|
Cherry pickers like that are on craigslist all the time, too. Guys buy them, use them for one project, and they sit in the corner until the wife makes them get rid of it.
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 21:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 18:33 |
|
|
spacetoaster posted:That might work. A 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood does a decent job of supporting them, ask how I know...
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 22:56
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:A 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood does a decent job of supporting them, ask how I know... How do you know... I've found the shop I'm going to get to do the engine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 15:52
|
|
|
Here's what we've got now: There is a hole in the case here. I don't know what caused it, I hope it can be fixed. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 17:55
|
|
|
Might be easier to replace the bellhousing than trying to repair it, unless they're rare as hen's teeth?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 17:58
|
|
|
It looks like the crack continues down out of sight. That bellhousing is probably shot unless it's somehow weldable. I don't know what it's made of though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 18:08
|
|
|
Godholio posted:It looks like the crack continues down out of sight. That bellhousing is probably shot unless it's somehow weldable. I don't know what it's made of though. Does anyone here know where I can get a diagram of the GPW frame? My frame guy is wanting to know exact measurements for bumper placement and such.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 18:30
|
|
|
I googled "GPW Jeep service manual" and this was the top few results: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B55CZRk-1XxzOTE3M2RkOTEtODc3ZC00ZTZkLTg5YTYtMzNiOGZhYmY3ZGZi/edit?ddrp=1 It may not have exactly what you're looking for but it looks like a ton of good info. Similar searches may yield something with the measurements you're looking for.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 22:18
|
|
|
If the top has been off that transmission for as long as the jeep has been immobile, you probably need a new transmission as well anyways. That isn't looking good. Make sure the hole in the bellhousing isn't factory (could be for a clutch lever or something maybe? but I doubt it) but that also looks bad and probably is not worth saving.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 23:51
|
|
|
kastein posted:If the top has been off that transmission for as long as the jeep has been immobile, you probably need a new transmission as well anyways. That isn't looking good. I'm anxious to get it out and see. It looks very greasy and grimy, but all the levers move and seem to lock securely in place. Perhaps I'll do it Saturday. Edit: What do you think it's destroyed? I honestly don't know much about this stuff, but the internal gears are all still shiny (after you wipe the grease off) and I can shift the gears and turn the drive shaft. All the internal gears spin easily. spacetoaster fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 00:01
|
|
|
I assumed it was full of water. Maybe there's a chance it's not too horrible in there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 01:48
|
|
|
Godholio posted:I assumed it was full of water. Maybe there's a chance it's not too horrible in there. It's full of some horrible kind of viscus goop that I can only assume is old transmission fluid?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 01:54
|
|
|
I was assuming it was full of dirt and rust based on the top being off and the condition of the body - if all the parts clean up nicely, I am wrong and all it probably needs is a reseal, regasket, and maybe some new bearings.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 09:10
|
|
|
kastein posted:I was assuming it was full of dirt and rust based on the top being off and the condition of the body - if all the parts clean up nicely, I am wrong and all it probably needs is a reseal, regasket, and maybe some new bearings. Yeah, I don't know how it escaped destruction. I'm guessing it was all sealed up until after my grandfather put it in the shed. I'll post some detail shots of it today.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2015 13:27
|
|
|
Got the starter off. Here's the transmission.  I'm still trying to work out how to remove the transmission. The videos I'm finding on youtube are all "Let's get this transmission off so we can work on it." followed by a cut and the transmission laying on their work bench.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 03:34
|
|
|
The important thing is to think like the people who would have serviced the vehicle in the first place. If you have a German friend, get them to fire their family Luger over your head once every five to seven minutes while swearing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 04:09
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:If you have a German friend, get them to fire their family Luger over your head once every five to seven minutes while swearing. No, but I think I can find some Italians.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 04:24
|
|
|
Won't work, they'll alternate between helping and hurting you as the project unfolds.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 04:31
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:The important thing is to think like the people who would have serviced the vehicle in the first place. More like find some dozen single women with little factory experience to each learn a very small amount of the disassembly process from watching a ww2 era instructional reel and then set them at it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 16:11
|
|
|
Godholio posted:It looks like the crack continues down out of sight. That bellhousing is probably shot unless it's somehow weldable. I don't know what it's made of though. The mechanic looked at it today. The crack does extend, but he says it's no problem because it's just steel and can be welded.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 17:30
|
|
|
Looks like cast iron to me (I doubt anyone would cast a bellhousing from steel...), but could be cast steel I guess. Either way, cast iron can be brazed easily enough and cast steel can be MIG welded with very little prep. e: Those gears in the transmission look pretty chewed up, at least what appears to be the reverse slider, but fortunately I bet every single part of that is available brand new if needed. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Aug 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 19:59
|
|
|
kastein posted:e: Those gears in the transmission look pretty chewed up, at least what appears to be the reverse slider, but fortunately I bet every single part of that is available brand new if needed. They might be, it was treated pretty bad over the years. You're right. There are entire rebuild kits out there that I'm looking at.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 22:06
|
|
|
spacetoaster posted:They might be, it was treated pretty bad over the years. I think you picked one of the best ones to do a rebuild on, it looks pretty drat simple. Really this whole project is awesome. Jeeps are easy projects just because of the sheer parts and community support.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 22:51
|
|
|
Ok! It's too much freaking work to remove the transmission and the engine in the backyard! I'm putting the wheels BACK ON and rolling it back onto my driveway. I guess that'll be fine because everything but the axles is getting sent off to various shops anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 18:21
|
|
|
OK. It's been forever and I fell off the work wagon and got busy with my kids, work, whatever. Excuses aside. I'm back to posting updates. I'm still waiting to get the engine rebuilt. The shop I'm going with is very busy, but very good. I'm not some dude with a sports car and a stack of cash so I have to wait. A long time apparently. While waiting, I've started on whatever else I have laying around. Here is the rear axle differential:  It looked, and SMELLED, like a freaking garbage pit. Here it is after lot's of cleaning:  This was a lot more work, and time, than I would ever have thought. But it looks good now. Here's the inside of the cover:  I think it's pretty cool that Ford stamped their little cursive F on everything.  Even some of the bolts and pins had that F on them. Here it is after a complete cleaning, and I primed the cover too.  Next up will be cleaning, and priming, the rest of the housing and axle. I've got to remove the drums and do brake work as well. And that will wrap up the rear axle.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 00:29
|
|
|
Old diff oil is the worst smelling automotive fluid.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 03:47
|
|
|
You Am I posted:Old diff oil is the worst smelling automotive fluid. I had no idea. It hit me in the face like a physical thing. And there was "stuff" in it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 03:58
|
|
|
When my dad tells stories of driving jeeps in Vietnam, he always tells me when you got into a Ford jeep, you needed an extra differential because it was going to blow on you. Now mind you, I've never questioned how the hell they swapped that out in the field and whether or not that was the source of the constant grenading.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 04:05
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:When my dad tells stories of driving jeeps in Vietnam, he always tells me when you got into a Ford jeep, you needed an extra differential because it was going to blow on you. Now mind you, I've never questioned how the hell they swapped that out in the field and whether or not that was the source of the constant grenading. More likely that was the fault of the Vietnamese 
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 04:33
|
|
|
My next step with the rear axle is to remove, and clean up, the brake drums. Using a wire brush attachment on my power drill I managed to get enough of the caked on red-mud off the axle to give me a heavy coat of it. Both axle shafts have been removed, cleaned, and the caps painted with grey primer (my hands were too filthy at the time to take a photo). They don't look very worn at all to me. I'm stuck right now because I don't have the tool to remove that huge nut (there's two on each side) that will let me remove the bearings and the drum. My neighbor has it, but I can't get it til Easter is over.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2016 23:42
|
|
|
Looks suspiciously like the 2" nut Land Rover axles have. The good news is thay're normally not that tight, their primary purpose is to preload/lock the bearings in place.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2016 00:14
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Looks suspiciously like the 2" nut Land Rover axles have. Just tried a 2". This thing is bigger than that socket. Unfortunately, that was the biggest socket in the set. I'll make the rounds on my neighbors shops next week.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2016 01:58
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:When my dad tells stories of driving jeeps in Vietnam, he always tells me when you got into a Ford jeep, you needed an extra differential because it was going to blow on you. Now mind you, I've never questioned how the hell they swapped that out in the field and whether or not that was the source of the constant grenading. Well did he mean an actual Ford jeep like a GPW left over from ww2 or a ford manf. M151 "mutt" with an independent rear axle? That could be easier.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2016 03:36
|
|
|
If you open the drums, wear a ventilator and wet everything down with a poo poo ton of brake clean to keep dust down. Its quite possible there is still some asbestos in them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2016 04:22
|
|
|
Ok, I picked up the willys socket for that nut for 12 bucks. Worked like a charm. The drums are now off.   The bearings and seals are pitted and just in poor condition. I'm headed to the auto store to snag new ones.  The bearings/seals are new (as in not 1944), so I'm guessing my grandfather replaced them at some point. But the seals went bad and water got in there. Hoping to get the drums cleaned up, primed, install the new bearings and press the new seals in today. Then, it'll be time to do brake stuff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 16:35
|
|
|
You may be a self-abuser but I respect what you're doing here. Those drums 
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 19:31
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:You may be a self-abuser but I respect what you're doing here. Sprayed brake cleaner on it, followed by pressure washer. They look pretty good now. Unfortunately the bearings and seals have to be special ordered. So I'll have to do that another day. Does anyone know if I paint the inside of those drums? Not the braking surface, but the other stuff? Do I just leave the inside all bare metal?
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 19:41
|
|
|
Clean it up and leave it alone is the easy way - cleaning it up and painting it will just make it easier for the next time. Do you want to have a dirty little secret that only you know about? Paint a boob inside that thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 19:55
|
|
|
Wow, that looks like a hell of a lot of work you have lined up, but it should be fun. BTW - rather than using a wire wheel in your hand drill, go to Harbor Freight and get a few packs of 4.5" knotted wire wheels for a 4.5" angle grinder, then get a decent quality 4.5" angle grinder. Rust and paint practically evaporates under them instead of taking actual effort like a drill+wire wheel does. Keep your tender bits that you want in their OEM configuration (fingers, face, giblets) out of the plane of the wire wheel and wear safety goggles, heavy duty pants/shirt, and welding gloves plus maybe a respirator though. There's no telling what's in that paint and those drums are almost certainly asbestos. And wire wheels on angle grinders like to throw wires - if you're wearing heavy jeans they'll stick in the denim and maybe prod you hard, but if you're wearing shorts, they'll actually stab 1/8" into your leg if they happen to hit you right. It's still worth the extra suiting up required vs a drill, simply because it does a much better job of cleaning in a tenth the time+effort.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 20:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 18:33 |
|
|
kastein posted:Wow, that looks like a hell of a lot of work you have lined up, but it should be fun. Seconding this. I did the drill and wire brush cup like a sucker for a while until I picked up an HF grinder. Holy poo poo what a difference. Absolutely cover any skin you don't want perforated, though. I was fine with jeans and a thick sweatshirt, but I'm still finding wires in my garage. If you've got an HF nearby, drop the 25-30 bucks on a grinder and wheels and go nuts. Edit: If you do this, do yourself a favor and pick up some earplugs, too. Wires slamming into metal at ~10k rpm for long periods of time can get kinda loud and irritating.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 20:18
|
|
