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Agreed that the Prius has been insanely reliable, especially for how complex it is. But when something does break on it, it's expensive. For example, coworker just dropped $2500 getting what's basically the brake booster replaced on his. Though that's the first repair expense he's had on his since he bought it used 3 or 4 years ago (2006 that currently has about 170k, got it around 100k). Still hasn't had to do brakes, and I think he finally replaced the tires recently.
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Mar 1, 2016 12:11
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CharlesM posted:I'm not really sure that's true as by all accounts the Toyota Prius at least has been very reliable, more so than almost any other vehicle. I don't know about the other hybrids. In 2013, when I bought my Prius C - it was #1 for both reliability and mileage. It's also #5,332 for "soul". Luckily, also having a Volkswagen will make up for that.
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Mar 1, 2016 13:46
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some texas redneck posted:Agreed that the Prius has been insanely reliable, especially for how complex it is. The Prius brake booster thing is VERY expensive because of how Toyota designed it to be an all-in-one unit - even the ABS computer and motor are part of the master cylinder. The Land Cruiser and I think the 4runner have a similarly expensive setup as well. You can literally buy a remanufactured hybrid battery or a transmission for less than one of those things.
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Mar 1, 2016 13:53
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Wait so just doing the brakes on the Prius is $2500k? Is there anything else besides the brakes and battery that is more expensive to fix than the average car? Are all hybrids like this?
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Mar 1, 2016 15:20
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punk rebel ecks posted:Wait so just doing the brakes on the Prius is $2500k? Not the brakes, the brake booster.
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Mar 1, 2016 16:02
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punk rebel ecks posted:Wait so just doing the brakes on the Prius is $2500k? Here, buy this, change the oil whenever you think about it, drive it until it rusts out from under you, and then buy another three for the money you're looking to spend. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/5467775339.html
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Mar 1, 2016 16:02
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Safety Dance posted:Here, buy this, change the oil whenever you think about it, drive it until it rusts out from under you, and then buy another three for the money you're looking to spend. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/5467775339.html I realize I may seem like little bit of a cheapskate, but I feel that this post is still unwarranted. There is an in between not wanting to spend any money at all on a car and spending $2,500 per repair which is what I was asking was the norm for hybrids. I'm investing $1,000s into this so I want to be as knowledgeable as possible before I make a purchase. Ozmiander posted:Not the brakes, the brake booster. Seems I misread. My mistake. punk rebel ecks fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 16:11
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I'm not poking at any cheapskatedness. I'm pointing out that the Cherokee is dead simple, cheap, and has a motor that will be the last thing running after the bombs fall.
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Mar 1, 2016 16:54
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I think I've simplified things to choosing between a Toyota Prius and a Honda Insight.Safety Dance posted:I'm not poking at any cheapskatedness. I'm pointing out that the Cherokee is dead simple, cheap, and has a motor that will be the last thing running after the bombs fall. Okay. Sorry for jumping to conclusions.
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Mar 1, 2016 17:03
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The Prius brake booster is the same kind of accumulator as used on many Toyota/Lexus cars, and can be opened, re-sealed and re-gassed for much less than $2500. If this is the failed component (likely, as they do wear), then I'd be surprised if nobody is rebuilding these.
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Mar 1, 2016 17:13
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Safety Dance posted:I'm not poking at any cheapskatedness. I'm pointing out that the Cherokee is dead simple, cheap, and has a motor that will be the last thing running after the bombs fall. I tried to get someone looking for a cheap ride into a Cherokee. They weren't having it. Sad times. 
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Mar 1, 2016 19:51
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I have a question, can I attach a trailer hitch to a 2006 impala by myself or does it need to be professionally done? I am currently in SW Florida and I need to tow my '76 MGB down from Tennessee. Can this car even do it? The MG is stupid light and tiny. Any advice would be super appreciated.
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Mar 1, 2016 20:16
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Mr.Bob posted:I have a question, can I attach a trailer hitch to a 2006 impala by myself or does it need to be professionally done? I am currently in SW Florida and I need to tow my '76 MGB down from Tennessee. Can this car even do it? The MG is stupid light and tiny. Any advice would be super appreciated. Your MGB weighs a skoch over a ton, and your Impala is rated to tow roughly half that. It might be okay towing your MGB somewhere in-town, but that'd be really sketchy on the interstate. If I were you, I'd rent a U-Haul or a Penske truck and a car trailer one-way, fly up, and tow back.
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Mar 1, 2016 20:48
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If a guy has stripped the head of a hex bolt, if he were to JB-Weld something to the head of it, could the JB-Weld hold it well enough to torque it outta there? Or should I get a set of screw extractors?
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Mar 1, 2016 21:14
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scuz posted:I should get a set of screw extractors.
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Mar 1, 2016 21:20
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Safety Dance posted:Your MGB weighs a skoch over a ton, and your Impala is rated to tow roughly half that. It might be okay towing your MGB somewhere in-town, but that'd be really sketchy on the interstate. If I were you, I'd rent a U-Haul or a Penske truck and a car trailer one-way, fly up, and tow back. Thanks for the reply! So does that mean when I have had some of my obese friends in the car and we went on a road trip it was sketchy? They were probably around seven hundred pounds combined.
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Mar 1, 2016 21:30
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Tow weight is different from passenger weight. All that weight isn't entirely bearing on the rear of the frame, for one.
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Mar 1, 2016 21:37
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Mr.Bob posted:Thanks for the reply! So does that mean when I have had some of my obese friends in the car and we went on a road trip it was sketchy? They were probably around seven hundred pounds combined. Javid posted:Tow weight is different from passenger weight. All that weight isn't entirely bearing on the rear of the frame, for one. This. Even if you were pulling a trailer with Tow weight isn't a hard and fast "your car will snap in half" measurement. It takes into account your transmission and your brakes and figures that, given an ideally loaded trailer in good condition and decent road conditions, you would be able to control the car. If you know what you're doing and you drive carefully, you can exceed maximum towing weight by a little bit without breaking anything. More-than-doubling your max tow weight for what's probably going to be at least 15 hours on the interstate isn't a good plan. You'll cook your brakes, toast your transmission, and squish the everliving gently caress out of your rear suspension if you manage to avoid rear-ending a family of twelve near Gainesville.
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Mar 1, 2016 21:54
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I need to replace the tires soon on my 2013 Taurus SHO (245/45/20), and I think I've settled on replacing the OEM Michelin MXM4's with Continental DWS06's Anyone have anything bad to say about them? I commute a lot on the highway so I'll give up max performance for a quieter ride but still expect the tire to perform well. On a side note drat tires got expensive, when I was younger I remember replacing all 4 for 400 dollars and having change left for lunch. This is going to set me back $1100-ish. Maybe I'm just getting old. poo poo.
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Mar 1, 2016 22:33
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My 05 Kia Rio has been running noisy and sluggish lately. I took it in and they told me the lifters were sticking. I was told it's not easily fixable and I would be best off replacing the engine. Is this sensible? It seems pretty extreme. I'm seeing tricks on google like putting automatic transmission fluid in your oil for 5 minutes, but I don't want to start dumping stuff in my engine without knowing what I'm doing. Any advice?
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Mar 1, 2016 22:39
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skipdogg posted:I need to replace the tires soon on my 2013 Taurus SHO (245/45/20), and I think I've settled on replacing the OEM Michelin MXM4's with Continental DWS06's Your car has 20 inch wheels. You can easily still get 4 tires for under $400 - if you have a Corolla with 15 inch wheels. Hell - if you have a 2016 Kia Rio with 14s you can get 4 close to $300. That's such a specific size - you might only find reviews from people with BMWs and other cars that use those huge tires. Tire Rack reviews are what I go by. You can also compare the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) ratings and see which one will last longer.
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Mar 1, 2016 22:41
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skipdogg posted:I need to replace the tires soon on my 2013 Taurus SHO (245/45/20), and I think I've settled on replacing the OEM Michelin MXM4's with Continental DWS06's DWS's are the pretty standard "good for the money" tire around here. Better rated than similarly priced tires, cheaper than similarly rated tires.
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Mar 1, 2016 22:51
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Safety Dance posted:Your MGB weighs a skoch over a ton, and your Impala is rated to tow roughly half that. It might be okay towing your MGB somewhere in-town, but that'd be really sketchy on the interstate. If I were you, I'd rent a U-Haul or a Penske truck and a car trailer one-way, fly up, and tow back.
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Mar 1, 2016 23:35
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Safety Dance posted:This. Even if you were pulling a trailer with Ok. I wont do it. Thanks for all the advice guys.
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Mar 2, 2016 00:25
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punk rebel ecks posted:I realize I may seem like little bit of a cheapskate, but I feel that this post is still unwarranted. There is an in between not wanting to spend any money at all on a car and spending $2,500 per repair which is what I was asking was the norm for hybrids. I'm investing $1,000s into this so I want to be as knowledgeable as possible before I make a purchase. The other thing to remember with the Prius is that these repairs are rare. I could  about how the repairs on my Jeep are all cheap (and so far, they have been) but there is constantly something else to worry about. There's a good chance with a Prius that unless you are particularly unlucky (or keep the car long enough that ANY car is going to have at least one big-ticket repair) you will never run into any of the expensive repairs.Also, consider that at least one big-ticket repair (the HV battery) has a wide variety of aftermarket solutions. The lack of these on a similarly-expensive part tells me they just don't fail often enough; otherwise, Dorman and the like would be tripping over themselves to rush a cheaper reman unit to market.
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Mar 2, 2016 00:48
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Spelling Mitsake posted:My 05 Kia Rio has been running noisy and sluggish lately. I took it in and they told me the lifters were sticking. I was told it's not easily fixable and I would be best off replacing the engine. Video of noise? Have you changed the plugs? Hyundai/Kia gdi cars eat spark plugs. I mean instantly jumping to replacing the engine is kinda lol and worthy of a second opinion. It is a 2005 rio too so why not just drive it until it dies? It is 11 years old.
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Mar 2, 2016 01:31
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Godholio posted:Yes, and not really. Burning coolant will trash your pistons. So I'll stick to not driving it. When it comes time to take it in for the gasket, will a ten~ish mile drive to the mechanic be safe or do I have to tow it?
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Mar 2, 2016 02:11
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Christobevii3 posted:Video of noise? Have you changed the plugs? Hyundai/Kia gdi cars eat spark plugs. I mean instantly jumping to replacing the engine is kinda lol and worthy of a second opinion. It is a 2005 rio too so why not just drive it until it dies? It is 11 years old. Driving it to death it definately on the table, this car's not worth spending that kind of money on. The plugs are from last summer I think. I can do a video tomorrow. Yeah, I want a second opinion. Anyone know a good mechanic around Hamilton Ontario?
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Mar 2, 2016 02:11
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Christobevii3 posted:Change your fan relays. Is it radiator fan? May be stuck on Turned out to be exactly this. Driving through the storm hosed up the fan relay and caused one of the radiator fans to freak out. Thankfully it was only sort of expensive to fix instead of insanely expensive.
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Mar 2, 2016 02:22
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Spelling Mitsake posted:Driving it to death it definately on the table, this car's not worth spending that kind of money on. The plugs are from last summer I think. I can do a video tomorrow. I'd go change the oil, drive like a loving bat out of hell rear end in a top hat for a week, change again. See what happens? Costs nothing to pull the plugs and check. May have one with a burned tip. Also, the coil packs are notorious for going out. May be worth changing the plugs, then the packs.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:18
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FreudianSlippers posted:Turned out to be exactly this. Driving through the storm hosed up the fan relay and caused one of the radiator fans to freak out. Thankfully it was only sort of expensive to fix instead of insanely expensive. Nice! Glad it worked
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Mar 2, 2016 03:18
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Javid posted:So I'll stick to not driving it. When it comes time to take it in for the gasket, will a ten~ish mile drive to the mechanic be safe or do I have to tow it? I put probably 50 miles on my Taurus with no apparent issues. I think I paid around 1600-1800 and that was 15 years ago.
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Mar 2, 2016 04:48
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2008 Ford Ranger Sport, RWD, 3L V6 I need new brake rotors & pads, and want to install them myself (with the help of my father-in-law) but have no idea where to begin. I've been googling around for the last hour or so trying to figure out what are the best brands of brake rotors for my particular needs. I don't want to cheap out, and I don't want to go super high performance, I just basically want good stock rotors & pads that I can bolt on myself, preferably under $200 CAD for the front pair, which according to my googling seems about in the middle of the price range. Can anybody shed some light on this for me? What to avoid? I never knew brake rotors could be so divisive, as I've browsed a few random other forum threads with people bickering back and forth. Other vent/rant: It sucks being Canadian and trying to source auto parts online. All the best sites are USA-based and makes shipping a nightmare, especially for expensive, heavy parts.
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Mar 2, 2016 05:40
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goldrush posted:2008 Ford Ranger Sport, RWD, 3L V6 I'd just grab Certified or Wagners from CT to be honest.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:15
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The O'Reilly mid tier are good. Are your pads even bad? Mine had 140k miles and still were at 1/2 their life. If drums in rear a spring kit is really cheap
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Mar 2, 2016 17:46
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Seconding the choice of wagners. They stop good, are quiet and are close in cost and performance to the "Super duper ceramics!" You will be pushed towards at a parts store. Really like anything, there is a bunch of finely detailed bullshit once you dig into it, but its not worth knowing. Get some basic vented rotors and a good set of pads
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Mar 2, 2016 20:23
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Yo I have a warranty on my car (2011 A4) so I get it serviced by the Audi dealership. They are outwardly very friendly people. I took my car in in September or so because the transmission was lurching. They charged me for software updates for like 200 bucks (how the gently caress something could break and need software updates to fix was beyond me but they wouldn't do anything else without charging me to tear apart my transmission, the diagnostics of which wouldn't be covered under warranty) and it didn't fix the problem. About two weeks ago, my power steering breaks entirely so I take it in to have the power steering and the transmission looked at since it's doing the same thing. They call back yesterday(I've had the loaner car for about ten days now), say they've fixed the power steering but can't get the transmission to lurch, then before I can get in there call back and say the power steering actually wasn't fixed, and while they were driving it to check the transmission 'something else went wrong.' They said the check engine light came on and the transmission started grinding much worse, so they'd need more time to look at what happened. Today my service advisor calls me on her day off from a cell phone. I can't hear much but she says something about 'impact' somewhere not in the transmission, I think she said transfer case but I'm not sure. That's out of warranty for some reason and will be 1700 dollars to fix. I told her to call me back when she's at work tomorrow. Is it just me or is this just about the shadiest goddamn thing you've ever heard of? They want me to pay for something that happened while their technicians were driving the car, from what I understand. I don't know the first loving thing about cars, so I wouldn't even know what questions to ask. Can somebody weigh in and tell me if I'm getting hosed here?
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Mar 2, 2016 20:42
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I got the recall notice from Ford (16S03) about the airbag and metal fragments for my 06 Ranger. However, my truck had both airbags deploy after a front end collision while going under 15mph in 2010. Think this was the original cause? Anyway, I'm just figuring out if I need to get this serviced or not since they've already been replaced.
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Mar 2, 2016 20:49
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Sharzak posted:Yo I have a warranty on my car (2011 A4) so I get it serviced by the Audi dealership. They are outwardly very friendly people. I took my car in in September or so because the transmission was lurching. They charged me for software updates for like 200 bucks (how the gently caress something could break and need software updates to fix was beyond me but they wouldn't do anything else without charging me to tear apart my transmission, the diagnostics of which wouldn't be covered under warranty) and it didn't fix the problem. What company is the warranty through? Doesn't sound like its worth the paper it's written on.
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Mar 2, 2016 20:57
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Spazz posted:I got the recall notice from Ford (16S03) about the airbag and metal fragments for my 06 Ranger. However, my truck had both airbags deploy after a front end collision while going under 15mph in 2010. Think this was the original cause? Probably yes, given that they probably threw replacement Takata airbags in your Ranger. Sharzak posted:Can somebody weigh in and tell me if I'm getting hosed here? You bought an Audi, so yes. Seriously though, it's entirely possible you're not getting screwed. It's as if you went into the hospital for a bruise and the doctor discovered you were diabetic: he didn't cause your diabetes, he just uncovered an underlying condition. On the other hand, you're dealing with the service writer from a dealership. Get the full story tomorrow (take notes), and, if you want, find an independent Audi mechanic to take a look at your A4. The independent mechanic might be able to tell you what, if anything, is attributable back to the Audi mechanics in case you need a legal nastygram.
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Mar 2, 2016 21:00
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