|
Is it the trans fluid that flows into the radiator through those connectors? If so you can probably just put it in as is. I'd cap off everything else and add some water from the top to find out.
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 01:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 22:59 |
|
|
It's already capped off, you can see it in the pic.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 03:46
|
|
|
Phone posted:It's already capped off, you can see it in the pic. Those aren't very good caps. Theyre barely on and can be pulled off with no effort. Theres currently some 3/8 hose connecting the two ends. I lost daylight before I got everything bolted in so I'll have to finish up in the morning and see if it works.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 03:50
|
|
|
Don't worry about it, there won't be any fluid going through it so it's not an issue.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 04:16
|
|
|
So awhile back we had a discussion about what to do when you store a car but what do you do when you're taking a car out of storage? It's getting nice outside so it's about time to take the Miata out of the garage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 05:06
|
|
|
leica posted:Don't worry about it, there won't be any fluid going through it so it's not an issue. Can confirm. I bought a similar radiator a while ago. The bottom section is for ATF or something, but there isn't cross contamination between coolant and ATF in the radiator (obviously). You will be okay even if you don't cap them. Edit - You likely got the right part, but they made it so it fits both transmissions. Chriskory fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Mar 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 06:19
|
|
|
Yeah I'm pretty sure the aftermarket radiator in my Miata has them too. Just ignore them if you have a manual trans basically.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 07:13
|
|
|
leica posted:Yeah I'm pretty sure the aftermarket radiator in my Miata has them too. Just ignore them if you have a manual trans basically. It seems really weird to me that an automatic Miata would need a tranny cooler but I've given up on trying to understand the logic behind Mazda decisions.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 17:45
|
|
|
Heat is the enemy of longevity?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 18:10
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:It seems really weird to me that an automatic Miata would need a tranny cooler but I've given up on trying to understand the logic behind Mazda decisions. I wonder if you could turn that trans cooler into an oil cooler somehow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 18:44
|
|
|
leica posted:Don't worry about it, there won't be any fluid going through it so it's not an issue. After a test drive there doesn't seem to be any fluid in it. But I already have the hose on there so  on changing it.Thanks for all the help and info guys. I'm running smooth again. 
Great Beer fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Mar 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 20:38
|
|
|
They don't connect to the main system. If you done have hose to cap me go ahead and leave them open. They are open on my race car.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 00:32
|
|
|
Great Beer posted:After a test drive there doesn't seem to be any fluid in it. But I already have the hose on there so What I meant by fluid was transmission fluid. If you don't have any trans lines hooked up to it, there's nothing running through it. The tranny cooler is integrated but it's separate from the radiator, there's no coolant running through it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 02:38
|
|
|
Oh, I get it now. I guess I misinterpreted what geoj said and was assuming it ran the same coolant for the engine and the transmission cooler.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 02:42
|
|
|
mariooncrack posted:So awhile back we had a discussion about what to do when you store a car but what do you do when you're taking a car out of storage? It's getting nice outside so it's about time to take the Miata out of the garage. Funny you ask, I'll be doing this with my Miata this very Friday! Here's what I'll be doing, which is essentially just the reverse of the storage process: ***Call insurance to reactivate collision coverage, bring updated card if necessary *Bring battery, keys (car and lock on storage unit,) air compressor *Remove & pack up car cover *Check air in tires (they should be overinflated, so deflate or note tires that may be leaking!) *Engage parking brake, remove chocks ***Remove rags (from exhaust, anywhere you've plugged up to keep out critters) *Reattach (or reinstall new) wiper blades, remove padding/rags *Reinstall battery *Fire it up & go! ***Check out at storage facility's office I usually change the oil soon after coming out of storage, just do whatever routine maintenance you feel to be prudent at this point. I find that the car struggles to start up the first time after storage, and I'm not sure if it has something to do with the car itself (being old, or needing some kind of work) or if that's just to be expected after 4 months (which is actually going to be a pleasantly brief storage period this time!)
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 07:33
|
|
|
Forgot to mention that I ended up getting 17x8 tungsten 6ULs with 235/40 Yokohama S.drives
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2016 08:15
|
|
|
My friend and I did some work on the Gray Turd today. Changed out the front control arms with a set polyurethane bushing'd control arms that was originally going to go in to the black shell. Also swapped out the shocks for a set of tokico Blues with FM gen 1 springs, and FCM modified NB top hats for more travel. Interestingly enough, the previous owner put some decent parts on it. Upgraded front sway bar, a discontinued autokonextion front bumper, 1.8 motor, 1.8 brakes, leather NB seats (which are torn up). It just made sense to put my good parts on it and drive it 
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2016 09:38
|
|
|
I'm a puss. I drove a Club and Grand Touring back to back and prefer the Grand Touring. If only Mazda offered a GT with the Club model's differential. That would be the ideal car for me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2016 16:34
|
|
|
Today I decided it is spring enough that my -97 NA can finally come out of winter storage. Also, someone saw fit to get dirt all over my seat.  Now I just need to change the oil and install a Megasquirt, two thousand various other things and a turbo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2016 23:30
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:It seems really weird to me that an automatic Miata would need a tranny cooler but I've given up on trying to understand the logic behind Mazda decisions. I have never seen an automatic car without at least the in-radiator cooler. The alternative is an external cooler that costs more and would probably require a thermostat.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
Mine came out for the spring as well. Autox next weekend. Since two weeks ago: new tires, painted some bits, oil, and front brake pads. Rewired the wideband to try and stop it from running way too rich, only to have the serial to USB cable from my ms1 driver gently caress me for the 10th time. I cut it in half and 1 day ordered 2 more from Amazon. One has to work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 00:22
|
|
|
Boston has been kind this winter and I was able to start driving the NC again in mid February. I drove the Miata every day this week too. About time to put the summer tires back on the fiesta too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 00:28
|
|
|
this is probably a terrible idea but how terrible is it? I've already got an aem fic/harness/wideband. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 04:37
|
|
|
Bud posted:Mine came out for the spring as well. Autox next weekend. Since two weeks ago: new tires, painted some bits, oil, and front brake pads. It really sucks, makes me nervous to buy a USB-serial cable. Hopefully soon the Chinese start using their homegrown chip and just cut FTDI out altogether.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 04:41
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:A lot of USB-serial converter stuff is getting grenaded under Windows because FTDI (the company that makes one of the more popular chips for it) has decided that they will intentionally damage or interfere with Chinese clone versions of their chip. Mine was a clone cable, but I had got it going on a dedicated lenovo after trying a zillion drivers. Then Windows did what it does best and changed something. It recognized the ECU at 9am, by 11 it did not. There is a Bluetooth from diyautotune but I dunno. Edit: read those links, I knew some of the nonsense but that's unbelievable. Bud fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Mar 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 04:46
|
|
|
crutt posted:this is probably a terrible idea but how terrible is it? I've already got an aem fic/harness/wideband. The cxracing is just a lovely Chinese ebay turbo. Manifolds are good, but why pay for two? I bet the intercooler is ebay trash too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 21:14
|
|
|
Support goons and buy the TSE kit so that you'll get Savington off of my god drat dick.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 23:39
|
|
|
Haha I thought that name was familiar. I don't really have 3k to spend on just a manifold and turbo though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2016 02:53
|
|
|
I bought a CX Racing intercooler kit for my old Supra. It was very nice, actually. The parts weren't plug and play, but the individual pieces were decent quality.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2016 16:38
|
|
|
ionn posted:Today I decided it is spring enough that my -97 NA can finally come out of winter storage. Also, someone saw fit to get dirt all over my seat. Dog does not approve life choices. Desires pets and chin scritches.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2016 16:41
|
|
|
Brake guys: My brake fluid was low when I went to bring the car out after not driving for a few months. I topped off, but my pedal is still "soft". I think the booster is working because I can feel the pedal lower if I hold it in while I start the car, and I bled all 4 corners to check for air but they were good. The pedal never really firms up like you would expect when pumping it. The car *does* stop but only a little bit of braking force is happening. I ordered a master cylinder, does that seem like the likely culprit?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2016 04:29
|
|
|
Just ran into this issue myself on my RSX, I let air get into the ABS module when I installed my SS brake lines and had to send it to Acura to have them plug in their super special tool that tells the ABS to run while they're vacuum bleeding the brakes. Hopefully your fix isn't that dramatic but I imagine it could be your master cylinder seal giving out and allowing air in the beginning of the system. The older the MC the more likely that's the issue. Edit; just remembered too that before you install a brand new MC you want to bench bleed it, how I have no idea because I've never replaced a MC but I'm sure Google can set you on the path of righteousness. Or someone here can chime in on how to do that. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Mar 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2016 04:51
|
|
|
crutt posted:Haha I thought that name was familiar. I don't really have 3k to spend on just a manifold and turbo though. All Facebook car related groups are awful.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2016 05:01
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:Brake guys: My brake fluid was low when I went to bring the car out after not driving for a few months. I topped off, but my pedal is still "soft". I think the booster is working because I can feel the pedal lower if I hold it in while I start the car, and I bled all 4 corners to check for air but they were good. The pedal never really firms up like you would expect when pumping it. The car *does* stop but only a little bit of braking force is happening. Yeah sounds like the seals on your MC are shot.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2016 06:08
|
|
|
destructo posted:Then go buy a FM DIY kit ($750), a cheap SR20 T25 ($100-200), ebay intercooler kit ($150), rx8 injectors ($80), misc fittings/hoses ($100) and a MS1 Megasquirt ($300). You can do the whole thing for less than 2k and not buy lovely parts. Any reason I shouldn't have have Abe at artech build me a stainless log manifold and downpipe for about $100 more than fm? He's local to me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2016 07:53
|
|
|
How many dollarydoos should I offer for this guy?: http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5493505960.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 16:38
|
|
|
willroc7 posted:How many dollarydoos should I offer for this guy?: Maybe $2500? Check the Vin for SNC.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 16:43
|
|
|
Steel wheels with hubcaps = no options. And 1.6. No more than 3k, and I'd start less than that. Over 3k is nice 1.8 territory.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 16:43
|
|
|
Seems decent if you want something to toss around the track. I'd buy it to strip off the good stuff and sell the bad with the car, and keep the hard top...If I had another red miata that wasn't a 1.6L to swap stuff to. lol http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5491372797.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 17:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 22:59 |
|
|
The other day I had to tension the alternator belt which was squealing and slipping (I changed it late last summer and it must have gotten longer or less grippy over winter). The PS belt was a bit loose so I decided to increase the tension there too. I didn't loosen the bolt holding the tensioner enough, it got stuck after moving a little bit, and being a mechanical supergenius I just kept on wrenching until I broke the bolt. No big deal, I got a generic M8x70mm one to replace it. The short bit I drove it without power steering was enough to convince me not to even consider removing it altogether though.  So now, I have exactly one 13mm bolt on the entire car. There is also one 15mm bolt+nut in one of the rear swaybar drop-links which I also broke taking it apart last year (not quite as much my fault, it was rusted as gently caress). But what good is a socket set if you don't use all of them? Also, as can be seen, the tensioner is near the end of its range. It's a generic 865mm belt I got from somewhere (it was not quite as close before I tensioned it up, I guess it's close to 870mm by now). Are the proper ones supposed to be 850? 855?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 13:27
|
|