|
Sold at any local hardware store. Good idea. E: Man, what a terrible thread snipe. Quick, here's a photo. I don't yet have a piece of acrylic, but I found I can avoid the pixels if I just put enough space between the film and the iPad. This older example still has them, though.   This Arsat C 80mm flares to hell in all kinds of conditions (so much for the C  )and appears to be extremely soft on one side. I hope the CZJ Biometar that I inevitably order in the next few days is more even and doesn't go crazy with flare in broad daylight or when working with point light sources in urban night photography. Or maybe I should get an Arax. At least if the Arax is bad they'll exchange it. Edit 2: diagnosing & correcting issues with film photography equipment kicks my rear end compared to digital. Test rolls, test rolls... SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Mar 29, 2016 |
#
?
Mar 29, 2016 02:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 21:13 |
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:
If it's extremely soft on one side only you probably have other problems than the lens itself. Either the lens mount is bent out of spec, the lens isn't mounted correctly or the film isn't riding on the rails as flat as it should be. De-centering of an individual lens element or group could be a problem, but usually that also shifts the sharpest point of focus away from the center of the image -- and in bad cases renders the image as a whole unusable. If stopping down improves the situation a lot de-centering also becomes less likely. I'd go from most likely to least likely here: mount bent, then film flatness, then finally centering problems. That said as a user of various 80/2.8 6x6 lenses I found they all flare a bit, depending mostly on their (internal & external) condition and to a lesser degree on their design. They do, however all flare and ghost to varying degrees around point-light sources if light hits them at an 'unlucky' angle -- such is life. Coatings are virtually meaningless on that front. Coatings in general, as I was surprised to learn myself, are being vastly oversold as to their effectiveness and utility. Here's two images from a medium format camera from the 1930ies. Color film wasn't even invented, yet. Unocated lens. One close to wide open the other stopped down a bit.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 07:58
|
|
|
I've been away from film development for 3 or 4 years and now I can't find HC-110 or Rodinal anywhere  Time to read the last bunch of pages to get ideas for what to use instead  edit-- or at least see where people are buying the good stuff edit2-- I forgot about Freestylephoto! tiiiiiiight Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Mar 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 14:09
|
|
|
 _DSC2449 by Maciej, on FlickrGot some weirdness happening in the bottom right in the shadows. I am thinking maybe some reflections from the negative holder I am using to photograph the negatives?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 19:41
|
|
|
bobmarleysghost posted:Haha no, not my voice. That video was created specifically because of me though, using my lovely photo, since back then I had no idea how to scan and process properly. whoa I was just reading back through a few pages and saw my old forum name nah, I didn't make The Video. it helped me out though
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 19:54
|
|
|
I thought 20s superstar made that vide
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 20:41
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:I thought 20s superstar made that vide Nope, pukestain pal, iirc
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 21:50
|
|
|
I think Pukestain Pal made the updated version that wasn't so abrasive to the ears.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 22:02
|
|
|
iSheep posted:I think Pukestain Pal made the updated version that wasn't so abrasive to the ears. I'm sorry syour fuckign noob ears can't handle the OG color correction vid
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2016 22:44
|
|
|
iSheep posted:I think Pukestain Pal made the updated version that wasn't so abrasive to the ears. If people found that one as abrasive then their feelings are too sensitive.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 00:17
|
|
|
I made one without audio that shows me doing a basic workflow (sans dusting which I'd do before sharpening, and I don't always sharpen with a high pass filter but I'm being "complete"): * invert image * open curves * set b/w points for each channel, not paying attention to dust spots and borders * crop, perspective crop when necessary (not here) * tweak curves again for color - I looked at what parts of the image weren't the tone I wanted. I took the shadows down so that near-black areas weren't just pure grain, brought some of the midtones back up, and brought down the green overall. I use the "hand" tool in the curves dialog to click on the portion of the image I want to adjust and drag my mouse up and down to move the curve there. * duplicate later, high pass filter at some radius (2-3px for 35mm, 5 for 120, 7 for 4x5 in my experience all scanned @ 3200dpi) * set layer mode to overlay, reduce opacity to the 20s somewhere to start https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHXJN5kjXxo Most of this really comes down to practice. Each image is different but after trying and failing plenty it becomes easier and easier to see what's off in an image and what steps you need to do to fix it - there's no real cure-all or method you can use for every single scan that'll be as effective as spending a tiny bit of time on each image.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 02:45
|
|
|
VomitOnLino posted:If it's extremely soft on one side only you probably have other problems than the lens itself. The opposite side from the soft side is actually the sharpest part of all the images made with this lens. And it doesn't improve when stopped down. Sounds kind of like decentering, yeah? But. This lens did seem to work better before the camera body (but not this the lens) got banged up... poo poo. I bet it's got a bent mount. And I just had the shutter serviced.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 04:58
|
|
|
I want to start developing my own black and white film (35 and 120) again. Previously, years back, I borrowed equipment from a friend so I'll have to buy the stuff needed. So what do I buy? I remember someone hyping up some Paterson tanks and (possibly) reels, but I'm not sure which ones. Thought I'd hear with you guys before ordering lots of possibly bad stuff.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 11:45
|
|
|
There are so many ways you can do this, but I'll write up what I would consider a good minimal setup for the way I do it. I don't have a rec for a dev tank, but I would advise you to find something that has a reputation for being resistant to leakage and has good reels that won't scratch your film up when used properly. Basically don't go for the bottom barrel tanks. You need, if you want development to be easy and avoid cross-contamination, Delta Datatainers in the 64oz size for each different fluid component you could possibly want. At a minimum, 2, for developer and fixer. Add a graduated cylinder for each container, plus an additional cylinder for mixing stop baths or washes. And a funnel for each chem plus a spare, just like with the graduated cylinders. Best if the spout of the funnel will fit into the top of the dev tank. I store my chems in Datatainers under my bathroom sink in a cabinet and they don't go bad too fast. If you want to spend more money and like to look at your chemicals and feel cool, buy amber glass containers. If you want to get even better shelf life out of your mixed chems, buy accordion bottles for them so you can expel most of the air before capping them. (This is all assuming that you're going to be mixing all your chems from powder in relatively concentrated dilutions and storing them for reuse. Other folks use highly diluted chems mixed from fluid and toss out the part they use after each development. Still more people do even other things.) You're going to want a good thermometer. The cheap metal ones with dial indicators suit my needs for B&W dev, but spring for a fast and accurate digital thermometer if you ever want to do color. (Color is no harder than B&W dev, and in some ways more straightforward, so don't discount it if you're interested.) A timer would be nice. I just use my cell phone. Vinyl or latex gloves are a good idea if you don't want chems getting on you. Other odds and ends you'd want are film hanger clips and a good way to store the negatives once they're dry. You're going to want some way to make sure your negatives are as flat as possible (I need to look into exactly what this would be, myself, as I need it.) A pan for final washing is good to have, too. Photo-flo is supposed to be good as a last step wash to keep mineral buildup and poo poo off of your negatives. I've always just used distilled water, myself. But it's definitely an important step either way. There's more to it than this, but it will make it possible for you to develop film in a repeatable way. I won't get into developers, fixers, and other chems as the options are vast. But I will say that kodak D76 developer and basic Kodak fixer will get the job done and are cheap. Buy a bunch of distilled water and use it for mixing your chems and washing your film.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 15:20
|
|
|
The Massive Dev Chart has an app for ios and android that has development times for every film stock and every developer combination built in along with push/pull options. Also with a volume mixer calculator, and a timer for each step of the process. It's not cheap for your average app (11.99) but I've more than got my money's worth out of it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 16:12
|
|
|
BANME.sh posted:The Massive Dev Chart has an app for ios and android that has development times for every film stock and every developer combination built in along with push/pull options. Also with a volume mixer calculator, and a timer for each step of the process. It's not cheap for your average app (11.99) but I've more than got my money's worth out of it. Thanks for this, I've got like $15 sitting around from Google opinion rewards and virtually never have apps worth buying.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 16:23
|
|
|
If someone has 8.99 in google bux they're not using, feel free to gift the app to me  I never get any opinion rewards anymore, and I can't justify $9 for something I can look up online.That's... two rolls of Portra!
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 16:28
|
|
|
Xabi posted:I want to start developing my own black and white film (35 and 120) again. Previously, years back, I borrowed equipment from a friend so I'll have to buy the stuff needed. I like this tank, though it's the only one I've ever used. It can do 2 rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120. Comes with 2 reels that you can use for 35 or 120. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...2C&A=details&Q=
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 16:31
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:If you want to spend more money and like to look at your chemicals and feel cool, buy amber glass containers. I found a local lab supply store that sells 1L amber glass bottles for $4 each, plus precision thermometers for rather cheap too. Which is pretty amazing considering  always gets shafted on supplies like this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 16:44
|
|
|
Xabi posted:I want to start developing my own black and white film (35 and 120) again. Previously, years back, I borrowed equipment from a friend so I'll have to buy the stuff needed. I gave away all my darkroom stuff a few years ago and just bought (basically) a new processing setup yesterday. Here's what I got (from Freestylephoto): R09 ONE SHOT FILM DEV 500ML UN1814 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE [$14.99] ARISTA IND STOP BATH 12OZ CONCENTRATE MAKES 3 GALLONS [$5.29] ARISTA LIQUID RAPID FIXER 12OZ CONCENTRATE MAKES 1 GALLON [$5.49] ARISTA HYPO WASH 12OZ CONCENTRATE MAKES 1 GALLON [$4.99] KODAK PHOTO FLO 200 16 OZ WETTING AGENT [$7.99] DELTA DATATAINER 1 QT (32OZ) [$4.49] 2x DELTA DATATAINER 1 GAL (128OZ) [$12.98] YANKEE FILTER FUNNEL 16OZ $5.9900 [$5.99] Which adds up to around 60 bucks. I don't mind using house-brand for stop/fixer/washing agent, but I swear by Rodinal (R09 One Shot) and Kodak's Photo Flo. Since I can mix up the developer as I use it, ditto with the photo flo (just a drop in the tank during the wash), I only needed 3 Datatainers. you could get away cheaper if you want to use old milk jugs or laundry detergent bottles. Also for some reason there's not a drat funnel in our house so I had to buy one. I also already had a processing tank, but you could slap one onto that list and still get out for around $100 shipped. My local B&W shop (a film shop that only processes B&W, I have no idea how they stay in business) charges around $20 a roll to process, so this stuff pays for itself in only a few rolls. Process B&W film! It's easy and rewarding!
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 16:55
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:There are so many ways you can do this, but I'll write up what I would consider a good minimal setup for the way I do it. I'll see if I can also do a write-up today or tomorrow... My setup is way simpler than that and works just fine. Or maybe it's a lovely setup and it doesn't matter because my photos are poo poo...
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 17:35
|
|
|
Primo Itch posted:Or maybe it's a lovely setup and it doesn't matter because my photos are poo poo... Same I don't even measure temperature and everything generally comes out fine. I'm kind of a rebel. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 17:40
|
|
|
I bought a 1L Digibase C41 kit. The instructions indicate I can divide up the concentrate into smaller batches so I don't need to binge develop 20 rolls all at once. I like this idea, but I also like the idea of doing the whole 1L batch at once so I can do 2 rolls of 120 at the same time in my large paterson tank. Should I worry about mixing different brands in the same tank? I know the C41 process is the same across all brands and ISOs but when I've done C41 in the past, the pre-soak waste water is always different colors across brands and I don't know if that will somehow not mix well during development.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2016 18:01
|
|
|
Thanks a lot for all the replies to my questions about developing at home, especially SMERSH Mouth's epic effort post. Much obliged! It would be interesting to hear more about Primo Itch's "simple" approach though, but only if the man/lady (?) feels like it. Either way, it won't be a huge investment - but it'll probably be both rewarding and frustrating. I can't wait!
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2016 19:49
|
|
|
I just updated Vuescan (9.5.44) and was trying to scan some film I had processed today but the crop tab doesn't seem to work at all. Usually the auto setting on 'Multi Crop' works well enough, but now it won't give me anything but one frame. I tried going to custom and setting X images = 4 and Y images = 6 (I have a V700 scanner and have four strips of 6 in the holder), the preview area shows me one vertical column of 6 frames. If I use the little arrow at the bottom right I can cycle through just six frames (not the 24 I expect). Sometimes when I mess with X/Y Spacing/Padding to get the multicrop lines to line up properly it just just back to the one frame mode again. Is there something I'm doing wrong here? update: if I change 'X images' to 6 I get 2, changing it to 12 does not get me to 4 eggsovereasy fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Apr 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2016 00:29
|
|
|
Xabi posted:Thanks a lot for all the replies to my questions about developing at home, especially SMERSH Mouth's epic effort post. Much obliged! It would be interesting to hear more about Primo Itch's "simple" approach though, but only if the man/lady (?) feels like it. Either way, it won't be a huge investment - but it'll probably be both rewarding and frustrating. I can't wait! I do have to say vey nice post SMERSHMOUTH. Way more informative than mine to follow. My view/process on developing: I use the freestyle tank because it was the cheapest one to get. It works just fine, you can do two rolls of 135, never had any problems with leaking or damage in any way. To store the chemicals I use brown glass bottles, because they are cheap and will protect from light. I usually have one 1L one for fixer (as I'll make one liter at a time) and one for developer. Stored whenever I have space at the time (right now in the bathroom in a shelf). Never had a problem with chemicals going bad even after some ~6 months of no use. Never used distilled water for preparing the chemicals, unless you have very heavy water I don't believe it should matter. One becker glass that gets washed between chemicals, one funnel that gets washed between chemicals (by washed understand sprayed with water for 5 seconds or so). For thermometer I use a standard glass laboratory one. Doesn't give much precision but in my experience it's enough. All of this (but the film tank) can be had in a store for laboratory hardware. I have no idea how much stuff will cost in whenever country you are, but I probably spent less than 20 dollars total. My process: 1. Load reel (several youtube videos on that) 2. Get developer to 20ºC (either by throwing in the fridge or heating directly in a low fire) 3. Throw developer in, 30s agitation, afterwards 15s agitation with 45s rest for the whole developing time (Use the Massive Dev Chart as a starter) 4. Throw developer out, wash Ilford style. 5. Throw fixer in (at whatever temperature is room temperature). 30s agitation 30s rest for some time I guess from how much use it has. 6. Get fixer back in bottle (DON'T THROW IT OUT), wash film Ilford style. 7. Fill the tank with water, one or two drops of dish soap (same job as photoflo). Spin a couple of times, take film out. 8. Use binder clips to dry film on a door ledge or whatever high thing I can hold it to. 9. Done. I can fit everything I need for developing black and white, including chemicals, in a 0,5m sided box. Never lost a negative to developing problems. edit: Gloves are for pussies, learn to love the smell of fixer on your hands! Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Apr 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 00:27
|
|
|
What is Ilford style washing? Also I really hope that nobody has heavy water coming out of the tap. Otherwise yeah you don't really need to be that careful in my experience, B&W dev in particular is really hard to gently caress up (I don't even bother with a thermometer for it) and C-41 doesn't really require much more attention apart from keeping the temperature vaguely correct.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 00:56
|
|
|
big scary monsters posted:What is Ilford style washing? Also I really hope that nobody has heavy water coming out of the tap. Fill with water, shake 5 times, dump. Fill with water, shake 10 times, dump. Do that until you are shaking 30 times. The last 'cycle' I use distilled water.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 01:00
|
|
|
You don't need to wash that vigorously between dev and fix
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 01:59
|
|
|
I skip the stop bath step and just rinse for a couple minutes, and I haven't had any problems with that. The problem I have is using photoflo at the end, since it just leaves dried residue bits unless I also rinse for a ridiculously long time to get rid of it :\ Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Apr 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 02:04
|
|
|
vxsarin posted:Fill with water, shake 5 times, dump. Fill with water, shake 5 times, dump. Fill with water, shake 10 times, dump. Fill with water, shake 20 times, dump. That's my version of Ilford washing at least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 02:45
|
|
|
Wild EEPROM posted:I skip the fixer step and just rinse for a couple minutes, and I haven't had any problems with that. I'm just reading this wrong, you still use fixer, right?
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 02:56
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I'm just reading this wrong, you still use fixer, right? I meant stop bath, not fixer
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 03:14
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I'm just reading this wrong, you still use fixer, right? I don't use fixer, my art is impermanent in an imperfect world and that way I never have to show people how lovely it is
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 04:10
|
|
|
Wild EEPROM posted:I meant stop bath, not fixer You just go straight from dev to fix? I don't do proper stop baths but washing is good so your fixer will last longer...
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2016 04:21
|
|
|
Frig. I was having bad luck with the tetenal C41 kit where my film was all coming out with a dark brown base. Decided to switch it up and ordered the digibase liquid kit with the separate bleach and fix steps, and bought myself a new precision lab thermometer. Followed the instructions carefully and developed a single test roll.... Still dark brown. Did a second test roll with longer bleach and fix steps just in case... Still dark brown. At this point I'm ready to ship the rest of my exposed film to a lab and sell the remaining stock I have. Stick to black and white. Seriously don't know what's going on here.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 06:00
|
|
|
Sounds like you're not bleaching and fixing long enough (see troubleshooting section): https://www.macodirect.de/media/pdf/3f/43/g0/RDC17_datenblatt_e.pdf
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 12:42
|
|
|
Yup saw that, did both steps for the longest recommended time on the data sheet. Chems were 100F as well.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 15:55
|
|
|
Primo Itch posted:edit: Gloves are for pussies Enjoy your irritated skin, black fingernails, and/or Parkinson's.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 18:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 21:13 |
|
|
Personally I just pour the chemicals into my mouth and hold them there until they're ~98 degrees.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2016 18:22
|
|