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So much stuff on my painting table: Finishing up the squad of cadians first, then it's off to the races with the mordians. Guess i'll slog through the skitarii sometime after.
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Mar 27, 2016 20:50
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richyp posted:All the black lines are just dark blue ink run into the edges as I find it flows better than paint. Mostly, I'm debating whether I want to just learn how to make paint flow well or not. My understanding is that ink doesn't seal quite as well, and there's an attractive simplicity to using the same paints for everything (and just adjusting the consistency as needed for the current situation). I should probably just paint some guys and see how I feel about it; that's why I have a half-dozen Reaper test minis!
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Mar 27, 2016 22:34
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Avenging Dentist posted:Mostly, I'm debating whether I want to just learn how to make paint flow well or not. My understanding is that ink doesn't seal quite as well, and there's an attractive simplicity to using the same paints for everything (and just adjusting the consistency as needed for the current situation). I should probably just paint some guys and see how I feel about it; that's why I have a half-dozen Reaper test minis! If you're worried about inks, just hit the model with matte varnish before going over it with gloss. This works fine with ghost tint paints and Didi's Magic Ink, so it should work just fine with other inks.
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Mar 28, 2016 00:28
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Sooooo I did my test minotaur up using the Duncan Rhodes method, and that looked good on flesh. Basecoat, shade, highlight, highlight. So that's neat, I can paint draped cloth, flesh, that kind of poo poo. I have no loving clue how to paint sci-fi armor. How do I sci-fi? This kind of thing:  There are so many little edges and I can't hit them without getting paint on panels.
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Mar 28, 2016 00:37
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I am going to paint Salamanders while I watch the BBC Television production of Macbeth for school. What can I do to make this situation more British?
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Mar 28, 2016 02:45
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Tea and Hobnobs?
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Mar 28, 2016 03:09
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Casual Racism. And complain about the weather.
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Mar 28, 2016 03:16
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SteelMentor posted:Casual Racism. I thought that was New England.
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Mar 28, 2016 03:38
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So since my Skaven weapon teams are on 50mm x 50mm bases in Kings of War, I tried to come up with a clever way to switch between KoW and 8th/9th/etc without having to do a bunch of re-basing. Came up with this idea, made and cast some 50mm size bases that I can slide and lock the standard warhammer cavalry sized bases into, then pull 'em apart if I want them back to the normal size. They're a little rough but work pretty well, I think, and they stay nice and secure. 
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Mar 28, 2016 04:59
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PantsOptional posted:I thought that was New England. They get it honest.
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Mar 28, 2016 05:10
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Vermintide posted:So since my Skaven weapon teams are on 50mm x 50mm bases in Kings of War, I tried to come up with a clever way to switch between KoW and 8th/9th/etc without having to do a bunch of re-basing. Came up with this idea, made and cast some 50mm size bases that I can slide and lock the standard warhammer cavalry sized bases into, then pull 'em apart if I want them back to the normal size. They're a little rough but work pretty well, I think, and they stay nice and secure. WhiteOutMouse did the same thing for his Flesh Hounds in 40k. They went from cav bases to 50mm rounds. Works great.
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Mar 28, 2016 05:33
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I'm having a lot of trouble with Citadel's Troll Slayer Orange. I can't seem to get an even coat, no matter the water dilution I use. Does matte medium or Flo aid make this better.
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Mar 28, 2016 10:38
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SERPUS posted:I'm having a lot of trouble with Citadel's Troll Slayer Orange. I can't seem to get an even coat, no matter the water dilution I use. Does matte medium or Flo aid make this better. I found adding a bit of ratskin flesh to any orange makes the color more even. Maybe Jokaero Orange as well? Granted it does change the color a bit... it really depends on your undercoat.
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Mar 28, 2016 12:01
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This kinda counts as painting i guess and i don't think there's a more appropriate thread. I made a custom set of token for Dropzone Commander. I had previously been using old AT-43 token and while i like their style they're not an exact fit for the effects you need. These are all made from acrylic glass, spraypainted from the back. First the colour designs, then a layer of white to make the colours pop and then a thick layer of black. Cutting and milling were done with a Zünd CNC mill My army generally has yellow markings and a white registration number so i matched those colours for the tokens. The only exception is fleet assets like the fighter in the top right of the last picture which have teal markings so tokens relating to them match that. Activation markers are triangular, status effects are square and mission objectives are hexagons. The big army logo is purely for vanity reasons and doesn't have an in-game use. Peeling design elements from the masking film  All the colours are spreayed except white  Masking film removed  Black backing layer  The whole sheet after milling  Tokens in a box  Army comparison and effects 
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Mar 28, 2016 12:37
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Bistromatic posted:This kinda counts as painting i guess and i don't think there's a more appropriate thread. I love them, quoting the whole thing so I don't lose it for when I'm doing mine  And stencil-spraying them in the reverse order onto the back is genius.
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Mar 28, 2016 13:43
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signalnoise posted:For whatever reason my citadel paints seem to shrink like a urethane paint against the surface of whatever model I'm painting, thinned only slightly. It might be your primer. I have issues with primer that is too smooth, and the paint had nothing to grab onto. Try laying down a quick Dullcote layer before starting your base layer. Bistromatic posted:Army comparison and effects
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Mar 28, 2016 13:47
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berzerkmonkey posted:It might be your primer. I have issues with primer that is too smooth, and the paint had nothing to grab onto. Try laying down a quick Dullcote layer before starting your base layer. No no, you misunderstand. This is a GOOD thing!
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Mar 28, 2016 14:35
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Look what was waiting for me on my desk at work when I got in today: A 1979 book on painting fantasy miniatures! It actually seems to have some good advice in it, better than I would have expected and I know child and teenage me in the 1980s would have done a much better job if I had a book like this pre-internet days. It even teaches you that dry brushing terrifies trees! 
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Mar 28, 2016 17:04
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That's really neat! I feel like it might lose something by being in black and white though.
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Mar 28, 2016 17:56
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I wonder if it adds something, actually. Instead of just taking pictures of steps, notice on that tree how its differentiating steps by placement and direction of the lines. In some ways that makes things more clear. Whole book is like that.
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Mar 28, 2016 17:59
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Does anyone have any tips on making small ghostly wisps of spirit/smoke out of greenstuff? Also, if I am painting something like a wisp of spirit/smoke and I want to make it look ghostly, what colors should I use to give it that effect? I was thinking starting with a blue-gray and working up to white, but I am not sure. The effect I am going for is damaged power armor with wisps of spirit around the edges of the holes. Kind of like smoke, but I want it to be ghostlike.
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Mar 28, 2016 18:03
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nesbit37 posted:I wonder if it adds something, actually. Instead of just taking pictures of steps, notice on that tree how its differentiating steps by placement and direction of the lines. In some ways that makes things more clear. Whole book is like that. Yeah, I loved reading the CMON articles that used similar diagrams. The problem with taking pictures is that depending on lighting at that instant, it usually doesn't show the effect very well. Especially since everyone seems to work with a close, direct light and aren't going to go out of their way to put it in a light box that has the same ambient lighting every time. There's also the old problem of good blends not showing up at all under direct light.
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Mar 28, 2016 18:06
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signalnoise posted:Sooooo You can try a sort of reverse edging; choose a uniform color and prime it that, give it a coat of wash with like nuln oil or your preferred ink and then on the larger, flatter panels with the original color blending lighter as you get to the edge. Also with models that hug their guns that tight it's perfectly fine to paint the arms and fun separately.
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Mar 28, 2016 18:36
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Painted some more of the big monsters from BloodRage and got access to a camera that can actually take close up pictures.    
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Mar 28, 2016 18:43
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Macdeo Lurjtux posted:You can try a sort of reverse edging; choose a uniform color and prime it that, give it a coat of wash with like nuln oil or your preferred ink and then on the larger, flatter panels with the original color blending lighter as you get to the edge. Also with models that hug their guns that tight it's perfectly fine to paint the arms and fun separately. I'm sure on other models that's fine, these are a nightmare to fit together. In any case, I'll give that a shot. What was the consensus on what to do with used Simple Green/Purple Power? Cat litter?
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Mar 28, 2016 22:03
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Chance II posted:Painted some more of the big monsters from BloodRage and got access to a camera that can actually take close up pictures. I love those sculpts so much. Do you know if they plan on selling them as standalone figures?
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Mar 28, 2016 22:12
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I haven't heard anything about since it was released. It would be cool though. A lot of the models would make cool Frostgrave units.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:05
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The whole thing is only $75 on Amazon and comes with a butt-ton of other minis and a good game to go along with it, so there's no real reason not to just buy the box.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:07
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Wow, that's $72 CDN at meeplemart for a damaged box. Are the minis the Wrath of Kings material that got discussed in the DZ:I kickstarter comments, or something else? Like 'better than bones and PP restic, worse than HIPS'?
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Mar 28, 2016 23:09
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I don't have any WoK, but that's what I've heard. They're a bit floppy but nowhere near as bad as Bones.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:17
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Spiderdrake posted:Wow, that's $72 CDN at meeplemart for a damaged box. Are the minis the Wrath of Kings material that got discussed in the DZ:I kickstarter comments, or something else? Like 'better than bones and PP restic, worse than HIPS'? Yes on your last question. Pretty nice, and the mold lines aren't bad, but are a bit of work to take off. Honestly half of mold line removal is placement of the parts. EDIT: They aren't floppy at all, though the Wraith of Kings models have HIPS for the weapons to reduce the odds of that. Great, GREAT combo.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:28
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Content edit: I loving hate photos signalnoise fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 01:33
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Can someone let me know decent ratio for vallejo glaze medium to vmc and citadel paints. I tried 50/50 but it wasnt very glazey.
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Mar 29, 2016 11:45
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There's a pretty good guide for glazes here: http://youngwolf7.com/?page_id=1448 The guy uses 1:12 paint to medium for his favorite mix, so you need a lot more medium.
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Mar 29, 2016 12:26
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Spiderdrake posted:Wow, that's $72 CDN at meeplemart for a damaged box. Are the minis the Wrath of Kings material that got discussed in the DZ:I kickstarter comments, or something else? Like 'better than bones and PP restic, worse than HIPS'? The Wrath of Kings stuff is a touch softer than GW, but nowhere near Bones. The only complaints I have regarding WoK material is that some of the parts are incredibly thin and have a tendency to get bent. For instance, I've got a Deepman with a sword that I accidentally poked into something, and now it has a slight angle. It's certainly nothing to cause any concern though. LordAba posted:EDIT: They aren't floppy at all, though the Wraith of Kings models have HIPS for the weapons to reduce the odds of that. Great, GREAT combo.
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Mar 29, 2016 13:26
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lemonadesweetheart posted:Can someone let me know decent ratio for vallejo glaze medium to vmc and citadel paints. I tried 50/50 but it wasnt very glazey. It's the same scenario as how much water should you use to thin paint, i.e. it depends on the brand, age, consistency etc... of the paint. Then factor in how translucent you want the glaze to be, when I'm glazing I'll keep adding medium to the thinned paint and then paint it over existing paint on my palette until I get the desired level of tinting. It's pretty much always different ratios especially as I already have medium added to my water pot in addition to dropping it on to the palette on average though: 1:1 is pretty much just thinned paint that will dry slightly slower. 1:5-8 is good for darkening an existing colour without totally covering the underlying colour. 1:8-12 is a 50% transparent wash that stays put. If you've ever used any of VMC's transparent colours it's more or less the same 1:15+ is slightly tinted water great for subtle shadows in cheeks and eye sockets etc.. There's a range of 5-8/8-12 etc.. that I pulled out of my arse as every paint is different but if you aim for those values and tweak with more medium as necessary you'll get a feel for what works best for you.
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Mar 29, 2016 13:39
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Double post. Finished off the first rank of Skeleton Warriors but have no idea where my camera's disappeared to, in a toy box somewhere I suspect. So have a nice yellow tinted Camera Phone shot. EDIT: Couldn't find my new camera but I managed to fix up my trusty SLR that's been broken for a couple of years thanks to a snapped pin. Much better shot now: 
richyp fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 16:01
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The Wrath of Kings weapons, the ones that come on sprues, are actually ABS, not restic or HIPS. It's not as detailed a process, so that's why it's usually only for swords and other long straight weapons. IIRC, the Deepmen don't have any ABS, but the Kaxes and Carcharodon weapons are.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:37
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This guy! I picked him up on clearance from CMON while buying some bases. Since it wasn't very expensive I didn't feel obligated to do a super technical job with really crisp blends. Since it's more artsy, I wanted a much looser painterly feel to it, so it was done entirely with wet blends. I also really wanted to do purple and green partly for the challenge and partly for the spring theme in the oath thread. I did strip it half way through as I was planning on doing multi directional lighting, but that ended in disaster. On the whole, pretty satisfied.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:53
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I totally have looked at that model in the clearance section many a time. Glad someone pulled the trigger on it.
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Mar 30, 2016 03:01
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