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My tubeless tyre has come partially off the front rim! What are my options? Can I pop this back in place by hand or is it going to have to go into the bike hospital?
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Mar 29, 2016 22:29
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How is that even possible?
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Mar 29, 2016 22:57
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Yoshimo posted:My tubeless tyre has come partially off the front rim! What are my options? Can I pop this back in place by hand or is it going to have to go into the bike hospital? Something broke the bead, did you hit a curb? Are they the correct size tires for the rims? Personally I wouldn't trust that tire (or rim, possibly) and replace it.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:21
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I've seen this cool trick where a dude pops it back on by setting off some propane in there, you should totally try that *farts*
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Mar 29, 2016 23:24
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Drove it around while the pressure was way low? If you can get it to an air pump you might be able to just fill it back up and it'll reseat itself. But it might not. Might need to lube it up or take out the valve stem core or who knows what to get it to seat. And as was said, the tire may be bad anyway.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:28
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~*~**~
-Inu- fucked around with this message at 21:34 on May 22, 2017 |
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Mar 30, 2016 01:23
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-Inu- posted:Do any of you guys have experience with fiberglass repair? I need to fix the bodywork on my bike, but it's 800 miles away and I don't want to subject my friend to a fiberglass clusterfuck. Is paying someone to make and attach a new piece something that's realistic cost-wise? Or should I get measurements, craft a piece, and just ship it down? I'd really rather not drop $600 on new bodywork if I can help it. Looks like you may have had a little too much fun, asshat.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:38
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ninmeister posted:Looks like you may have had a little too much fun, asshat. Wow, look at you, showing that guy what for. He was at a trackday, you fuckwagon. Inu, try seeing if any td forums have a crappy chinese upper for sale, and maybe cannibalize it?
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Mar 30, 2016 01:46
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M42 posted:Wow, look at you, showing that guy what for. Apparently you missed the subtle joke, referring to the piece of tape on the gas tank.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:47
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Haha, you're right - but the other day I saw a guy absolutely flip when someone posted a pic of their trashed trackbike, apparently interpreting it as someone "wheelieing" and doing "hooligan biker poo poo" and deserved what they got. Used almost the same phrase.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:50
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I'm just blown away that any of that bodywork actually was fiberglass. I thought every manufacturer, oem or aftermarket, used plastic.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:03
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-Inu- posted:Do any of you guys have experience with fiberglass repair? I need to fix the bodywork on my bike, but it's 800 miles away and I don't want to subject my friend to a fiberglass clusterfuck. Is paying someone to make and attach a new piece something that's realistic cost-wise? Or should I get measurements, craft a piece, and just ship it down? I'd really rather not drop $600 on new bodywork if I can help it. Paying someone to make you a custom part will always be two, three, five times the cost of buying the materials and doing it yourself. You decide whether that's worth the savings in time and effort on your part. Obviously if the professional guy can do better quality work than you can, that should be taken into consideration as well.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:19
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ninmeister posted:Looks like you may have had a little too much fun, asshat.  Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I'm just blown away that any of that bodywork actually was fiberglass. I thought every manufacturer, oem or aftermarket, used plastic. Sagebrush posted:Paying someone to make you a custom part will always be two, three, five times the cost of buying the materials and doing it yourself. You decide whether that's worth the savings in time and effort on your part. Obviously if the professional guy can do better quality work than you can, that should be taken into consideration as well.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:35
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M42 posted:fuckwagon heh
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Mar 30, 2016 02:59
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How long are brand new tires supposed to last? What about if you accidentally do burnouts by accident occasionally?
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Mar 30, 2016 05:50
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A MIRACLE posted:How long are brand new tires supposed to last? What about if you accidentally do burnouts by accident occasionally? Depends. Pilot powers/BT S20s last around 2-3k on the rear on a DRZ. Pilot Road 4s on the back of an FZ6 get about 8.
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Mar 30, 2016 05:53
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How many burnouts are they rated for?
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Mar 30, 2016 08:38
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A MIRACLE posted:How long are brand new tires supposed to last? What about if you accidentally do burnouts by accident occasionally? What tire? Got about 10k so far on the rear of my FZ6 with an angel GT. Pilot power 3 on the front has about 6 or 7 and is near the bars. Did get it slightly used, though.
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Mar 30, 2016 16:46
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4000-12000 miles. Depends on the tire, size, what bike is riding on them, how and where you ride it, and the pressure you run. Question: my wife killed her old Shorai Li Iron battery over the winter by leaving it off the tender. She replaced it with a new one a couple weeks ago, and now it's dead even though she's left it on the tender since getting it. It's one of those two-button fancy Shorai tenders that confuses me because it has buttons on it. Why can't it be automatic? It knows if it's been discharged so why doesn't it just go into recovery mode automagically? This thing is a gigantic pain in the rear end... I plug my lead acid battery into my Battery Tender Jr occasionally and it lasts like 7 years. How did she kill it? She keeps asking me what she did wrong and all I can say is "you got a fancy battery that needs special care and feeding"... aren't these things supposed to be OK for longer between charges? clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 16:52
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clutchpuck posted:4000-12000 miles. Depends on the tire, size, what bike is riding on them, how and where you ride it, and the pressure you run. You're not supposed to leave them on tenders and it shouldn't have died over the winter from being off a tender or from being on their special fender I would have thought. I read the giant, stupid thread on advrider which is ridiculous and I don't recommend for anyone and the summary I got from it was buy an EarthX that's as big as will fit in your bike and only charge it if it needs charging. Does her bike have some parasitic draw? That's all I can think of that would have killed it over the winter.
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Mar 30, 2016 20:43
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It has an analog clock on the tumor. We chalked the first one up to that plus over winter sitting. The new one went on the tender in "maintenance mode" or whatever ASAP so we sort of figured that would negate any clock draw. She just hauled it to the shop for a pre-Alaska scary-rear end BMW-boxer clutch replacement and spline lube so I guess that's as good a time as any to have charging system looked at, but she hardly rode it with the new battery. It spent like 15 minutes on the road and then 2 weeks in the garage on maintenance charge.
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Mar 30, 2016 21:40
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clutchpuck posted:It has an analog clock on the tumor. We chalked the first one up to that plus over winter sitting. The new one went on the tender in "maintenance mode" or whatever ASAP so we sort of figured that would negate any clock draw. Yeah, that sounds wrong/like it shouldn't have happened to me. FWIW, my personal experience is that I rode a bit this winter and then had to swap out the crank case and it just sat outside in the cold all winter without discharging at all, including ~6 weeks when I didn't ride it or turn it on at all and it didn't lose any charge at all. I don't have anything draining the battery when it's not on but still. You're not just having the issue where they have to warm up before they start in the cold, are you? I assume not but figure it doesn't hurt to ask. edit: fwiw here's the ridiculous advrider thread - http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/motorcycle-batteries-agm-gel-wet-lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4.757934/ it's the best thing I could find on the internet for LiFePo batteries but if anyone knows about something else I'd be glad to hear it. builds character fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 22:47
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They're all garbage with poo poo quality control so you're rolling the dice with every one. If you want the handling that bad like put a gallon of gas less in the bike on each fill up or something idk They're good for racebikes and any place you always have a jump pack available.
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Mar 30, 2016 23:28
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Yeah, I would not run one on a streetbike. Shorais were complete poo poo when they first came out in 2010 and none of the Li batteries have gotten much better since then. They'll randomly die on you, even if you do everything right. IME, most people wind up going through a few per race season. Best case you can get a full season out of one, but then you're leaving it sitting for 5 months so you still need spares because that one is likely going to bite the dust.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:05
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Lead acid's been around and working fine for 157 years, no reason to use more expensive less reliable LiFePo crap at this point in time.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:27
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If you think you need the weight savings of li(fe)po on the street then lmao
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Mar 31, 2016 00:29
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I'm gonna put a lithium in my 50cc race bike. Everywhere else in life, it's pointless.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:47
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I keep telling her she could shave 100lbs off and get a Buell with a reliable battery.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:47
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Buy her a regular battery and a gym membership
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Mar 31, 2016 01:29
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abigserve posted:Buy her a regular battery and a gym membership This. Find a user in AI by the name of kastein. he's cut open some of these expensive as gently caress batteries. they're basically gently caress all garbage. Ive bought (1) ballistic. it lasted all of a week before it killed itself. Never again on a moto. I'll skip a beer a night and offset the weight.
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Mar 31, 2016 01:39
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I'm gonna put a lithium in my 50cc race bike. Everywhere else in life, it's pointless. I can see it being useful on a custom bike with no space in the usual places so you could mount it somewhere strange and on it's side or whatever but yeah. Pointless.
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Mar 31, 2016 05:16
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:If you think you need the weight savings of li(fe)po on the street then lmao I take a laxative before every ride just to ensure I get maximum performance out of my machine.
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Mar 31, 2016 05:24
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How about that -- me too! I find that the, shall we say, "extended effects" are just the motivation I need to really shave those seconds off my ride.
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Mar 31, 2016 05:32
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Found this interesting article about exhaust design, to follow up on silencer-chat earlier: http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/exhaust_system_technology.htm
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Mar 31, 2016 10:51
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So last year when I took my biek out of storage, the rear brake was kinda limp. Still worked. Just needed more pedal distance. I didn't think much of it. After a month of riding, it slowly returned to it's normal bite point. This year the pedal was almost completely dead. Rode it home anyways. After I got home I cycled the pedal about 100 or so times. And pressure every so slowly comes back to where it's actually braking right at the end of travel. What causes this? The fluid looks pretty nasty, so I'm going to bleed it. But I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how this happens.
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Mar 31, 2016 15:03
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HotCanadianChick posted:Lead acid's been around and working fine for 157 years, no reason to use more expensive less reliable LiFePo crap at this point in time. Wow, everyone really hates these batteries. fwiw, mine's lasted for a year now and I bought it because I wanted something I could leave outside in the winter and not have to charge and it's worked just fine. I'm sure, having typed that, that it will now explode and kill me or die and leave me stranded in a seedy motel bathtub full of ice.
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Mar 31, 2016 15:05
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I forgot to take my lead acid battery indoors last October, get to pay for it now. 3 volt resting.  Otherwise I agree with the lithium batteries. It sounds good in theory but turns out to be total poo poo.Ziploc posted:
Needn't be more complicated than an air bubble in the right place. Low fluid level makes it worse. When you pump and pump forever you can get lucky and move it to another spot, or the air heats up, expands and helps pressurize the system a tiny bit. Bleeding the rear brake can be a pain the rear, but I got great help from an eBayed plastic syringe which came with a silicone hose. Pushing the fluid in from the caliper helped since it is the lowest point on the circuit while the reservoir is the highest, air bubbles want to go upwards. Also had another syringe for drawing fluid out of the reservoir as it filled up. Unbolting stuff, moving it around, tapping it hundreds of times is usually needed if there's a resilient bubble in there, but it's very satisfying when it finally burbles out.
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Mar 31, 2016 16:24
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Ziploc posted:So last year when I took my biek out of storage, the rear brake was kinda limp. Still worked. Just needed more pedal distance. I didn't think much of it. After a month of riding, it slowly returned to it's normal bite point. Air or water in the system, or the MC seals are starting to go and is failing to pressurize the system at all. Edit: whoops, new page!
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Mar 31, 2016 16:24
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Brake fluid is like a every 1-2 years regular thing. If you haven't done it ever and you're having trouble with brake pressure, you probably have your answer. I will admit to never doing the rear fluid on either of my Ulysseses though. I could probably flinstone it better than the rear brake works.
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Mar 31, 2016 16:53
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Ziploc posted:So last year when I took my biek out of storage, the rear brake was kinda limp. Still worked. Just needed more pedal distance. I didn't think much of it. After a month of riding, it slowly returned to it's normal bite point. Master cylinder seals. The brembo on my Drz did this until I replaced the seals.
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Mar 31, 2016 17:52
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