|
Airborne Viking posted:Or just lean forward when you poop. Impossible due to giant lard gut resting on Christmas hams.
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 14:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 09:04 |
|
|
So I've installed one of these silly things. http://www.lowes.com/pd_40252-29279-873-3804___?Ntt=garner+0040252&UserSearch=garner+0040252&productId=4757819 As you can see, it has a pull tab on a spicket , which is how you send water to the shower head. The problem I'm having, is that water wants to come out of the shower head by default, once the pressure is high enough. Not much, just a small stream, but annoying nevertheless. I've bought another, swapped cartridge, and still it's leaking, albeit less. The installation is very simple and straight forward, no way to install mixing cartridge at anything other than 90 degrees. What's going on here?
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 15:34
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:So I've installed one of these silly things. Is it pex or copper from the valve to the tub output? I have heard pex can cause a resistance and end up having water make it up to the shower head.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 21:10
|
|
|
It is PEX. Is it because it has led inner diameter than copper? Still, sounds like something a faucet manufacturer has to consider
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 23:11
|
|
|
The problem is the inner diameter of the fittings, not the tubing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
Yes I've heard it is because the pex fittings have a smaller diameter so more resistance and it forces the water up and out of the shower head. Copper is the way to go. You could always install a ball valve before your shower head, then the next owners can post in the crappy construction thread!
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2016 15:17
|
|
|
Just had a discussion with a bunch of other tenants in my apartment block and the slightly different configurations of gas-heaters for each apartment. One issue was that I have a electromagnetic water softener and the others not. I know of these devices and what they supposedly do, but never questioned the function. I just looked it up and it seems they're humbug. Is that right? I can unplug this thing then?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 11:46
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Just had a discussion with a bunch of other tenants in my apartment block and the slightly different configurations of gas-heaters for each apartment. One issue was that I have a electromagnetic water softener and the others not. I know of these devices and what they supposedly do, but never questioned the function. I just looked it up and it seems they're humbug. Is that right? I can unplug this thing then? Yes, they are snake oil. Hardness testing strips are cheap if you want to prove it for yourself.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 16:43
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yes, they are snake oil. I was always under that impression (certainly much of the manufacturers' claims are nonsense), but apparently they actually do more than nothing. Not by a whole lot, but more than I would have expected.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 17:23
|
|
|
I'm not sure I should trust that report. The magnetic treatment device claims to create a magnetic field, yet the coils aren't in a closed loop. Unless that device operates on electromagnetic principles from an alternate dimension, there's no current flow there whatsoever, therefore no magnetic field.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 23:39
|
|
|
It operates on the same electromagnetic principles that are the foundation of modern communications. They're antennas
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2016 00:13
|
|
|
Do whole house filters make sense? The wife likes to filter the drinking water and the shower head, I like to filter the coffee maker. I'd like to keep the small area under the kitchen sink free of 3 big filters, so its logical to install it in the basement... which brings up the point of, why not just get whole house filtration? What I don't like is the idea of filtering the water we use for everything else (water lawn, car wash, toilet flush). Something tells me its cheaper to filter all that water than it is to have a plumber separate the lines that go to the kitchen + shower and put a filter on just those lines. What do you say? Is it stupid to filter before 15-20 year old copper pipes and then run the clean water through those old pipes to the tap?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 19:11
|
|
|
Vulcan posted:Do whole house filters make sense? I think the answer to this depends on what kind of water you have coming in and to what level you are trying to filter. I've got well water and have taken a hybrid approach. I've got a "whole house" fairly coarse sediment filter along with an under-cabinet filter for the kitchen sink. If I didn't have the sediment filter first I bet I'd be changing the sink filter 4x as much.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2016 20:49
|
|
|
Crossposting from the Fucks It Fast Quirk Questions thread: Fired up my dishwasher today and it spilled water all over the floor and the pan in the bottom is full up (and overflowing, hence the spillage.) The drain hose to the sink disposal appears to be clear, the disposal/sink itself is clear and draining well. It just looks like no water at all is being evacuated from the dishwasher. I pulled the unit out and everything looks copacetic, no kinks or anything. So what are we thinking here? Shot drain solenoiderizer? Dead grinder pumpamajigger? What are the odds of being able to fix this myself on this holy day of rest? If I'm probably looking at having to wait a week for a service guy to bring a few more inches of rear end crack out to my house, I might just replace the whole drat thing, since I could just pick one up immediately and I'm the impatient type. Sundays, man.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 16:00
|
|
|
Float switch stuck/shot? It should have a float to know when it's full.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 16:13
|
|
|
Vulcan posted:Do whole house filters make sense? It's cheaper to install, yeah. But you're filtering a higher volume of water, so your filter replacement is more frequent. At some point, you'll be spending more on the whole house filtration. I've installed a dual filter system in my dad's kitchen, he loves it. Not sure what brand it was, but he paid something like $200, it came with dual filters and a little faucet. Everything mounted in sink base cabinet and took very little space. They just use it for cooking, and the filters last a very long time. Drilling a new hole in granite top was the most complicated part of that install
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 16:20
|
|
|
Guy Axlerod posted:Float switch stuck/shot? It should have a float to know when it's full. Just checked, all the float switch parts look clean and dandy, I have no reason to suspect that mechanism. Pulled the shroud, and then the cap that is the actual weight/float, and operated the switch itself, seems to be mechanically sound.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2016 16:24
|
|
|
I've got a leaky frost proof sillcock hose bibb. Im guessing it's due to an aging washer inside the assembly. I've got the handle off and the first packing nut off, but I'm trying to get the second packing nut off to pull out the valve stem and it's not budging. There's no visible oxidation on the nut. There's some play between the spigot and the house so I'm concerned that I'll damage the copper pipe in the wall if I wrench on the nut too hard. What should I be trying here? Heat? Liquid Wrench? WD-40? I don't do a whole lot of plumbing so recommendations here are welcome.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2016 01:10
|
|
|
stupid puma posted:I've got a leaky frost proof sillcock hose bibb. Im guessing it's due to an aging washer inside the assembly. I've got the handle off and the first packing nut off, but I'm trying to get the second packing nut off to pull out the valve stem and it's not budging. There's no visible oxidation on the nut. There's some play between the spigot and the house so I'm concerned that I'll damage the copper pipe in the wall if I wrench on the nut too hard. What should I be trying here? Heat? Liquid Wrench? WD-40? I don't do a whole lot of plumbing so recommendations here are welcome. Let some penetrating oil soak into the threads for a while and then use a backing wrench (second wrench in opposite direction) when you try to undo it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2016 17:06
|
|
|
Vulcan posted:Do whole house filters make sense? For most people, they just really hate the chlorine smell and taste. But there is also a surprising amount of sediment that gets in the water too. 3m makes some fairly cheap ones, at least the replacement filters. I've seen people use the AP801-C as a sediment prefilter and then use the AP903 as the main filter.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2016 21:31
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:Yes I've heard it is because the pex fittings have a smaller diameter so more resistance and it forces the water up and out of the shower head. Copper is the way to go. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shower-Shut-Off-Valve-9D00089171/100167870
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 03:31
|
|
|
Vulcan posted:Do whole house filters make sense? You can do a simple holding tank that has activated carbon in it. To remove all of the chlorine in the water. Most water treatment companies have something they can build for the entire house. You can also do the standard cartridge with housings but you have have to change them often. And depending on the cost it may be more cost effective to have a stand alone carbon filter that has media that can be replaced.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 14:15
|
|
|
My kitchen sink hot water handle is messed up; normally you turn it counter-clockwise for the water, clockwise to turn off (not sure if that's standard) but starting last night, I can turn it past closed and it opens back up again. It also seems like opening it up all the way doesn't result in a full flow but that might be my imagination. I've tried re-setting the knob but it doesn't seem like it did anything which means I'm an idiot and don't know what I'm doing here; any suggestions? This is a rental apartment but I'd prefer not to give my landlord reasons to up the rent when my lease is up. edit: never mind, I took a look at the inside of the handle and found duct tape where it's supposed to connect to the stem, I guess this handle fell apart for the previous tenant; guess I'm heading to Home Depot tomorrow! GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Mar 16, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2016 22:14
|
|
|
Hey plumbing thread, I am not good at plumbing, but I try for some reason. I'm being stumped by my shower faucet handles. A "project" was undertaken to "upgrade" our old "ugly" faucet handles which has resulted in us using the other bathroom for quite some time as aftermarket handles can't be installed and the originals were tossed. The problem seems to be with that brass tube which is around the cartridge stem.  All the "universal" faucet handles have adapters that don't fit into the brass tube. If I try to remove the brass tube, it turns the water on. Any sort of stem extension leaves the handles sticking way out away from the wall. What am I missing here? Should I just tear everything out and replace the cartridges?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2016 00:04
|
|
|
rhombus posted:Hey plumbing thread, I am not good at plumbing, but I try for some reason. I'm being stumped by my shower faucet handles. A "project" was undertaken to "upgrade" our old "ugly" faucet handles which has resulted in us using the other bathroom for quite some time as aftermarket handles can't be installed and the originals were tossed. First start with what brand is the shower valve? You most likely could get some handles online for it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2016 01:02
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:First start with what brand is the shower valve? You most likely could get some handles online for it. Moen. After all this headache I was hoping to get the drat handles the wife wants on there, but maybe I should just look at finding replacements for the old plastic crystal knobs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2016 01:19
|
|
|
rhombus posted:Moen. After all this headache I was hoping to get the drat handles the wife wants on there, but maybe I should just look at finding replacements for the old plastic crystal knobs. The bad news for handles is that you're pretty much stuck to those that fit your manufacturer's stems, unless you insist on using universal handles whose collars end up destroying the stem. Also, that brass tube is called the "bonnet". It's probably what your stems screw into. Tell you what. Have you looked into new escutcheons too? That is the decorative cap that goes beneath the handle and attaches to the bonnet. It covers the gap on the wall. That might help the wife accepting slightly uglier handles that will work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2016 10:35
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:The bad news for handles is that you're pretty much stuck to those that fit your manufacturer's stems, unless you insist on using universal handles whose collars end up destroying the stem. Also, that brass tube is called the "bonnet". It's probably what your stems screw into. The problem is that the universal handles won't fit into the bonnet to grab onto the stem. I have a test handle on the way. Will look into new escutcheons if it works. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 01:31
|
|
|
rhombus posted:Moen. After all this headache I was hoping to get the drat handles the wife wants on there, but maybe I should just look at finding replacements for the old plastic crystal knobs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2016 18:07
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:So I've installed one of these silly things. Just want to update anyone who may be interested in a solution that does not involve ripping out tile. Lowering the water pressure going to the shower seem to have done the trick. Didn't use the pressure gauge, but the water pressure in the house is fairly high, above 50psi or so they said. I've spliced in couple of regulators and adjusted them evenly. With a low flow shower head, it's working wonders.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2016 13:00
|
|
|
Last night my hot water heater's mixing valve, which until then was content to leak a slow drip (less than a cup's worth a day, had a small tupperware container catching it) decided to go HAM on me and spew out a few gallons of water all over my basement floor. Thankfully nothing was damaged other than a few scrap pieces of drywall and an old rug. Managed to get the water out with a wet/dry vac and a couple fans. I took apart the mixing valve and could see the problem:  That's the gasket+filter on the hot inlet. Here's the whole thing, with the cold-side gasket for comparison:  The model of the valve:  And close-ups of the hot and cold inlets:   A few questions: 1) Can I just get the gasket+filter thing? I took it to a small local hardware store but they didn't have it. Haven't tried a Lowe's or HD yet, but I might go over there today on my lunch break. We also have an F.W. Webb near me, so maybe it'd be best just to go there? 2) Assuming I can just get that gasket, does the rest of the valve look ok? I see it has some corrosion, but I imagine I can just scrape that off, right? 3) There was no teflon tape on the threads when I removed it...should there be? In order of preference I'd prefer just to replace the gasket (might as well do both while I'm at it,) then if I can't, replace it with the exact same valve, since everything is all nicely set up to have this exact model fit in there. If I have to replace it with a different valve (or just ditch it altogether, they aren't required by code here) I might have to get a plumber, since I have no experience with sweating copper pipes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 14:01
|
|
|
The valve looks OK as long as it was working and you can get the corrosion off without damaging the face. If the big box stores don't have them, the plumbing supply place should. Since it's a compression fitting and the seal is made by the gasket and not the pipe thread you don't need to dope or tape the threads.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 21:33
|
|
|
Cool, thanks. The plumbing store didn't have it, but a distribution center for Watts is relatively nearby so the store is calling them to see if they have the gaskets or repair kits. If not, they have the whole valve for line $100...I'd really prefer just the gaskets.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 22:44
|
|
|
Well, Watts does make repair kits for them, but I'm having a hell of a time finding any info about them online. Repair kits for mixing valves typically include replacements for most of the internal pieces, which can usually price the kit at around half the price of a complete new valve. Honestly, it looks like you just got a bad valve from the factory, with that one mesh washer punched off center.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 01:38
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:Last night my hot water heater's mixing valve, which until then was content to leak a slow drip (less than a cup's worth a day, had a small tupperware container catching it) decided to go HAM on me and spew out a few gallons of water all over my basement floor. This sounds more like a T/P valve. Was the water heater covered in water at the top or was it mainly at the floor? Usually when something leaks its not 8oz for a long time. Then starts spewing out a gallon over night.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 01:45
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This sounds more like a T/P valve. Was the water heater covered in water at the top or was it mainly at the floor? Usually when something leaks its not 8oz for a long time. Then starts spewing out a gallon over night. I don't know what to tell you, other than that's exactly what happened.  All the water on the floor was clearly coming from the mixing valve. The top of the water heater had a small pool of water that was dripping down the side. The T/P valve was done-dry. It had around 24 hours it could have been leaking at the higher rate. I was in the basement Sunday night and it was fine, and then by Monday night it was water everywhere, so it's not like it was spraying super fast, just a lot more than the previous couple weeks. Even if it was only leaking at the higher amount for half of that time, that's still maybe 4 gallons over 12 hours? 1/3 of a gallon an hour isn't a whole lot in the grand scheme of things. The mesh screens (figured I might as well get two,) are on the way. F.W.Webb got in touch with Watts and they're shipping them right to me, but I likely won't have them until Friday, maybe Saturday. I'll probably go get a plain old 1" rubber washer today and put it in to have hot water back. Using it for 2-3 days without a filter can't be that bad, right?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2016 15:52
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:I don't know what to tell you, other than that's exactly what happened. Well weirder things have happened in plumbing so I say you are on the right track.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 00:58
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:I'll probably go get a plain old 1" rubber washer today and put it in to have hot water back. Using it for 2-3 days without a filter can't be that bad, right? The screen is just there to catch large pieces of sediment or debris so that they can't jam the mixing mechanism. You could easily go the entire life of the valve without ever actually needing it, so going without for 2 or 3 days is a pretty small risk as long as you aren't doing something to your plumbing that could cause debris at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
I will plant some trees this spring and they are going to need water. The nearest surface water is estimated 300m away. I have a 55 gallon up a tree and a 12v pump + solar panel on order from E-bay. I need a big long tube to connect the pair and I would like to know what you consider best. 1000' of pex tube is $300. Pros: Food grade. This tube is to be used for irrigating sugar maples. Cons: Reported to have poor UV-resistance. Needs to be buired. How would you recommend I best move water 18m up and 300m laterally?
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2016 03:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 09:04 |
|
|
Your tree doesn't give a poo poo about food-grade. Remember, you're gonna be putting the water in the dirt. e: How huge is your panel that it's going to actually be able to power a pump that'll have that much lift? Or is the pump going to run off a battery that'll be trickle-charged by the panel? And Im curious about the pump itself, 18m is pretty tall. Care to share links to what you ordered? DreadLlama posted:How would you recommend I best move water 18m up and 300m laterally? Carrier pigeon. Grab a cheap trailer and put a water barrel in it. Use a modest pump to fill up the barrel, drive the trailer up to the tree area, hook up a garden hose and reverse the same small pump to fill some tree watering donuts, repeat every few days until the trees are established. Leave the pump/barrel in the area if you need to provide a semi-continuous supply to the donuts, refilling the barrel as needed. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Mar 28, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2016 03:16
|
|