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I love weathering yellow. Just use some brown or black oil wash and it'll get towed down really nicely.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:09
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Hmm, good idea about the Sepia and brown washes, thanks. As for browns, I am not sure how much I will be able to get with my current paint scheme. (see above) It is wrought iron black and silver. I dunno. This is the one idea of my army that makes me a bit nervous, because I think it will be cool and flavorful to have heavily worn and faded heraldry to identify where the renegade marine came from, but I just worry that it could end up making the army go from intimidating to Skittles. Maybe I will just make sure that each squad is segregated by color, rather than having mixed chapter squads. Edit: Quoted image so that people wouldn't have to swap back and forth to reference what I am talking about.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:12
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Prefect Six posted:I have some Infiniti models that are difficult to clean the mold lines from, you still think a low rpm would still be too much?
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Mar 3, 2016 02:24
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berzerkmonkey posted:Any of you guys have tips on painting very dull, almost monochrome colors? I'm planning on doing my Zombicide models in the B&W/monochrome color scheme, but I need a way to inject a little color into the mix just to differentiate the zombie types (Runners seem to be difficult for people to pick out, for some reason.) One thing you could do is just color small bits of the model. The Deadlands Noir official paintjobs did it pretty well:   Keep in mind that you'll want to go pretty high contrast with a black and white or monochrome scheme.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:Like the others have said, yeah, it's still too much. Just break down and get the files and a box of Xacto blades. It's a pain in the butt, but it's part of the hobby and you'll get used to it to the point that it just becomes a mechanical action on your part. Thanks for everyone's input. I've got a file set and xacto knife and have done it the regular way, but like I said, I picked this up for use around the home, not specifically for minis. Not a big deal, just wondering.
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Mar 3, 2016 05:13
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Cadians! Prepare to die for your EMPEROR! Bravely led by Captain Disapproving Scowl (Bonus points to those that recognize the technological relic he's standing on)   These are the first cadians i've ever painted, but they came out nice!
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Mar 3, 2016 07:56
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I want to make my Cyriss more interesting to paint than just orange/blue, but I'm not sure how to make them more individual: for my next dude I'm considering how to make it look like he's been underground: sand/pva brushed into crevices, static grass tufts dotted around?
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Mar 3, 2016 08:16
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I need some help picking out a basic paint set. I'm mainly looking to get some color on the various unpainted board game figs I have (Mice and Mystics, Descent, and Mansions of Madness) and possibly a figure for my D&D character. Should I go for the Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, the Vallejo Introduction Game Color set, or should I just buy one of each color from that recommended paints post linked in the OP?
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Mar 3, 2016 09:04
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Souffle posted:I need some help picking out a basic paint set. I'm mainly looking to get some color on the various unpainted board game figs I have (Mice and Mystics, Descent, and Mansions of Madness) and possibly a figure for my D&D character. Should I go for the Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, the Vallejo Introduction Game Color set, or should I just buy one of each color from that recommended paints post linked in the OP?  PostPaints are one of those personal preference things that people have their own opinions about. I personally use Vallejo Model Colour for about 90% of my stuff, other people will say the same about GW paints, Reaper and lately Scale 75. My reasons for choosing VMC are: - Years ago I bought some Game Colour and Model Colour to compare to the GW stuff I was using exclusively. I wasn't a fan of the Game Colour as I found the result too glossy, which wouldn't be a problem if I hit them with a matte varnish afterwards but I tend to paint for display rather than gaming. Model Colour was the total opposite, i.e. very matte (I have heard Scale 75 is even more matte, and I'm eager to try them). - Dropper bottles. Seriously this is why when I have to use GW paints, which is rarely as I don't paint many metals these days, that I realise what a big advantage having dropper bottles are. Firstly no dipping brushes into paint pots and potentially ruining a brush and secondly reproducing a colour is as easy as remembering x drops of colour A to y drops of colour B. - The ridiculous number of paints available. Sometimes you don't want to mix paints which is fine as there are so many variations of one colour that you could just literally buy 50 shades of grey if you wanted. I bought a paint set of military colours a few years ago and it came with at least 10 each of greys, browns, yellows and greens, obviously at this point I was heavily committed to the range. Disadvantages - Some people feel different but I really don't like the VMC metallic, for me they're really thick and don't thin well. - The paint will often need an absolute tonne of shaking to mix properly and even when it looks mixed you'll drop some out only to find just the acrylic come out. This can be solved (if you wanted to avoid an arm injury) by adding a bead/ball into the dropper bottle. - It's very delicate, again never really experienced this but as mentioned above I don't play with the stuff I paint, or rarely at least but it's recommended you varnish the models as VMC has a habit of easily chipping if you just look at a painted model wrong. So for me it's VMC for all flat colours, and GW for metallic paints and washes. I will probably pick up some Scale 75 paints at some point for fun. I do only tend to use a few of the colours I own though, I've barely touched most of the various reds and greens and I don't really own any flesh colours that I actually use as I tend to prefer to mix paint on the fly as I find it faster. Colours I recommend are in the paint recommendations post but here's what I use regularly (from memory as I'm not near my paints): Greys VMC Sky Grey - Really light grey I use as white and for making other colours paler. VMC Neutral Grey - Good medium grey for brightest highlighting on "black" VMC German Grey - "Almost Black" that I use for black, works great when hit with a blue wash after being highlighted. I use this as black and for 90% of black lining when thinned down. VMC Stone Grey - A good ceramic beige colour, works as a nice base for a white if you want a warm white. Reds VMC Red - Nice coverage over grey/white, thins well and is pretty neutral. Sort of in between Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz GW paints. VMC Hull Red - A Dark Red-Brown colour. Thinned it makes a great shade. VMC German Orange - Great first stage highlight for Red when thinned, or for smoother mix with red first. VMC Flat Flesh - Not great as a base colour for flesh (oddly) but nice as 2nd level highlight after orange. GW Mephiston Red - I rarely use this as I rarely prime black, but it will cover black after a couple of thin coats, great if you want a darker look GW Evil Sunz Scarlet - Nice mid tone for above. Greens VMC Intermediate Green - Nice smooth mid tone. Lighten with Flat Flesh or Pale Sand. VMC Russian Green - Dark Green, nice shade. Blues VMC Prussian Blue - A Dark blue, great base colour (might be my batch but I find it quite inky and glossy though) VMC Deep Sky Blue - Light blue, nice for highlights VMC Blue-Green - Teal/Turquoise base or for a bright highlight on blue. GW Baharoth (sp?) Blue - One of the "Edge" range. REALLY bright, makes a great extreme highlight for power weapons or glow. Also mixes well with the above blues for highlighting. Yellows VMC Pale Sand - Swiss army paint lightens most colours really well. Mixed with camo orange (about 3:1) makes a nice base skin tone that can be shaded with orange, and lightened with pure pale sand. VMC Sand Yellow - More yellowy than pale sand but not bright yellow. VMC Yellow - It's yellow. GW Averland Sunset - Off-Yellow to cover black in the same way the Mephiston covers red. Again rarely used as a thin yellow works well on white/grey primer just fine. Can also be thinned to highlight beiges. Browns VMC Leather Brown - Great all-round brown makes a good base to work up from, or to darken for leather (durr). VMC Beige Brown - Lighter brown, nice mid tone. VMC Khaki - For all your Gap (tm) needs. Also nice highlight for browns, or for a generic Cadian look. Washes GW Drakenhof Nightshade - My most used wash recently, great over dark greys (for a blue tinted fake black), in recesses of red for a darker tint, but less messy than brown. GW Agrax Earthshade - The Pale Sand of washes in terms of use. If in doubt this will probably shade it. GW Nuln Oil - I used to use this a lot but haven't really missed it as I tend to black line with thinned paint instead these days, and as a shade it's a bit too strong compared to an actual colour. When I used to use metallic paints though it was great for instant weapons. Paint Silver, wash black, highlight silver done. Also Pot of glaze medium + Any colour + Water - Free shading any colour. Metallics Not used any in a while but I found LeadBelcher highlighted with Runefang Steel then washed in either black, or yellow was a nice Steel/Gold colour that could be highlighted with steel. TLDR; Try some VMC if you like the texture and consistency then get Red ,Pale Sand, Intermediate Green, Prussian Blue, Sky Grey, German Grey and German Orange and the washes from above to mix pretty much anything. Supplement with additional colours later.
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Mar 3, 2016 10:04
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Nomad Alguacil Link Team finished
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Mar 3, 2016 14:52
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richyp posted:Nomad Alguacil Link Team finished I feel bad posting my plain tabletop stuff amongst your finished models :'( I suppose that's just encouragement for me to finish the green and white robot I've been working on, though! It'll look way better.
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Mar 3, 2016 14:57
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Souffle posted:I need some help picking out a basic paint set. I'm mainly looking to get some color on the various unpainted board game figs I have (Mice and Mystics, Descent, and Mansions of Madness) and possibly a figure for my D&D character. Should I go for the Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, the Vallejo Introduction Game Color set, or should I just buy one of each color from that recommended paints post linked in the OP? The Reaper LtPK is pretty good for learning basic techniques, but the paints it has are a bit limited for what you want to use them for. No fleshtones, for example. I'd go with the VGC set in this case. Though, I do really like Reaper paints in general, so consider grabbing a few triads here and there. Reaper has a lot of the same advantages Vallejo does, and they add a ceramic bead to each bottle so you've already got your shaker in there. Both lines are pretty good overall, though.
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Mar 3, 2016 15:29
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I am in love with VMC Russian Green. I would take it out for a nice dinner, a long walk, then slather it on every model I own. I usually stick with VGC, but the model color I have found equally impressive. I started off mostly using Citadel paints, and I still buy their washes and metallics excluding the awesome alcohol based ones. I painted some more Firestorm Armada ships. This was kind of a test for colors and such. I wanted it to look a bit beaten and abused but I dont think it came out as well as I hoped. Ive never tried to do weathering/rust/damage. Any thoughts? Improvements? General advice? 
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Mar 3, 2016 15:43
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richyp posted:Looking at them i'd say it was actually the light parts that make the rest look quite dull, that or the light is placed centred on the guy left of middle. What I would do is start from a grey neutral based mid tone and use grey's when lightening and darkening the colours too. Most of the colour's could probably be glazed over the greys e.g. the green dress could be done by painting the dress dark grey washing with dark blue, then glazing with green. JoshTheStampede posted:You could do the whole thing in greyscale and then add some color with glazes. You can also just paint it normally but mix like 50% grey into every color you use. It's really surprising how far you can desaturate colors and still have them read when they're next to each other. Thanks for the tips, guys. JackMann posted:One thing you could do is just color small bits of the model. The Deadlands Noir official paintjobs did it pretty well:
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Mar 3, 2016 19:04
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 I took a stab a doing some tartan on my Infinity stuff. I still have a ways to go before it is finished, but I am really liking all the detail on these models. Man, painting these guys is so different than doing some simple Space Marines.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:08
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richyp posted:TLDR; Try some VMC if you like the texture and consistency then get Red ,Pale Sand, Intermediate Green, Prussian Blue, Sky Grey, German Grey and German Orange and the washes from above to mix pretty much anything. Supplement with additional colours later. Note: there are two VMC colors called "Red". There's 947 (Bermellón, a warm red) and Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 19:14
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Avenging Dentist posted:Note: there are two VMC colors called "Red". There's 947 (Bermellón, a warm red) and 957 (Rojo, a cool red). There's loads more reds too, but the one I mean is just called Red aka Model Color 70926. 957 is "Flat Red", a little darker than 926
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Mar 3, 2016 19:28
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richyp posted:There's loads more reds too, but the one I mean is just called Red aka Model Color 70926. Er, yeah. I read the numbers off wrong. But 947 is literally called "Red" too.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:30
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Avenging Dentist posted:Er, yeah. I read the numbers off wrong. But 947 is literally called "Red" too. Yeah, I guess they ran out of Nouns to use, as pretty much every shade of a colour is usually [WWx] Country Uniform/Camo ColourName. I have 4 colours with Sand in their name, Pale Sand, Dark Sand, Sand Yellow, Iraqui Sand. All slightly darker than each other but not always noticeable when layering, e.g. Dark sand and Iraqui sand are almost the same.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:34
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richyp posted:- Some people feel different but I really don't like the VMC metallic, for me they're really thick and don't thin well. Switch to the Metal Color range, embrace your new god, hail satan. Those paints are sorcery.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:34
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I was under the impression the Air metallics were the ones you're supposed to buy?
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Mar 3, 2016 19:39
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Spiderdrake posted:I was under the impression the Air metallics were the ones you're supposed to buy? Vallejo Metal Color is a new range; released late last year and had very limited availability outside of Europe until recently. They basically are halfway between the Liquid and Model Air in brilliance, with similar coverage to the Liquids. In other words they are amazing and I can't imagine ever using Model Air metals again. Only issue is there's only one gold and one copper, but they mix extremely well.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:48
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Once spring arrives and I can prime, I'll test out the Scale75 metallic range I got and post results of those. From everything I've seen online, they're completely awesome though.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:53
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Mango Polo posted:Switch to the Metal Color range, embrace your new god, hail satan. Might try those when I next need metallic, I'm doing the Infinity thing of using greys instead and trying (badly) to copy Angel's approach. Avenging Dentist posted:Once spring arrives and I can prime, I'll test out the Scale75 metallic range I got and post results of those. From everything I've seen online, they're completely awesome though. I'm eager to give Scale 75 a go too I really like what I've seen about how matte and also how pigmented they are. While we're doing paint chat does anyone have any experience with non-gw washes as they're pretty much the only thing I'm still giving them money for and I'd like to stop. I'm talking about straight from the bottle/pot washes not home made glazes and washes.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:56
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My personal goal is to work entirely in paint and make my own washes and such (to make it easier to use the exact same color for painting, washing, etc), so I have no direct experience (also I haven't painted much this year since it's too cold to prime). However, I've heard lots of good things about Secret Weapon's washes. They have a really good variety, too. On the subject of metals, I vastly prefer the look of TMM to NMM. I think part of the reason people like NMM is that NMM painters actually - gasp! - highlight and shade on the model, which is a huge step up from "I drybrushed Boltgun Metal onto this part." The Scale75 way of doing things is that you have a crap-ton of metallics (and colored "metallics" they call "alchemy") and layer/shade/blend them just like you would ordinary paints. The iridescence helps make it look like actual metal; a lot of NMM ends up looking like some kind of ceramic material or something because it's just too flat. TMM seems to be a bit more forgiving. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 20:08
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richyp posted:Might try those when I next need metallic, I'm doing the Infinity thing of using greys instead and trying (badly) to copy Angel's approach. The downside to Metal Color is that the pots are much larger than standard, so while they are well priced you do have to pony up a bit more upfront. But I'm pretty certain you'd love them. For washes I use Army Painter, since they are 99% the equivalent to the old citadel washes, e.g. Dark Tone = Badab Black, but I'm converted to enamel washes like Ammo's.
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Mar 3, 2016 20:13
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Avenging Dentist posted:My personal goal is to work entirely in paint and make my own washes and such (to make it easier to use the exact same color for painting, washing, etc), so I have no direct experience (also I haven't painted much this year since it's too cold to prime). However, I've heard lots of good things about Secret Weapon's washes. They have a really good variety, too. I've mostly stopped using washes except for Blue over black, and the occasional Agrax on bases as it adds a nice organic look. The last two models didn't use any except for blue in the eye sockets (cheap but effective trick). This guy's base was swamped in washes with lots of paint mixed in but again non on the model:  So I'm not too concerned about consistent washes as a bit of variation on bases isn't the end of the world. I'm with you on mixing paints though, when painting large groups over a period of time I tend to create a spreadsheet with the combinations used e.g. 1:1:4 paint/paint/custom water mix* *custom water mix being a pot of Flow improver, glaze medium and water which itself is about 5:1:10 that I drop into the paint on the palette before using.
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Mar 3, 2016 20:18
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Avenging Dentist posted:My personal goal is to work entirely in paint and make my own washes and such (to make it easier to use the exact same color for painting, washing, etc), so I have no direct experience (also I haven't painted much this year since it's too cold to prime). However, I've heard lots of good things about Secret Weapon's washes. They have a really good variety, too. For me it's a matter of scale. At 28/32mm I vastly prefer NMM - even great metallic paints just look chintzy to me at that scale. 54mm is a toss up and anything larger than that TMM looks way better. Also depends on the sculpt. The more cartoony or stylized it is the more I am likely to want NMM on it, the more realistic or gritty the more I like TMM.
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Mar 3, 2016 21:25
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JoshTheStampede posted:For me it's a matter of scale. At 28/32mm I vastly prefer NMM - even great metallic paints just look chintzy to me at that scale. 54mm is a toss up and anything larger than that TMM looks way better. That's part of why I got Scale75's metallics. They grind the mica much finer, so the end result doesn't look like glitter/sequins on the mini (although that could be a cool effect on some minis).
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Mar 3, 2016 21:35
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Avenging Dentist posted:That's part of why I got Scale75's metallics. They grind the mica much finer, so the end result doesn't look like glitter/sequins on the mini (although that could be a cool effect on some minis). Yeah I got them too for this reason. The Alchemy paints in particular are really cool. More pearlescent than metallic really.
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Mar 3, 2016 23:07
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richyp posted:TLDR; Try some VMC if you like the texture and consistency then get Red, Pale Sand, Intermediate Green, Prussian Blue, Sky Grey, German Grey and German Orange and the washes from above to mix pretty much anything. Supplement with additional colours later. Thanks! I'll probably go with these instead of one of the sets along with some glass beads to combat the separation. Is there a reason you didn't include something like a bright yellow? I'm also thinking about getting a bottle of Vallejo Matte Medium to make washes per the Reaper shopping list along with brush on primers (black and white) and a matte varnish. I'm leaning towards brush on because sprays just seem kind of messy in comparison. The sprays seem more popular though, so are there any major downsides to brush ons versus the sprays?
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Mar 4, 2016 11:29
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Souffle posted:Thanks! I'll probably go with these instead of one of the sets along with some glass beads to combat the separation. Is there a reason you didn't include something like a bright yellow? For a bright yellow there's Deep Yellow(VMC 915). I didn't include it because I haven't used a bright yellow for anything in a long time, I tend to use pale sand for lightening colours where a yellow would work. Never made washes, but I do heavily use matte/glaze mediums to change the paint opacity without changing thickness. As for varnish I've never used a brush on one, but my one and only experience with spray ended badly. While we're still on paint chat I'm about to complete an order of scale 75 stuff,if it arrives tomorrow I'll report back otherwise I'll test it Monday assuming I can decide on what colours to get before the ordering deadline. EDIT: Just ordered some Scale 75 Paints and Washes Artic Blue (Looks like a VMC Sky Grey, be good to compare) Antares Red (Bright Red) Basic Flesh (Finally bought a flesh colour) Dubai Brown (Medium Brown) Eclipse Grey (Very Dark Grey, I'll use as black) Fushia (Pink for the hair on one of the Nomads) Graphite (Mid-tone Grey) Inktense Black (Ink/Wash) Inktense Blue (Ink/Wash) Inktense Chestnut (Ink/Wash) Irati Green (Medium Green) Sky Blue (Medium/Bright Blue) Sol Yellow (Bright Yellow) Tenere Yellow (looks like Pale Sand so I'm eager to compare how it lightens the colours) And some more Nomads stuff. All paid for from ebaying an old OOP GW book  Ordered from Element Games in UK who I can definitely recommend as I've ordered a lot of stuff from them recently and when ordered before 2pm has always arrived next morning. richyp fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Mar 4, 2016 |
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Mar 4, 2016 12:05
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Tenere Yellow is darker than Pale Sand by a good bit I think, but it's still a good color. And the Inktensity colors are way to strong to use neat as a wash but are great for...inky stuff like glazes and saturating stuff. I'll warn you that scale75 takes a little getting used to but they're good.
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Mar 4, 2016 16:01
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JoshTheStampede posted:Tenere Yellow is darker than Pale Sand by a good bit I think, but it's still a good color. And the Inktensity colors are way to strong to use neat as a wash but are great for...inky stuff like glazes and saturating stuff. Yeah l had to eyeball the colours from photo's I'm guessing Tenere is more like Dark Sand but I tend to mix stuff rather than use pure colours so I can always tone it down with the light grey. I bought the inks expecting them to be like the old school GW inks such as Chestnut Ink  I've read they're a totally different experience to paint with than what I'm used to but I like a challenge and have no doubt that my first few attempts at using them will probably be quite bad It was either buy some new paints to play with or put the cash towards an airbrush and after way too much procrastination I settled on paints with the realisation that I'd probably be relegated to the garage to airbrush due to the fact I have to leave the room kid proof at the end of each session. That and I'm too lazy/impatient to properly maintain one, so I'm probably stuck to old school one off/single painting session models for a few years.
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Mar 4, 2016 16:59
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Does anyone know of a good tutorial, or have any tips on painting flames and billowing black smoke? My current project uses that flaming wrecking ball from the Skaven Plague furnace, and I want to have it be a trailing flames and billowing black smoke, but I don't know what the best technique would be.
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Mar 4, 2016 17:07
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richyp posted:Yeah l had to eyeball the colours from photo's I'm guessing Tenere is more like Dark Sand but I tend to mix stuff rather than use pure colours so I can always tone it down with the light grey. I bought the inks expecting them to be like the old school GW inks such as Chestnut Ink Actually they aren't unlike the old GW inks. They're stronger, more INKTENSE, but if you cut them a little it'd probably be similar. I still have a pot of chestnut ink banging around somewhere, I'll see if I can do a side by side with the Scale one. The paints are thick, and super pigmented. I find most of the colors kinda bad for basecoating easily but great for blending and they take to thinning well so they're also good for glazing. I'm sure you have heard how matte they are but that also means they tend to dry fast so be aware of that or counter it with whatever medium you want.
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Mar 4, 2016 17:30
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How thin will the scale 75 go? Will they stay together at 10:1 water to paint?
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Mar 4, 2016 18:17
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:How thin will the scale 75 go? Will they stay together at 10:1 water to paint? I would be very surprised if not, and a little medium will extend it even farther.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:20
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Frobbe posted:Cadians! Prepare to die for your EMPEROR! I read "Canadians" at first, now I want to see these guys decked out in Mountie colours.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:30
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Hey guys what are some good pinks for making rad hot rod space ships and vehicles? Also what's the best way to get them to look nice? Plain white primer? Plain white with a warmer undercoat?
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Mar 4, 2016 18:32
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