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Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
Mark V is absolutely my favorite mark of armour.

Just looks amazing

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Stanyer89
Aug 4, 2012

Ville Valo posted:

Are there any specific models that absolutely shouldn't be used for a 30K Ultramarines force? I'm trying to keep my new army dual-purpose, so I can play in as many local games as possible.

All my tac marines/vets are Betrayal at Calth + FW shoulders/helmets/torsos, all the terminators are BaC too. I've got Ven Dreads from 40K, though, and current Rhinos with FW panels/doors.

So long as I'm not trying to throw Calgar or something in there, should I be alright, fluff-wise?

Edit: color test from this weekend:


I say things like a stormraven or other specific vehicles that have a size difference while being the same thing shouldn't be used, but as far as power armour goes I'd say anything up to and including MKVII works in my book.


Why say this for MKVII:

Mark VII armour, also known as the “Aquila,” “Imperator” or “Eagle” armour, was developed during the Horus Heresy, and remains in use as the most common form of power armour ten thousand years later. It represents the final major development of Mark 6 armour. While the final battle for Mars was underway, the Imperium realised the planet would eventually be lost. Armour development teams were transferred to Earth to continue, incorporating their latest work into the armour type that would become Mark 7. As Mars fell to Horus, the new armour began reaching the Space Marines on Terra and Luna.

DJ Dizzy
Feb 11, 2009

Real men don't use bolters.

Stanyer89 posted:

MkIII or IV?

IV uber alles for ground troops.

adamantium|wang
Sep 14, 2003

Missing you
That's a funny way to spell III

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005

Ville Valo posted:

Are there any specific models that absolutely shouldn't be used for a 30K Ultramarines force? I'm trying to keep my new army dual-purpose, so I can play in as many local games as possible.

All my tac marines/vets are Betrayal at Calth + FW shoulders/helmets/torsos, all the terminators are BaC too. I've got Ven Dreads from 40K, though, and current Rhinos with FW panels/doors.

So long as I'm not trying to throw Calgar or something in there, should I be alright, fluff-wise?

Edit: color test from this weekend:


Anyone who gives you poo poo about the armour mks on your mans isn't worth playing. Dreads are dreads, marines are marines and rhinos are rhinos. As others have said avoid aircraft* that can't swap over and you'll be fine. Hopefully.


* I'd personally be fine with a Stormtalon standing in for a Xiphon but eh.

Ville Valo
Sep 17, 2004

I'm waiting for your call
and I'm ready to take
your six six six
in my heart

TTerrible posted:

Anyone who gives you poo poo about the armour mks on your mans isn't worth playing. Dreads are dreads, marines are marines and rhinos are rhinos. As others have said avoid aircraft* that can't swap over and you'll be fine. Hopefully.


* I'd personally be fine with a Stormtalon standing in for a Xiphon but eh.

I'm less worried about people giving me poo poo (though there are some rules for tournament entry / table use at certain shops) and more about having a fluffy army for my own enjoyment. :)

I haven't dipped into aircraft yet, as I'm mostly playing ZM right now, but that's good to keep in mind.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Oh, ignore me then. I misunderstood where you were coming from somewhere between reading and posting. :downs:

Ville Valo
Sep 17, 2004

I'm waiting for your call
and I'm ready to take
your six six six
in my heart
No worries; I wasn't super clear about why I was asking. Thanks!

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
I think we can all agree that MKIII is the best power armor

panascope
Mar 26, 2005

Wrong. Mark IV is God-tier. Mark III is for the legions who didn't know how to bathe themselves.

OhDearGodNo
Jan 3, 2014

panascope posted:

Wrong. Mark IV is God-tier. Mark III is for the legions who didn't know how to bathe themselves.

I was going to disagree until I gave it some thought.

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer
I like MkV the best, but I don't plan on having any in my 30k DA for dumb reasons. I plan on separating Marks II through IV by unit type. :shepface: I like them all for different reasons, but Mk II looks sick with the DA custom bits. I'm not a big fan of it standard. That'll be saved for veteran squads and poo poo.

adamantium|wang
Sep 14, 2003

Missing you
When I finally have that stroke and start buying 30K all my Death Guard will be in Mk III save for the vets who will be in Mk II.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
I'm using MKIV army wide because Betrayal at Calth tactical squads are cheap as dirt compared to anything from FW.

I painted up a very quick test marine tonight to test my yellow recipe and I'm not convinced.



There are three yellows on there, but they're faaar too similar. I need to head more towards brown on the base.

krursk
Sep 11, 2001

Your anguish sustains me.

TTerrible posted:

I'm using MKIV army wide because Betrayal at Calth tactical squads are cheap as dirt compared to anything from FW.

I painted up a very quick test marine tonight to test my yellow recipe and I'm not convinced.



There are three yellows on there, but they're faaar too similar. I need to head more towards brown on the base.

Your marine looks really nice to me. Are you using an airbrush? I was originally using brown to do my shading but it was too easy to mess up the tone. I switched to orange and it works well.

Lately I've been priming white and pre-shadowing the under areas with orange. I zenithal the mids with tamiya lemon yellow and then do a light white highlight on the most exposed bits: tops of shoulder pads; the helmets crest; top left corner of the breastplate; the top of the backpack; and the knees. Then I give it a spray with thinned flashgitz to bring it all together.

For the washes I was initially doing a pin wash with burnt umber oil paint and white spirits but I just wasn't 100% happy with the results. I've since moved to a few coats of wonder wash (all the brownish and yellowish washes mixed together with loads of thinner and flow assister), followed up with an undiluted 50/50 Druchii Violet & Carroburg Crimson line wash. I'm still experimenting but I like the current effect so far even though it takes a lot more time then a simple pin wash.

I'm not at home this week and I don't have any pictures of my current test models but this was an earlier experiment. I used a tamiya orange as the dark shade underneath followed by a flat yellow highlight with a thin sepia wash. I wasn't happy with it as it was too dark in general but the orange under the yellow gave it some reasonable shading without looking too brown and dull. I'll eventually fix the model up with some flashgitz highlights and finish it but that can wait until after I assembly-line paint the 120 marines and 12 tanks that are sitting primed on my work table.

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BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

panascope posted:

Wrong. Mark IV is God-tier. Mark III is for the legions who didn't know how to bathe themselves.

More like Plebeian-tier. As TTerrible says, MKIV is for legions too poor to afford better looking armour.


krursk posted:

Lately I've been priming white and pre-shadowing the under areas with orange. I zenithal the mids with tamiya lemon yellow and then do a light white highlight on the most exposed bits: tops of shoulder pads; the helmets crest; top left corner of the breastplate; the top of the backpack; and the knees. Then I give it a spray with thinned flashgitz to bring it all together.


You're on the money with your yellow technique. I've found that a reddish brown undercoat and a zenithal basecoat are the way to go. After that I Vallejo Transparent Yellow or GW's Casandora Yellow are liquid magic that bring the yellow to life. I shade with sepia and dark browns such as burnt umber.

Stanyer89
Aug 4, 2012

krursk posted:

Your marine looks really nice to me. Are you using an airbrush? I was originally using brown to do my shading but it was too easy to mess up the tone. I switched to orange and it works well.

Lately I've been priming white and pre-shadowing the under areas with orange. I zenithal the mids with tamiya lemon yellow and then do a light white highlight on the most exposed bits: tops of shoulder pads; the helmets crest; top left corner of the breastplate; the top of the backpack; and the knees. Then I give it a spray with thinned flashgitz to bring it all together.

For the washes I was initially doing a pin wash with burnt umber oil paint and white spirits but I just wasn't 100% happy with the results. I've since moved to a few coats of wonder wash (all the brownish and yellowish washes mixed together with loads of thinner and flow assister), followed up with an undiluted 50/50 Druchii Violet & Carroburg Crimson line wash. I'm still experimenting but I like the current effect so far even though it takes a lot more time then a simple pin wash.

I'm not at home this week and I don't have any pictures of my current test models but this was an earlier experiment. I used a tamiya orange as the dark shade underneath followed by a flat yellow highlight with a thin sepia wash. I wasn't happy with it as it was too dark in general but the orange under the yellow gave it some reasonable shading without looking too brown and dull. I'll eventually fix the model up with some flashgitz highlights and finish it but that can wait until after I assembly-line paint the 120 marines and 12 tanks that are sitting primed on my work table.



Yellow is by far my favorite colour on marines, when done correctly like you have.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005

krursk posted:

Your marine looks really nice to me. Are you using an airbrush? I was originally using brown to do my shading but it was too easy to mess up the tone. I switched to orange and it works well.

Lately I've been priming white and pre-shadowing the under areas with orange. I zenithal the mids with tamiya lemon yellow and then do a light white highlight on the most exposed bits: tops of shoulder pads; the helmets crest; top left corner of the breastplate; the top of the backpack; and the knees. Then I give it a spray with thinned flashgitz to bring it all together.

For the washes I was initially doing a pin wash with burnt umber oil paint and white spirits but I just wasn't 100% happy with the results. I've since moved to a few coats of wonder wash (all the brownish and yellowish washes mixed together with loads of thinner and flow assister), followed up with an undiluted 50/50 Druchii Violet & Carroburg Crimson line wash. I'm still experimenting but I like the current effect so far even though it takes a lot more time then a simple pin wash.

I'm not at home this week and I don't have any pictures of my current test models but this was an earlier experiment. I used a tamiya orange as the dark shade underneath followed by a flat yellow highlight with a thin sepia wash. I wasn't happy with it as it was too dark in general but the orange under the yellow gave it some reasonable shading without looking too brown and dull. I'll eventually fix the model up with some flashgitz highlights and finish it but that can wait until after I assembly-line paint the 120 marines and 12 tanks that are sitting primed on my work table.



That yellow is beautiful! Woah.

The scheme I tried tonight was:

Airbrush:
Prime grey Vallejo surface primer.
Base VMA yellow ochre (71.033)
Zenithal highlight of VMA Yellow RLM04 (71.078)
VMA Gloss varnish

Brush:
VGC Sepia Shade wash with some flow improver into the panel edges
Glaze consistency highlight of VMA medium yellow (71.002) on the upper edges of panels.
Chest eagle in VGA black with VMA black grey highlight just so I wasn't looking at a solid slab of yellow.

(An aside rant about the VMA paint naming scheme.Yellow is yellow and "medium yellow" is nuclear neon. Come on! :v:)

I think I need to either tone the base coat waaaay down to an orange as you say, or go for a full zenithal black/grey/white prime and put very thin mid-yellow over it. I worry that might end up way too bright though. I guess Mr Errant is going back in the biostip for some more experimentation tomorrow. That's a pretty full workbench you have. I've got ten Betrayal at Calth tactical squads sat here waiting to be assembled into a yellow tide and that is bad enough.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
You should really try a Transparent Yellow wash to bring out the color. Just putting it on your existing model would brighten the color and give it a warm red saturation. Combined with a reddish brown undercoat you'll have a great looking yellow. I think panascope used something similar on his titan project a few years ago.

Stanyer89
Aug 4, 2012

BULBASAUR posted:

You should really try a Transparent Yellow wash to bring out the color. Just putting it on your existing model would brighten the color and give it a warm red saturation. Combined with a reddish brown undercoat you'll have a great looking yellow. I think panascope used something similar on his titan project a few years ago.

He did? I didn't think he ever painted it...

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011

details on that left figure thanks

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

details on that left figure thanks
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Blood-Angels-Chaplain-with-Jump-Pack

It's some character model they pumped out a few months ago. It wasn't tied to a release, just a random wave of releases or something.

muggins
Mar 3, 2008

I regard the death and mangling of a couple thousand toy soldiers as a small affair, a kind of morning dash
Our club did a strategic raid mission from book 4. Here is the YouTube battle report:

https://youtu.be/f-D7PgxqhWQ

Hencoe
Sep 4, 2012

MY LIFE GOAL IS TO STICK A FLESHLIGHT INTO THE END OF A HOWITZER AND FUCK THE SHIT OUT OF IT
Brutal, I'm basically waiting 3 weeks because the sicaran MBTs are out of stock, I want my red book already :(

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

muggins posted:

Our club did a strategic raid mission from book 4. Here is the YouTube battle report:

https://youtu.be/f-D7PgxqhWQ

Hell yes, your leviathan is one serious motherfucker. Once he stomps onto the board he has no breaks. Really diggin these bat reps.

Does your group play with first blood in every mission or is it just standard in strategic raids?

Stanyer89
Aug 4, 2012

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

details on that left figure thanks


Safety Factor posted:

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Blood-Angels-Chaplain-with-Jump-Pack

It's some character model they pumped out a few months ago. It wasn't tied to a release, just a random wave of releases or something.

Close. Here is a picture after the arm was magnetized and chopped and redone with Forgeworld bits. I can get a better picture later of what it looks like now that it is done and based. I think it looks better without the crozius and since I run him as my 30k Warden (Chaplain) it is nice to be able to switch out what weapons he is equipped with.

Stanyer89 fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Mar 19, 2016

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer
Alright, goons, I'm looking for some advice. I've completed the first five of my Dark Angels army and I'm trying to decide on a color for their weapons. My 40k DA have always had black guns, chainswords, or whatever so I'm kind of leaning towards that. Additionally, the couple of background images showing DA models in book VI also seem to show black weapons. The lovely, rushed models painted for the task force bundle also have black weapons. Those are all my reasons. Now, I have crudely painted five different options to choose from. I'm honestly between dark red or black weapon casings. The others are just included for completeness` sake.





I know the lighting is off on these pictures and they don't really show all the highlights on the armor, but it's loving storming outside so natural light wasn't really available. I'll get better pictures of these guys once the bolters are all done.


These models took me a lot longer than they should because I kept going back over every mistake while thinking about what to do next. I've tried to spice up the basic black/silver armor paint scheme and since DA are all about esoteric symbols and poo poo, that's easy. The lighting doesn't show them well, but two of the models have dark green stripes on their bare shoulder pad and there's the occasional green elbow or knee pad. Those might need to be bumped up from Dark Angels green to something brighter to be more visible. One model has a black cross on a bone background and one more has an attempt at a checker pattern. I'm not 100% happy with the checkers so I might paint over them, but it was worth trying and I will definitely work them into the rest of my army. The studs are all done in brass and might still need a highlight pass while the black armor was highlighted with shadow grey followed by fortress gray. If anyone remember what those colors looked like. The scheme is mostly nailed down at this point and I know where I can save time on future models. On the (potential) flipside, I found that those ridiculous knives got in the way while painting and there's actually some spots with bare plastic behind them. I know they're not visible and no one will ever notice them, but I'll be leaving the power packs and knives off future models at least until I can get all the cables behind them.

Obviously, these guys aren't based yet nor have they been sealed if that matters. I am planning on going with these for the entire army. I'm open to ideas for the color of the bases; marble, granite, etc. are all options. I'd like something that contrasts with the black armor so the models stand out a bit more.

So yeah. It begins.

Stanyer89
Aug 4, 2012

Safety Factor posted:

Alright, goons, I'm looking for some advice. I've completed the first five of my Dark Angels army and I'm trying to decide on a color for their weapons. My 40k DA have always had black guns, chainswords, or whatever so I'm kind of leaning towards that. Additionally, the couple of background images showing DA models in book VI also seem to show black weapons. The lovely, rushed models painted for the task force bundle also have black weapons. Those are all my reasons. Now, I have crudely painted five different options to choose from. I'm honestly between dark red or black weapon casings. The others are just included for completeness` sake.





I know the lighting is off on these pictures and they don't really show all the highlights on the armor, but it's loving storming outside so natural light wasn't really available. I'll get better pictures of these guys once the bolters are all done.


These models took me a lot longer than they should because I kept going back over every mistake while thinking about what to do next. I've tried to spice up the basic black/silver armor paint scheme and since DA are all about esoteric symbols and poo poo, that's easy. The lighting doesn't show them well, but two of the models have dark green stripes on their bare shoulder pad and there's the occasional green elbow or knee pad. Those might need to be bumped up from Dark Angels green to something brighter to be more visible. One model has a black cross on a bone background and one more has an attempt at a checker pattern. I'm not 100% happy with the checkers so I might paint over them, but it was worth trying and I will definitely work them into the rest of my army. The studs are all done in brass and might still need a highlight pass while the black armor was highlighted with shadow grey followed by fortress gray. If anyone remember what those colors looked like. The scheme is mostly nailed down at this point and I know where I can save time on future models. On the (potential) flipside, I found that those ridiculous knives got in the way while painting and there's actually some spots with bare plastic behind them. I know they're not visible and no one will ever notice them, but I'll be leaving the power packs and knives off future models at least until I can get all the cables behind them.

Obviously, these guys aren't based yet nor have they been sealed if that matters. I am planning on going with these for the entire army. I'm open to ideas for the color of the bases; marble, granite, etc. are all options. I'd like something that contrasts with the black armor so the models stand out a bit more.

So yeah. It begins.

Red guns for sure and maybe some thicker highlights? I'm a bigger fan of zenith style dry brushing myself but that comes at the cost of having less crisp clean looking models...

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Seconding the red guns. Those chequered shoulder pads are awesome.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
The red one looks the best, agreed. Another color that would work imo would be an olive green with a sepia wash.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
I like orange guns on my Ultramarines

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
I'm trying to choose between a couple of legions (I think I'm out with Solar Auxilia, for now)

Emperor's Children, White Scars or Night Lords

I'm swinging towards White Scars, but I'm not sure if it's worth buying the Calth box for them - as I don't know if that's just too many foot slogging units for what should be a fast army. My question is, does anyone know when or if they're getting their own units or models?

DJ Dizzy
Feb 11, 2009

Real men don't use bolters.

Yeast posted:

I'm trying to choose between a couple of legions (I think I'm out with Solar Auxilia, for now)

Emperor's Children, White Scars or Night Lords

I'm swinging towards White Scars, but I'm not sure if it's worth buying the Calth box for them - as I don't know if that's just too many foot slogging units for what should be a fast army. My question is, does anyone know when or if they're getting their own units or models?

You can bet your rear end they will be on bikes.

muggins
Mar 3, 2008

I regard the death and mangling of a couple thousand toy soldiers as a small affair, a kind of morning dash

BULBASAUR posted:

Hell yes, your leviathan is one serious motherfucker. Once he stomps onto the board he has no breaks. Really diggin these bat reps.

Does your group play with first blood in every mission or is it just standard in strategic raids?

I believe that was just in the strategic raid thing

Lord Twisted
Apr 3, 2010

In the Emperor's name, let none survive.
Re: Leviathans, how are people running them? Shoots grav and storm cannon looks cool, but it seems they really shine in CC... Except take a while to get there. Thoughts?

krursk
Sep 11, 2001

Your anguish sustains me.

Lord Twisted posted:

Re: Leviathans, how are people running them? Shoots grav and storm cannon looks cool, but it seems they really shine in CC... Except take a while to get there. Thoughts?

I've not used mine in a game yet, but I got one with a drill, a claw and a dread drop pod. My plan is to drop into the opponents deployment and sit pretty in the pod for a turn. If still in play turn 2, start rapeing.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
The rules update PDF clarified that dreads must immediately disembark. I think.

krursk
Sep 11, 2001

Your anguish sustains me.

TTerrible posted:

The rules update PDF clarified that dreads must immediately disembark. I think.

Nah, they are still good.

FAQ posted:

Legion Drop Pod (CAL – page 36)
Add the following line to the end of the Drop Pod Assault special rule:
“Once a Drop Pod lands, all passengers must disembark and no models can embark for the rest of the game.”
Note that this addition does not apply to other listed Drop Pod types, which have their own variants of this special rule and are costed appropriately to reflect this.
Dread drop pod rules specifically state that the dread can hide inside if you so choose. They also get shrouded the turn they arrive.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Ahh cool. I need to get all that update stuff straight in my brain. :(

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BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Yup. That's how I plan to run mine. Pod and either a melta lance for murdering armour or the grav bombard for killing infantry and rapiers. You want at least one melee arm. Snippy crab claw if you expect 2+ wound models or the siege claw if you plan to crump armour. Phosphex if you have extra points. I'd probably stick with the heavy flamers as well.

The dread drop pod is open topped, shrouded, and has 2 or 3HP (can't remember). Think of it as extra hullpoints with a 5++ save, 4++ if it's night fighting. It's what makes the leviathan work.

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