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Godholio posted:2012 Wranglers came with everything except an actual filter element. All the hardware is there, just no filter.
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Apr 3, 2016 21:32
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Yeah, it's really strange. That was the first year with a new interior, and in '13 they included filters. 
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Apr 3, 2016 21:39
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I think I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. This is an 86-88 Mk3 (89 onwards had a plastic bit from the front bumper to underneath the bonnet), I have an 88 non turbo with manual and it's a loving fantastic car. Proper analogue beast of a thing... If it's had the head gasket replaced and torqued correctly (usually replaced with ARP bolts) then buy it and just drive it forever. I'm a little in love with mine. Don't worry about the headlights, they're really robust but check underneath for sure because rust kills everything. Check the rear arches (open the door and take off the plastic vent in the door frame, peer inside with a torch) and if you want to be cheeky, pull off the plastic in the trunk and have a rummage around, the hatch leaks either under the spoiler, under the rear wiper or in the case of mine, under the trim at the bottom of the glass. Water will sit in the spare wheel well. Only other place these suffer is in the metal behind the rear speakers, the strut towers. Have a good long look, this guide is particularly great: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/23-guide-buying-a-mk3-supra/ 86-88:  89-92: 
Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 3, 2016 23:48
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Christobevii3 posted:I just went through this. Just replace the vacuum booster line to right kick panel and the one from max a/c heater core shut off. Yeah, those vacuum lines are brittle as poo poo. To an extent from just aging seals, it will go floor vent just from being WOT for too long.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:08
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Godholio posted:Yeah, it's really strange. That was the first year with a new interior, and in '13 they included filters. Maybe they forgot it?
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Apr 4, 2016 00:08
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I'm looking into a new set of tyres for the Cappuccino, but the size of the tyres mean that most of what's out there are budget/eco options for superminis, so I'm not really sure what to go for. Standard size is 165/65R14, 175/60R14 would also be fine (the difference in diameter is tiny). I don't want to go up to 185s. Here are some of the non-ditchfinder contenders I've found so far: Bridgestone Potenza RE088 Continental PremiumContact 2 Dunlop Streetresponse2 Falken ZE914 Hankook Optimo K415 Vredestein Sportrac 5 Yokohama A539 Anything leap out to people as being a definite best option? Anything that's truly horrific and should be avoided? Something else out there I should look at?
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Apr 4, 2016 00:32
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How do I make this pretty with a minimal amount of skill / experience? A good deal of the wiring will tuck up close to being under the dash, but the wiper motor and all the heater stuff would be in the way of getting everything out of sight. Is there some sort of metal or plastic that can be cut into a shape and then curved from the bottom of the dash back to the firewall to encase everything, then put the same black carpet on top? I am a custom car noob.
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Apr 4, 2016 02:48
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Zip ties and (probably black in color) split loom tubing will be your friends. Split loom comes in every size you can think of (and I think I see a little there already). edit: also what the guy below me said randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 04:21
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Velcro ties are amazing. Follow that with a piece of ABS heat-bent to the shape you want, and badda bing you've got a cover. The ABS I've used in the past has a texture like this: http://www.amazon.com/ABS-Textured-Plastic-Sheet-Thick/dp/B00U7XHYFO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1459740072&sr=8-6&keywords=abs+sheet (not the one I buy, but a good picture). That's one method that I know, but there are probably a lot more, better, methods.
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Apr 4, 2016 04:21
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spog posted:Maybe they forgot it? For a year?  Who the gently caress knows, it's Chrysler.
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Apr 4, 2016 07:51
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Geirskogul posted:Velcro ties are amazing. Follow that with a piece of ABS heat-bent to the shape you want, and badda bing you've got a cover. The ABS I've used in the past has a texture like this: Even that method sounds a little outside my skill range, I don't have access to a heat gun to shape something like that. I was thinking of trying to find some sort of clear plastic container or object that already has a workable curve or shape to it and then cutting / drilling away at it until it fits nicely, then covering with carpet.
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Apr 4, 2016 14:07
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marshmonkey posted:Even that method sounds a little outside my skill range, I don't have access to a heat gun to shape something like that. I mean how much heat gun do you need? http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=heat+gun
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Apr 4, 2016 14:20
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Hey people I drive a 1993 Saab 9000 2.3l non turbo manual transmission. I'm buying the cars 3rd fuel pump and I'm trying to figure out why the car is breaking them. I did my google research and I found some forum links that state the same stuff about fuel filter/debris/filter sock. I always have a 1/4 - 1/2 of a tank, its almost full now. (89 Octane) The fuel filter + Check Valves replaced in April 2015 1) First pump went April 2015 It was a warm night, and then we had a freak rain storm, the car wouldn't start the next day. (This is important: After the new pump was put in (from e-euro parts) the car wouldn't start, after pulling the pump the sock was covered in corn syrup. So I dissolved it all, cleaned out the pump and the tank and changed the fuel filter and was back on the road. 2) Second pump went April 2016 Ran fine coming home from work, 3/4 tank of gas. Freak snow storm, the car wouldn't start the next day. Its doing the same thing from last year, the fuel is getting to the motor but the pump seems to be too weak to keep it running.
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Apr 4, 2016 15:13
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Is there a second fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator under the hood?
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Apr 4, 2016 16:54
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Geirskogul posted:Is there a second fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator under the hood? That engine (b234) does not have a second fuel filter, but it does have a pressure regulator that should be easy to access if its like the later engines in the family. Bikesonyx, what methods have you used to determine that it is in fact the pump that's failing?
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Apr 4, 2016 18:33
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Quick question for this thread, hoping to get some ideas on how to move forward. I'm driving a 2011 VW Golf TDI with 127,500 miles on it. In the 35 - 45mph range, I am feeling a shake or shimmy when accelerating. It goes away if I take my foot off the gas, and has persisted after getting new tires mounted/balanced on my stock 17" wheels. It calms down as I hit 50mph or so and I don't really feel it when I'm on the brakes. Would it be best to have a brake/wheel/tire guy take a look at things? I thought perhaps it could be wheel bearings or something brake related. I don't want to go blind into a shop and like to have an idea of what the problem is. Any thoughts?
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Apr 4, 2016 20:08
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I'd looking at steering components, particularly tie rod ends. Brake problems rarely manifest off braking and bearings usually alert you through noise long before they start causing that kind of symptom. Provided it's not a dent in the rim of course; you should rotate front to rear and see if the issue follows the wheels.
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Apr 4, 2016 20:17
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qutius posted:Quick question for this thread, hoping to get some ideas on how to move forward. Might be an engine mount too. Check your lower engine mount next oil change.
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Apr 5, 2016 00:42
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So in the pantheon of terrible ideas, how does M73 in an E30 sound? The engine is only 100lbs heavier, supposedly fits with little fabrication necessary, just a lot of screwing with the fuel delivery, cooling, and intake, and I see 750iL's for super cheap all the time on Craigslist. BMW forums have almost no info available on this subject, which tells me it's probably not the best idea, but I want to be sure since even M5x swaps have a million bizarre steps and extra pieces needed that you wouldn't expect from an engine that belongs to the same manufacturer and in a similar platform
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Apr 5, 2016 01:21
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Enourmo posted:I'd looking at steering components, particularly tie rod ends. Brake problems rarely manifest off braking and bearings usually alert you through noise long before they start causing that kind of symptom. Christobevii3 posted:Might be an engine mount too. Check your lower engine mount next oil change. thanks guys!
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Apr 5, 2016 02:53
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And as far as cars I actually can work on, 05 civic with 1.7, starts to seriously overheat at idle in a minute or so, just keeping it at 2.5k rpm lets it return to normal temp. I'm thinking that the water pump is going since it's got 110k miles on it and I filled the coolant tank. I've had a bunch of gremlins since getting it back from my insurance's body shop when I almost decapitated a deer with my A Pillar, but this is my first real problem since then
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Apr 5, 2016 03:44
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The Door Frame posted:So in the pantheon of terrible ideas, how does M73 in an E30 sound? The engine is only 100lbs heavier, supposedly fits with little fabrication necessary, just a lot of screwing with the fuel delivery, cooling, and intake, and I see 750iL's for super cheap all the time on Craigslist. BMW forums have almost no info available on this subject, which tells me it's probably not the best idea, but I want to be sure since even M5x swaps have a million bizarre steps and extra pieces needed that you wouldn't expect from an engine that belongs to the same manufacturer and in a similar platform Having delved into both e30/m30 and e24/m70, I would say it's a very difficult project. The e30 is tiny and despite the M70 being nominally the same length as an m20, there are lots of things in engine bays you don't think about that would need to find another home. Sheetmetal would need cutting to clear the bellhousing area of whatever trans you have in there (so, at easiest, the auto out of an E32). Symmetric intake ducts would have to be accounted for...somewhere. If you want to use factory ecu, harness etc you would have to transplant all the 7 series DBW fuckery. Bigger diff (out of an e34/36/whatever) because the e30's diff would supernova. The extra weight of even an m30 makes an e30 handle like a bag of cement unless you spend $$$$$ on suspension, the m7x would be absolutely brutal in this regard. I have seen a man swap an m70 into an e34 on the cheap, he effectively just swapped all of the wiring of the car, cluster, modules, sub frame bits et al into a 520i shell. It was only that 'easy' because the e32 and e34 are genetic brothers and from the same era and lots of parts interchanged by design. It worked reasonably well, handled like poo but he didn't want to spend money on suspension. e: spelling, digits Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 03:44
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The Door Frame posted:And as far as cars I actually can work on, 05 civic with 1.7, starts to seriously overheat at idle in a minute or so, just keeping it at 2.5k rpm lets it return to normal temp. I'm thinking that the water pump is going since it's got 110k miles on it and I filled the coolant tank.
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Apr 5, 2016 04:00
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Elmnt80 posted:I'd normally say it could be caused by belt slip or a failing water pump, but in this case, the water pump is driven off the timing belt. Which if you're at 110k miles, the timing belt and any pullys and tensioners should be replaced if they haven't already. Replacing the timing belt at the same time will save you money if you go through a shop, time if doing it yourself and a massive headache either way. This is because most of the time in doing the job is just getting to the pump and timing belt in most fwd vehicles and time=money in a shop. Replacing the belt was first on the list for as soon as Chicago decides to either be spring or winter, I just wanted to also be sure that I should replace the water pump as long as I'm down there, and to make sure I haven't overlooked something. Unfortunately, the problem is getting worse, so I have to fix it very soon before I become one of those assholes that I make fun of for knowingly breaking their cars Slavvy posted:Having delved into both e30/m30 and e24/m70, I would say it's a very difficult project. The e30 is tiny and despite the M70 being nominally the same length as an m20, there are lots of things in engine bays you don't think about that would need to find another home. Sheetmetal would need cutting to clear the bellhousing area of whatever trans you have in there (so, at easiest, the auto out of an E32). Symmetric intak ducts would have to be accounted for...somewhere. If you want to use factory ecu, harness etc you would have to transplant all the 7 series DBW fuckery. Bigger diff (out of an e34/36/whatever) because the e30's diff would supernova. The extra weight of even an m30 makes an e30 handle like a bag of cement unless you spend $$$$$ on suspension, the m7x would be absolutely brutal in this regard. Jesus Christ, no wonder there's no documentation, that's a job for madmen. The entire rest of the car would have to be built around a moderately powerful V12 that would only really contribute "has a V12 inside". As opposed to getting the same power from forced induction and/or an M5X engine. The few examples I could find looked like they fit so perfectly, and all of the measurements work on paper, but hearing about cutting apart the engine bay... They probably fit like gloved because their bays were custom built for the engine compontents to fit inside, not because the 60° V layout is secretly perfect for this engine bay and getting both an E30 and a 750iL is somehow more difficult than getting an E30 and an E34. The Internet makes everything look so much easier than it actually is
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Apr 5, 2016 04:29
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The Door Frame posted:Replacing the belt was first on the list for as soon as Chicago decides to either be spring or winter, I just wanted to also be sure that I should replace the water pump as long as I'm down there, and to make sure I haven't overlooked something. Unfortunately, the problem is getting worse, so I have to fix it very soon before I become one of those assholes that I make fun of for knowingly breaking their cars Hey i live around the Chicago land area and have a lot of experience in Honda timing components. If you need help to do it or a decent shop I can offer both. In the question department I was recently replacing the fuel filler neck on my 93 Camry and the vent tube fell of in my hands. Anyone have a good way to fix this. I assume welding but I'm nervous due to it being full of gas and vapors. Someone at work recomended soldering the tube back on.
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Apr 5, 2016 05:11
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The Door Frame posted:Replacing the belt was first on the list for as soon as Chicago decides to either be spring or winter, I just wanted to also be sure that I should replace the water pump as long as I'm down there, and to make sure I haven't overlooked something. Unfortunately, the problem is getting worse, so I have to fix it very soon before I become one of those assholes that I make fun of for knowingly breaking their cars Put it this way: I supercharged an M30 because it was easier than swapping an M70 in, and this was on an E24.
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Apr 5, 2016 06:58
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Also, the V12 doesn't really seem to be that nice an engine. If you're going to put yourself through that much hassle to be able to say you have a 12-cylinder E30, there may be better options, Mercedes perhaps. Update on my tyre question : The Toyo Proxes CF2 is available in a suitable size, and seems well regarded. Opinions?
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Apr 5, 2016 09:18
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Not that anyone cares probably, but I finally got a hold of that guy selling the supra. Gonna meet with him this weekend and if the frame and everything is okay I'll be purchasing my first (project) car. Well I've only really bought trucks before so having something with power that doesn't weigh over 2 tonnes will be nice.
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Apr 5, 2016 14:23
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We care! Start a "I bought a Supra and have no idea what I'm doing, oh god!" thread!
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Apr 5, 2016 14:52
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Yeah...I already split my commute between two projects and have no business with a third, but that wouldn't stop me from grabbing that thing.
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Apr 5, 2016 15:57
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Safety Dance posted:We care! Start a "I bought a Supra and have no idea what I'm doing, oh god!" thread! That's probably exactly what's going to happen. Someone the head gasket likes to go so maybe that will be project one.
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Apr 5, 2016 16:10
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Not that anyone cares probably, but I finally got a hold of that guy selling the supra. Gonna meet with him this weekend and if the frame and everything is okay I'll be purchasing my first (project) car. Bruv, I CARE because I have one and it's hilarious to think that I own a car that was the very best Toyota put out in 1988. I haven't made a thread myself because effort but if you grab it then I'll certainly hijack it.  How many miles has it done? HGs tend to die around 75k or so. *edit: it's either an 87 or 88 if it's a turbo. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 16:27
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88h88 posted:Bruv, I CARE because I have one and it's hilarious to think that I own a car that was the very best Toyota put out in 1988. I haven't made a thread myself because effort but if you grab it then I'll certainly hijack it. Lol 380k km so like 200k miles. It's an 88 I think?
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Apr 5, 2016 17:17
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If you need further bad influence: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWm5mY8t0IM
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Apr 5, 2016 17:31
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Lol 380k km so like 200k miles. It's an 88 I think? If it's done 200k then the head gasket will have been replaced already, hopefully with a metal one and ARP studs torqued correctly (72ft lbs iirc) so ask about that one, torquing the OEM bolts just stretches them and weakens the whole setup. If by some miracle the car's made it that far on the original head gasket then bear that in mind when offering cash.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:41
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SouthsideSaint posted:Hey i live around the Chicago land area and have a lot of experience in Honda timing components. If you need help to do it or a decent shop I can offer both. Awesome, I'm going to try to fix it on my own, but it's good to know that if I run into a wall there's someone nearby I can call on who legit knows what they're doing
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Apr 5, 2016 17:46
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SCA Enthusiast posted:That engine (b234) does not have a second fuel filter, but it does have a pressure regulator that should be easy to access if its like the later engines in the family. Bikesonyx, what methods have you used to determine that it is in fact the pump that's failing? Redneck science mostly. It has the same symptoms from when the 1st fuel pump died. I pulled the fuse, which created a no run condition. Geirskogul posted:Is there a second fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator under the hood? From what I researched if they FPR was bad it would still run, I just came back a few weeks ago from a 400 mile round trip, no fuel in the engine bay bikesonyx fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 17:52
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Is there a thread for transmissions anywhere here? Specifically i'm trying to grasp how a high horsepower/torque CVT transmission works. I'm familiar with the smaller belt type, but I would like to find some more info about mechanical(?) cvt's.
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Apr 5, 2016 19:12
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Some car CVTs use the pulley system you're familiar with, just with a chain in place of the belt. Others use a toroidal type: then there's the toyota hybrid transmission, which while it is a transmission which is continuously variable, it's not really grouped with mechanical CVTs for transmitting power from a single source.
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Apr 5, 2016 19:18
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One last dumb question, I was originally planning on storing my E30 in my folk's garage because that's where I currently work on my car, but they are not too keen on that idea. Maybe I can rent space from them to make it work, but that's a conversation for later and I want to explore all of my options in this situation. Can you work on a car in a self-storage place? Most seem to ban flammable liquids for obvious reasons, but that means no gas or oil. Plus it seems as though most don't have constant electric supply to storage units unless it's a very small space, so I couldn't use wired power tools or even lamps without jerry-rigging something that almost certainly violates the rental agreement. I am thinking about 6-8 months of work to just get the car in good enough shape to dodge the street cleaners/pull it in and out of my folk's garage like I do with my current car. Is that a realistic estimate? I have the money for a cheaper E30 on hand and am hunting for a donor engine/trans/diff now
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Apr 5, 2016 19:52
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