 2016 23:41
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Did everyone miss where I said to use an electric match? 
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Feb 26, 2016 01:08
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kid sinister posted:Did everyone miss where I said to use an electric match? I saw it, it's just that the ones I googled all looked like one-time-use things, whereas I'd like this to be reusable. I'll definitely be making some of them for this year's fireworks fun on the 4th of July though.  XmasGiftFromWife posted:Do you have air in the mix where you are trying to ignite? Remember your fire pyramid! What's the safest/preferred way to do that? I'm assuming it's something to the effect of "cut a small vent hole in the line a few inches before the end that will be ignited"?
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Feb 26, 2016 02:36
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neogeo0823 posted:I saw it, it's just that the ones I googled all looked like one-time-use things, whereas I'd like this to be reusable. I'll definitely be making some of them for this year's fireworks fun on the 4th of July though. Then you're pretty much screwed. About the only way to ignite a fire via electricity quickly is either through a spark gap, or a sacrificial short via a piece of nichrome. Even dangerously high powered LED lights take time to heat up. You'd blind yourself before you'd feel the heat. Also, you have weird ideas about "silent ignition". The only ways I know of to start a fire quickly are all audible, if not from the ignition source, then it's the very fuel lighting that makes noise.
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Feb 26, 2016 04:06
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Crack the glass bulb off a brake light, and feed the raw filament incrementally higher voltages until it's hot enough to light the gas. But really, spark gap. They run like 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit, right?
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Feb 26, 2016 14:02
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How about an arc lighter? Not silent, but just a quiet whine.
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Feb 26, 2016 14:57
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kid sinister posted:Then you're pretty much screwed. About the only way to ignite a fire via electricity quickly is either through a spark gap, or a sacrificial short via a piece of nichrome. Even dangerously high powered LED lights take time to heat up. You'd blind yourself before you'd feel the heat. I just dislike spark gaps for 2 reasons. They're not always reliable(think those long candle igniters), and the noise the spark makes is loud and annoying. When I say silent, I'm not talking completely silent, just that I don't want that annoying *tick tick tick tick* sound. Flipperwaldt posted:How about an arc lighter? Not silent, but just a quiet whine. This, however, is an interesting lead I hadn't considered yet. Youtube's got an interesting video of a guy breaking one down. As long as the whine isn't too loud, it might work for what I want, so I'll hit up the various smoke shops around me this weekend and do a bit of research before I order one off Ebay or wherever for cheap.
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Feb 26, 2016 16:01
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I'm trying to unclog a drain at father in law's house. I can see a giant hairball in the drain. The cover doesn't have any screws. I've tried popping it out with a screwdriver and also pulling it up with some pliers but all I succeeded in doing was breaking a small piece in the middle. Any advice?
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Feb 26, 2016 16:35
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vulturesrow posted:I'm trying to unclog a drain at father in law's house. I can see a giant hairball in the drain. The cover doesn't have any screws. I've tried popping it out with a screwdriver and also pulling it up with some pliers but all I succeeded in doing was breaking a small piece in the middle. Any advice? Go to the home improvement store's plumbing section and buy a short disposable plastic snake. It'll be about a 1 foot strip of spikey plastic, usually sold next to the drain cleaners. You can even get one bundled with drain cleaner, if you want to make that drain really clean. e. Found one on Amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/Joyoldelf-R...rds=drain+snake
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Feb 26, 2016 16:37
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n.. posted:This is just plain wrong. Current is not voltage, and a D-cell will absolutely provide more current than an AA. Of course current isn't voltage. Cell voltage is dependent upon the battery chemistry, not upon the physical size of the cell. An alkaline AA battery is 1.5 volts, an alkaline D battery is 1.5 volts. Into the same resistance load, each battery will provide the same current. Captain Cool posted:D cells have lower internal resistance, so they can sustain higher power better than an AA. Except for that, yeah, but the difference is miniscule. Checking Energizer's data sheets, both their Ds and their AAs have the same nominal internal resistance. The difference is that a D has 18000 mAh capacity and the AA has 3000. The D can sustain higher power for longer because it stores more energy, not because it's delivering a higher current or or has a lower internal resistance. Phanatic fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Feb 26, 2016 |
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Feb 26, 2016 16:49
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vulturesrow posted:I'm trying to unclog a drain at father in law's house. I can see a giant hairball in the drain. The cover doesn't have any screws. I've tried popping it out with a screwdriver and also pulling it up with some pliers but all I succeeded in doing was breaking a small piece in the middle. Any advice? Post a picture
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Feb 26, 2016 16:55
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I was more referring to getting the drain cover off since I've now broken a small piece of it. 
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Feb 26, 2016 17:07
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Post a picture This Only covers I can think of either have a screw in the center or just pop up off. Is it metal or plastic? Have you tried using a small pick or hook to get under it and lift it straight up from underneath? I just can't envision what you might be talking about otherwise, unless it's cemented in place with glue or something.
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Feb 26, 2016 17:18
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Oh I thought he meant he was trying to pop the hairball out with a screwdriver / pliers.
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Feb 26, 2016 17:22
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Phanatic posted:Except for that, yeah, but the difference is miniscule. Checking Energizer's data sheets, both their Ds and their AAs have the same nominal internal resistance. The difference is that a D has 18000 mAh capacity and the AA has 3000. The D can sustain higher power for longer because it stores more energy, not because it's delivering a higher current or or has a lower internal resistance.
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Feb 26, 2016 17:57
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OSU_Matthew posted:This  e: I managed to get the cover off. It was one that just pried off, I was just being a bit of a Nancy with it initially. vulturesrow fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Feb 26, 2016 |
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Feb 26, 2016 19:03
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vulturesrow posted:
No worries, I'm always paranoid about breaking hidden fasteners or something when disassembling stuff too. Doesn't help that one time I hulked loose the passenger door handle on my buddy's GM Envoy (though I strongly suspect that it came that way from the factory).
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Feb 26, 2016 22:26
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vulturesrow posted:I was just being a bit of a Nancy with it initially. Excuse me 
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Feb 26, 2016 22:35
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 I was in my basement and saw this. How much of a problem is this, what needs to be done to fix it, and how much approximately would it cost? I checked the other ones and they're okay.
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Feb 28, 2016 16:20
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Hackan Slash posted:
Not a licensed anything, just have some small experience doing construction. You should get that fixed; it's probably not going to cause immediate problems but it's putting extra load on the adjacent joists and doing a lovely job of supporting the floor above it. And it's only going to get worse as time goes on. Fortunately, you can just put in a new joist next to the old one, maybe bolt the two together at intervals. Unfortunately, a) this may require jacking up the floor a bit (or it might not!), and b) you'll probably have to cut all those electrical cables so you can run them through newly-drilled holes in your new board. So you'll also need an electrical box or two to put the splices in. The materials costs for this job wouldn't be huge; probably under $50. Labor would of course be more expensive. I don't have any idea how to estimate that.
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Feb 28, 2016 16:43
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Hackan Slash posted:
Is that hot water pipe now load bearing when you stand on the floor above it?
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Feb 28, 2016 17:53
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Hackan Slash posted:
Yes, it needs to be fixed. How much it will cost depends on how long of a span that joist is and access to install a new one next to it (i.e. "sistered" to it, bolted if not glued and bolted). If there are more pipes under it or more electrical through it could get messy. That drop ceiling is likely going to need to come down (to some extent, hopefully the joists are running perpendicular to the removable cross beams of the grid and then you'll only need to take down a row or two) unless there is a lot of open access on the other side. Your floor also needs to be jacked back up to where it supposed to be to properly install the new one. It's not a "right now" thing, but it should be a "soon" thing.
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Feb 28, 2016 20:27
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I'm looking to strip paint off some wood work in my house. Its older so most likely its latex on top of some lead based. Do any of the low fume options work? The reviews I read vary so widely as to be useless. Are there any goon favs? Is it not worth like everyone keeps telling me?
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Feb 28, 2016 23:22
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What kind of woodwork? Are we talking something flat that you can mostly sand/scrape or contoured things like molding? The former is not so bad. The latter can be pretty awful, especially if you're trying to do it in-situ where you're also trying to live. Unless it's something special it's often easier (and almost always cheaper and certainly less time consuming) to replace.
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Feb 29, 2016 06:24
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H110Hawk posted:Is that hot water pipe now load bearing when you stand on the floor above it? Luckily it's not. Glad to hear it's not a sign of imminent collapse, only relatively soonish collapse. I've got my contractor buddy to come over this Friday and help me fix it. He seems to think it's no big deal, which is encouraging.
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Feb 29, 2016 13:00
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Motronic posted:What kind of woodwork? Are we talking something flat that you can mostly sand/scrape or contoured things like molding? Molding, yeah - everyone keeps telling me its just not worth it, but I continue to hope.
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Feb 29, 2016 14:27
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Dukket posted:I'm looking to strip paint off some wood work in my house. Its older so most likely its latex on top of some lead based. Do any of the low fume options work? The reviews I read vary so widely as to be useless. I bought some eco paint stripper at home depot, white tub with a green lid for removing latex paint from a brass mail chute. I can't find the exact product on their website, but it worked really well. Applied like a paste, let it sit for 5 minutes and then the paint came off very easily. No odours or anything I was pretty impressed. Lead based paint comes with its own pile of worries, test kits are cheap.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:01
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sirr0bin posted:I bought some eco paint stripper at home depot, white tub with a green lid for removing latex paint from a brass mail chute. I can't find the exact product on their website, but it worked really well. Applied like a paste, let it sit for 5 minutes and then the paint came off very easily. No odours or anything I was pretty impressed. Ah, I'll look for it thanks. I know there is lead paint - the place is over 100 years old. Probably has a few layers of it.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:36
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Captain Cool posted:We're dealing with the same thing in one of our bedrooms right now. Stages so far:  How much wallpaper glue do we need to remove before painting over it? Please don't say every last bit because at this point it's holding on to the paint more strongly than the paint is holding on to the wall.
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Mar 1, 2016 00:57
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We have a two story house that had a brick addition added on the main floor. The addition has a foundation (the basement runs the complete footprint of the original house + addition). However the addition does not have a second floor and had a walk-out deck from the second floor on top of it. We are interested in adding a second floor to the addition to add a room on the second floor. My understanding is that we need to first determine whether the foundation can handle a second floor before pursuing a general contractor. Who do we consult for this assessment?
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Mar 3, 2016 21:27
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Structural engineer and then an architect.
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Mar 3, 2016 22:52
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This is the end of my driveway. Is there anything I can do to make it look less awful until we can afford to have the whole thing repaved? Other than refilling the gravel. Is there some kind of sealing/patching I can do myself?
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Mar 6, 2016 17:50
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