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Enourmo posted:How wide are the current shelves and do they work for you? Is the layout fine on those? The wire shelves right now are probably 22" deep, which for any shelf other than one or two, makes the back part completely worthless. For support, I planned to use 1x2" rails, screwed into the studs, to serve as the base to attach the shelves. I'm just not sure on how to construct the shelves themselves. If I go with a flat shelf, easy. If I want to do an L-shaped shelf, do I make that out of one piece of wood, two pieces attached? I own no power tools at this time (other than a $20 drill), so I'm looking forward to my first project. I thought I could just use a circular saw to cut the shelves, but every video I've seen they're using a table saw. Do I actually need one? I feel like I wouldn't use it as often as a circular saw.
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Mar 23, 2016 16:14
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You might want to look into the wood closetmaid systems. Having the shelving be adjustable is nice. And they are pre-cut and laminated. If you want to build your own a circular saw is fine, but you will probably also want a level, a couple clamps, a tape measure, a square, and maybe a couple saw horses. Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 16:19
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Omne posted:I own no power tools at this time (other than a $20 drill), so I'm looking forward to my first project. I thought I could just use a circular saw to cut the shelves, but every video I've seen they're using a table saw. Do I actually need one? I feel like I wouldn't use it as often as a circular saw. Everything you can do with a table saw you can do with a circular saw and the appropriate jigs. Table saws make things more convenient...but whether that's worth splashing out $500+ for a decent table saw (the cheaper ones are not worthwhile) is up to you. For that matter, depending on your plans you might just want to use a hand saw for this project. Pine is easy to cut by hand. I'm not clear what you mean by "L-shaped" shelving. My big question is how you're transferring weight from the leading edge of the shelf to the stud. You want to make certain that any weight you apply to the shelf has relatively little leverage to act on your support system. That's why I'd recommend either using metal brackets, or manufacturing similar brackets out of wood. Wooden ones wouldn't be too difficult to make -- make a 45° cut to create a triangle, use glue or screws to attach the triangle to the shelf. To attach the triangle to the wall, glue or bolt some blocks (like a 1x2 or something) to it and then screw/bolt through the blocks and into the stud. Assuming you glued things properly, the block-triangle-shelf system will be rigidly connected and able to support a lot of weight.
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Mar 23, 2016 16:30
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I like the Ikea Algot shelving system. It's about half the price of what you'd spend on the Closetmaid, with solid shelf surfaces instead of the wire. However, you can't customize the width like you can with the Closetmaid. You're stuck using Ikea's widths.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Everything you can do with a table saw you can do with a circular saw and the appropriate jigs. Table saws make things more convenient...but whether that's worth splashing out $500+ for a decent table saw (the cheaper ones are not worthwhile) is up to you. For that matter, depending on your plans you might just want to use a hand saw for this project. Pine is easy to cut by hand. OK I really like what he made in the video, it seems way classier than wire shelving and the pre-made slatwall panels. But I'm at a loss as to how I would accomplish it in my garage. How hard is it to cut the angle for the cleats with a circular saw? What about the dado slots? I have a drill press already, thats it. If I want to make what he made in the video, I'm guessing I would buy a circular saw, make some saw horses, and get some sort of clamping straight edge to cut down the full sheets of plywood to size, but then I'm about lost at that point as to what other tools I would need to purchase to complete the project in a safe and reasonable manner. Ideally, not spending a ton of money on the tools but also not making the project extraordinary hard by using the wrong tool for the job (especially for someone that is new to woodworking and already intimidated, it seems easy in the video because he has that huge outfeed / infeed table and large saw). If I were to get a table saw, it would be a $500-1000 job site type as I have a super small garage and it would need to be moved out of the way to get the car in when its not in use. Vulcan fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 18:06
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I didn't watch the video you're talking about. However, most circular saws have some ability to do angled cuts. And grooves can be cut by just making certain the blade is raised enough so that it doesn't cut all the way through the piece. You can probably get the hardware store to cut your plywood sheet down for you. They may not be the most precise cutters in the world, but they generally get within a half-inch at least. Manipulating large sheets of plywood is kind of a pain. You don't have to have sawhorses for this project; you can just work on the ground. Put your piece on a few scraps or 2x4s so the sawblade won't hit anything when it passes through the bottom of the piece, and make certain the piece is supported on both sides of the cut, and you're good to go.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:18
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I took my morning dump today and when I went to flush the toilet I got a rude awakening. Yep, instead of flushing the toilet the handle just made a jangling noise. My girlfriend is out of town for less than 36 hours and I gently caress something up. Click here to see an imgur album of the broken metal part. (I couldn't add the album here because my phone apparently uses as many pixels as it can when taking a photo.) I know how it broke, and it's because that small piece of metal snapped. It's supposed to connect to a tiny plunger that lifts to feed water into my toilet bowl, but it broke right at the base of the plunger so fuuuuuck me right? I need to know if there's any sort of material I can use for this that isn't going to cost me the $350 that our apartment's 'repair guys' would cost. Is this something that Mighty Putty poo poo could do? Duct Tape? Anything, like can I buy a replacement part for $5 even? Any technical aspects needed to better help my problem please just ask and I will reply ASAP.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:23
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Most of the parts in your average toilet are pretty standard. I bet if you take that piece in to Home Depot or whatever you'll be able to find a replacement. BTW you can drain your toilet tank by closing the water inlet valve for the toilet (which should be visible along the wall behind the toilet or somewhere nearby) and then flushing the toilet. You can flush manually by just lifting up the flap that the flush handle is normally supposed to lift.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:29
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Based on your description, that rod connects the tank lever to the flapper. I'm reasonably certain the plumbing department at Home Depot will have just what you need. If not, it looks like there are a bunch of flappers that connect with a chain instead of a metal rod; you might replace the entire flapper for ~$5. Make sure you note what the manufacturer of your toilet is, and maybe take some pictures.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Most of the parts in your average toilet are pretty standard. I bet if you take that piece in to Home Depot or whatever you'll be able to find a replacement. Oh my god thank you so much this was the most annoying part. Seriously thank you. Safety Dance posted:Based on your description, that rod connects the tank lever to the flapper. I'm reasonably certain the plumbing department at Home Depot will have just what you need. If not, it looks like there are a bunch of flappers that connect with a chain instead of a metal rod; you might replace the entire flapper for ~$5. Make sure you note what the manufacturer of your toilet is, and maybe take some pictures. The flapper is the little black plunger right? I took a poo poo ton of pictures, cleaned off both the broken parts and now I'm gonna run to home depot. My day is most certainly screwed by this loving thing. Thank you so much I'd kiss you if I knew you in real life.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:38
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If you are renting, that is squarely in the realm of stuff the apartment owner should fix right away and pay for. Also most likely it's a good idea to replace the valve, flapper, and handle now too - it's a cheap and easy repair and the other stuff is likely to be worn out too.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:38
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Twerkteam Pizza posted:I took my morning dump today and when I went to flush the toilet I got a rude awakening. Yep, instead of flushing the toilet the handle just made a jangling noise. My girlfriend is out of town for less than 36 hours and I gently caress something up. Click here to see an imgur album of the broken metal part. (I couldn't add the album here because my phone apparently uses as many pixels as it can when taking a photo.) Unless you have some kind of exotic shitter, you're going to be able to replace the entire guts of the tank for like $25. The toilet handle attaches to a lever that probably pulls a chain that unseats a flapper. From the sound of it (I have no idea what part you're showing in your album), that mechanism broke somewhere. I think it's like sub $10 to fix that mechanism. I mean if you are seriously stumped by this, remove the toilet handle, feed a very light stainless chain you get at the hardware store through it and attach it to the flapper, and your toilet will flush while you bone up on shitter tech and do it right. Or keep a big fuckin pitcher of water by the toilet, you can flush a toilet by dumping it in. This is how us people on private wells flush when the power goes out, we prefill the bathtub and scoop from there to flush.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:39
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slap me silly posted:If you are renting, that is squarely in the realm of stuff the apartment owner should fix right away and pay for. College apartment, so when my girlfriend signed the lease she didn't know it was with the sleaziest landowner alive. Plus we have a cat that breaks the lease and our $880 security deposit so I'd have to run the cat to someone else's place. Yeah we're moving out soon.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:40
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Last message before I run to Home Depot with all this stuff. THANK YOU SO MUCH DIY GOONS!!!!I'm kind of an Ivory Tower asshat (Sociology and English double major with a minor in Mathematics and Economics), but if there is ANYTHING I can help you out with feel free to PM me TooMuchAbstraction, Safety Dance, slap me silly, or uwaeve Seriously you guys rule
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Mar 23, 2016 18:45
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College apartments are fully in the realm of sleazy landlords since they can take advantage of kids who don't know any better, put minimal money into the place because college students are generally disgusting, and not give a poo poo because of location and demand for housing. I would recommend graduating as soon as possible.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:47
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Twerkteam Pizza posted:My girlfriend is out of town for less than 36 hours and I gently caress something up. You made it that long? Congrats. About five years ago I was putting some vinyl laminate flooring down in my bathroom. I don't think it was more than 10 minutes after my wife left to do some errands that I shoved a utility knife straight into my thigh while trimming a piece of flooring. Had to drive myself to the urgent care place and get stitched up, and had several square inches of diminished sensation on my leg for years! The moral of the story is, never do anything.
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Mar 23, 2016 19:04
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I fixed it thank christ.stubblyhead posted:You made it that long? Congrats. About five years ago I was putting some vinyl laminate flooring down in my bathroom. I don't think it was more than 10 minutes after my wife left to do some errands that I shoved a utility knife straight into my thigh while trimming a piece of flooring. Had to drive myself to the urgent care place and get stitched up, and had several square inches of diminished sensation on my leg for years! The moral of the story is, never do anything. This is me in 5 years, tops
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Mar 23, 2016 20:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Everything you can do with a table saw you can do with a circular saw and the appropriate jigs. Table saws make things more convenient...but whether that's worth splashing out $500+ for a decent table saw (the cheaper ones are not worthwhile) is up to you. For that matter, depending on your plans you might just want to use a hand saw for this project. Pine is easy to cut by hand. Here's a link to a plan I have for mine (though my pantry isn't nearly as big): http://www.thehouseofsmiths.com/2010/07/pantry-remix.html Here's an image of the current pantry. The left side is the current, with the entirety of the depth made up of the wire shelves. The picture on the right is the L-shaped shelves. 
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Mar 23, 2016 20:51
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Omne posted:Here's a link to a plan I have for mine (though my pantry isn't nearly as big): http://www.thehouseofsmiths.com/2010/07/pantry-remix.html The pantry in that link has the door in the corner of the pantry. Yours is in the middle of a long wall, there's no reason not to use the space to the right. I think something like this would work:  Assuming the door's about 2 feet wide or thereabouts, you can just make 3 boards for each level, each 12" x 24". You'll need L brackets for the middle piece, but if you support the others by running your 1x2s around the whole perimeter it should be stiff enough not to need brackets for the end pieces. This way uses more of the pantry volume while stlil leaving the full shelf depth accessible. Bonus is they're a lot easier to remove for cleaning E: Hell, you could just buy some of these and cut them in half lengthwise into 12" by 24" sections, as long as you have an even number of shelves there's no waste. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 22:32
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Enourmo posted:E: Hell, you could just buy some of these and cut them in half lengthwise into 12" by 24" sections, as long as you have an even number of shelves there's no waste. Oh! This reminds me: Home Depot pine boards are almost universally crap. Be prepared to do a lot of sorting through boards to find the one or two actually unwarped, uncupped boards in the pile. If you can find a "Home Depot Pro" (a.k.a. contractor store) in your area, go there instead; in my experience the quality of their boards is a lot higher. And they won't give a poo poo that you're not actually a contractor.
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Mar 23, 2016 23:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Oh! This reminds me: Home Depot pine boards are almost universally crap. Be prepared to do a lot of sorting through boards to find the one or two actually unwarped, uncupped boards in the pile. If you can find a "Home Depot Pro" (a.k.a. contractor store) in your area, go there instead; in my experience the quality of their boards is a lot higher. And they won't give a poo poo that you're not actually a contractor. Yeah sorry I just linked the first example i found, didn't mean to imply home depot was a source of quality lumber 
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Mar 23, 2016 23:22
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Enourmo posted:The pantry in that link has the door in the corner of the pantry. Yours is in the middle of a long wall, there's no reason not to use the space to the right. I thought about that, and very well may. I also considered using the non-shelf side for some hanging storage (store bags, soft cooler, aprons, etc.)
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Mar 24, 2016 01:18
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Omne posted:I do not like builder-grade wire shelves, especially those in the pantry. I would like to replace them with wood shelves. The pantry is 48" wide and 24" deep, which is way too deep to be useful, especially at the top and bottom. I'd like to create some L-shaped shelves, but I'm wondering what a good size would be. Should the shelves be 16" deep? 12" deep? 16" or 12" deep can be good, depending on what you're storing in there - and even 6" deep can be good for for some things, like canned foods. Omne posted:I own no power tools at this time (other than a $20 drill), so I'm looking forward to my first project. I thought I could just use a circular saw to cut the shelves, but every video I've seen they're using a table saw. Do I actually need one? I feel like I wouldn't use it as often as a circular saw. My recommendation, if you're willing to spend extra for a tool that will be more useful with other projects down the road, would be the Makita track saw. Off the track, it's a high end circular saw. On the track, you can do very nearly everything you can do with a table saw, and some things you can't (doing it quickly may require the right jig, but the same is true of table saws).
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Mar 24, 2016 19:10
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How hard is it for someone with average DIY skills to replace a privacy fence? My current fence is rotted beyond belief, and it already has a couple sections I've had to jerry-rig with some stakes and 2x4's spanning across the posts. The whole thing (roughly 170' with one gate) has to be torn down and replaced, ideally with PVC fence. I got one quote for it and it seemed VERY high, over $7500. I'd like to think I can DIY it for like half of that or less, and have it done in a couple weekends. It seems like the "trickiest" part is getting the post holes dug perfectly in line and the posts nicely centered and stable w/ concrete. Never really worked with concrete/quikrete that much. I imagine doing all of them with a post-hole digger would take FOREVER, so how tricky to use are those power-augers? And are they typically available to rent from places like HD or Lowe's?
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Mar 25, 2016 15:06
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DrBouvenstein posted:It seems like the "trickiest" part is getting the post holes dug perfectly in line and the posts nicely centered and stable w/ concrete. Never really worked with concrete/quikrete that much. I imagine doing all of them with a post-hole digger would take FOREVER, so how tricky to use are those power-augers? And are they typically available to rent from places like HD or Lowe's? Disclaimer: I've never built a fence myself, just assisted my dad when I was a kid. But you'd use some surveying stakes and string to lay out where the fence goes and make certain you stay on a straight line. Mixing concrete isn't too difficult; just have an appropriately-sized container and about the right ratios of concrete mix and water, then use a shovel or something to mix it around a bit. It's easiest if you mix on-site (like, in a wheelbarrow or something) and then immediately pour it into the hole. We never had a project big enough to require a powered post hole digger, but if they're anything like other power tools I've used, just read the manual and you should be more or less good to go. Nice thing about something like a post hole digger is that you can test it out in some corner of the yard you don't care about, get the feel for the tool, and then start in on the actual holes you want to dig. Make certain the holes are deep enough to provide an adequate foundation for your posts, or else you'll have a leaning fence in no time.
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Mar 25, 2016 15:51
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Easier than mixing, isn't there concrete that you can just dump the dry mix in the hole and then open up a hose on it for a few minutes until it's soaked through?
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Mar 25, 2016 15:58
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DrBouvenstein posted:The whole thing (roughly 170' with one gate) has to be torn down and replaced, ideally with PVC fence. Not to be a buzzkill, and if you do it yourself, godspeed. Rent a laser level if you can find one, it's a huge help.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:21
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Bad Munki posted:Easier than mixing, isn't there concrete that you can just dump the dry mix in the hole and then open up a hose on it for a few minutes until it's soaked through? Yep, most quickcrete. For fence posts there's really no reason to mix ahead of time unless you absolutely need it to set to 99% in 28 days. In fact, you don't even really need to run a hose on it if you're somewhere with reasonable rainfall.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:26
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Bad Munki posted:Easier than mixing, isn't there concrete that you can just dump the dry mix in the hole and then open up a hose on it for a few minutes until it's soaked through? They do, it's the quikrete in the red packaging. Digging post holes can be really easy our loving grueling, it all depends on your soil. I had a guy put up a fence after we moved here, and he dug all the post holes by hand in one day (I don't remember how long it is exactly, but it didn't cost anywhere near $7k). By contrast, I dug four post holes by hand at my old house for a project, and it took me all day due to how rocky the soil was. I'd dig a few inches, then spend 20 minutes getting a big fieldstone out of the way.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:34
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I've never done PVC fence but assuming the posts are at 8' intervals 170' is 21 to 22 posts. As said above it depends on your soil but for anything other than rocks I'd buy a $30 post hole digger and use a string level to keep them in line. Getting the old ones out will be harder work.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:44
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You know those lovely glue-and-sawdust surface-mount medicine cabinets? Well, they last about 7 years. The previous owners of my house did an extremely mediocre job refinishing the bathroom, including a bunch of cheap stuff. The medicine cabinet is literally falling apart in front of my eyes: the shelf surfaces are crumbling, several shelves have collapsed when the pegs ripped through the sides, and two mirrors have fallen off (in separate incidents) when the cheap hinges snapped. Looks like this, but even cheaper because it's white, without the fake woodgrain. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Granville-48-in-W-x-30-in-H-x-4-75-in-D-Surface-Mount-Medicine-Cabinet-in-Honey-Oak-with-6-Bulb-Light-755419X/ My dilemma is, I want to sell the house in the next year or so... so do I want to have one nice thing in my bathroom, surrounded by crap? Or do I just replace it with what is there and call it a day?
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Mar 25, 2016 16:45
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Squashy Nipples posted:My dilemma is, I want to sell the house in the next year or so... so do I want to have one nice thing in my bathroom, surrounded by crap? Or do I just replace it with what is there and call it a day? Remove it, slap a mirror up, call it a day. You don't need to have a medicine cabinet in your bathroom.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Remove it, slap a mirror up, call it a day. You don't need to have a medicine cabinet in your bathroom. You do if you live with a woman.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:51
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Squashy Nipples posted:You do if you live with a woman. Try going to a Habitat for humanity reuse store. They might have a decent one for cheap.
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Mar 25, 2016 17:24
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There is definitely a LOT of rocks in my soil. Northern New England is lousy with rocky soil. Removing the old fence shouldn't be too hard, since I'm 90% sure the previous installer didn't use concrete. Seems very unlikely with how much the fence-posts are leaning. Of course, they also used regular (not pressure-treated) wood, and just one lousy coat of paint from what I can see, no primer, so there might be concrete down there but the posts just rotted off from it. I guess I'll play it by sight. If I can remove the old posts and there isn't any concrete, I imagine I can just re-use the holes if I widen (and possibly deepen) them a bit? Which would mean just a post-hole digger. right?
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Mar 25, 2016 17:47
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DrBouvenstein posted:There is definitely a LOT of rocks in my soil. Northern New England is lousy with rocky soil. For northeast soil, you might want to invest in a spud bar. http://www.amazon.com/69-Inch-Digging-1160000-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000VACVPG
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Mar 26, 2016 05:42
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uwaeve posted:For northeast soil, you might want to invest in a spud bar. Also, if you're a gardener, get a hori hori. Aside from rocks, they're also great for digging holes with lots of roots.
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Mar 27, 2016 00:50
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DrBouvenstein posted:There is definitely a LOT of rocks in my soil. Northern New England is lousy with rocky soil. If you have more than 1 hole to do by hand, rent the auger. If any single hole is more than 24" deep, rent the auger. I installed a fence recently, and I rented an auger. Eight holes, eight poles, eight bags of concrete; level, plumb, square, and in a line to within 1/32" over 30' done in 4 hours. Well worth the days' rental. I got the 24" deep bit, but it had a 12" long shank on it, and I sunk the auger handle-level to the ground (against the manual's directions) so I actually got 30" deep holes out of it. My post-hole digger wouldn't clear the last 6" of very loose dirt/clay/rock/gravel out of the hole, and my arm wouldn't reach. That said, I think it would have been better to use the 36" bit and sink the poles their full depth. I cut off the 6" that I couldn't bury, and my gate posts are not as sturdy as I'd like. The gas-powered auger was a fair beast, and it's not to be trifled with. When it hits something reasonably solid like a rock or a root or a big chunk of soft clay, it will use its considerable torque to throw you out of the way. Lifting that thing and its auger bit from flush with ground level was not fun, and is a big reason why I'd recommend spending the extra couple of bucks on the deeper bit, just so you don't have to manhandle the thing around more than necessary.
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Mar 27, 2016 05:43
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A good rule of thumb is to bury at least 1/3 into the ground and surround with concrete. If you have issues with frost, there is a bell shaped form you can buy to really anchor the post in.
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Mar 27, 2016 08:32
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I have a lamp on a switched outlet, but it has a push button that you press to turn it on (DWR Rich Brilliant White) and has 3 brightness settings. Any ideas on how to make it just turn on when the switch is switched?
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Mar 27, 2016 09:31
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