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Ugh, browsing this thread makes me want to restart my Gunpla hobby, grab a MG Tallgeese, acquire a MG Tallgeese 3 somehow, and try airbrushing my models for once.
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Mar 1, 2016 09:35
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Midjack posted:Is that supposed to be all three at the same time? No, but the suit it's based on is. The FOX HOUND is an extra-shooty custom version.
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Mar 1, 2016 12:30
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Is there a way to buy the little protective cover that comes with God Hand nippers by itself? I am tempted to buy the GH just for that cuz it's neat and seems better than wrapping a rubber band around my nippers to keep it closed.
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Mar 1, 2016 14:53
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TaurusOxford posted:MG Gundam X is not better. Don't listen to blitzblast's inevitable lies. Watch your back.  Ignimbrite posted:Yeah, Gundam Double X is even better than Gundam X MG DX actually is better but still you should totally get MG X just on principle.
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Mar 1, 2016 16:21
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Oh the Fox Hound is 37 bucks from good game ininite. That's not too horrible a price I think.
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Mar 1, 2016 17:26
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Ka0 posted:Oh the Fox Hound is 37 bucks from good game ininite. That's not too horrible a price I think. When the retail price is 10bux, that's pretty steep. Just hit up Samueldecal.
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Mar 1, 2016 18:37
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The Muffinlord posted:Nobody mentioned how the V-fin looks like a cowboy hat. I didn't think I could want it more, but then...
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Mar 1, 2016 23:34
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:When the retail price is 10bux, that's pretty steep. Just hit up Samueldecal. I have no idea on how to order from samuel decal. I sent a couple of emails a year ago about some decals but never got an answer.
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Mar 1, 2016 23:40
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Is there a good place to buy stickers for specific kits? I lost the sticker sheet for my Turn X.
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Mar 2, 2016 00:11
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So, gently caress FUUUUUUCK I was working on redoing the thigh part of my Papillon project, when I looked inside and saw that the polycap housing had completely cracked, causing the polycap itself to fall out and be useless. I checked its cannibalized spare, and that one cracked and fell out from the top just with a little modest movement of the polycap within its normal range. So as I embark on dropping dosh for another Qubeley Papillon (unless anyone has one partially built or at least un-stickered for me to buy) I ask this: is there any way to increase the strength of the polycap holes? I'm not looking for much, just enough to stiffen them without being too brittle.
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Mar 2, 2016 00:11
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Ka0 posted:I have no idea on how to order from samuel decal. I sent a couple of emails a year ago about some decals but never got an answer. Email should do it. Try again?
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Mar 2, 2016 01:13
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zelah posted:The new Gundam RX-78-2 HG would be a good second kit to go with your Char. Those were my first kits and now I can't stop! The hg RX 78 is great. He looks cool in literally any pose you put him in.
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Mar 2, 2016 01:33
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I really need to find time to get back into this hobby.
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Mar 2, 2016 01:46
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Ka0 posted:I have no idea on how to order from samuel decal. I sent a couple of emails a year ago about some decals but never got an answer. Make sure you email order@samueldecal.com and not orders@samueldecal.com.
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Mar 2, 2016 02:27
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Ok so by my approximation you can make the Gusion with the Barbatos' and Rebake's frame parts, but the rebake can't be made with Barbatos' frame parts.
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Mar 2, 2016 02:29
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Bimmi posted:Do NOT, under any circumstances, follow through with this advice. Thank you for the heads up. I don't trust CA honestly because I work with polymer clay (which is technically plastic) and it causes all kinds of problems with cured clay. I'm going to take your advice and strengthen both sides. You're right those pieces are way too thin. I also have this UV light activated glue like what dentists use (my dad gave this to me recently and I have yet to test it out). I'll have to run some experiments and report back if that works well on plasic.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:00
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That's probably UV curing epoxy, which is likely to be pretty good. Test on some scraps, of course, but you should be able to sculpt it very precisely and then cure it rock hard.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:20
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Blackish Sheep posted:Thank you for the heads up. I don't trust CA honestly because I work with polymer clay (which is technically plastic) and it causes all kinds of problems with cured clay. I'm going to take your advice and strengthen both sides. You're right those pieces are way too thin. I also have this UV light activated glue like what dentists use (my dad gave this to me recently and I have yet to test it out). I'll have to run some experiments and report back if that works well on plasic. If you choose to go the laminate-plastic route, CA glue will work fine — bonding wide, flat surfaces is exactly what it's best for. I would still recommend a regular plastic cement for rejoining the kit pieces. Definitely test this UV stuff on some scrap before trying it on anything important. It's annoying when parts break. Easier now that you can seek out solutions online, but there's still a certain amount of deduction and improvisation to the process. Good luck. muike posted:Ok so by my approximation you can make the Gusion with the Barbatos' and Rebake's frame parts, but the rebake can't be made with Barbatos' frame parts. Here's a guide to adapting the Barbatos frame to fit the Gusion... not sure how helpful it really is, but it's a start: http://www.modelers-g.jp/modules/myalbum2/photo.php?lid=832
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Mar 2, 2016 03:22
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UV glue is also used a lot in clear parts. I haven't personally used it so I cannot testify to how better it is to the alternative PVC glue (never use poly cement on clear parts, it'll smelt them; also CA releases fumes when curing, which wrecks clear parts)
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Mar 2, 2016 04:14
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Model Legend finished up a MG to MB Strike Freedom conversion kit. I guess we know what Dragon Momoko's next kit will be.
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Mar 2, 2016 05:59
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BlitzBlast posted:Model Legend finished up a MG to MB Strike Freedom conversion kit. 
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Mar 2, 2016 06:02
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Blackish Sheep posted:I'm going to take your advice and strengthen both sides. You're right those pieces are way too thin. One more bit of advice: see if you can find a hobby shop near you that carries Plastruct products. They have ABS sheet and structural forms (I-beams, strips, etc.) that are pre-sized for width and also come in medium and dark grey plastic, which might be helpful in several ways over using raw white card stock. They also sell a pretty decent, multi-compatible liquid cement. At the very least, it's all the sort of stuff any journeyman scale modeler should be aware of. (Plastruct does have a website but it is more or less useless unless you know what you want in advance)
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Mar 2, 2016 08:32
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Revitalized posted:Also while I'm in the middle of contemplating life choices, how are those cool city dioramas made? Like a war torn office building or urban backdrop for a gunpla? Sheperd Paine. He is basically the Yoda of scale diorama modeling. All his books seem to be out of print and expensive now, but seek out any articles you can find regardless. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 09:44
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Kuvo posted:I'm having trouble deciding which kit to do next as I've already done the best two mobile suits. Does a BIG ZAM gunpla kit exist or are they mass produced now? 1/400 Gundam Collection Big-Zam. Actually not a bad price, considering how long it's been out of production. There's also an oldy-moldy 1/550 kit for ¥300, but LOL to that. edit: look what i found in my drawers: 
Bimmi fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 09:51
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MJP posted:I was working on redoing the thigh part of my Papillon project, when I looked inside and saw that the polycap housing had completely cracked, causing the polycap itself to fall out and be useless. I checked its cannibalized spare, and that one cracked and fell out from the top just with a little modest movement of the polycap within its normal range. Hip or knee? edit: actually, either one would have to be some sort of catastrophic solvent issue. You haven't been abusing paint thinner, have you? Bimmi fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 10:20
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Bimmi posted:Hip or knee? Negative. I don't think the painted parts ever got exposed to brake fluid for stripping, but there's an unpainted matte topcoated part where the top part literally fell the gently caress over due to the polycap housing cracking. It's the thigh part, where the hip joint peg goes in. My wife speculates it's because these were downstairs in the basement, and it got cold in there because the plywood I use to block a window with a cutout for my exhaust hose blew open, causing the temp to drop. I don't think it got colder than the 40s, but I have no way to confirm historical temps. Here are the offenders - the first is unpainted, the second and third painted. Both the latter two got Alclad gray primer airbrushed on as normal, then Alclad gloss black base, Alclad chrome, and Auto-Air candy enamel. No issues with any of those on other parts - hell, the wing binders I must have stripped at least twice each and those still hold their shape without much incident.    At least something went right - the pink stripe masking for the feet/bell bottoms/what the hell ever parts. I'd already done them in candy colors but realized I wasn't going to be able to get a nice candy pink setup going. I airbrushed Alclad gloss black on the stripes, let it dry, hit it with the chrome, then Mr. Clear Color GX Clear Pink thinned at 3:2 for airbrushing for the candy color. After that dried, I gave it Future and left it overnight. Then I masked off the upper parts around each recessed pink part, brushed on Mr. Masking Sol Neo, and removed the masking tape while the Masking Sol was wet. After drying, I redid the part with the same Auto-Air candy process, then took off the dried Masking Sol.  Small successes are still successes. Although now I gotta figure out how I'm going to airbrush the tiny-rear end funnels. 
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Mar 2, 2016 15:59
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Definitely a solvent issue, as I see it. And good lord, man, moisturize!
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Mar 2, 2016 16:08
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Bimmi posted:Definitely a solvent issue, as I see it. And good lord, man, moisturize! But they were never exposed to a solvent, that's the weird thing. Maybe the replacements will get primed with acrylic primer just to rule out the possibility of Alclad lacquer primer doing weird poo poo? I have no clue. I definitely didn't use the Alclad matte topcoat on the inner part of the unpainted thigh.  indeed.You'd better believe I'm moisturizing. I'm a freaking lizard, especially compared to my wife - her skin's perfect, it never needs moisturizing.
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Mar 2, 2016 16:53
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Whatever crazy metallic paint you're using, I can guarantee you it's going on pretty hot.
Bimmi fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 17:05
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Bimmi posted:Whatever crazy metallic paint you're using, I can guarantee you it's going on pretty hot. But one of the affected pieces never got painted at all. Just topcoated, and the topcoat never once went into the joint like that. Not antagonistic, just curious and concerned. The process for the metallics: 1) Primer (Alclad) 2) Gloss black enamel base (Alclad) 3) Chrome (Alclad) 4) Water-based candy paint (Auto-Air) 5) Gloss topcoat (Future) Should I be doing three or more coats of primer? Switching solely to Vallejo primer since it's an acrylic and way less hot?
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Mar 2, 2016 17:14
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Vallejo primer won't take lacquer paints over it, trust a poor fool on this.
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Mar 2, 2016 17:32
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I've used it as a primer for normal acrylics without issue, and for Alclad gloss black base. Never really tried a lacquer over it but yeah, I could see it having issues.
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Mar 2, 2016 17:34
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Welcome to the Club. e: High Grade 1989 ver.Ka: 
Bimmi fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 17:54
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Bimmi posted:Welcome to the Club. The large number of animation colour RX-78-2s had me looking at this for about 10 seconds trying to figure out if it was a picture. 
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Mar 2, 2016 18:24
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It's not really Katoki or 1989, but i like it anyway. e: speaking of High Grade 01, mine is still quite visible to the naked eye if you look hard enough: 
Bimmi fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 18:26
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Any of y'all built the Double X MG? I haven't seen the show its from but it looks cool and my coworker has some Barnes & Noble coupon/discount situation that would bring it from $50 to $35. It expires later this month so there's no rush. The only two MGs I'm in the market for are the RX-78 The Origin and the 2.0 Char Zaku, so maybe I could wait a week or two to see if they get that in RX-78? I'm not sure what their ordering schedule looks like though.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:26
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zelah posted:Any of y'all built the Double X MG? I haven't seen the show its from but it looks cool and my coworker has some Barnes & Noble coupon/discount situation that would bring it from $50 to $35. The MG double x is a really good kit, would recommend.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:31
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zelah posted:Any of y'all built the Double X MG? I haven't seen the show its from but it looks cool and my coworker has some Barnes & Noble coupon/discount situation that would bring it from $50 to $35. Paging BlitzBlast...
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Mar 2, 2016 23:40
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For 35 bux you'd be crazy not to get it.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:44
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Ignimbrite posted:Yeah, Gundam Double X is even better than Gundam X BlitzBlast posted:MG DX actually is better but still you should totally get MG X just on principle. Not empty quoting. DX MG is a great kit, very solid and looks awesome, and at $35 it's a goddamned steal.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:47
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