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richyp posted:If you want to maintain a cohesive but non-uniformed look then I'd stick to the same limited palette of colours applied to the entire unit to tie them together and go for a warband look, similar to a Necromunda/Mordheim gang or Infinity group using the same colorus through-out but not necessarily in the same places e.g. if one model has blue details then use the same shade of blue on the other models in different places. Seconding this. Sticking to the same colours in different places is how I painted my Frostgrave Dwarfs and it really makes em look like a unit whilst also being individuals. You can use some different colours to highlight important models or differentiate special squads, e.g. all your sergeants get a red bandanna, or your veterans have yellow patches. In the case of the Frostgrave guys they're pretty much all metal with brown/black clothes, with blue flourishes (generally cloaks), but my Wizard and Apprentice both have purple details too to stand out. It also works with inverting the colours - say your basic grunts are grey with red details. Your commandos can be red with grey patches. They stand out because they're obviously different but also fit in 'cause it's the same colours. Have some bad pictures which will hopefully show what I mean:   
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Feb 29, 2016 01:08
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I just picked up a rotary tool for around the house, but would like to use it to clean up minis also. Anyone have any suggestions on what bits to get?
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Feb 29, 2016 05:00
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Finished the Nomad Hacker by adding some more highlights and based her and her Panda buddy who needed some more blue/turquoise to tie him in with the rest of the group, queue a nice shiny PanO helmet.
richyp fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 16:26
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Prefect Six posted:I just picked up a rotary tool for around the house, but would like to use it to clean up minis also. Anyone have any suggestions on what bits to get? Before you start, which one did you get?
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Feb 29, 2016 18:07
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Prefect Six posted:I just picked up a rotary tool for around the house, but would like to use it to clean up minis also. Anyone have any suggestions on what bits to get? None. A set of files will be much more useful to you, especially if you're working with plastic. A Dremel is going to grind down a plastic mini way too quickly to be useful
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Feb 29, 2016 19:15
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If im going to be painting a bunch of skin and dont really have any skin tones, is getting one of the kits worth it or should I just get two three shades? I was thinking of getting this Vallejo game air face painting but im not sure if its just over kill. I do like that it comes with an example booklet with the exact colours but I know there are tons of tutorials online. Waste of money?
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Feb 29, 2016 23:29
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You could get the Reaper skin tones that cover the range of colors you'd like. That might be a smaller set, and they come highly-recommended. But really, chances are you spend a lot less on paints than on things to paint, so getting a few colors you don't really need isn't the end of the world.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:41
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TouchToneDialing posted:If im going to be painting a bunch of skin and dont really have any skin tones, is getting one of the kits worth it or should I just get two three shades? I was thinking of getting this Vallejo game air face painting but im not sure if its just over kill. I do like that it comes with an example booklet with the exact colours but I know there are tons of tutorials online. That's a pretty nice set. I'm also partial to Reaper flesh tones and have like...30 of them, and THAT is overkill, but that set looks like a good range. Maybe add a lighter off white like Ivory or Pale Sand for extreme highlights on paler people. Definitely not a waste. I like having lots of flesh tones because it means every face I paint is slightly different, like real people are.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:48
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It's been a while since I've posted in here, but I'm trying a new scheme on my Warp Spiders and I'd appreciate any feedback. SRM mentioned previously that the colors are competing for attention a bit too much, but the photo was very poor and I wanted to get a better shot with a better view of the colors before making significant changes. Also, I understand that the Exarchs powerblades look really dumb. I'm not sure what to do about it at the moment since the 'blades' are almost as thick as they are wide.  All that said, I'm not thrilled with the models or the paintjob but I think it's the model itself because I felt the same about the previous iteration. I can't wait until GW makes new Warp Spiders a decade from now. It'll be great when the coolest aspect has models that have well defined edges, aren't extremely thick, and dynamic.
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Mar 1, 2016 00:18
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TouchToneDialing posted:If im going to be painting a bunch of skin and dont really have any skin tones, is getting one of the kits worth it or should I just get two three shades? I was thinking of getting this Vallejo game air face painting but im not sure if its just over kill. I do like that it comes with an example booklet with the exact colours but I know there are tons of tutorials online. I've been using the Scale 75 flesh tones set and they have a nice matt finish and plenty of tones and some examples in the set.
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Mar 1, 2016 00:52
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 The one on the right is getting painted first. Holy poo poo I'm excited.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:42
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My heart wasn't in this one. Half-assed a lot of blends and did basically no clean up.  
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Mar 1, 2016 04:06
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Boon posted:It's been a while since I've posted in here, but I'm trying a new scheme on my Warp Spiders and I'd appreciate any feedback. I think they need some harder blacklining. I like all the colors, though - you just need more dark space to set them off.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:17
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Cross-posting from the Oath thread.JackMann posted:Oath Complete
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Mar 1, 2016 06:58
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Oath Thread Crosspost time!Dr. Gargunza posted:Oath Complete! crime fighting hog, I believe I might recognize the brand of correcting-tape dispenser you got the gears from for that colossal base. Excellent job of base building, and really nice work weathering those up!
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Mar 1, 2016 13:50
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:My heart wasn't in this one. Half-assed a lot of blends and did basically no clean up. If that's half-assing, I'd love to see what you giving a poo poo looks like!
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Mar 1, 2016 14:51
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Oath Thread Crosspost time! That's awesome! I had em in my basing parts box for ages. Few years ago I bought some RC car parts because they have huge (in mini terms) gears perfect for steam punk basing.
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Mar 1, 2016 15:40
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Another Infinity model, this time an objective/NPC. Think I spent longer on the stockings than the rest of the mini and I'm not 100% convinced I pulled off the translucent look correctly. Close up because at tabletop distance it's hard to see any details: 
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Mar 1, 2016 16:30
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crime fighting hog posted:That's awesome! I had em in my basing parts box for ages. Few years ago I bought some RC car parts because they have huge (in mini terms) gears perfect for steam punk basing.   That is really the only thing these tape dispensers are good for, isn't it? I can't get one to last more than about a week before it hangs up and unspools its contents. Fun fact: the base on this guy was made of two of the large gears, cut into 2- or 3-tooth sections and painstakingly superglued around the rim of a Micro Arts Studio base (then reinforced with greenstuff after about six or seven instances of breaking them off with my sausage fingers). Took a long time to assemble, but I was really pleased with the results. ...Or too tired to gently caress with it any further, I forget which.   I also found these things for cheap at American Science and Surplus. (If anyone's in the Chicago area, I highly recommend visiting their store; their prices for cheap crafting materials can't be beat, but it's worth a trip just to witness the signage.)
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Mar 1, 2016 17:03
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 Cadians all over my painting table! these guys are basically done! they need basing, but i tend to do that in huge batches
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Mar 1, 2016 17:15
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Finally, after several applications, the water effects have finally dried on the base of my latest model. This is actually the model that inspired me to build my Chaos Space Marine Army. I am most likely going to run it as my Dark Apostle, based on the fluff.   
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Mar 2, 2016 03:11
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signalnoise posted:Before you start, which one did you get? 4200. berzerkmonkey posted:None. A set of files will be much more useful to you, especially if you're working with plastic. A Dremel is going to grind down a plastic mini way too quickly to be useful I have some Infiniti models that are difficult to clean the mold lines from, you still think a low rpm would still be too much?
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Mar 2, 2016 03:26
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jadebullet posted:Finally, after several applications, the water effects have finally dried on the base of my latest model. This is actually the model that inspired me to build my Chaos Space Marine Army. I am most likely going to run it as my Dark Apostle, based on the fluff. This is a really distinctive and cool mini, I dig it. I think the base could use some work - the rim needs cleaning up and the actual basing itself doesn't look quite finished, but the model itself is dope.
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Mar 2, 2016 04:05
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Thanks man. Yeah, I realized afterwards that I didn't clean up the ring. I am actually waiting for some woodland scenics water effects to arrive for the ripples. He is standing in water, the secret weapon miniatures water stuff but it didn't show up well in the pictures unfortunately. I figure that adding some ripples will help. I also am unhappy that the front grass soaked up so much of it. Edit: do you have any tips for what I can add to the base to make it better? I am new to basing. jadebullet fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 04:09
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Prefect Six posted:4200 Don't use this on minis please. Yes the low RPM is still too much. There is exactly one minis use for a dremel IMO and that's pinning, and only using a stylus type rotary tool.
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Mar 2, 2016 04:18
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Well and terrain/basing stuff.
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Mar 2, 2016 04:19
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You could cut large resin gates with a rotary saw, but that's kind of overkill.
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Mar 2, 2016 04:49
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jadebullet posted:Finally, after several applications, the water effects have finally dried on the base of my latest model. This is actually the model that inspired me to build my Chaos Space Marine Army. I am most likely going to run it as my Dark Apostle, based on the fluff. I don't know where you're going with this, but a for reals psychotic murderer night lords detachment would be dope as gently caress.
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Mar 2, 2016 05:45
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Reynold posted:I don't know where you're going with this, but a for reals psychotic murderer night lords detachment would be dope as gently caress. Thanks man. That's sort, kind of what I am going for with this army, though not Night Lords specifically. The whole fluff behind the army is that their main tactical doctrine/goal is about corruption through insanity. Using cultists, terror, andpsychic and chemical manipulation, they push their intended target to their mental breaking point, then snap it. It's sort of Night Lords meets Alpha Legion, though rather unlike the Night Lords, fear is a means to an end, rather than the goal itself. An example is that my Chosen are made of loyalist marines who were captured, tortured by having symbols carved into their skin, and finally corrupted by having a ceramite doll mask nailed to their face by corrupted service studs. The renegade war band is made up of various chapters based on their iconography (I am doing a sort of Deathwatch thing, with keeping the original chapter iconography on one pauldron), and the Inquisition theorizes that at least some of the members are Marines lost to Warp storms. So basically, modeling wise I am trying to draw upon horror stuff, like Silent Hill, Parasite Eve, My Bloody Valentine, and other things like that. I am also going for a look that makes them look run down and badly resupplied and maintained.
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Mar 2, 2016 12:43
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Prefect Six posted:4200. You need a sharp blade and a file set. I have this one and it has cleaned my entire Infinity army.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:09
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jadebullet posted:Thanks man. That's sort, kind of what I am going for with this army, though not Night Lords specifically. The whole fluff behind the army is that their main tactical doctrine/goal is about corruption through insanity. Using cultists, terror, andpsychic and chemical manipulation, they push their intended target to their mental breaking point, then snap it. It's sort of Night Lords meets Alpha Legion, though rather unlike the Night Lords, fear is a means to an end, rather than the goal itself. An example is that my Chosen are made of loyalist marines who were captured, tortured by having symbols carved into their skin, and finally corrupted by having a ceramite doll mask nailed to their face by corrupted service studs. This sounds great and I love both the masked marine and the recent one. I am really keen on a more horror feel to the chaos forces. I do love a lot of Dan Abnetts stuff for this.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:40
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Prefect Six posted:4200. Like the others have said, yeah, it's still too much. Just break down and get the files and a box of Xacto blades. It's a pain in the butt, but it's part of the hobby and you'll get used to it to the point that it just becomes a mechanical action on your part.
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Mar 2, 2016 16:25
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I think I'm getting close to the point where I can do pretty quick paint jobs to a standard I'm happy with. Recently finished up these for a regular customer, he doesn't want black stripes or decals or anything, literally just tabletop quality and WYSIWIG weapons so everything is magnetized, including the bike stands. These took about a day and change, still need to work on a couple of things but at least the edge highlighting is smoother than my earlier stuff! I hate edge highlighting.      sorry for the logo, I didn't upload the non-logo pics
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Mar 2, 2016 17:17
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Any of you guys have tips on painting very dull, almost monochrome colors? I'm planning on doing my Zombicide models in the B&W/monochrome color scheme, but I need a way to inject a little color into the mix just to differentiate the zombie types (Runners seem to be difficult for people to pick out, for some reason.) I'm essentially looking for something like the two leftmost figures in this photo:  I likely won't even have that much color, but it's pretty close to the effect I'm after. Is this something a really thin glaze would be a prime candidate for?
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Mar 2, 2016 17:45
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You could do the whole thing in greyscale and then add some color with glazes. You can also just paint it normally but mix like 50% grey into every color you use. It's really surprising how far you can desaturate colors and still have them read when they're next to each other.
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Mar 2, 2016 18:33
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berzerkmonkey posted:Any of you guys have tips on painting very dull, almost monochrome colors? I'm planning on doing my Zombicide models in the B&W/monochrome color scheme, but I need a way to inject a little color into the mix just to differentiate the zombie types (Runners seem to be difficult for people to pick out, for some reason.) Looking at them i'd say it was actually the light parts that make the rest look quite dull, that or the light is placed centred on the guy left of middle. What I would do is start from a grey neutral based mid tone and use grey's when lightening and darkening the colours too. Most of the colour's could probably be glazed over the greys e.g. the green dress could be done by painting the dress dark grey washing with dark blue, then glazing with green. EDIT: efb; EDIT 2: Sometimes metal models piss me off and make me regret not pinning them. I'm about halfway though painting this one when her arm falls off as I finish the greys and white's on the sword right before I was about to start highlighting the reds. Now I can't get the drat thing to line up correctly. 
richyp fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 18:35
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richyp posted:EDIT 2: Sometimes metal models piss me off and make me regret not pinning them. I'm about halfway though painting this one when her arm falls off as I finish the greys and white's on the sword right before I was about to start highlighting the reds. Now I can't get the drat thing to line up correctly. Not that it's especially helpful now, but this is why I repeat my mantra every day: Always Be Pinning. poo poo, I pin things that have tabs and slots on the pieces themselves.
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Mar 2, 2016 20:29
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Avenging Dentist posted:Not that it's especially helpful now, but this is why I repeat my mantra every day: Always Be Pinning. poo poo, I pin things that have tabs and slots on the pieces themselves. If I was using the models for anything other than taking a picture of and posting them on here and then packing them away I probably would pin them like I used to back in the good old days  Fortunately I've only spent about an hour on her at this point so if some of the paint comes off re-positioning the arm it'll be relatively easy to touch up the colours.
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Mar 2, 2016 20:40
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Question for you guys. At some point I want to do more Space Marine Chapters than the Ultramarines, though the UM will still be the core of my CSM army, but I have no idea how I will be able to pull off brighter chapters like the Fists without the brightness being too clashing. (I managed to get the blue toned down nicely, and the emblem chipped really nicely on the Dark Apostle) Weathering it is the key, but I am wondering if anyone had any tips on how to tone down bright yellow. I was thinking of fading it a lot before adding the chips and rust. Also, why doesn't the SM transfer sheet include Raven Guard?
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Mar 3, 2016 01:57
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Brown or Sepia washes really take the edge off of yellow, and also make it a lot easier to highlight. You can also mitigate it on Space Marines by using a lot of browns for the accessories (holsters, pouches, tubes, etc) which will help to bring the everall tone down a bit.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:03
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