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Fluorescent pink from any of the major ranges? It's very radical. You should definitely be applying it over white. Note- regardless of brand fluorescent paint is kinda a pain to work with because it's always pretty transparent. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Mar 4, 2016 |
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Mar 4, 2016 18:41
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richyp posted:EDIT: Just ordered some Scale 75 Paints and Washes As per usual, let me know if you find any really excellent colors and I'll add them to the list.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:45
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Avenging Dentist posted:As per usual, let me know if you find any really excellent colors and I'll add them to the list. I really like the whole NMM Steel Set (the blues I think are Arctic, Caspian, Bering, Abyssal) which are Shadow-Grey style desaturated blues. I don't love the base skintones but the African/Indian/Arabic Shadow colors are great. E: for content here's a WIP, her dress and eyes are mostly Scale75 Carribean Blue shaded with VMC Dark Sea Blue. The red on the flowers is Aldebaran Red (or Antares, I don't remember which one is the pure blood red and not the orangey one) 
JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 4, 2016 |
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Mar 4, 2016 18:48
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Fluorescent pink from any of the major ranges? It's very radical. You should definitely be applying it over white. Just pure white? Sometimes that ends up looking too odd and bright and makes for harder highlighting, which is why I asked if another layer is usually applied first.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:50
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Chill la Chill posted:Just pure white? Sometimes that ends up looking too odd and bright and makes for harder highlighting, which is why I asked if another layer is usually applied first. Depends on how radical you are going, I guess. If you want xtreme radical then absolutely fluorescent over pure white. Fluorescents cover for poo poo and being extremely bright is what they're there for. If you want just a little radical then you can use whatever your normal painting process is with non fluorescent pinks. Basecoat shouldn't matter too much.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:57
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Chill la Chill posted:Hey guys what are some good pinks for making rad hot rod space ships and vehicles? Also what's the best way to get them to look nice? Plain white primer? Plain white with a warmer undercoat? Like you want them to be glossy like a hot rod? Iv used Tamiya Clear Coats to make hot rod red and it worked really well. You prime black, then paint metallic silver then use the clear coat. Makes it look like a new car.
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Mar 4, 2016 19:12
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Wow, this is excellent looking. I love the detail in the skin, especially the veins.
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Mar 4, 2016 19:39
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Depends on how radical you are going, I guess. If you want xtreme radical then absolutely fluorescent over pure white. Fluorescents cover for poo poo and being extremely bright is what they're there for.  Is there a more "normal" pink though? I was hoping I could use the more fluorescent one as highlights. I understand that for really bright colors you might be stuck with painting the highlight and you have to work at shading it otherwise. Is that my only option here?TouchToneDialing posted:Like you want them to be glossy like a hot rod? Iv used Tamiya Clear Coats to make hot rod red and it worked really well.
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Mar 4, 2016 19:47
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Avenging Dentist posted:As per usual, let me know if you find any really excellent colors and I'll add them to the list. They've been despatched today so fingers crossed they should be here sometime tomorrow. I'll have a play around with various combinations of paints, mediums and inks on some of the unpainted Calth Marines I bought before I realised I actually wanted to paint anything but Space Marines. If I get some time I'll do a side by side of a couple of the colours vs VMC and GW.
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Mar 4, 2016 19:58
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Chill la Chill posted:Is there a more "normal" pink though? I was hoping I could use the more fluorescent one as highlights. I understand that for really bright colors you might be stuck with painting the highlight and you have to work at shading it otherwise. Is that my only option here? My go to brightish pink is VMC pink 70958. You can highlight that with fluorescent pink by glazing up, but yeah, if I'm going super bright I start with the highlight and shade down. Reaper pale violet red, violet red, and burgundy wine are good for shading down pink, and also what I use to add color depth to my skintone shadows. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Mar 4, 2016 |
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Mar 4, 2016 19:59
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Thank you. That's the advice I was looking for. 
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Mar 4, 2016 20:15
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Took some pics of old stuff I need to unload, but figured I'd spam them here too. Because I can, dammit. Salamanders <3         
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Mar 4, 2016 20:47
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As the owner of some Salamanders I want to get rid of, let me say, dammit Fyrbrand.
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Mar 4, 2016 21:06
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gently caress yeah
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Mar 4, 2016 22:05
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A quick modelling question - does anyone else like to base tanks? A large base, of course, makes the model awkward to use in games, but I've found that a base just slightly larger than the footprint of the vehicle makes it more robust, prevents damage to the paint, and allows for some interesting modeling like mud and debris around the tracks. Plus, i really like the way it looks. I've used the baseplates of Warhammer modular basing trays in the past, since they were relatively cheap, tough, and easy to cut to the right size in dead straight lines. They've been discontinued for a while now though, and getting suprisingly expensive. Does anyone know of a good alternative, preferably plastic?
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Mar 5, 2016 00:36
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Galaspar posted:A quick modelling question - does anyone else like to base tanks? A large base, of course, makes the model awkward to use in games, but I've found that a base just slightly larger than the footprint of the vehicle makes it more robust, prevents damage to the paint, and allows for some interesting modeling like mud and debris around the tracks. Plus, i really like the way it looks. I've used the baseplates of Warhammer modular basing trays in the past, since they were relatively cheap, tough, and easy to cut to the right size in dead straight lines. They've been discontinued for a while now though, and getting suprisingly expensive. Does anyone know of a good alternative, preferably plastic? How thick, and are you willing to cut it yourself?
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Mar 5, 2016 01:15
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Roughly 3mm, and much as I'd rather not cut it myself, i think that's what I'll probably end up doing. Thick plasticard, a metal ruler and a bit of patience ought to do it.
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Mar 5, 2016 01:35
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Galaspar posted:Roughly 3mm, and much as I'd rather not cut it myself, i think that's what I'll probably end up doing. Thick plasticard, a metal ruler and a bit of patience ought to do it. Litko.net's basemaker would be a good place to start. It'll be expensive but you can get exactly the rectangle you want in MDF or acrylic, laser cut.
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Mar 5, 2016 02:05
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Warbases might also have what you need. They're situated in the UK so it might take a bit to get there, but you can get a hell of a lot of MDF for cheap.
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Mar 5, 2016 03:36
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jadebullet posted:Hmm, good idea about the Sepia and brown washes, thanks. As for browns, I am not sure how much I will be able to get with my current paint scheme. (see above) It is wrought iron black and silver. I feel like if you mute the original colors of whatever chapter heraldry and add enough washes of black and browns and chipping of paint, and step up the gore/horror angle on the more brightly colored dudes, you should be okay. Like how this Ultramarine is dark blue and silver, washed down and darkened, rather than bright blue and gold.
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Mar 5, 2016 07:26
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  A pair of WIP shots of the Chimera I'm working on right now but I'm not too sure if Elysian Green is the colour I should go for when it comes to edge highlighting it or if I should go for a darker green. It is also frustrating to discover that the PSC British tank spray colour and VMC 924 Russian Uniform are in slightly different tones which makes any spot repairs noticeable.
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Mar 5, 2016 14:26
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Here's my last couple of weeks painting. I'm really pleased considering I couldn't use my right hand for much of the last 9 months 
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Mar 5, 2016 17:02
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I've just started trying to actively edge highlight my shermans instead of doing lazy drybrush and, while I am still Bad At Paints, holy poo poo is there a lot more definition on them. There's no way in hell that I'd have time to do this for a tankovy company, but for four shermans, it looks quite nice.
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Mar 5, 2016 17:21
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Got back to working on dropzone stuff after that armada sidetrack. Previously i had tried to attach tails to my light dropships on top of the existing models but that never looked quite right. So today i made a little jig to accurately position them on the cnc mill and carved out a little pocket.  As a result the latest revision fits much better with the existing lines and i'm almost satisfied enough to do a little 12 piece run.   The only things i want to change as of now are stronger bevels and a different lower panel line on the vertical stabilizers. I'm thinking of putting it parallel to the bottom edge. If anyone can think of anything else i'd be happy about suggestions.
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Mar 5, 2016 19:13
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Walked into a mini store, owner saw me hovering over the scale 75 range and let me try them. It's not a joke when people say they are gloopy as hell out of the bottle and they dry fast. But they were interesting to use and thinned down they layer super well. Pretty sure I'll pick some of the blues and whites once I finish my relocation.
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Mar 5, 2016 20:24
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Mango Polo posted:Walked into a mini store, owner saw me hovering over the scale 75 range and let me try them. Coincidentally I just went outside to the garage and noticed a box left in back yard, turns out at some point today the delivery guy decided to leave these in my garden all day without letting me know.  Time to stick a pin in them and give them a test drive. EDIT: I seem to be having an issue with the colours not really covering very well and the dried paint just rubbing off at the slightest touch for some reason. Test mini, metal primed white. Painted Blue, Red, Green, Yellow all 1:1 mix of Paint and Water mix(medium, water, flow enhancer) which is the same ratio as I use for VMC. The colours are only barely staining the white and working more like a glaze than I expected with reports of how thick they're supposed to be. After painting those colours, I tried the inks on the back of the model which are really INKTENSE!! as Josh mentioned, but do work like GW washes if watered down about 3-4 times the amount of water to ink. After 20 mins I picked the model up and the green, red and blue are just wiping off in little flecks like I used a pencil eraser on the model. I'm also not really noticing the gloopiness, straight out of the bottle they're about the same as VMC for me and when thinned the same ratios I normally use are barely even colouring over white. I did give them a pretty good shake and I'm not noticing any separation when dropping the paint onto the palette but I'm obviously doing something wrong. FAKE EDIT: 30 mins since I painted the green now and I was just able to wipe it off the model completely.  EDIT 2: Image  The one coat test image (the flesh colour was painted over the original paint, the rest of the model was white). As you can see 1:1 thinned flesh wont even cover the previous paint, it barely glazed it, the green on the right rubbed off after 30 mins and the completely unthinned red was about as thin coverage as I'm used to with a heavily thinned VMC :?: The sword was one coat of 1:1 gray water, and barely left a mark (it also completely wiped off the tip after I picked the model up to photo it, again after about 30 mins of drying time. The only bits that seemed to work was the hair (Tenere Yellow and Watered down Brown Ink) and the pure brown ink over the rest of the brown. The green splotch over the blue is from when I picked the model up after touching the "dried" green paint and not noticing it had come off onto my finger 
richyp fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Mar 5, 2016 |
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Mar 5, 2016 20:40
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In the early 90s my father covered all of his RC airplanes in plastic sheets that he heated to shrink around the frame. Is there anything small/thin enough to apply to miniature models? Could it be customized? Yes, I want to wrap my starship.
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Mar 6, 2016 07:44
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I remember a while ago, a bunch of people talked about a specific miniatures painting series of tutorials (by some guy from BoardGameGeek, possibly). I thought his name started with an S. I'm looking for sort of a basic "start to finish" set of tutorials in one place (e.g. from priming to finishing). I would appreciate if any kind Goon who remembers what I'm talking about could post a link, and I'll be smart enough to bookmark it this time.
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Mar 6, 2016 16:45
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Do you mean this guy? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=user?MiniwargamerJ?videos
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Mar 6, 2016 16:48
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Sounds like Sorastro https://www.youtube.com/user/Sorastro
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Mar 6, 2016 17:08
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Scale 75 Test Attempt 2 Painted using only S75 paints hence why the face isn't done (I only have the base flesh colour, so it's not really detailed). More success this time, turns out that the Flow Enhancer I use seems to really gently caress up the paint and as I always have a pot of water I think with that has it added I tried to rule out everything else. I'm still finding the paint takes a lot longer to dry than I'm used to with VMC, but it does make it really easy to blend with. The greys on the hexes were done in two greys and white all directly after another and the first colour was still wet when I moved on to grey. I barely needed to thin the paints, certainly no where near as much as I do with VMC paints where I tend to use 2 or 3 parts water. Here I was just dipping the tip of my brush in water then stirring the paint on the palette with it once. Something really weird with the green though, even after shaking it for about 5 mins it's still coming out of the bottle like luminious green translucent gel. Most of the really bad OSL attempt was done in greys then I just painted the green over the whole area due to how really thin it was followed with a few passes of yellow. All in all I think I'll mostly be using them as details paints rather than using them for an entire model as I'm finding myself twiddling my thumbs literally watching paint dry and for basecoating that'll probably drive me nuts. I'm finding the inks,are REALLY good though. They're very strong, as in ink from a fountain pen/cartridge pen strong. The lines on the grey hexes were painted with a 3:1 mix of black ink and water as were the lines on the rifle. Colours testing and personal opinion: Over grey primer. Eclipse Grey A nice base colour for black, it dries similar to a chalk board both in colour and texture. The black on this model is Eclipse Grey washed with the very watered down black ink. A very matte VMC German Grey Graphite Grey The mid tone I used on the hexes on the leg. Decent standard grey similar colour to bare grey primer. Closest to VMC Neutral Grey / Basalt Grey I guess. Arctic Blue One of the highlight colours for the grey hexes and weapon. A kind of old school Space Wolf Grey or VMC Sky grey with a tiny hint of blue. Nice all rounder. White Only really used to lighten the Arctic Blue, and the Sol Yellow. It's white, in my attempts it had pretty poor coverage compared to other whites I've used. Over grey primer it took 3-4 passes to take. Irati Green The colour is really bright, but I think my bottle is odd or I'm using it wrong as it's not really behaving like paint unless I drybrush it. Using it like paint is like pulling a thin green shampoo over a model and just glazing the layer below. Sol Yellow Really bright Yellow, used as the highlight for the lighting. Painting over the green took a few layers but it did work well as a highlight for it. Equivalent to VMC Yellow or GW's old Bad Moon Yellow. Inktense Black & Inktense Blue  Inktense!!! They're inks, VERY STRONG will completely cover anything under them and stay put like paint. Thinned about 5:1 with water the Black Ink will turn it into Nuln Oil with less pooling and staining. The hexes on the grey legs were washed with this then I used a drybrush to wipe the spills. The Blue Ink is very similar to ink from a blue pen with similar levels of glossiness. I'd probably thin it about 10:1 if I was shading red or green with it as it will just make everything blue otherwise, even at 3-5:1 it still looked like a pen had spilled onto the model. The hexes on the legs were washed with the blue after the first grey was painted in order to add a bit of a metallic look to them.Overall, solid paints and inks and I can see why people rave about them. They're very different to work with than anything else I've used, and as JoshTheStampede and Mango Polo mentioned, they're "gloopy" but not thick, almost gel like but looks like paint not gel if that makes any sense at all  Though I didn't think they dried quickly, quite the reverse, maybe its fast compared to other paints and not VMC?For me personally and the way I paint I'll probably use them for individual one off models due to how long I was waiting for the paint to dry where as for units either 1 at or time or in groups I'll probably stick to VMC for the most part as I can be straight from one colour to the next without waiting, and I don't seem to have any issues with the various mediums I use in water. I WILL use the inks though as they're versatile as wash, glaze and for black lining and I'll most certainly use the paints for fine details as they're nice to control due to the lack of heavy thinning required compared to VMC. Avenging Dentist posted:As per usual, let me know if you find any really excellent colors and I'll add them to the list. From the ones I've used I'd definitely recommend: Scale 75 Basic Flesh - Nice matte starting point for white skin. Don't have the other flesh colours, but I'm guessing they're all good. Scale 75 Eclipse Grey - A really good base for "black" as it's almost black but not quite, i.e can be shaded with black and highlighted with lighter greys/blues. Scale 75 Inktense Black - It's a black ink, not much to say but it'll have a tonne of uses. richyp fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Mar 6, 2016 |
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Mar 6, 2016 17:12
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Theres a local store that carries these i think, ill grab a few and give them a try next time i'm there. That said, vmc fluo green with its abysmal coverage has been my go to for glow effects for years  Also i got a paint set by andrea colour ages ago and ended up using the two highlight colours as main colours for my dropzone vehicles. I've looked through their range and they dont seem to sell these seperately. Does anyone happeb know equivalents? Worst case ill just buy another set or two, all the colours are useful i just need proportionally more of the highlights.
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Mar 6, 2016 17:39
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richyp posted:Overall, solid paints and inks and I can see why people rave about them. They're very different to work with than anything else I've used, and as JoshTheStampede and Mango Polo mentioned, they're "gloopy" but not thick, almost gel like but looks like paint not gel if that makes any sense at all Hm, I only got to try three of the paints, and the pots were used for demos/pretty empty/also assuming old. Could be why they were drying so quickly for me? I don't remember how the VMC dries, but I could drop a layer, work on another area of the model, and quickly come back to drop another layer without issues.
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Mar 6, 2016 17:41
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Is Vallejo game color 72.001 (dead white) or 72.101 (off white) similar enough to VMC ivory white to use?
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Mar 6, 2016 18:29
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Chill la Chill posted:Is Vallejo game color 72.001 (dead white) or 72.101 (off white) similar enough to VMC ivory white to use? Dug out the bottles to compare them: VMC ivory (70.918) is only a teensy bit more yellow/cream than VGC off-white (72.101). Dead white is just plain 'ole white - it's not really a good match.
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Mar 6, 2016 18:49
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OneTrueBru posted:Dug out the bottles to compare them: VMC ivory (70.918) is only a teensy bit more yellow/cream than VGC off-white (72.101). Dead white is just plain 'ole white - it's not really a good match. Thanks for the quick reply! I'm actually browsing at the LGS right now so I'll give it a shot. I'd love to get ivory white sometime but don't want to put in a bigger order for just that yet E: I'll get 72.098 at the same time cuz it looks more creamy than off white and hopefully those cover it. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Mar 6, 2016 |
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Mar 6, 2016 18:59
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So I'm starting to find myself in need of some new brushes, primarily for edge highlighting as the small brushes I have can't seem to keep their tip for long enough. I was thinking of Ichiban brushes from Games & Gears but 35 pound price tag is kind of hefty. But what other alternatives are there? Aside from just getting GW brushes or something.
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Mar 6, 2016 19:24
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Cooked Auto posted:So I'm starting to find myself in need of some new brushes, primarily for edge highlighting as the small brushes I have can't seem to keep their tip for long enough. I was thinking of Ichiban brushes from Games & Gears but 35 pound price tag is kind of hefty. But what other alternatives are there? Aside from just getting GW brushes or something. I've recently bought Winsor & Newton Series 7 Short size 1 and 2, they're pretty drat nice and aren't that expensive per brush. I will be buying a size 3 and size 0 sometime in the future though. the short means the hairs aren't so long, making it easier to control when painting miniatures and such.
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Mar 6, 2016 19:27
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I don't know from experience because I don't paint enough to justify the purchase, but everything I've read indicates the Series 7, while seeming expensive, will save you money in the long run if you take care of them because they'll last multiple times longer than cheaper alternatives. I always get the feeling that when you're buying brushes FOR painting miniatures (like those G&G ones, Army Painter, or Citadel's (lol)) you're sort of paying a price for a special property that doesn't really exist because miniatures don't need special brushes, just small brushes.
opulent fountain fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Mar 6, 2016 |
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Mar 6, 2016 19:38
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The Series 7 used to be the gold standard. They've slipped a tiny bit on QA, though - they're still fantastic brushes but now you'll get a lemon every ten brushes or so. I like those (the normal Series 7, not Series 7 Miniature), as well as Raphael 8404s. The Raphaels run large - I have a 3/0 which is about the same size as a W&N 0. Rosemary & Co is a brand people love and is much cheaper - I have some and the quality is high but they have longer bristles which I don't prefer personally. Davinci Maestro is another good brand. Apart from crappy brushes for mixing paint and such, like 90% of my painting is done with a W&N 1, a W&N 0, and the 3/0 from Raphael. And yeah, they last a long time if you take care of them - I have never thrown out a kolinsky brush in 5+ years of painting except when it was my own dumb fault.
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Mar 6, 2016 19:47
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