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So I just bought the Hyakuri the other day, and I used it for an excuse to try out a gunk wash for the first time, and I am actually pretty happy with the way it turned out. 
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Mar 10, 2016 20:53
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oh hey the zogok i ordered shipped!  guess i have to find something else to keep me busy in the meantime...
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Mar 10, 2016 21:05
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The_Rob posted:So I just bought the Hyakuri the other day, and I used it for an excuse to try out a gunk wash for the first time, and I am actually pretty happy with the way it turned out. That looks pretty nice! I have one too, although all I've done with it is marker lining. It's a pretty cool kit, only bad thing I could say about it is that the stand's neck wobbles a little, but thats a total non-issue. I like that most/a lot of the new robots wear high heels (so they can kick down 7000 meter high genderoid barriers ).
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Mar 10, 2016 21:30
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Neurolimal posted:That looks pretty nice! I have one too, although all I've done with it is marker lining. It's a pretty cool kit, only bad thing I could say about it is that the stand's neck wobbles a little, but thats a total non-issue. the seam lines are pretty bad on it too, and I didn't realize it until after I did the wash. For a 10 dollar kit though you really can't go wrong.
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Mar 10, 2016 21:35
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Kuvo posted:oh hey the zogok i ordered shipped! Where the hell is that seller from and why are they literally walking it to your door?
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Mar 10, 2016 21:40
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Overfortnight parts from Japan? Was thinking about getting either the RG Full Burnern or the HG Kshatriya in the mean time. Anyone have any comments on those kits? Kinda worried about the Burnern as the dalong pics make it look like the corefighter is removable and I don't want another flimsy kit like RG Zeta was 
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Mar 10, 2016 21:49
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TaurusOxford posted:Where the hell is that seller from and why are they literally walking it to your door? That's what you get for just all all the "free shipping" gunpla sellers. SAL blows.
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Mar 10, 2016 21:55
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Kuvo posted:Overfortnight parts from Japan? Don't get RG GPO1 in either variation if you want to avoid another Zeta situation. As for Kshatriya, good pick. You can't really go wrong with any HG Unicorn model.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:01
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Kuvo posted:Overfortnight parts from Japan? The only real spot of flimsiness on the GP01 is that the upper part just kind sits on top of the core fighter, it doesn't click in very well at all.
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Mar 11, 2016 01:01
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Just finished the arm on my rust bucket Hy-Gogg. I've never done weathering/battle damage before so I thought it might be fun to get a bit experimental. It's a real drat shame there isn't a master grade Hy-Gogg because it's such a neat design.   edit: The_Rob posted:So I just bought the Hyakuri the other day, and I used it for an excuse to try out a gunk wash for the first time, and I am actually pretty happy with the way it turned out. 
Blackish Sheep fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 01:09
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I dropped my yellow LED, the one I most wanted, onto carpeted floor from a minimal height and it broke immediately. 
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Mar 11, 2016 01:33
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Kuvo posted:Anyone have any comments on those kits? Kinda worried about the Burnern as the dalong pics make it look like the corefighter is removable and I don't want another flimsy kit like RG Zeta was Just glue the torso on and it'll be fine. It's not like anyone ever display the Core Fighter anyways. As for HGUC Kshatriya, it's fine but get ready for SLEEVES MARKING HELL.
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Mar 11, 2016 03:56
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BlitzBlast posted:Just glue the torso on and it'll be fine. It's not like anyone ever display the Core Fighter anyways. Reverse washes are your friend! 1) Paint the part in the color of the raised details - it'll be what you see at the end. 2) Topcoat with Future or lacquer gloss clear coat, allow to dry overnight 3) Airbrush the color of the recessed details BUT YOU MUST MUST MUST USE AN ENAMEL PAINT 4) Wait 5 minutes 5) Take some Ronsonol or other turpenoid lighter fluid and dip a Q-tip in it just to moisten it 6) Gently rub off the raised detail parts 7) Marvel in the glory It's really not difficult, it just requires some fluids.
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Mar 11, 2016 14:54
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IBO makes me really sad because there are so many amazing kits that will never be master grades. We'll probably get a couple of the Gundam Frame ones but all the side units the Tewaz girls use are pretty boss but I fear will never escape 1/144.
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Mar 11, 2016 17:40
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MJP posted:It's really not difficult, it just requires some fluids. New thread title please.
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Mar 11, 2016 18:24
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Blackchamber posted:New thread title please. I'm glad I wasn't alone in thinking about this joke.
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Mar 11, 2016 18:38
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Hey, neat, the 1/144 Kimaris Trooper didn't have to compromise its inner frame to make the leg gimmick work.
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Mar 11, 2016 18:45
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I would spend unreasonable amounts of money on an MG Hyakuri  This is rad A Big... Dog posted:Heyyyyyyyyyyy babes. This is also rad, looks so much better on mobile now Again, rad Are you gonna get some Cold District GMs for it to beat up?
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Mar 11, 2016 18:53
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MJP posted:Reverse washes are your friend! Yeah, once you get the materials it really is the easiest way to color raised/embedded details. This site has a detailed explanation alongside pics of the process and end-result. The site has a bunch of other tutorials as well, including one for wear/rust that would be very handy for the above Hygogg.
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Mar 11, 2016 20:10
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Darth Walrus posted:Hey, neat, the 1/144 Kimaris Trooper didn't have to compromise its inner frame to make the leg gimmick work. Kind of bummed that it's looking like the trooper splits it's legs to go into a hover mode and not turn into a centaur.
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Mar 12, 2016 01:31
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Local comic shop is double dipping on distributors so now they have a corner wall covered in kits. New IBO stuff is cheaper than Amazon, RGs a little more, but a few kits like the Strike Rogue +Ootori that aren't on Amazon at all for ~45. Basketball's ending soon and I'm gonna have a lot more free time...
zelah fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Mar 12, 2016 |
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Mar 12, 2016 03:09
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As a completely random aside, Rogue Strike has to be the funniest way of writing Strike Rouge's name I've ever seen.  Now I kind of want to see a Strike with a X wing as a backpack or something.
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Mar 12, 2016 03:11
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Whoops, I looked up the + Ootori part but forgot to check the order of the first part.
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Mar 12, 2016 03:16
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MJP posted:Reverse washes are your friend! I recommend Zippo fluid over Ronsonol because the fumes are less severe, but they both work and you should probably be wearing a respirator anyway.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:04
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Just have a candle nearby to let nature naturally vaporize the fumes  (please don't do this) I thought Zippo wasn't turpenoid though?
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Mar 12, 2016 04:20
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Well you guys made me finally take the dive on the Kshatriya.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:51
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MJP posted:Just have a candle nearby to let nature naturally vaporize the fumes Its what is used in this guide: Neurolimal posted:Yeah, once you get the materials it really is the easiest way to color raised/embedded details. This site has a detailed explanation alongside pics of the process and end-result. I ended up letting my enamel cure for too long (I had followed the linked guide but had poo poo to do so I didn't get back to it imediately after the 12-24 hours they recommend) and it was a huge pain in the rear end to remove so I'd definitely get the q-tips and lighter fluid out sooner rather than later. Also apparently Zippo bought Ronson?
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Mar 12, 2016 05:21
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Ethiser posted:Kind of bummed that it's looking like the trooper splits it's legs to go into a hover mode and not turn into a centaur. There's no shame in being a split-leg Centaur 
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Mar 12, 2016 05:54
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So I recently scored a better job and in celebration I want to get a kit I've joked about for awhile. What's the best place for harder to find kits at reasonable prices? I may or may not be ordering a HG Dendrobium.
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Mar 12, 2016 18:47
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TheManSeries posted:So I recently scored a better job and in celebration I want to get a kit I've joked about for awhile. What's the best place for harder to find kits at reasonable prices? I may or may not be ordering a HG Dendrobium. i dunno about te price, but this site is pretty good for harder-to-find kits in general https://www.nippon-yasan.com/figures/9675-hguc-rx-78-gundam-gp03-dendrobium-1-144.html
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Mar 12, 2016 18:49
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Droyer posted:i dunno about te price, but this site is pretty good for harder-to-find kits in general https://www.nippon-yasan.com/figures/9675-hguc-rx-78-gundam-gp03-dendrobium-1-144.html Much appreciated. Amazon has it for 30 more with prime shipping, so that may be my route unless I can get it on the cheap.
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Mar 12, 2016 18:54
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Coming up on the last bit of touchups and panel lining on the Graze, and I'm wondering: What are some other accessories that'd be compatible with the balljoints on its back? Not a fan of the boosters it comes with.
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Mar 13, 2016 00:48
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It's done. So many setbacks. I ended up ordering another Papillon but not needing it. So many times I stripped and re-did parts, but it's done. It's finally done. Qubeley Papillon La Fleur Métallique. Candy-coating is a great thing and everyone should try it on a kit at least once.  It took something like two and half, maybe three months of construction and painting, not counting the month or so I spent looking for the paint and finally stumbling across the right one. I had to strip the wing binders at least once or twice. The upper torso broke. The face snapped off the head. I had to remix the teal candy paint. But it's done. My favorite mobile suit rendered in a style I always thought would look cool - candy coated. I could have settled for any custom mixed acrylic or enamel metallic teal, but I wanted zero metal flakes. Just sheer reflective glory. I finally got there.  The piping is Vallejo Metal Color steel. The pink parts (Mazinger-ish chest V, arms, under the tail stinger, detail parts on the calves) are Mr. Clear Color GX Pink over Alclad chrome, the same method of candy coating as the rest of the kit. Just with a different paint. The purple parts are Alclad Candy Violet over Alclad Chrome. The middle torso is Alclad steel. All orange parts are Model Masters Orange Pearl enamel. Everything was topcoated with Pledge with Future Shine.  There are flecks to the paint. Nobody's perfect. You only notice them if you're in a lightbox with lights directly lit onto it. I'm proud of my work, imperfections and all - the sum of the uncorrectable flaws is less than the sum of what went right.  The raised orange detail parts such as the tips of the feet were done as follows: 1) Primer 2) Model Masters Orange Pearl, left to cure overnight 3) Future, left to cure overnight 4) The raised detail stickers from the kit got stuck and unstuck to my jeans once or twice and applied carefully with Mr. Masking Sol Neo painted to cover any gaps 5) The rest of the part was painted (primer, Alclad gloss black, Alclad chrome, candy teal) and left to dry for an hour 6) Using an Xacto knife, the stickers were removed It sounds harder than it is. Just have some background noise, and don't be afraid to take the sticker off and try again. The gloss topcoat + de-tacking the sticker by applying it to fabric lowers the tack to the point of easily removing if you take your time.  I'll probably re-do the tail in the same fashion. These gaps were hand-painted in with 1mm microbrushes.   Kamina shades make any kit cooler.  This is what happens when you have a Galaxy S5 camera NOT working with a lightbox, but the Aila shrine now has an improved neighbor. For the record, the candy coating method and material is demonstrated and described in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziQWKUss1RE
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Mar 13, 2016 17:39
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Just went to a traditional hobby shop kinda close by to see if they had Gunpla. They do, but it's a of assortment and no models in really into but they do have the clear Juaggu for $27 too bad it's too ugly for me to be into unironically and my wife would be mad I bought it.
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Mar 13, 2016 19:38
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mango sentinel posted:Just went to a traditional hobby shop kinda close by to see if they had Gunpla. They do, but it's a of assortment and no models in really into but they do have the clear Juaggu for $27 too bad it's too ugly for me to be into unironically and my wife would be mad I bought it. wow rude
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Mar 13, 2016 23:21
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Anyone know what the decal situation for the 1/100 Barbatos 6th form will be? I want to pick it up for the Mace to complete my Form 4, but also hoping that it'll have decals for the black bits on the thigh armor which are strangely missing from the form 4's decale set
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Mar 14, 2016 00:04
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Welp, finally got my last three G-Reco kits done.    In detail:  The Dahack needs that stand for a reason - its feet have very little articulation. Also, the beam plunder shields aren't that firmly attached to the hands, and the design of the shoulder armour allows relatively little horizontal articulation - basically, you can't swing the arms out very far sideways. Those are my only real complaints, though - it's a solidly-engineered and surprisingly simple suit, and the stickers are few and relatively easy to apply.  The Kabakali is an almost perfect kit, spectacularly simple and cleverly-engineered with absolutely minimal stickers. If you have any love for the design, you should definitely get it. I have only two gripes. First, I wish the stands for the beam rings had been transparent. Second, I wish they'd found a way to model the hand-mounted beam swords. I mean, they managed something similar for the Garazzo, a kit six years older, and the Dahack had some really clever stuff going on with its hands. It's not impossible.  The G-Self Perfect Pack, meanwhile... well, I'm glad it was the last suit I built, and that I'd got into a rhythm with the first two, because it is the single biggest, toughest, and most complex challenge of the entire G-Reco HG line. The G-Self has a deserved reputation as sticker hell, and the Perfect Pack takes it to the ninth circle, bringing back all the old favourites and adding new, fiendishly difficult ones (the shoulders and shield... dear lord). Add in the complex (though thankfully relatively sticker-light) backpack design, with its zillions of moving parts, and you have an absolute beast of a kit. On the other hand, I do not regret purchasing and assembling it in the slightest, because jesus christ look at that thing. The other Venus Globe kits (especially the Gaeon) may come close, but there really is no better centrepiece for your G-Reco collection. Now onto my IBO collection. I am seriously hyped for these, and not just because they look like they'll be a nice, easy break after the Perfect Pack.
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Mar 14, 2016 00:34
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Darth Walrus posted:
I really recommend the Hyakuri to start out with, if only because it looks really nice and isn't a hard build (only real drawback is that the backpack jet has a few stickers, but you just finished the g-self so...), and if you haven't bought the kits yet I'd recommend skipping the basic Graze kit (mainly because it looks way nicer in bright colors, and you can meet your Zaku Color Criteria with the frog 'bots).
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Mar 14, 2016 00:52
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Neurolimal posted:I really recommend the Hyakuri to start out with, if only because it looks really nice and isn't a hard build (only real drawback is that the backpack jet has a few stickers, but you just finished the g-self so...), and if you haven't bought the kits yet I'd recommend skipping the basic Graze kit (mainly because it looks way nicer in bright colors, and you can meet your Zaku Color Criteria with the frog 'bots). I've already bought my first set. Got 'em sitting right beside me. The Graze, Schwalbe Graze, Barbatos, and MS Option Set 1, plus the web-exclusive kits of the Ares Graze and Gaelio's Schwalbe Graze. I was planning on making a start with those two regular Grazes first (as Crank's duel loadout and Coral's commander type respectively) - they really do look like blissfully simple kits after all that G-Reco stuff with ultra-varied colour palettes and effect parts all over the place.
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Mar 14, 2016 00:59
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Neurolimal posted:I really recommend the Hyakuri to start out with, if only because it looks really nice and isn't a hard build (only real drawback is that the backpack jet has a few stickers, but you just finished the g-self so...), and if you haven't bought the kits yet I'd recommend skipping the basic Graze kit (mainly because it looks way nicer in bright colors, and you can meet your Zaku Color Criteria with the frog 'bots). I didn't even put the stickers on mine and it came out looking alright.
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Mar 14, 2016 03:01
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