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I painted a bunch of Biel-tan back in the day and I just black lined the plates, no washes. They were the crappy two piece 2nd or 3rd Ed plastic Guardians so the models looked like rear end. I really liked how it came out though so I'd probably try something similar if I wanted to paint white armor again (please god no.)
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Apr 4, 2016 19:11
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Yeah don't use a black wash for painting white.
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Apr 4, 2016 21:30
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Zombies and a Dwarf for good measure
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Apr 4, 2016 21:50
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NTRabbit posted:There's no solvents involved though - I've seen all the talk about primers, which is why I've been brushing on Vallejo surface primer, but the paint still doesn't hold onto it as well as any other material, I think only metal points have been worse; the brushed on lacquer reacting badly to the bonesium underneath the paint is a new thing for me. I can't speak to the ingredients of that specific stuff you're using, but lacquers generally have chemicals like toluene and MEK that will mess up plastics that aren't solvent safe (and you if not using a proper respirator).
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Apr 4, 2016 22:18
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richyp posted:Zombies and a Dwarf for good measure Is that a cat skeleton?
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Apr 4, 2016 23:11
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah don't use a black wash for painting white. this a thousand times. I use the technique Kris from miniwargaming does; 1. Prime White 2. Airbrush on Ulthuan Grey 3. Mix Drakenhof Nightshade, Agrax Earthshade and Lahmain Medium (1 Part Drak, 2 Parts Agrax, 1 parts Medium), also add some liquitex flow-aid to aid the viscosity. 4. Light dry brush whitescar 5. Highlight White Scar using edge highlighting, mix with Lahmain medium 
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Apr 4, 2016 23:20
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GoodBee posted:Is that a cat skeleton? Could be... 
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Apr 4, 2016 23:33
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Wish my airbrush wasn't borked now, that one looks so nice and crisp. Need to hurry up and get my replacement brush.
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Apr 4, 2016 23:37
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah don't use a black wash for painting white. I really like black oil washes over white
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Apr 4, 2016 23:45
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Star Man posted:I think it's mostly impatience. Impatience in learning a good water-to-paint ratio for Citadel paints and waiting for watery paint to dry. Like, it's probably a problem with me and not the paints. And I paint thick-on-thin like I would on canvas or wood panel. I have the a similar problem with spots appearing. I asked for help here before and I tried a few things that were suggested but it seems to still be happening. I used a dampened war painted detail brush (I don't bother with different sizes. I had a insane detail brush that I accidently wrecked.). I use mostly Velajo and army painter paints that I pour onto a container lid that I use as a pallete and then I dab it a little on the side or an empty area to thin the brush. (I don't use primer, because I heard you're not supposed to on Reaper figures, or at least it's not needed). When the paint dries I get these little spots of white, usually along edges and sharp folds (for example, spines on the back of a cloak, or the back of a hood) or in divits. Am I not thinning the paint on my brush enough? Do I need to just keep layering on paint until the holes stay gone? Someone in RL (who I haven't seen in a long time) mentioned some sort of thing I can paint over it, I'm guessing shortly after painting) to protect it, but I don't remember what it's called, and I don't think my local gaming shop has it.
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Apr 5, 2016 01:43
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah don't use a black wash for painting white. Yea, don't go with half measures. Start with a black primer. 
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Apr 5, 2016 02:42
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Ashcans posted:Yea, don't go with half measures. Start with a black primer. Highlight your white... with black 
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Apr 5, 2016 02:44
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If Astronomican Gray was still a thing, your problems painting white would be easily solved. GW axing the Foundation range bums me out to this day. Astronomican White, Dheneb Stone, Charadon Granite are amazing. Knarloc Green and Solar Mach. Orange were dope too. Pouring out another 40 of Mt. Dew for the Foundation range. 
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Apr 5, 2016 03:35
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Fyrbrand posted:If Astronomican Gray was still a thing, your problems painting white would be easily solved. It still amazes me that in a paint range shift that was apparently motivated mostly by their wanting to rename everything for trademark reasons (possibly the earliest major manifestation of the phenomenon that would later metastasize into the Wyrd Sa'lyd of AoS), they somehow managed to take a poo poo on the paints themselves. Like, there was no reason to change the stuff in the pots if it was working.
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Apr 5, 2016 03:39
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JerryLee posted:It still amazes me that in a paint range shift that was apparently motivated mostly by their wanting to rename everything for trademark reasons (possibly the earliest major manifestation of the phenomenon that would later metastasize into the Wyrd Sa'lyd of AoS), they somehow managed to take a poo poo on the paints themselves. Like, there was no reason to change the stuff in the pots if it was working. This was only part of the reason. They were changing manufacturers of the paint anyway for contract reasons and could no longer guarantee the colors would be exactly the same. So they had to change names anyway lest people lose their poo poo when Blood Red was one shade odd. They just took that opportunity to make trademarkable names so we got Incubi Darkness and Naggaroth Night and XV-88.
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Apr 5, 2016 03:45
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JoshTheStampede posted:This was only part of the reason. They were changing manufacturers of the paint anyway for contract reasons and could no longer guarantee the colors would be exactly the same. So they had to change names anyway lest people lose their poo poo when Blood Red was one shade odd. They just took that opportunity to make trademarkable names so we got Incubi Darkness and Naggaroth Night and XV-88. Ah. That does make a lot more sense. Still odd to me that "please make this paint look and behave exactly like this" is an intractable engineering problem given that it's all just mixtures of chemicals that should be possible to reproduce (by experiment if not by knowing the original recipe) but I guess that's why I'm not a paint engineer.
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Apr 5, 2016 03:49
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JerryLee posted:Ah. That does make a lot more sense. Still odd to me that "please make this paint look and behave exactly like this" is an intractable engineering problem given that it's all just mixtures of chemicals that should be possible to reproduce (by experiment if not by knowing the original recipe) but I guess that's why I'm not a paint engineer. What gets me is that third parties (Vallejo) have done a better job reproducing GW's old line than GW did. I was lucky and got back into miniatures after all my old-school GW paints had died and about a month before AoS, so GW made it really easy for me to break free from them completely.
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Apr 5, 2016 04:55
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Foolster41 posted:I have the a similar problem with spots appearing. I asked for help here before and I tried a few things that were suggested but it seems to still be happening. If you're painting bones the spots are just from the material being hydrophobic. When I'm busting through some bones I don't thin the initial layer at all. Even still you'll get spots cause bones. With enough paint they'll go away. It's not like you're gonna clog intricate detail with bones. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 06:10
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GoodBee posted:Is that a cat skeleton? Chainmail Undead Dog. I had a bunch I sold off a while back.
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Apr 5, 2016 13:43
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Fyrbrand posted:If Astronomican Gray was still a thing, your problems painting white would be easily solved. Echoing this, their foundation paints were amazing and I'm glad I still have mine. Even the bottles they came in were better quality than the garbage they pack their paints in now.
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Apr 5, 2016 14:15
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Z the IVth posted:Chainmail Undead Dog. I had a bunch I sold off a while back. It was a plastic skeleton giant rat/dog off the same sprue as the mantic
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Apr 5, 2016 14:18
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Avenging Dentist posted:What gets me is that third parties (Vallejo) have done a better job reproducing GW's old line than GW did. I completely forgot conversion charts were a thing. Thank you for reminding me of this.
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Apr 5, 2016 14:19
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Do the paint stripping methods in the OP work on resin? I've had mixed results with stripping paint off plastic models but it has worked great on metal, and now I am wondering how it will work on resin.
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Apr 5, 2016 15:54
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:If you're painting bones the spots are just from the material being hydrophobic. When I'm busting through some bones I don't thin the initial layer at all. Even still you'll get spots cause bones. With enough paint they'll go away. It's not like you're gonna clog intricate detail with bones. I haven't gotten to painting Bones yet (because  ) but I was planning on hitting them with some brush on gesso as the primer and working up from there. Honestly I would probably skip the primer but I hate working on a white base and I am used to working with the black gesso primer.
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Apr 5, 2016 15:58
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Pawl posted:Do the paint stripping methods in the OP work on resin? I've used Simple Green to strip paint off resin before. It's a little stickier to resin than it is to plastic in my experience but it can still be done.
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Apr 5, 2016 16:16
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Purple Power is also available as a stronger concentrate version of Simple Green. Still resin safe though definitely wear gloves as it will really irritate the skin. Still might not be enough for really nasty paints in nooks and crannies, but has worked sufficiently well for my ebay rescues.
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Apr 5, 2016 18:03
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I recently used clean spirit to strip a forge world tank successfully I put the sponson turrets in a small amount of meths I had, and it did work loads better but they also went floppy after a few days in it  (I kinda forgot about them) They hardened up again eventually, but that probably should be added to the OP
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Apr 5, 2016 18:03
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richyp posted:It was a plastic skeleton giant rat/dog off the same sprue as the mantic In hindsight the Chainmail ones were probably slightly larger, and don't have that flat midline characteristic of an IP model. Guess there's only so many ways to skin a cat/dog. 
Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 19:08
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Getting back into painting after years  I am terrible.Decided to paint some cheap reaper bones I have sitting around for practice before I put my grubby mitts all over expensive Games Workshop plastic. Picked a model that seemed pretty simple and gave it a shot. I'm definitely inexperienced, but doing this I learned a few things which is good, got to see how some paints would look when they dried, and realized a few areas where I need practice.  Overall not too shabby, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out considering how bad I am. Not that its a difficult model to paint, mostly one big area of silver. I painted another little warrior dude also to try out the paint scheme I'm going to use on my chaos space marines, I like how the colors look dried. The guy himself is kinda ugly, although if you look at it from table height it looks totally fine and I would feel happy fielding that figure, so not too bad. If you hold it up close the face and some other details look pretty sloppy though. Somebody mentioned earlier that reaper bones don't take paint well? Maybe that's part of the problem. I gave them both a good layer of black primer first though, so that shouldn't be an issue after that, right? Or is it? Biggest thing I'm struggling with is figuring out how much to thin the paints, kinda the same problem Star Man was describing I think, with the Citadel range. By default they're too thick, but if I water them down too much its hard to get the paint to go where I want and show up. I guess the answer is patience and layers, really. I am getting a better feel for it though, feels like the second model went smoother than the first. When I started I told myself "wet palette? that's too fancy for me!" but now that I've done some painting, uh, yeah, I should go get a wet palette already. Seems like a great idea actually. Any tips would be appreciated  I did notice some hairs after priming, so maybe I over-primed or something.E: Here's the ugly warrior dude. I could kinda feel this one getting away from me. If he wasn't a throw-away piece I would go back and clean it up some, but I don't know that I care to.  Not the end of the universe, some things came out better than others. I don't begin to know how to approach the cloak properly though, and the details on his armor and face are pretty wasted. Course it was a bone, so not Games Workshop level of detail to begin with... Zaphod42 fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 00:01
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Bones do have trouble taking paint sometimes. If you prime them they are fine...assuming your primer works. Bones reacts poorly to some primers. Bones is kinda more trouble than it's worth for the savings, as large as they are.
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Apr 6, 2016 01:00
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Yeast posted:this a thousand times. My go-to wash for white is 1 part drak, 1 part nuln oil and two parts flow aid (it's the FW recipe, basically). Not sure why you'd want lahmian medium and flow aid, they're essentially the same thing (and, if memory serves, both are basically a very mild solution of glycerine/dish soap and water). But yeah, never use unadulterated nuln oil or any black wash to shade white. That is the path to madness.
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Apr 6, 2016 02:28
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Fearless posted:My go-to wash for white is 1 part drak, 1 part nuln oil and two parts flow aid (it's the FW recipe, basically). Not sure why you'd want lahmian medium and flow aid, they're essentially the same thing (and, if memory serves, both are basically a very mild solution of glycerine/dish soap and water). To be honest I was just following the recipe, but you're probably right! The Medium though isn't just a viscosity agent, its closer to to pigment-less paint, so it adds more body to the paint. (not as useful for a shade wash, though certainly). You can see that by adding one drop of flow-aid to a metallic like Hashult Copper, and then separately add a bit of Medium to a seperate drop. The pigment in the medium solution is still bound more. 
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Apr 6, 2016 02:45
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I went and painted my looted Leman Russ. Looking here, there's a few tiny details I missed (one of the teeth hanging from the cables, verdigris on the rollbar) but I'm calling it finished:      
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Apr 6, 2016 03:07
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Skarsnik posted:I recently used clean spirit to strip a forge world tank successfully Yep, totally, have added that to the OP, also that they should be put in whatever stripping solution you use at room temperature, cold weather doesn't really let the chemical reaction take place very well.
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Apr 6, 2016 14:25
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I occasionally use a black wash on white, but it's generally super thin and I effectively redo the white on top of it so it's only in the crevices. E: also you have to wet the entire surface beforehand to prevent lines when it dries and junk.
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Apr 6, 2016 16:40
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Can anyone suggest a decent basing theme for my Infinity minis? I painted the weapons purple so they would be easier to see on the table, but they may have been a mistake because now I'm stumped for a base and how hard to push the contrast with that. 
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Apr 6, 2016 22:35
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Maybe black or a dark grey, like asphalt / roads?
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Apr 6, 2016 23:21
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So I've decided that after my surgery I'm going to finally paint up this Night Lords army I have built, awful state of the chaos rules notwithstanding. If anyone has any color suggestions or tips on color combinations for that dark blue armor, and maybe suggestions on how to paint tiny lightning bolts that don't end up looking like children's drawings, it'd be much appreciated.
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Apr 6, 2016 23:51
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Shake Lockerman posted:So I've decided that after my surgery I'm going to finally paint up this Night Lords army I have built, awful state of the chaos rules notwithstanding. If anyone has any color suggestions or tips on color combinations for that dark blue armor, and maybe suggestions on how to paint tiny lightning bolts that don't end up looking like children's drawings, it'd be much appreciated. My favorite dark blue color is Deadly Nightshade. Coat D'Arms still makes it. It might be my favorite color period. I used it on a bunch of Tyranids in the 90s so I just painted it flat. My pot is still good. I kept wanting to use it on other stuff before I found out you could still get it but kept stopping myself because I thought it was OOP.
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Apr 7, 2016 00:41
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Shake Lockerman posted:So I've decided that after my surgery I'm going to finally paint up this Night Lords army I have built, awful state of the chaos rules notwithstanding. If anyone has any color suggestions or tips on color combinations for that dark blue armor, and maybe suggestions on how to paint tiny lightning bolts that don't end up looking like children's drawings, it'd be much appreciated. A friend of mine works up from VGA Imperial Blue and it looks awesome. I'm not sure what he highlights with. Imperial Blue smells amazing, so get it in your airbrush and take off that mask. (don't do this)
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Apr 7, 2016 01:20
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