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Handguards or no handguards on my new naked?
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Feb 23, 2016 23:58
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| # ? May 16, 2024 14:49 |
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Hand guards, they look badass on all bikes
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Feb 24, 2016 02:30
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Go with the handguards, cause why not?
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Feb 24, 2016 03:00
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I was literally just having this conversation with a friend about their naked literbike. The conclusion was that it would look mean as all get out, plus the obvious protection and moose mitt compatible advantages. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Hand guards, they look badass on all bikes
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Feb 24, 2016 03:42
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Do hand guards do anything to protect the bike? I just bought a new fz07 and I'm in 'add sliders to every surface of the bike' mode
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Feb 24, 2016 07:44
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if they're barkbuster type with actual armor bends and then the shield bolted on then they'll do a pretty good job protecting the control levers and throttle and to a minor degree act as bar end sliders
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Feb 24, 2016 08:04
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At the very least, when you have a mild crash you can avoid breaking levers and have a higher chance of limping home. Levers are basically breakaway on impact, and handling a bike without a clutch is no fun. Plus they protect from some wind and keep your hands warmer. You can also put mitts over them for the winter. Looks great, too.  
Coydog fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Feb 24, 2016 |
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Feb 24, 2016 08:05
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Bad pic, but it's true. Handguards own.
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Feb 24, 2016 08:16
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 I think they're pretty useless for weather protection when you need it, and block wind when you need that. And at least with the factory Ulysses guards, they break away and rotate off the lever pretty easily so I wouldn't rely on them in a crash.
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Feb 24, 2016 18:20
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Well that's an easy decision then. All that remains is brand/style. I can get the black, Trackside (cyclegear brand) bark busters with full bars and everything for $25, or order up some Cycras or Acerbis. Would definitely remove those Trackside stickers, though. http://www.cyclegear.com/TRACKSIDE-Aluminum-Handguard-Kit-with-Shields
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Feb 24, 2016 19:02
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I run these: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1036/9533/Tusk-Aluminum-Handguards They are minimalistic, beefy as hell (you could seriously hang the bike from them without bending them), cheap, and tusk makes larger guards that bolt on to them that will block wind if you want that as well
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Feb 24, 2016 20:35
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I run these: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1036/9533/Tusk-Aluminum-Handguards  That's exactly what I had on my last bike too, they worked great protecting the handlebars on my klr from going down off-road
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Feb 24, 2016 21:12
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can someone recommend a frame / spool / fork slider brand for the FZ-07? I want to go with the same brand for all three if possible
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Feb 24, 2016 21:50
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Shogun
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Feb 25, 2016 01:19
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A MIRACLE posted:can someone recommend a frame / spool / fork slider brand for the FZ-07? I want to go with the same brand for all three if possible A lot of guys like the One Eleven Sportbike (OES) setup. Comes in a handy kit (at the bottom): http://www.oesaccessories.com/2015-2016FZ-07.html Or buy all the Woodcraft stuff.
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Feb 26, 2016 05:16
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VERTiG0 posted:A lot of guys like the One Eleven Sportbike (OES) setup. Comes in a handy kit (at the bottom): http://www.oesaccessories.com/2015-2016FZ-07.html Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for! Can't wait to crash this beast
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Feb 26, 2016 06:24
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So I'm having a little trouble getting my bike started. With everything off the battery is at 12.6 and drops to 10.5 when I hit the starter button. Is this an acceptable range? For what it's worth I've put new sparkplugs in, there's gas in the tank, it's not the side stand/clutch switch, and it's only been sitting for a month.
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Feb 27, 2016 18:32
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RIP Battery.
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Feb 27, 2016 18:38
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I thought 12.6 was acceptable as a resting charge? What should it be when I hit the starter? 12 still?
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Feb 27, 2016 19:03
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brotastrophe posted:I thought 12.6 was acceptable as a resting charge? What should it be when I hit the starter? 12 still? 12.6 is fine as a resting charge, but with no load the battery will always float back up to that value unless it's truly and completely dead. The amount that the battery drops when the starter is pulling its current will vary with the size of the battery, the starter motor, the engine compression, etc. But in general a new battery will drop less than 1v (so 11.6) under that load. 2v is pushing it. If it's below 10 volts when cranking, the battery is pretty much shot. That said, if your charging system is good, you can get away with a lovely battery for way longer than you'd expect. The battery in my car is technically dead according to the tester at the mechanic's, and I can kill it to a non-starting state if I leave the headlights on for half an hour, but it still starts the car just fine every time so I'm now just kind of morbidly curious to see how long I can keep it for.
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Feb 27, 2016 19:30
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So I unfortunately have not been able to ride too much this winter, my bike is not for commuting its for fun and I have been super busy. I keep my bike totally covered but I noticed today that 1) it has accumulated a lot of "hard dust" and 2) it has developed rust spots all over the metal parts of the bike (handle bar, fender etc). So obviously I imagine to take care of the dust a damp wash cloth should do fine but what should I do about the rust spots?
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Feb 27, 2016 21:49
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A damp wash cloth/scotchbrite pad will probably also do for the rust, as it's most likely just surface rust.
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Feb 27, 2016 21:54
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Knifegrab posted:So obviously I imagine to take care of the dust a damp wash cloth should do fine but what should I do about the rust spots? Rub the rust spots with aluminium foil. Be amazed.
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Feb 27, 2016 23:47
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HotCanadianChick posted:Rub the rust spots with aluminium foil. Be amazed. Don't do this on parts that aren't chromed!
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Feb 28, 2016 04:08
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How much wind is it just unsafe to ride in? I know it's probably a whatever l feel is safe answer but I had probably the worst riding experience of my 8 months experience yesterday in winds that were gusting to like 35. I ride a Ninja 650 and felt like I had to hard lean just to try and stay on a straight path and even then I was still getting blown all over the road. The Harley riders I was with basically thought it was funny and that I was just being a pussy since I'm still so mostly new. I've ridden in sort of high winds before but I usually keep it to cities or short rides during that time. Is it just an experience thing or will winds that high just be a problem for a bike like mine?
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Feb 28, 2016 12:17
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Gusty winds are way worse, since they hit you out of nowhere and force you to compensate randomly. Constant winds are easier in that regard. Unfortunately, you are correct, it's all about what you're comfortable with. As with most things regarding modern tire technology, you'd probably be shocked at how much crosswind they can take before they lose traction (probably close to tornado weather), but unfortunately, this is something that is very tough to test, and there is no conclusive data on, as far as I'm aware. Obviously, as you found, it depends on a few things, primarily is bike weight/height, which is why the Harley's were mostly unfazed while your ninja was getting thrown around. Then there is road conditions, I would be much more worried about gusty wind if it was combined with a wet road. Then there is rider skill as well, if you ride in a lot of wind frequently, you get used to it and it gets easier. This is the part you have some control over. So it really does boil down to  mostly
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Feb 28, 2016 14:18
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The trick with wind (like just about everything else on bikes) is to stay loose.
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Feb 28, 2016 16:41
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Alright this is driving me crazy. Can't get my bike started. Battery is ok (took it to advance and it tested fine). I can get a spark, fuel pump sounds like it's working, it's cranking so it's not a side stand/clutch sensor or something and it's only been like 2 weeks since it ran. Only thing I can think of that I messed with was when I rerouted the throttle cables for new handlebars. Am I missing something stupidly simple here?
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Feb 28, 2016 17:06
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what make/model/year bike my advice for these situations is: starting fluid. Hit it with the ether and see what the results are.
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Feb 28, 2016 17:21
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Marxalot posted:The trick with wind (like just about everything else on bikes) is to stay loose. Stay loose and put your weight on the windy side to compensate. I've even stuck a leg out like a sail to pull the bike to one side but keep myself going straight. Like ol silly balls said, it's the gusts that are the scary bit, but if you stay loose and don't worry about it blowing you around a bit, it's not so bad.
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Feb 28, 2016 17:28
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EX250 Type R posted:what make/model/year bike 07 sv650
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Feb 28, 2016 17:30
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nsaP posted:Stay loose and put your weight on the windy side to compensate. I've even stuck a leg out like a sail to pull the bike to one side but keep myself going straight. Like ol silly balls said, it's the gusts that are the scary bit, but if you stay loose and don't worry about it blowing you around a bit, it's not so bad. Yeah. Use your leg as a sail on the side the wind is coming from. Works well.
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Feb 28, 2016 17:38
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brotastrophe posted:07 sv650 Try spraying some flammable poo poo in the intake while cranking to see if it's a fuel issue?
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Feb 28, 2016 18:47
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:That's a shame, if it had been a GSXR, then your username would have delivered in this situation. No luck there
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Feb 28, 2016 19:01
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If you're getting fuel (or something flammable) into the cylinders and your spark is fine, I think the only thing left is "timing badly hosed up" or "no compression." Take out a spark plug, press your finger over the hole, and crank the engine. Does it blow your finger off with a loud POP? Do that for both cylinders. My bet is that it's electrical, though, just because every time the first guess is fuel, it's actually electrics and vice versa. e: dumb question maybe, but when you redid your throttle grip, did you mess with the killswitch wiring at all?
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Feb 28, 2016 20:30
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Kill switch? Since you played with the throttle and presumably the throttle housing, did something get messed up in there? E:same as above If it didn't start after you sprayed ether or carb cleaner or whatever in the intake, AND you have spark, you either don't actually have spark, or something pretty serious is going on. Since you have a relatively new SV, im going to say it's not catastrophically failing unless it has a trillion miles or you beat the absolute snot out of it for those trillion miles. I'm betting you have something much more simple that is going on. Start by examining the kill switch. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 28, 2016 |
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Feb 28, 2016 20:50
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I'm betting you have something much more simple that is going on. Start by examining the kill switch. For example, it may be in the "off" position.
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Feb 28, 2016 21:02
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If the kill switch was on it wouldn't be cranking at all. Same with clutch or kick stand sensor. That's why this is frustrating!
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Feb 28, 2016 21:48
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Many (most?) bikes will still crank with the kill switch off. Mine certainly does. It just disables the ignition system. Are you sure the spark is good and strong? How did you test it? You can verify that it's strong enough by pouring some gasoline in a bucket, putting the spark plug down in there on its lead, and cranking the motor for a while. If it blows up, you're good to go.
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Feb 28, 2016 21:51
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| # ? May 16, 2024 14:49 |
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Sagebrush posted:Many (most?) bikes will still crank with the kill switch off. Mine certainly does. It just disables the ignition system. Neither of mine do anything when you hit the killswitch. No starter noise, nothing. Do you own a buell?
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Feb 28, 2016 21:57
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