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Falco posted:Looks like the Micro Jig GRR-Ripper 3D Pushblock (GR-100) is on sale at Amazon and on the manufacturers site with a $15 MIR, making it $44. I've never owned a pushblock, but have made some stupid choices with the table saw, so it may be time to pony up. Along with a new blade to replace the cheapy factory blade. Definitely replace the factory blade. It will be a "why didn't I do that sooner?" moment. I have a Grippper bought on sale and have never regretted the $$. I don't use it all the time, sometimes a different pushstick shape is better but for those times I use it, it's the perfect tool and I feel safer with it. That said I went many years without one so I consider it a luxury not a necessity. In other news, I may have bought another lathe so I'm back up to three. Also in lathe news I finally finished the wiring on the Delta I bought last fall and I'm a woodturner again (or a "laither" as my wife puts it). The lathe I bought is a Nova Comet II that was retired by my local woodworking club because the motor shut down once after six straight hours of turning. I bought it cheap enough that if I don't like it I should have no trouble flipping it.
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Mar 7, 2016 20:47
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is the porter cable 4112 dovetail jig pretty much the standard for Dovetail jigs?
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Mar 7, 2016 21:05
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wormil posted:Definitely replace the factory blade. It will be a "why didn't I do that sooner?" moment. I have a Grippper bought on sale and have never regretted the $$. I don't use it all the time, sometimes a different pushstick shape is better but for those times I use it, it's the perfect tool and I feel safer with it. That said I went many years without one so I consider it a luxury not a necessity. Let me know if you get it running. I may be interested in picking it up.
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Mar 7, 2016 21:19
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wormil posted:Definitely replace the factory blade. It will be a "why didn't I do that sooner?" moment. I have a Grippper bought on sale and have never regretted the $$. I don't use it all the time, sometimes a different pushstick shape is better but for those times I use it, it's the perfect tool and I feel safer with it. That said I went many years without one so I consider it a luxury not a necessity. I was looking at the Diablo 60 or 80 tooth versions. For $40 it seems like a great blade from what I've read. Most of what I do is just general projects with a little job site saw, so I don't need anything special, just reasonably smooth cuts. Is this the best bang for the buck?
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Mar 7, 2016 21:31
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I finally finished making the handle for the 50 cent carcase saw I bought last month. Started by ripping a piece of birch in half, and planing it to final thickness.  Then I traced on a pattern and bored out the tightest curves with a brace and bit.  Used a coping saw to take out the rest, and did final shaping with chisels, rasp, files, and sandpaper.  After a soak in tung oil, and a beeswax coat, here's the final result  The handle hardware is just hardware-store steel coach bolts and brass sleeve nuts, I couldn't find a non-usurious source for traditional saw nuts.  I had a bit of problem with breakout while boring the bolt holes, but everything holds surprisingly well. I worry that the hang angle may not be right for the handle, but so far haven't had much issue. Time will tell. 
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Mar 7, 2016 22:11
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Free Market Mambo posted:I finally finished making the handle for the 50 cent carcase saw I bought last month. Nice, but it appears really thin at the narrowest point. Not worried about snapping it?
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Mar 7, 2016 23:00
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GEMorris posted:Let me know if you get it running. I may be interested in picking it up. Roger. Or maybe you'd like a sweet 20's era Goodell Pratt lathe. Falco posted:I was looking at the Diablo 60 or 80 tooth versions. For $40 it seems like a great blade from what I've read. Most of what I do is just general projects with a little job site saw, so I don't need anything special, just reasonably smooth cuts. Is this the best bang for the buck? 40 tooth if it's your main or only blade. My recommendation would be 40T GP or 50T combo, then add a glue line rip when you can. Looking at previous posts you have a benchtop saw -- it takes a lot less power to rip with a ripping blade than with either a combo or GP blade. And don't ask me the difference between combo and general purpose  The ferrule isn't that long, I used a second piece to drive on the first and got it stuck. The copper was a mirror polish but I got some finish on it and tried to wipe it off.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:37
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I'm keeping my eye out locally for a thickness planer in Craigslist. Any tips for what to look out for? There was one of the cheap deltas available this morning for $100 (Canadian) but I took too long considering and missed out. There's a guy trying to sell one of those alien head style (craftsman?) planers and listing it as 'mint condition'. No pictures and he wants $200. I'm tempted to take a look and offer less. I guess those ones are only 6" wide but one side is open so you can run the wood through then turn it around for another pass to get an effective 12" width.
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Mar 8, 2016 06:33
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Alien head planers are a curiosity, not something you'd want to use. Grab a dewalt or makita lunchbox, or look for a used parks or 4 post planer. If you're buying new and not a lunchbox, I'd personally save up to get a 12" JP combo.
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Mar 8, 2016 14:10
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GEMorris posted:Alien head planers are a curiosity, not something you'd want to use. Grab a dewalt or makita lunchbox, or look for a used parks or 4 post planer. Thanks. I've got a jointer already though I need to get it set up at some point. I've seen the lower end Dewalt planer a few times on craigslist. Never seen a Makita up here in Vancouver. I'm generally looking to spend under $200 and a new Dewalt is $600-800 here I think. I'll keep my eye out, I'm sure something will pop up eventually.
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Mar 8, 2016 16:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:Nice, but it appears really thin at the narrowest point. Not worried about snapping it? It looks pretty thin, but the grain seems to run pretty straight though that point. I just checked it with some twisting and pressure, and it felt very solid. It's about .9 inches thick by .4 inches at the thinnest point. The template I used made it clear that the grain should be oriented for maximum strength through the neck. Nevertheless, here's hoping that I won't have to crack a birch.
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Mar 8, 2016 18:45
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His Divine Shadow posted:A grooving plane, perhaps? Right, taking at shot at making one then... Shaped a nail down to a cutting edge today, seems to work reasonably well.  3 mm groove.
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Mar 8, 2016 19:33
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Groovy.
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Mar 8, 2016 19:37
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Squibbles posted:I'm keeping my eye out locally for a thickness planer in Craigslist. Any tips for what to look out for? There was one of the cheap deltas available this morning for $100 (Canadian) but I took too long considering and missed out. As much as I detest Mastercraft, the 12" thickness planer I have has done thousands of board feet in the past 10 years and is still working fine. Naturally you have to take pretty thin passes on hardwood wider than 4", but as long as you do that and have a sacrificial piece go in beforehand, it does a good job. Candian tire will usually have them on sale for $150-200 a few times a year. tater_salad posted:is the porter cable 4112 dovetail jig pretty much the standard for Dovetail jigs? I love mine. The very first time I used it I made a perfect 1/2 blind join. You have to make sure that you have a router that will accept the collar/guide though. Buy the jig first then take the collar to Home Depot to make sure it will work (assuming you don't already own a router that will accept it).
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Mar 9, 2016 01:49
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I own a router and may need to get a new baseplate so it will accept the guide since the hole is pretty small.
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Mar 9, 2016 02:46
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GEMorris posted:If you're buying new and not a lunchbox, I'd personally save up to get a 12" JP combo. Any recommendations on those? Thinking ahead to after my bandsaw purchase here, have pretty much everything else I want covered, and finding comprehensive recent reviews has been a bitch and a half.
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Mar 9, 2016 02:55
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Blistex posted:As much as I detest Mastercraft, the 12" thickness planer I have has done thousands of board feet in the past 10 years and is still working fine. Naturally you have to take pretty thin passes on hardwood wider than 4", but as long as you do that and have a sacrificial piece go in beforehand, it does a good job. Candian tire will usually have them on sale for $150-200 a few times a year. Interesting, thanks. I'll keep an eye out for that one.
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Mar 9, 2016 03:04
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stabbington posted:Any recommendations on those? Thinking ahead to after my bandsaw purchase here, have pretty much everything else I want covered, and finding comprehensive recent reviews has been a bitch and a half. Snap purchase the hammer JP combo right now while it's on sale. Still more than Asian made but much higher quality and the price differential is as close as it'll ever be. If there's no way to make the hammer fit your budget then probably the Jet. With the hammer I'd even consider the 10" option as it's a properly built machine, I wouldn't consider any Asian made combo under 12". I really wish the last 5 months hadn't included the removal of 3 trees, a new roof, and a new refrigerator. 
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Mar 9, 2016 04:16
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I have come to an agreement with my dad and we are cleaning out his garage of stuff, putting it in storage, and then turning the garage into a workshop. There should be more than enough room for all my tools and stuff, plus a car after they are packed away. I haven't done any woodwork (assembling ikea wardrobes doesnt count) in nearly 6 months now and im starting to get itchy fingers. Got a whole list of things that need to be made.
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Mar 10, 2016 06:28
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Turns out neighbors do not appreciate hewing occurring in an apartment building. Will keep this in mind for the future.
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Mar 10, 2016 20:30
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Turners, does this seem like a reasonable deal: http://annarbor.craigslist.org/tls/5460436302.html It does look to be in awfully good shape.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:25
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The bench and accessories add some value, but I have that same lathe (probably 20 years newer though) and I paid $125 for it. I think $600 is way off base, personally- that thing everything included is worth more like e: I remembered- mine came with a matching metal table also, though mine wasn't as old and groovy as that one e2: I did some googling for you, lots of people buy those Delta 46-111's for sub $200. Here's an auction from late 2014 on one with a cool pulley setup that allows more speeds, it sold for $212. http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/auction/view?auc=1216834 So yeah, $600 is a triple-price ripoff Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 23:27
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I had a feeling that may be the case as you can get a new lathe for $600. That would explain why it's been up for 3 weeks. Lot of people just can't figure out why their sentimentality doesn't translate into cash. I will continue my search!
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Mar 11, 2016 01:19
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swampface posted:I had a feeling that may be the case as you can get a new lathe for $600. That would explain why it's been up for 3 weeks. Lot of people just can't figure out why their sentimentality doesn't translate into cash. I will continue my search! Not even sentimentality. There's a company near me that posts used wood/metal working machinery online and on craigslist. Most of it is really heavy, multi thousand dollar stuff but they seem to have no sense of what things are worth sometimes. They had a band saw that was maybe 10 years old up for exactly the same price as you can buy it new from the original company (busy bee tools).
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Mar 11, 2016 02:07
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I'm looking to build some shelving/cabinetry and need a table saw. I'm somewhat new to woodworking. My only major claim to fame thus far is replacing/inserting pine trim in a room and interiors of closets of other rooms using a hand-me-down circular saw. My budget is around $500 and with my own research it sounds like the DEWALT DWE7490X is the best bet for me. Overkill? Underkill? Better recommendations within my budget? Thanks!
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Mar 11, 2016 16:16
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Cheesus posted:I'm looking to build some shelving/cabinetry and need a table saw. I'm somewhat new to woodworking. My only major claim to fame thus far is replacing/inserting pine trim in a room and interiors of closets of other rooms using a hand-me-down circular saw. Spend a little more and get a real table saw.
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Mar 11, 2016 16:31
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Stultus Maximus posted:Spend a little more and get a real table saw. Look for one of these or its ancestors on craigslist and spend a little less.
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Mar 11, 2016 16:41
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Thanks for the suggestions! How would the Delta 36-6020 compare in your opinion(s)?
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Mar 11, 2016 17:14
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Stultus Maximus posted:Spend a little more and get a real table saw. This saw has a MUCH better table than any of those folding portables. I'm in the market for this exact saw because it ticks all the boxes, moveable, good table and guide, in my price range. Based on my research, this seems like the only saw under 700 that you should consider for your home workshop. I have 5 lowes in my 25 mile radius and usually only 1 has 1 saw in stock at any given time. I asked the tools guy if it was discontinued or if it was just that popular, they said they can't keep them in stock. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 17:30
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Stultus Maximus posted:Spend a little more and get a real table saw. This exact saw is on the Seattle Craigslist for $550 that's 6 months old, with all of the original accessories as well as the dado insert and blades. Seems like a pretty solid deal. I wish I had the space and extra finances to make it happen. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/5481591218.html At first when you mentioned shelves, I thought maybe a good circular saw setup with a really nice blade and solid built guide may do the trick. Especially if you aren't planning to build a ton with it beyond this project. However, with cabinets it may be a worth investing.
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Mar 11, 2016 18:39
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Yeah if you're not literally carrying the saw around then spend more and buy the Delta. Portable saws have improved a lot over the years but they still prioritize lightweight over precision. The more you can spend on a saw the happier you will be in the long run.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:13
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As someone earlier said, get a fawned-over Unisaw from 30+ years ago. If the Craigslist seller mentions he changed the bearings, for example, you should be all set. I can think of zero reason to get a newer tablesaw, unless it's a SawStop. Even worse with bandsaws - mine was made in 1932 and I cannot find a more stable model with similar resaw capacity without going straight for $6k + models.
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Mar 11, 2016 21:52
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Hyperbole on bandsaws, many 3k range steel frame bandsaws are very legit unless you are comparing them to 32-36" cast iron bandsaws.
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Mar 11, 2016 23:53
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Cobalt60 posted:As someone earlier said, get a fawned-over Unisaw from 30+ years ago. If the Craigslist seller mentions he changed the bearings, for example, you should be all set. I can think of zero reason to get a newer tablesaw, unless it's a SawStop. *depends on your area, people in my area are selling 20 year old lovely craftsman contractor saws for 90% of walking into a store and buying a new one. Or they are selling $5k shop saws.
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Mar 12, 2016 00:18
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So this is a good deal for a table saw? http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/5380859661.html 
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Mar 12, 2016 03:31
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Shampoo posted:So this is a good deal for a table saw? Need you ask, showoff?
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Mar 12, 2016 03:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:Need you ask, showoff? Hey, i'm not going to get it (no room). If anyone is local to it, go grab it!
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Mar 12, 2016 04:22
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Shampoo posted:So this is a good deal for a table saw? edit: you suck <-- this somehow dropped off. when I was posting my wonderful craigslist options. In my area I can get a rigid for $50 off retail, A dewalt for $80 off retail, or an old rear end delta with bad guide and rusty table for $300. The best deal is probably a $500 5-10 year old grizzly contractor saw.. but again I can get a new one for 764 after shipping I have seen some good deals on CL but I've been looking for about 6 weeks now and they're all either 2k tater_salad fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Mar 12, 2016 |
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Mar 12, 2016 04:27
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tater_salad posted:In my area I can get a rigid for $50 off retail, A dewalt for $80 off retail, or an old rear end delta with bad guide and rusty table for $300. that Unisaw will kick all those others to the curb, it's worth 1500 if it's in good shape at all.It's worth driving a day to pick up.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:33
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Just put a 10 inch radius on my jack plane's iron. I am become death, the flattener of stock.
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Mar 12, 2016 12:28
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