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blugu64 posted:How will you be using the car?: 16 round trip commute (can plug in at home (L1) and work(L2 $1/hr)) and 3-4 cross country trips a year. (Before you think it, I don't want a leaf+rental car) The volt is a great little car.
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Mar 18, 2016 03:35
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nm posted:I think his point is that because of the huge margins on CPOs that if a lixury car isn't CPOed on its own dealer lot, there is something wrong. Exactly. Dealers get an extra 3-4k for CPO vs not CPO, so if it's new enough to be CPO but isn't, that's a red flag. This is mostly based on an anecdotal experience. An ex bought an 09 328i in 2011 and it was not CPO, the dealer said only because one tire didn't match. Immediately A/C problems popped up and did patch jobs on it and claimed to have changed the compressor but there was no improvement. Lo and behold a year after purchase the a/c complete goes out and it's out of warranty and they can fix it for like 3K. The car had a couple other issues but the point is don't buy the only non CPO car on a lot, lol.
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Mar 18, 2016 03:41
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What is the newest used car I can get that I don't have to worry is not a CPO? 2010? 2011? 2012?
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Mar 18, 2016 04:16
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Still looking for stuff. Argh. This sucks pretty bad. How has reliability turned out on Jeep Renegades?
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Mar 18, 2016 04:27
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I mean, basically, I need to get a car/truck/SUV/something that gets good mileage and is reliable. I don't want to spend over 12 or 15 on it, and it needs to be able to get down a rocky lovely dirt road 5 times a week PLUS do freeway work. 
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Mar 18, 2016 04:39
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punk rebel ecks posted:What is the newest used car I can get that I don't have to worry is not a CPO? If it is at a luxury dealer, all lux brands have age and mileage requirements you can look up. If anything else, don't worry.
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Mar 18, 2016 05:36
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nm posted:If it is at a luxury dealer, all lux brands have age and mileage requirements you can look up. What would be a considered a "luxury brand"? I assume Mercedes, Lexus, and BMW and the like right? So anything that's a Toyota, Honda, or Ford should be fine regardless of the year? Sorry, I just want to be as accurate as possible.
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Mar 18, 2016 10:10
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http://www.cars.com/go/advice/shopping/cpo/programs/programGuide.jsp That link shows years/mileage requirements Toyota is 6yrs/85k, Honda is 6 years 80k
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Mar 18, 2016 12:38
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tater_salad posted:http://www.cars.com/go/advice/shopping/cpo/programs/programGuide.jsp So that means once I have a car that is either 6 years old or 85,000 miles then it is no longer under warranty? So if I buy a Toyota from them that has 70,000 miles on it, once I drive 15,000 miles it is no longer covered?
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Mar 19, 2016 09:41
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No, any car outside that range can't be cpo. Of you want the warranty info it's the rightmost column. So if you bought a 5 year old toyota with 75k you'd get 2 year or 25k of the power train AND 1 year 12k of a bumper to bumper. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Mar 19, 2016 |
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Mar 19, 2016 13:05
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tater_salad posted:No, any car outside that range can't be cpo. Ahh. I understand. Thanks.
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Mar 19, 2016 15:58
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Sitting at a lot with a 2012 civic with 40k miles for 13k and a 2013 with 20k miles for 15.5k, what you guys think?
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Mar 19, 2016 20:46
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Well, that is pleasant. Ended up getting a 2009 Prius, with leather/heated seats, not a scratch, backup camera, etc and 60,000 miles on it for 9500$ including tax, title, administrative fees, and a full tank of gas. Insurance pays out 7500$ for the totaled 2007. So I'm reasonably happy with my new 2000$ car. Only took a week of looking at dirty bent overpriced crap on lovely corner lots an hour away to find something decent.
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Mar 19, 2016 23:24
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Ingenium posted:Sitting at a lot with a 2012 civic with 40k miles for 13k and a 2013 with 20k miles for 15.5k, what you guys think? I hope you didn't buy either. The 2012 Civic is an outright bad car that got panned by everyone and necessitated an emergency refresh, which is that 2013. If you really want a Honda, why not get a Fit instead, you could get newer and in better shape for less money? They're better cars too.
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Mar 20, 2016 00:41
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Would the Honda Fit is better quality than Civic idea hold true for the 2015 and 2016 models?
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Mar 21, 2016 04:53
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I'm looking at low cost leases right now (~$150) and everything in the ads is saying automatic transmission but I would rather have a manual. Is the automatic trans pretty much a requirement? Considering a Civic, Impreza, Focus, and Mazda 3. All of which can be bought with a stick.
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Mar 22, 2016 21:53
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Leases that are advertised as $150/mo or some other nice round number probably have some way of loving you on the backside of them - super low mileage limits, high down payments, poo poo like that. You can absolutely negotiate a lease on any vehicle if you're getting it new. The reality is that even for cars / trims available as sticks, the actual inventory will be *very* slim. If nothing else - consider that any advertised "special" is a price and set of conditions that a car dealer is willing to offer with no negotiation on your part. This is not a good sign for it being a good deal.
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Mar 22, 2016 22:54
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In general they're a good deal if you meet all of the requirements but it is one of those no substitutions allowed type things. If you only drive 10k mi/year, and the down payment isn't too exorbitant (10% of cost of vehicle, IMO, for this type of lease), then it's probably a decent deal. edit: they are good deals because they are loss leaders, hence the no substitutions allowed bit. Certainly trim/options restricted and possibly VIN restricted as well. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 23:04
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm looking at low cost leases right now (~$150) and everything in the ads is saying automatic transmission but I would rather have a manual. Is the automatic trans pretty much a requirement? Considering a Civic, Impreza, Focus, and Mazda 3. All of which can be bought with a stick. Why a lease instead of purchase+finance?
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Mar 22, 2016 23:18
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It's time to get rid of our 98 civic with 268,000 miles on it. Since we've had it (long loving time), it has cost us $150 per month in maintenance to keep it running. We're looking at leases around that price so we can get something newer (more reliable/safer) without impacting our budget. H110Hawk posted:Why a lease instead of purchase+finance? Primarily for the low monthly payment and no surprise maintenance costs. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:In general they're a good deal if you meet all of the requirements but it is one of those no substitutions allowed type things. I drive way less than 10k miles a year so I can easily deal with any weird mileage restrictions. Planning on ~$2k down. IOwnCalculus posted:Leases that are advertised as $150/mo or some other nice round number probably have some way of loving you on the backside of them - super low mileage limits, high down payments, poo poo like that. You can absolutely negotiate a lease on any vehicle if you're getting it new. The reality is that even for cars / trims available as sticks, the actual inventory will be *very* slim. Very good points especially about the actual inventory. I'll swing by a couple dealers this week and ask for specifics.
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Mar 22, 2016 23:34
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Generally leases go like this 149* a Month *3k dow, tax, and dmv fees extra, 500 destination fee, 500 turn in fee, every discount imaginable (military, good student, competitor or loyalty discount, family and friends discount, can touch rear end with dick discount),on approved credit (710+ usually) must take delivery by xyz. Honestly of your budget is 150 try and find an advertised lease in the 100 a month range, also if you have poor credit you will pay a lot more.
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Mar 22, 2016 23:51
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tater_salad posted:Generally leases go like this Thanks for the breakdown, I'll keep that in mind. I have excellent credit so that shouldn't be an issue. My local Subaru dealer has a 2015 Impreza 2.0i for $89 that I'll check out tomorrow. I caught my wife looking at BRZs on carmax's website and she knows I'm dying to get one but I just started a new job last year with a less than great success rate so keeping long term expenses down is pretty important. Ford's site has a nice calculator for leases that shows how the down payment affects the monthly payment. I've never leased before so I'm just trying to gather info at this point before committing to anything!
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Mar 23, 2016 00:05
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two_beer_bishes posted:Thanks for the breakdown, I'll keep that in mind. I have excellent credit so that shouldn't be an issue. My local Subaru dealer has a 2015 Impreza 2.0i for $89 that I'll check out tomorrow. a less than great success rate so keeping long term expenses down is pretty important. I've never leased before so I'm just trying to gather info at this point before committing to anything! two_beer_bishes posted:It's time to get rid of our 98 civic with 268,000 miles on it. Since we've had it (long loving time), it has cost us $150 per month in maintenance to keep it running. We're looking at leases around that price so we can get something newer (more reliable/safer) without impacting our budget. Everything here screams to me "purchase." You obviously are willing to drive a car into the ground (Civic with 268k on the clock), you have $2k to put down (excellent credit this can be literally $0), and you have a self assessed history of "difficulty keeping long term expenses down." A lease is basically a car payment you never stop paying. It is very reliable, in that it's always $150, but you never have a time where it is $0. As I understand it insurance on an Impreza is much higher than a Civic, and it will certainly drink more gasoline. I would pick the car you want to drive into the ground and buy it, don't lease it. If you are extremely set on leasing, negotiate the hell out of it. Get rid of the fees, work on raising the residual value of the vehicle, and a insurance policy against damage which exceeds normal wear and tear. (This can be a huge surprise cost when you turn in the car.) Look at comparable lease return vehicles on the lot (basically their 2-3 year old low mileage CPO inventory) and look at the advertised prices. Consider there is a margin in there and now you have an idea of their residual value.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:22
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If you lease, put as little down as possible.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:27
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H110Hawk posted:Everything here screams to me "purchase." You obviously are willing to drive a car into the ground (Civic with 268k on the clock), you have $2k to put down (excellent credit this can be literally $0), and you have a self assessed history of "difficulty keeping long term expenses down." A lease is basically a car payment you never stop paying. It is very reliable, in that it's always $150, but you never have a time where it is $0. As I understand it insurance on an Impreza is much higher than a Civic, and it will certainly drink more gasoline. I would pick the car you want to drive into the ground and buy it, don't lease it. All spot on except the part about difficulty in keeping long term costs down. I think you mixed up two thoughts I had in the same sentence, I started a new job with a shaky success rate (and because of that we're aiming to keep our recurring costs low which we're historically very good at and want to continue). The more I'm reading the less I want to lease, but I don't want to even buy any of those cars at the moment. We can afford the BRZ that we both want but can't justify the monthly cost when two or three months of payment would fix the civic. Right now I'm leaning more towards just fixing the loving thing. I'll post some civic related stuff in AI soon.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:34
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you lease, put as little down as possible. This. If your lease gets totalled out for any reason, you effectively "lose" any/all money into it, including the down payment. When I was looking at leasing a Leaf ($4/gallon gas meant it would have cost a fraction more to lease a Leaf than to fuel and maintain my Ranger), there was a very small premium placed on a zero down lease. Total sum of all payments was maybe $100 more than total sum of all lower payments plus the down payment.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:41
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You could also find a newer used car.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:This. If your lease gets totalled out for any reason, you effectively "lose" any/all money into it, including the down payment. When I was looking at leasing a Leaf ($4/gallon gas meant it would have cost a fraction more to lease a Leaf than to fuel and maintain my Ranger), there was a very small premium placed on a zero down lease. Total sum of all payments was maybe $100 more than total sum of all lower payments plus the down payment. Right, and time value of money takes care of that and then some - although in the current low-interest rate environment, maybe less so.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:45
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two_beer_bishes posted:All spot on except the part about difficulty in keeping long term costs down. I think you mixed up two thoughts I had in the same sentence, I started a new job with a shaky success rate (and because of that we're aiming to keep our recurring costs low which we're historically very good at and want to continue). The more I'm reading the less I want to lease, but I don't want to even buy any of those cars at the moment. We can afford the BRZ that we both want but can't justify the monthly cost when two or three months of payment would fix the civic. Right now I'm leaning more towards just fixing the loving thing. I'll post some civic related stuff in AI soon. Fair enough. Either way, if you think the Civic is going to become an escalating money pit 268k/18 years is totally a reasonable number to be say "I am a responsible adult who wants a newer, safer, more reliable car." Snag a used/off lease Civic and call it a day.
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Mar 23, 2016 00:47
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Is there like some kind of special industry codeword that you can use to make car salespeople at least tone down the emotionally manipulative bullshit? "Well, I don't know if it's still going to be here if you insist on running all over town first. I'm giving you a great deal, why do you feel the need to insult me?" Oh god gently caress offffff you're literally making my head hurt.
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Mar 23, 2016 13:56
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Just tell the guy you won't do business with him if he does stupid poo poo and keep your word if he does.
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Mar 23, 2016 15:56
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http://leasehackr.com/blog/2016/3/4/compact-sedan-leases-ranked-civic-focus-jetta-cruze You should be able to get a price somewhere between the average and excellent prices listed there with no money down. Remember, when negotiating leases, focus on the cap cost, which is MSRP + destination - discount- rebates. You can't negotiate the residual at all because that's set by the bank, but you can negotiate the money factor to a certain extent. The bank sets the money factor, and you can't go lower than that, however the dealer generally can increase the money factor up to a certain amount for profit.
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Mar 23, 2016 16:14
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Xequecal posted:Is there like some kind of special industry codeword that you can use to make car salespeople at least tone down the emotionally manipulative bullshit? "Well, I don't know if it's still going to be here if you insist on running all over town first. I'm giving you a great deal, why do you feel the need to insult me?" Oh god gently caress offffff you're literally making my head hurt. I usually just go  with answers like "ok" "hmm" "i dunno" and kill the conversation instead of letting them lead it where they want.
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Mar 24, 2016 02:12
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"gently caress you." *goes home and does BY-OWNER-ONLY search on Craigslist*
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Mar 24, 2016 02:32
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VideoTapir posted:"gently caress you." *goes home and does BY-OWNER-ONLY search on Craigslist* *gets an unending stream of RAN WHEN PARKED ONLY 277K ORIGINAL MILES* Buying cars sucks.
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Mar 24, 2016 02:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:*gets an unending stream of RAN WHEN PARKED ONLY 277K ORIGINAL MILES* I'm not a dealer I just buy and sell cars all day! *spams CL with the down payment as the purchase price so it shows on every search*
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Mar 24, 2016 11:21
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Oh god its an e30 convertible listed at $1500 https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5488677006.html  why not?
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Mar 24, 2016 19:09
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The vert was floppy garbage and that example is turbo hosed. Screams parts car.
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Mar 24, 2016 20:33
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I mean, basically, I need to get a car/truck/SUV/something that gets good mileage and is reliable. I don't want to spend over 12 or 15 on it, and it needs to be able to get down a rocky lovely dirt road 5 times a week PLUS do freeway work. If you live in an (arid) area where they would have survived this long a fully restored 1st gen 4runner (-1989) with a 22re or 4x4 Hilux. They do take maintenance to keep running though, and I'll admit I'm pretty biased. ...Ha, just searched your posts and seems like you probably already at least likely considered that option. Mr.Mysterioso fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Mar 25, 2016 |
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Mar 25, 2016 05:59
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I did. They're all rock crawlers out here or still being used as work trucks. I ended up picking up a Mazda 2 which should do the trick for a while. It's a great car to drive.
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Mar 25, 2016 20:57
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