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Yeah, as long as it's a plug/patch combo that gets pulled through from the inside, they should last the life of the tire. I've done hundreds of them, and only had a couple that didn't hold (and I knew those probably wouldn't, but the customer wanted me to try anyway)
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Mar 28, 2016 03:38
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My 2007 STI decided to lunch a rear wheel bearing in spectacular fashion on the way into work this morning. Replace with OEM or parts store garbage (which appears to be "National Wheel Taper Bearing")? Cost is not an issue, but time without the vehicle is a bit more of a problem.
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Mar 28, 2016 16:19
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saint gerald posted:My 2007 STI decided to lunch a rear wheel bearing in spectacular fashion on the way into work this morning. OEM cost is pretty reasonable considering the labor cost involved, I'm guessing the dealer doesn't have it on hand? #28016PA010 Chriskory fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 17:06
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Chriskory posted:OEM cost is pretty reasonable considering the labor cost involved. Are you going to do both rears? Wasn't planning to...the other one feels solid. But I guess they both have the same number of miles on them and it probably will only take 50% longer to do both. From the look of the walkthrough on NASIOC removing the hub looks fairly straightforward, but I'll need to take it to a shop to have them actually change the bearings. That's a thing people do, right? A shop's not going to look at me as if I've sprouted another head if I walk in clutching a hub and a bag of parts and say "yo, can you press this in for me?" Edit: the dealer does not have it in hand and says 3-5 days. saint gerald fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 17:14
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The OEM procedure leaves the upright on the car. Disconnect lateral links, pull out CV, use slide hammer to remove hub, and then a big threaded rod does all the press work. I've done it that way once, kind of nice but taking off the upright isn't much different. I think there is a tolerance for roundness of the upright, might want to make sure it's still straight. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 17:41
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jamal posted:The OEM procedure leaves the upright on the car. Disconnect lateral links, pull out CV, use slide hammer to remove hub, and then a big threaded rod does all the press work. I've done it that way once, kind of nice but taking off the upright isn't much different. Is the upright the same as the bottom part of the strut? If so I have taken that off comparatively recently, it should come off without difficulty. How much should I be looking to pay a shop to press in the new bearings? edit: anyone happen to have the right part numbers for the oil seals? NASIOC says a 28015AA070 and a 28015AA080, but Liberty Auto City doesn't seem to list the 070. saint gerald fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 19:35
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I've got a lovely green corral that's been slowly growing from one head gasket on my 2004 EZ30. I replaced the coolant about a year 15000 miles ago and didn't add the Subaru conditioner (wasn't recommended for the 6 afaik). I'm not losing much coolant, I add maybe 4-8oz to the reservoir every oil change. Do you think the Coolant Conditioner would do any good at this point?
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Mar 28, 2016 20:03
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Boys who love boys
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saint gerald posted:Is the upright the same as the bottom part of the strut? If so I have taken that off comparatively recently, it should come off without difficulty. Yeah it is the big cast iron piece the bearing goes in that everything attaches to. Don't know what a shop will charge to press things. Could be $20 and a case of beer or a lot more.
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Mar 28, 2016 21:03
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Why shouldn't I buy this car? It appears to have been well taken care of and it's pretty close to me. I'm not looking for something that will be maintenance heavy but I don't mind getting my hands dirty.
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Mar 28, 2016 21:48
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two_beer_bishes posted:Why shouldn't I buy this car? It appears to have been well taken care of and it's pretty close to me. I'm not looking for something that will be maintenance heavy but I don't mind getting my hands dirty. It hasn't sold because it's overpriced by about 3,000 dollars.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:32
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daslog posted:It hasn't sold because it's overpriced by about 3,000 dollars. That's what I thought while checking edmunds.com but I wasn't sure if that was accurate for those cars.
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Mar 28, 2016 23:54
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I wouldn't personally pay that asking price, but a low miles unmolested WRX of that era is a very rare find. For something like that, book value pretty much goes out the window. Plenty of enthusiast-oriented cars that can fetch way above book in the right circumstances. But he's still probably asking too much considering it was first listed in December. Guinness fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 00:01
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Should I be concerned about the lack of recent miles? He said 500 miles in the last 3 years. Looks like he just sold an accessport on nasioc too, is that something to worry about?
two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 00:11
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two_beer_bishes posted:Should I be concerned about the lack of recent miles? He said 500 miles in the last 3 years. Looks like he just sold an accessport on nasioc too, is that something to worry about? Little bit, yeah. If you proceed with this check that exhaust, intake, etc haven't been swapped recently.
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Mar 29, 2016 00:29
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saint gerald posted:Is the upright the same as the bottom part of the strut? If so I have taken that off comparatively recently, it should come off without difficulty. You can call around to find the best price. I did the two rear bearings on my 01 2.5RS and setting up the press was really complicated due the the hub shape. I probably spent an hour setting up to press the first one out, then 5 minutes press a new one in and do the other side.
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Mar 29, 2016 00:46
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two_beer_bishes posted:That's what I thought while checking edmunds.com but I wasn't sure if that was accurate for those cars. He's done a lot of dumb cosmetic mods. STI wing, Rally Roof scoop, etc. 99 times out of 100, that means he's some NASIOC nerd who is in love with his car and thinks it's worth way more than what it is.
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Mar 29, 2016 01:12
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Guinness posted:I wouldn't personally pay that asking price, but a low miles unmolested WRX of that era is a very rare find. For something like that, book value pretty much goes out the window. Plenty of enthusiast-oriented cars that can fetch way above book in the right circumstances. Cutting a loving hole in the roof doesn't could as unmolested. If a car has a rally roof and no (real) cage, the owner is an rear end in a top hat. 100% proven fact.
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Mar 29, 2016 01:16
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two_beer_bishes posted:That's what I thought while checking edmunds.com but I wasn't sure if that was accurate for those cars. Last month I bought a one owner 2002 WRX wagon for $5200. All stock, with the same factory momo knob and Lamco gauge pack. 165k and full service history. I got a great deal finding one unmodified (and plan to keep it that way) but I'd never have paid $8,000  
Chriskory fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 01:41
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nm posted:Cutting a loving hole in the roof doesn't could as unmolested. Ah jeez, somehow I completely missed that. Yeah, gently caress that car.
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Mar 29, 2016 01:41
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Sti wings look way better than no wing or the dinner plate stock one though  My cel turned out to be a p0031, wideband afr. Why are those things so drat expensive
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Mar 29, 2016 03:08
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STI wings look dumb.
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Mar 29, 2016 04:08
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:My cel turned out to be a p0031, wideband afr. Why are those things so drat expensive Because they're really fancy pieces of technology and contain a not-insignificant amount of platinum - the TechEdge guys have a pretty good page on how this poo poo works here, which explains some of it. You can buy 'em from a 3rd party no problem though as long as you make sure it's the right part number (which mostly comes down to plug type and cable length, no you can't change these) and a genuine [NGK/Bosch/Denso/Whoever makes your sensor] sensor. E: There's a Bosch PDF explanation here too
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Mar 29, 2016 04:11
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Shops doing it for the cost of parts because they are doing my clutch anyway. I wish i had money to buy a lift or a house with a better flatter driveway to do it myself.
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Mar 29, 2016 04:24
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Makes sense; it's literally a five minute job on most cars, so  (i don't know if this is true on newer scoobs)
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Mar 29, 2016 06:29
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Chriskory posted:Last month I bought a one owner 2002 WRX wagon for $5200. All stock, with the same factory momo knob and Lamco gauge pack. 165k and full service history. Good to know!
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Mar 29, 2016 11:06
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saint gerald posted:How much should I be looking to pay a shop to press in the new bearings? I brought in both of the uprights, bearings, ball joints and one snapped ball joint bolt (left the other untouched because I didn't want to break it) and I was out the door for around $150 I think. gently caress those ball joint bolts. He got out the snapped portion luckily and didn't have to rethread and probably got the other out with a torch (which I do not own). It was totally worth not loving with it further. I took it to an auto focused machine shop in the Detroit area.
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Mar 29, 2016 16:28
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Larrymer posted:I brought in both of the uprights, bearings, ball joints and one snapped ball joint bolt (left the other untouched because I didn't want to break it) and I was out the door for around $150 I think. gently caress those ball joint bolts. He got out the snapped portion luckily and didn't have to rethread and probably got the other out with a torch (which I do not own). It was totally worth not loving with it further. Thanks for this. My regular shop reckons about two hours.
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Mar 29, 2016 18:40
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2000 Outback with >150k miles, the speedo/tach/etc. seems to have a loose connection. Bumps can cause the needles to jump to strange positions and hold there, some of the backlight goes out. Another good bump will restore functionality of course. Mechanic did some work on the connector which made it better for a few days. Looking for links to home-grown how-tos or someone selling this connector? Ideas?
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Mar 30, 2016 16:53
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What's the current consensus on tuning the FA turbos? I've put about 10k on the 2016 WRX, and I'm feeling the bug a little bit. I used to have the EJ running a Cobb tune, but I've been reading that the FA is already pretty maxed out. I also don't trust NASIOC at all on this. It'll be stock otherwise.
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Mar 30, 2016 21:54
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dk2m posted:What's the current consensus on tuning the FA turbos? I've put about 10k on the 2016 WRX, and I'm feeling the bug a little bit. I used to have the EJ running a Cobb tune, but I've been reading that the FA is already pretty maxed out. I also don't trust NASIOC at all on this. It'll be stock otherwise. They seem to hold well into the low 300s for bhp/tq with just bolt-ons and fuel, but beyond that you might as well set aside enough for new internals, if you want reliable power.
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Mar 30, 2016 23:17
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dk2m posted:What's the current consensus on tuning the FA turbos? I've put about 10k on the 2016 WRX, and I'm feeling the bug a little bit. I used to have the EJ running a Cobb tune, but I've been reading that the FA is already pretty maxed out. I also don't trust NASIOC at all on this. It'll be stock otherwise. I was gonna say something similar to McSpatula, but all of the info I have came from NASIOC. I'm not sure where else I would find it. Maybe a tuner if they've done enough of them.
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Mar 30, 2016 23:52
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Any one here do much open source tuning? I'm trying to teach my self but some things have struck me as odd. Like at WOT, 14PSI, 10.5 AFR I'm over 90% injector duty cycle from 5k rpm to near redline.
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Mar 31, 2016 19:00
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Sadi posted:Any one here do much open source tuning? I'm trying to teach my self but some things have struck me as odd. Like at WOT, 14PSI, 10.5 AFR I'm over 90% injector duty cycle from 5k rpm to near redline. Not yet, but this is the next step for me. What model and year? I've noticed a chug at about 4.2k and when I watch various MAF, boost, etc I can see everything getting trimmed (rate of change declines). I haven't gotten a tactrix cable yet, but soon. What are you using to pull data?
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Mar 31, 2016 22:49
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Derp, yeah its an 04 WRX. De catted up pipe, SPT intake, cobb catted dp, blitz 3" cat back. Im logging with the tactrix cable. Im too cheap for cobb. Also Ive been having a hell of a time making more than stock boost. I have had to add a few turns to the wastegate linkage.
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Apr 1, 2016 00:00
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Stock injectors and stock turbo? There not much more there.
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Apr 1, 2016 00:04
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jamal posted:Stock injectors and stock turbo? There not much more there. Yup. Stock both. I just didn't think, half a psi above stock would be that much load on the injectors. Probably should start leaning up a bit more.
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Apr 1, 2016 03:32
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Sadi posted:Any one here do much open source tuning? I'm trying to teach my self but some things have struck me as odd. Like at WOT, 14PSI, 10.5 AFR I'm over 90% injector duty cycle from 5k rpm to near redline. Check for obvious vacuum leaks, a dirty MAF sensor, etc. If your math is right and you still can't hit your trim targets, it's time to double check your injector scaling.
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Apr 1, 2016 03:38
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Have you tuned for your intake? Isn't it a really bad idea to put them on Subarus without tuning your MAF curve? Can't remember what the stock turbo and injectors are capable of, but I'd trust Jamal.
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Apr 1, 2016 13:33
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Has Subaru said anything about whether the hatchback WRX/STI will return?
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Apr 1, 2016 17:39
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Nothing officially. Only aging leaked documents and heresay.
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Apr 1, 2016 17:47
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