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Fyrbrand posted:Yellow = the worst Love these frogs. 
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Mar 25, 2016 20:55
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I'll probably make a scenic base for them, but not a full diorama.
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Mar 26, 2016 04:32
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Ilor posted:I've always loved the aesthetic of the Dystopian Wars figs, but never got into the game. Is it any good? It's dece- oh hey a new shiny game idea, let's push everything aside and develop that instead. I'll finish this post sometime next year. Maybe.
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Mar 26, 2016 04:46
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Ilor posted:I've always loved the aesthetic of the Dystopian Wars figs, but never got into the game. Is it any good? I played Firestorm Armada, a similar game by the same company, and it's fun but not very deep. It's a buckets of dice/exploding 6s game.
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Mar 26, 2016 06:54
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Fyrbrand posted:Yellow = the worst I don't envy the work put in to make those look that good, but I do envy having yellow minis that pretty.
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Mar 26, 2016 07:04
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Megaspam posted:I bought a Vampire Counts Warhammer army on eBay a couple years back. It came with the Necromancer and the Vampire Countess. If I remember, they match the scale of GW's 28mm models pretty well. I can take a picture next to some skeletons or something for scale if it'll help. Thanks for the offer but I've taken a punt and ordered the Vampire Countess Kit anyway. It's a nice looking model even if it doesn't fit in and it's not that I'll actually end up playing with the models anyway it's more that I've just always liked the idea of painting up some Undead but didn't want to give GW any money. Speaking of which I managed to get some white primer so I've got a whole bunch of skellies drying at the moment and I'm not sure what colours I should do the rags/shields. I'm been painting a lot of red, black and blue models recently so I'm thinking of purple and yellow but I'm not sure if I could make it work, anyone got any colour scheme suggestions? I ask because the last times I asked the thread for colour schemes over the years I ended up with really cool alternatives such as the bone Dark Eldar and ceramic Necrons.
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Mar 26, 2016 15:51
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If maybe avoid yellow as too close to the bones of the skeletons but purple would look great.
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Mar 26, 2016 17:30
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JoshTheStampede posted:If maybe avoid yellow as too close to the bones of the skeletons but purple would look great. Yeah the yellow would be pretty close to the beige. I'm thinking that a secondary accent colour might be needed for patterning the shields (purple + x checkerboard type pattern), feathers and the occasional rag in order to avoid making them too flat. I was toying with tartan on the cloth but then I remembered painting the Caledonian volunteer model and I don't quite hate myself enough to do that over a horde. The only colours I can see working with purple and not murdering the bone colour would be a deep yellow, orange or a pale turquoise.
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Mar 26, 2016 17:52
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I'd love to see some smelliest based on harryhausens skeletons- they each had different patterns/colours but worked because they were goddamn skeletons. purp/yellow orange/black just go nuts (of course, this won't help with trying to get through the skellies quickly)
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Mar 26, 2016 18:31
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 Xpost from Oath thread. Probably the mini I'm most pleased with thus far in my wangs-painting; I'm particularly pleased from a technical perspective with the heat staining on the engine.
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Mar 26, 2016 18:36
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Dr. Phildo posted:I'd love to see some smelliest based on harryhausens skeletons- they each had different patterns/colours but worked because they were goddamn skeletons. purp/yellow orange/black just go nuts (of course, this won't help with trying to get through the skellies quickly) Jason and the Argonauts is probably the reason I have such a nerd boner for sword and shield wielding skeletons. That and the original Clash of the Titans have been pretty much a yearly Easter viewing (as I'm typing this I just realised Jason's probably on TV now).
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Mar 26, 2016 18:49
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richyp posted:Yeah the yellow would be pretty close to the beige. I'm thinking that a secondary accent colour might be needed for patterning the shields (purple + x checkerboard type pattern), feathers and the occasional rag in order to avoid making them too flat. I was toying with tartan on the cloth but then I remembered painting the Caledonian volunteer model and I don't quite hate myself enough to do that over a horde. A dark wood brown would be fine, too. But also pale turquoise is classic Egyptian so that works.
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Mar 26, 2016 19:58
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JoshTheStampede posted:A dark wood brown would be fine, too. But also pale turquoise is classic Egyptian so that works. Thanks for the tip  I'm probably doing the bases will be brown so I'll give the Turquoise a go and see how it looks across 3-4 models.
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Mar 26, 2016 20:16
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Cross post from the oath thread. Starting to wonder what I should be focusing on to start taking my painting to the next level. Got my speed up considerably this past year. I know I can get better blends by spending more time with my layering and more steps between the start and final colors, but thats more of a patience thing. Where to go with skills to improve is the bigger question right now I think.     
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Mar 26, 2016 23:16
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What's better than Vikings? Orc Vikings!  
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Mar 27, 2016 02:49
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I got my first not cheapo brush and now I think I might have got a bad brush? Its a Winsor and Newton Series 7 size 0 and I cant keep it from doing this  Anything I can do or should I go get another one? Also I painted my first flesh-tone face today and was pretty happy with how it turned out. Its for a custom action figure Im about to finish. Lots of room to improve but it wast the nightmare I thought it was going to be! 
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Mar 27, 2016 05:11
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Did you wash it with hot water? That will melt the glue.
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Mar 27, 2016 05:27
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Finished up all 5 of whatever ships these are. Japanese boarding vessels I think?  
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Mar 27, 2016 06:43
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Cross posting seom 6mm goodness from the oath thread!Grey Hunter posted:Oath Complete!
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Mar 27, 2016 07:45
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Is there a non-expensive variant of Lahmian Medium?
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Mar 27, 2016 12:42
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DJ Dizzy posted:Is there a non-expensive variant of Lahmian Medium? I've been using this stuff for years http://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Matt-Medium/dp/B0027ISZH8 Pretty much any art store will carry matte and glaze mediums in bottles that are 10x the size and half the price.
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Mar 27, 2016 12:57
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DJ Dizzy posted:Is there a non-expensive variant of Lahmian Medium? Afaik it's just matte medium. Any halfway-decent art store should have giant bottles of the stuff for sale, from a range of manufacturers. I see the Liquitex brand mentioned here quite a bit - I think that's a popular variety of goop. I've had the same tub of W&N Galeria stuff for years and it certainly seems to do the job.
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Mar 27, 2016 12:58
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Just realised I hadn't added this here:Zark the Damned posted:
I'm really happy with how the giant turned out, especially the face. Possibly went ott on the washes trying to make his jacket faded and dirty, It toned down the shine on the dragon a bit much. I may go back and retouch it. Also I just realised the tail's snapped off the pelt on his wrist, gotta fix that  Also am happy with the purple shading on Gelt and his buddies, thanks for the tip richyp! (I just wish I could find that post)
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Mar 27, 2016 15:47
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richyp posted:The only colours I can see working with purple and not murdering the bone colour would be a deep yellow, orange or a pale turquoise. Purple looked odd, orange meh.. Turquoise looks pretty good and its a nice and quick, in fact the longest part was the metal and the wash pretty much killed all the visible rust.  Fastest bone colour ever thanks to inktense chestnut and flow enhancer Prime White, Wash with stupidly heavy watered down chestnut (about 10:1) Casually apply thinned white over edges and flat areas. I've got another 4 of these guys up to the last highlight stage over the last hour starting from white. I ran out of time finishing this guy off to see the end result though so the others will have to wait until I get some time tomorrow/Tuesday.
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Mar 27, 2016 16:19
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One day I will learn to thin my paints more than I do now. One day.
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Mar 27, 2016 16:21
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I've found that with Citadel paint I need to thin less than with other paints. .. I really like Citadel paint except for the price and the pots and basically everything other than the paint itself 
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Mar 27, 2016 16:35
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citadel paints in dropper bottles would be my christmas wish.
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Mar 27, 2016 16:53
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indigoe posted:Here is my third mini. I had some problem with the paint not sticking on the edge of the dress on the back, and I think the contrast can be pushed on the blade. Overall I'm happy how it turned out and it's good to see improvement compared to the first two This is seriously goddamn fantastic for a third miniature. I've been painting for a decade and most of mine don't turn out that well.
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Mar 27, 2016 16:56
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Geisladisk posted:This is seriously goddamn fantastic for a third miniature. I've been painting for a decade and most of mine don't turn out that well. I was thinking "that's pretty decent" until I saw that he bothered to do blending on the sword. Very nice
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Mar 27, 2016 17:01
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DJ Dizzy posted:Is there a non-expensive variant of Lahmian Medium? Others have answered and they are not wrong. However, I still use Lahmian because I hadn't found another brand that is clear when wet, because I dislike the brands that are white and make color mixing difficult. It also smells nice and I know it will work well with Citadel washes since it's the same base.
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Mar 27, 2016 18:35
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signalnoise posted:.. I really like Citadel paint except for the price and the pots and basically everything other than the paint itself If you actually want to branch out, that's why I made this list: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381
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Mar 27, 2016 18:41
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Avenging Dentist posted:If you actually want to branch out, that's why I made this list: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 Nah I've tried a bunch o' brands. I am finding Citadel to be the best fit for me due to the color system and the qualities of the paint itself. Just annoying
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Mar 27, 2016 18:43
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Avenging Dentist posted:If you actually want to branch out, that's why I made this list: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 Scale 75's Inktense Chestnut definitely needs adding to this list, its like a less a glossy version of GW's old Chestnut ink and can be used as a good wood grain wash, or sepia when thinned to oblivion. signalnoise posted:Nah I've tried a bunch o' brands. I am finding Citadel to be the best fit for me due to the color system and the qualities of the paint itself. Just annoying Interesting, genuinely curious about the properties of Citadel you prefer. For me they make nice metallic paints and washes but pretty much every other brand I've found myself totally skipping the pots of citadel paint in favour of pretty much what ever else I have in front of me. I find them too thick to work with and when thinned not as effective pigmented as VMC, VGC or my recent Scale 75 additions.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:38
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richyp posted:Scale 75's Inktense Chestnut definitely needs adding to this list, its like a less a glossy version of GW's old Chestnut ink and can be used as a good wood grain wash, or sepia when thinned to oblivion. Updated. I've debated whether I should use inks or not; a part of me would rather just use paint for everything and thin it as needed.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:45
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I don't remember this part of the movie.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:46
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Have you guys got any good advice with regards to painting marble on bases? I can remember someone doing all the Primarchs a while back and the base on Horus and Gulliman looked ace.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:46
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richyp posted:I find them too thick to work with and when thinned not as effective pigmented as VMC, VGC or my recent Scale 75 additions. For whatever reason my citadel paints seem to shrink like a urethane paint against the surface of whatever model I'm painting, thinned only slightly.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:54
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Avenging Dentist posted:Updated. I've debated whether I should use inks or not; a part of me would rather just use paint for everything and thin it as needed. For me it's situational. Over white and grey primers inks and washes are great for speeding everything up. Painting 20 skeletons in bleached bone by hand vs washing a white primed mini in brown/sepia is no contest. And for black I've found it much easier to paint grey and highlight with lighter greys followed by a wash of dark blue (Drakenhof works better than blue ink here) much easier for a quick solution than doing black to grey/blue. It helps that you can repeatedly reapply the ink wash to darken certain areas more and more without the need to mix up a darker paint (or lighter if you're working in reverse). The added advantage of giving you a base colour and a free shade in one pass is a nice bonus if you're batch painting, though this works for thinned paints over white/grey primer too. Also the  INKTENSE inks are way less glossy than the old GW inks, thinned they're closer to washes and thinned with a drop of medium takes the sheen out even more, so I'm finding them a really nice addition to my palette.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:54
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I can definitely see the merit in using inks/washes for speed, but I'm only going to do skirmish-sized forces, and try to avoid batch painting (doing Space Marines in the past has made batch painting permanently unappealing to me). I'm more interested in whether I can get prettier results with inks vs paints.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:56
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Avenging Dentist posted:I can definitely see the merit in using inks/washes for speed, but I'm only going to do skirmish-sized forces, and try to avoid batch painting (doing Space Marines in the past has made batch painting permanently unappealing to me). I'm more interested in whether I can get prettier results with inks vs paints. I'm mostly painting one off Infinity dudes for the same reason (seriously gently caress space marines) but I still find myself reaching for the black ink, blue washes for the actual black areas and for edge lining.  Not one of those guys uses any black paint. All the black is Dark grey highlighted to light grey washed with a dark blue + black ink with an additional highlight. All the black lines are just dark blue ink run into the edges as I find it flows better than paint. The best example is the 5th guy who was painted in VMC grey blue and washed in blue+black ink and the 3 red Alguaciles (4th, 6th and 7th models) who had the same colour applied to the vertical and horizontal lines on the red. The same colour was also used as a quick shade in the creases on the actual red too just thinned more. Every single weapon is grey washed with blue and black ink too
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Mar 27, 2016 20:07
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