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Yeah, LaF found the 97+ bolt-on bellhousing info as well. Fortunately the 4.8L LR4 introduction was in 99, which pins the 2wd transmission donor as a 99 or newer and therefore most of the concerns about swappability go away. The donor's a V8, so it should have the larger number of frictions and steels in the clutch packs. Driveshaft will probably have to be a custom job anyways at this point... I'll cut the donor's shaft a foot or two from the yoke so it can be used to retube/sleeve the other shaft if needed and if they match up right lengthwise. Allegedly per forum info he found, the 2wd and 4wd units have the same harness plug and everything, the 2wd ones just leave the pin positions for the high/low range solenoid and 4x4 solenoid for the transfer case unused, so the ECU may be sad about not having any tcase shift solenoids but all it'll do in response is lock them out (which doesn't affect anything if they aren't there.) So I'll see what I can do. Gotta get a truck running first, though.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:57
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Also, if your seriously planning on running more power through it than stock, buy a beast sunshell and a HD 3-4 clutch pack and change it out before you reinstall it. I have broken three 700R4/4L60E transmissions, these are the two biggest failure points if your beating on it.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:57
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Your going to have to flash the ECU anyways for all this to work well. It's easy to fix problems like that. If I was still in RVA I would gladly lend my copy of HP tuners to the cause.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:59
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kastein posted:Interesting - thanks a ton. I was just told by LaF (he's on IRC and doing research on this) that the LR4 was only introduced in 99, and this yard rarely gets GM donors newer than 04-05 or so since they go to the premium fullservice yard across the street, so basically it sounds like it'll probably work. I thought GM vehicles of this era used an ECU/TCU pair, not a PCM running both, though? Should be PCM. (well, its a giant brick with 4 plugs that operate both..) afaik the tahoes didn't get a 4l80 unless it was an optioned 3/4 ton or better. You'll know the difference between the 60 and 80 just glancing at it. 80s are a big-rear end-tranny. 93-95 4l60s had a non-pwm converter. 96 on do. it'll say PWM on the oil pump housing.
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Mar 8, 2016 00:05
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3/4 ton ones were 8 lug, as well, right? IIRC this one was the usual 6x5.5.
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Mar 8, 2016 00:11
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Yes, 8 lugs and came with a 6.0 or 8.1. Suburbans only, I have never seen a 3/4 ton Tahoe.
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Mar 8, 2016 00:15
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IIRC 3/4 ton Tahoes were a thing, but were limited to commercial vehicle sales. Read: cop trucks
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Mar 8, 2016 01:05
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Yeah, the PCM is a single big slab that plugs into the two fucknormous connectors on the harness. Here's a Painless Performance harness for the thing for reference; 
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Mar 8, 2016 01:17
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cursedshitbox posted:Should be PCM. (well, its a giant brick with 4 plugs that operate both..) afaik the tahoes didn't get a 4l80 unless it was an optioned 3/4 ton or better. You'll know the difference between the 60 and 80 just glancing at it. 80s are a big-rear end-tranny. The intermediate option was the 4L65E, which came behind the 1/2 ton trucks with the 6.0L LQ4 / LQ9 in them. I"m not sure of all of the physical differences, but they were rated to hold a little more power than the 4L60 IIRC. I did find a thing while idly browsing CL for cheap stuff I find interesting: http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/5445584597.html  Parked up allegedly because the rear went bad. Based on the specs they give in the ad (8 foot bed, extended cab, 4x4) this would have the 5.3 in it, although it says someone swiped the ignition coils. It doesn't even look (terribly) beat up or rusty, somehow. If the donors in the yards don't pan out, maybe this is worth an email or call? Ad's been up for 24 days though, so who knows if it's even there anymore.
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Mar 8, 2016 01:46
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I've also got access to some pretty detailed breakdown pics through a catalog at work, so if you need 'em, lemme know. Also, 05 started the 4l60 to 4l65 changes by going from a 13 pin connector to a 15 pin connector from what she was saying, however the output shaft splines should be the same as the pre electronic 4l60s if the van driveshaft fits lengthwise.
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Mar 8, 2016 02:07
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The driveshaft's going to be a custom length job regardless, this is not a concern for me. It'll be a case of taking the original driveshaft and the cut-off end that ken brings me to a driveshaft shop and giving them a measurement. Hopefully the overall length is shorter than the original van shaft, but it's not really important. I heard about the 4L65 stuff but figured it was all in trucks too new for me to have access to - good to know, thanks elmnt80 
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Mar 8, 2016 03:15
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Anything I can do to help. It gave me something to entertain myself and it gave my boss an excuse to whip out her transmission reference stuff. She also mentioned that you may want to change the torque converter to something with a different stall speed the second I mentioned a loping cam. Though it would of course depend on how extreme you go with it.
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Mar 8, 2016 04:27
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Elmnt80 posted:Anything I can do to help. It gave me something to entertain myself and it gave my boss an excuse to whip out her transmission reference stuff. She also mentioned that you may want to change the torque converter to something with a different stall speed the second I mentioned a loping cam. Though it would of course depend on how extreme you go with it. This is how extreme: Thumpr 275 specs It does recommend a 2000+rpm stall converter, but says the stock converter is OK. I'm happy to be talked into an upgraded converter but will need to be convinced that it's worth whatever money it costs 
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Mar 9, 2016 01:03
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literally a fish posted:This is how extreme: Thumpr 275 specs With such a "low" stall RPM I'm certain the eBay market has a poo poo-ton of them available from some racers who got the itch and decided to retire their car from DD duty and make it a strictly race rig. Have you decided on the 4L60e? $149 right here: http://m.ebay.com/itm/2200-2500-high-stall-GM-Chevy-GMC-Torque-Converter-4L60E-700R4-Lockup-1985-97-/331796948369?nav=SEARCH
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Mar 9, 2016 03:10
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Ripoff posted:With such a "low" stall RPM I'm certain the eBay market has a poo poo-ton of them available from some racers who got the itch and decided to retire their car from DD duty and make it a strictly race rig. Nice. will need some transmission book fuckery to make sure i get the exact right kind once we've got a donor drivetrain, but this is probably worth doing. Thanks
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Mar 9, 2016 04:32
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LADIES AND GOONS HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO BE ABLE TO CONSIDER YOURSELF RESPONSIBLE FOR AT LEAST SOME PART OF THIS INSANITY? TO LEAVE YOUR MARK ON THE WORLD AND MAKE IT JUST A TINY BIT STRANGER FOR THE LOW LOW PRICE OF LIKE $10.70 IN SOME CASES? Well congratufuckinlations! I've been assembling an Amazon list of things we'll probably need and I figured gently caress it, what the hell, some of you might be insane enough to buy us a tube of windo-weld. Probably not, but I lose literally nothing by posting! If you click this magical link your web browser will be spirited away to an Amazon wish list type dealio page where you too can be responsible for boxes of chevrolet parts appearing on Adiabatic's doorstep! It's a thoroughly uninteresting list at this point partly due to some things still being up in the air regarding exactly what engine/trans we're going to land up with, but some stuff (like those engine mounts and that tube of windo-weld) is definitely going to be required, and i've marked that stuff as "highest" priority mostly so that I personally don't forget this poo poo. Do I expect a single one of you to buy a single goddamn thing? Nope! But hey, gently caress it! In other news, over in Ken's thread he's making headway on getting his MJ working again so that hopefully next week we can finally acquire a powertrain for this magnificent machine and set a bunch of things in stone that are currently set in some kind of semi-thick mud. Maybe that corn starch stuff.
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Mar 13, 2016 08:24
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The last two tubes of windo-weld I bought from amazon (one in 2014, one again in late 2015 because I don't learn from my mistakes) were bolt ancient and partially cured in the tube. Beware.
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Mar 13, 2016 08:35
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Geirskogul posted:The last two tubes of windo-weld I bought from amazon (one in 2014, one again in late 2015 because I don't learn from my mistakes) were bolt ancient and partially cured in the tube. Beware. Interesting, noted. Did they refund you? I feel like they'd refund you.
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Mar 13, 2016 08:51
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The first one they didn't, but I was kind of an rear end to customer service when they didn't understand my issue (language barrier). The second time I was so bitter I cancelled my prime membership until now.
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Mar 13, 2016 09:18
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I like how the smart rear end descriptions are swapped for the engine mounts and window weld. I guess window weld IS a hell of a drug.
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Mar 13, 2016 15:00
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Alarbus posted:I like how the smart rear end descriptions are swapped for the engine mounts and window weld. I guess window weld IS a hell of a drug. Actually the descriptions are exactly where they should be. The window weld goes into the engine mounts, making them into a poor man's solid engine mount. 
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Mar 13, 2016 17:43
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God drat it, I knew that too.
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Mar 13, 2016 17:49
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How well does that work? It's sort of common in the 8th gen civic community but it sounds pretty hacky
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Mar 13, 2016 18:14
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There was a thing on Hot Rod Garage where they did it, it seems pretty common and makes sense. The 'air gaps' in non-solid mounts are a weak point. edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyuAXsqaqfA&t=550s start at 9:09 Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Mar 13, 2016 |
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Mar 13, 2016 19:00
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It's been pretty common in the Subaru community for awhile since you can fill the voids in your stock diff bushings without removing it. Since some models don't have an aftermarket diff bushing option it works out pretty well. I'm sure it far predates that application. Window-Weld is just liquid urethane so it's really no different from any other bushing. There are guys on GRM who pour their own NLA bushings using a wooden mould and 90A liquid urethane.
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Mar 13, 2016 19:01
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literally a fish posted:LADIES AND GOONS HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO BE ABLE TO CONSIDER YOURSELF RESPONSIBLE FOR AT LEAST SOME PART OF THIS INSANITY? TO LEAVE YOUR MARK ON THE WORLD AND MAKE IT JUST A TINY BIT STRANGER FOR THE LOW LOW PRICE OF LIKE $10.70 IN SOME CASES? Regarding your choice of swap mount plates, you might consider the sliding ones since your space is tight in there. Sliding the engine forward or backwards by a half inch might be helpful? Who knows.
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Mar 13, 2016 22:45
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I have urethaned the engine mounts in my 98 Explorer, my 97 Outback (RIP), and the transmission nose mount for the beetle. Seems okay so far.
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Mar 13, 2016 22:50
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Our commercial sales dude did it to the mounts on his crapcan pt cruiser after they started to fail. They seem to work perfectly. vOv
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Mar 13, 2016 23:23
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I did it to a '93 Cadillac STS I bought off the back lot of an Acura dealer for next to nothing. They couldn't figure out why the right rear wheel was flopping all over. Bushing was non-replacable, but I just pumped that fucker full of urethane and when it cured it worked perfectly.
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Mar 13, 2016 23:25
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EVERYWHERE 
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Raluek posted:Regarding your choice of swap mount plates, you might consider the sliding ones since your space is tight in there. Sliding the engine forward or backwards by a half inch might be helpful? Who knows. That's a fair point. I can get an adjustable plate that replaces the engine-side plate that kit comes with for $29 though; https://www.amazon.com/Billet-Bracket-Conversion-Adjustable-Adapter/dp/B00JU7LQ8Y/ I should probably add it to the list ShittyPostmakerPro posted:There was a thing on Hot Rod Garage where they did it, it seems pretty common and makes sense. The 'air gaps' in non-solid mounts are a weak point. This is actually where I got that idea as that first build video is very similar to what we're doing (SBC out, LM7 in) except that they elected to use a built 700R4 instead of the stock 4L60E. Not a major difference. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Mar 14, 2016 |
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Mar 14, 2016 00:36
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  it's just exhaust parts and a fuel pump but you gotta start somewhere
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Mar 15, 2016 09:41
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ALRIGHT WHICH ONE OF YOU BOUGHT US BRAKE DISCS AND DRUM HARDWARE Thankyou   E: Lets continue today's mailbag! Windo-weld:  Flowtech Warlock:  Two mufflers, two motor mounts, and a fuel pump: 
literally a fish fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Mar 18, 2016 |
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Mar 17, 2016 23:57
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BOOOOOOOOOOKED
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Mar 19, 2016 05:48
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poo poo, only four months to get the van ready?! 
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Mar 19, 2016 05:52
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RoadKill has slammed together less in 72 hours and driven it across the country. 
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Mar 19, 2016 06:41
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It usually makes most of the trip with no hood on it, nearly kills them from carbon monoxide poisoning and turns a 1-2 day trip into a week.
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Mar 19, 2016 07:32
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Yeah but we have 4 months not 72 hours It should be fine. On the surface, this swap seems way harder than it is. Rednecks can do it in a few weekends, and given that we have people with actual brains and mechanical skills involved, we should be closer to the 2-3 days of solid work that Hot Rod Garage put in to do their almost-identical-circumstances swap in the Bonemaro. This of course all depends on Ken fixing and MJ and getting us a powertrain 
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Mar 19, 2016 12:12
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some texas redneck posted:RoadKill has slammed together less in 72 hours and driven it across the country. They don't have day jobs getting in the way. as for the MJ and powertrain... working on it.
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Mar 19, 2016 13:18
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All good, man. No huge rush just yet. If roadkill can half-rear end it in 72 hours, we can 3/4-rear end it in 3 weekends, right?
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Mar 19, 2016 14:00
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It's all moot currently anyways. I won't be able to put any appreciable time into it until May.
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Mar 19, 2016 16:23
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