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bikesonyx posted:Redneck science mostly. It has the same symptoms from when the 1st fuel pump died. I pulled the fuse, which created a no run condition. Here is a video I shot with the new fuel pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V4FJy0liOc&app=desktop
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Apr 6, 2016 00:39
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Not that anyone cares probably, but I finally got a hold of that guy selling the supra. Gonna meet with him this weekend and if the frame and everything is okay I'll be purchasing my first (project) car. Everyone in this thread cares. We are all jealous. That car, if it is as advertised, is beautiful. And you would be beautiful for buying it.  I am so jealous. One day I will find a 93 MR2 to restore and my wife will be totally ok with it.
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Apr 6, 2016 02:02
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LeeMajors posted:Everyone in this thread cares. We are all jealous. That car, if it is as advertised, is beautiful. And you would be beautiful for buying it. How big of a life insurance policy will you take out before having her find out about snapback oversteer?
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Apr 6, 2016 02:13
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Christobevii3 posted:How big of a life insurance policy will you take out before having her find out about snapback oversteer? I had an 85, it's an MR myth. You just can't let it toe out through hard corners.
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Apr 6, 2016 02:25
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Enourmo posted:Some car CVTs use the pulley system you're familiar with, just with a chain in place of the belt. Others use a toroidal type: Thanks! I didn't actually know about those. I did find something more towards what I was looking for which is some kind of bastard hydrostatic/planetary monstrosity Can't link from mobile but https://youtu.be/xhmN_CwB9B8 CVT's are... Something. GopherFlats fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 04:07
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The Prius transmission basically works the same way, just with no clutch packs, fewer shafts/gears, and electric motors in place of hydraulic, one of which can move the car. 99% of the time though when people talk about CVTs they mean the cone or toroidal type, as those are most common in consumer vehicles.
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Apr 6, 2016 04:29
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Here's a classroom cutaway of a first gen prius transmission. First and second gen have a chain connecting the planetary to the ring gear. MG1 is the smaller motor/generator - on the left. MG2 is the larger motor/generator on the right that can drive the wheels directly. You can see the planetary gearset itself between the chain and MG2. It's very small. There is actually a clutch between the gas engine and the transmission, but it can't be disengaged - it's there to absorb shocks from starting and stopping the gas engine. MG1 normally will use the gas engine to charge the batteries, and will start the gas engine. MG1 can balance out the output of gas with the electric from MG2 proportionally to get 0%-100% gas power to electric. MG2 is normally used to drive the wheels electrically, and to regenerate power through electric braking. The NiMH battery pack in the back is around 200v DC. The inverter steps it up to 650v 3-phase A/C. From 2010 on - the planetary is connected to the final drive with gears instead of the chain drive.
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Apr 6, 2016 12:56
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Is there an AI IRC channel or facebook group?
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Apr 6, 2016 14:12
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Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/180737692131890/?fref=ts
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Apr 6, 2016 14:29
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I always forget to go find that, thanks.
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Apr 6, 2016 15:54
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Transmissions are boxes made of magic.
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Apr 6, 2016 15:59
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totalnewbie posted:Transmissions are boxes made of magic. Black magic.
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Apr 6, 2016 16:10
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1996 Ford Econoline 7.5L. Belt is squeaking in rhythm and it doesn't ever go away unless you spray conditioner on it. Belt appears to be in good shape, should I check the tensioner? How do I know whether it's beyond the point of doing its job?
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Apr 6, 2016 18:32
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Age or cracks are the usual telltale signs. If there a bunch of little cracks in the rubber, replace it. If it's older than maybe 5 years, replace it. Or, alternatively, if you're setting the tension to spec and it still squeaks, replace it.
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Apr 6, 2016 18:57
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scuz posted:1996 Ford Econoline 7.5L. Belt is squeaking in rhythm and it doesn't ever go away unless you spray conditioner on it. Belt appears to be in good shape, should I check the tensioner? How do I know whether it's beyond the point of doing its job? Take the belt off and give it a close look like Krakkles said. You could also check out the pulleys while you got the belt off. Do any of them have any wobble to them?
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Apr 6, 2016 19:37
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scuz posted:1996 Ford Econoline 7.5L. Belt is squeaking in rhythm and it doesn't ever go away unless you spray conditioner on it. Belt appears to be in good shape, should I check the tensioner? How do I know whether it's beyond the point of doing its job? http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/tools-and-sales-aids/belt-wear-diagnosis/epdm-belt-wear-diagnosis Serpentine belts can be kind of tricky to check. They can be worn beyond spec and not show cracking. A new belt should have nice fat tops on the ribs and narrow valleys, a worn belt will have pointy ribs and wide valleys.
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Apr 6, 2016 20:16
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Thanks for the tips, duderinos (or dudettes, whichever you happen to be). I'll be doing some serpentine sleuthing this evening and report back!
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Apr 6, 2016 20:19
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bikesonyx posted:Here is a video I shot with the new fuel pump That video doesn't tell much but I think the first thing you should do is get a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure at the rail while you turn the ignition on, but without trying to start the engine. You can either borrow this from most auto parts stores, or you can buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight (mind you my cheap harbor freight one broke very quickly). I doubt that the only failure mode for the pressure regulator is "sprays fuel all over the inside of the engine bay", and if you've experienced the same failure twice in a short amount of time, there's a decent chance you're solving the wrong problem. In the event that it is the pump: I'm seeing on eeuroparts that you can either buy the whole unit, or else a drop in part that goes into the unit? Is that correct? On later SAABs its just one whole replaceable unit so that's outside my wheelhouse.
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Apr 6, 2016 22:07
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scuz posted:1996 Ford Econoline 7.5L. Belt is squeaking in rhythm and it doesn't ever go away unless you spray conditioner on it. Belt appears to be in good shape, should I check the tensioner? How do I know whether it's beyond the point of doing its job? Spray your idler pulley or tensioner. Probably dragging on a failing bearing
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Apr 7, 2016 01:44
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Checked out the belts and the bigger of the two is looking real not good and has a couple metal bits in it, which probably don't belong:
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Apr 7, 2016 01:58
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InitialDave posted:I'm looking into a new set of tyres for the Cappuccino, but the size of the tyres mean that most of what's out there are budget/eco options for superminis, so I'm not really sure what to go for. I've had very good luck with Falkens of all tread patterns, so I'm inclined to go with those. The Potenzas are fantastic tires as well, but usually command a premium. The Yokohama will have the longest treadlife of all the tires on your list while still giving good grip. For the money though I'd probably go with the Falkens.
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Apr 7, 2016 04:07
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SCA Enthusiast posted:That video doesn't tell much but I think the first thing you should do is get a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure at the rail while you turn the ignition on, but without trying to start the engine. You can either borrow this from most auto parts stores, or you can buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight (mind you my cheap harbor freight one broke very quickly). I doubt that the only failure mode for the pressure regulator is "sprays fuel all over the inside of the engine bay", and if you've experienced the same failure twice in a short amount of time, there's a decent chance you're solving the wrong problem. That sounds like a great idea, so I watched a video on youtube so I understand how fuel injection works. Unfortunately there is not schrader valve to connect the fuel pressure gauge. Although I did find the FPR! So I need to find another method to test the fuel pressure  SCA, yeah you can rebuild the unit, and there are available guides. As a SAAB owner I would recommend buying the whole assembly because probability of getting the unit disassembled and reassembled without breaking anything is low. Here is the quote from A mod of saabsecene: "Are you sure your immobiliser is disarmed. Even if you haven't set it the system activates the engine immobiliser after a few minutes ( but not the alarm ). This allows the car to start then dies after a couple of seconds because it inhibits the petrol pump. This will run as long as the starter motor is engaged. I don't think the American SAABs have engine immobilizers The alternative is that you have a problem with your petrol pump or its relay. It runs when you switch on the ignition ( enough to pressurise the system ) then doesn't come on again when the pressure drops. It is possible to by-pass the ecu and relay for the pump for a check by running a temporary supply direct from the battery to the connection on the top of the tank. Lift the rear seat and lift the flap in the carpet. There are connections for the fuel gauge and the pump. Identify the correct one and connect the temp supply. Best connect that end first then connect the other end to the battery. You don't want sparks in the vicinity of the tank. Don't leave connected for long since the pump will run continuously. Half a minute should be OK and it will prove that your pump is running correctly." bikesonyx fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 14:22
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Seems like it would be a lot easier to just jump the relay and check that way
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Apr 7, 2016 15:03
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bikesonyx posted:That sounds like a great idea, so I watched a video on youtube so I understand how fuel injection works. Unfortunately there is not schrader valve to connect the fuel pressure gauge. Although I did find the FPR! So I need to find another method to test the fuel pressure I'm surprised the 9000s don't have a schrader valve, but you can tap into the fuel lines but that is kind of scary for someone who's never done it before (like me). Sounds like the saabscene people have good ideas, and you'll be able to get better info from them. I'm kind of just spitballing based on my knowledge of a similar, but 8 years younger car. Whichever methods you use, the important thing is to isolate the correct problem, first by making sure whether or not the fuel pump is actually working, and as mentioned by Enourmo it could be as simple as the relay. Occam's razor applies to cars; break down your problem into simple, diagnosable pieces.
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Apr 7, 2016 15:28
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I've had very good luck with Falkens of all tread patterns, so I'm inclined to go with those. The Potenzas are fantastic tires as well, but usually command a premium. The Yokohama will have the longest treadlife of all the tires on your list while still giving good grip. To be honest, there really isn't a huge amount in it between the Toyos and the Bridgestones, and both would cost me less overall than the Falkens. However, it looks like the Toyos may have better wet grip, which is likely going to tip it for me.
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Apr 7, 2016 17:20
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Proxes is not a bad tire at all. If that's where your heart leads you, go for it!
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Apr 7, 2016 17:31
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I'm also coming from a hard, cracked, decade-old mismatched set of the finest Cheng Shin Hedgemaster Ditchfinders, so it's perhaps a bit of a moot point as to which is marginally better.
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Apr 7, 2016 17:38
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Tire Talk? Tire Talk! I've got an 00 4Runner 2wd with 175k mi on it--bought it with some old Michelin Latitude Tours that are cracked and old. I drive 80% highway miles, 15% city, 5% tame backroads/logging roads (no real offroading or mud, really, just access for fishing or hiking). I put 18-20k on my car per year. I'm down to: Michelin Defender LTX MS (70k) $186.50/per tire total Bridgeston Dueler H/L Alenza+ (80k) $166.75/per Firestone Destination LE2 (50k) $128.75/per I have a lot of miles on this truck and plan to keep it as long as its going strong, but I'm conflicted with going with such high mileage tires. I know the Michelin is rated very highly, but the Destination LE2 is close and the Alenza+ is highly rated in another category. Any advice or anecdotes you guys could share? I'm leaning toward the Michelins because I got such a good price on expensive tires, but part of me wants to be cheap with the Firestones.
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Apr 7, 2016 19:22
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What size do you need? That will affect what people recommend.
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Apr 7, 2016 19:29
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InitialDave posted:What size do you need? That will affect what people recommend. Ah! Sorry. Stock size for me: 265/70/R16
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Apr 7, 2016 19:37
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Hi guys, I know this is a dumb question in that I'm not really giving you guys much to work with but here goes. Yesterday I rear ended someone on the highway. My car was white and his was black. After the collision it appeared as if no damage was done, IE no dents, no paint transfer to either car etc. I figured cool I'm super lucky. Today I get a call from my insurance that the person filed a claim. I haven't been able to get in touch with my representative yet to find out what he's claiming. My question is, is it possible to do structural damage underneath a bumper without damaging the bumper at all or any of the exterior at all? We're talking a collision between a Honda Accord and a Nissan Sentra so two smaller sedans. Thanks, and sorry if this is a dumb question.
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Apr 7, 2016 19:54
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Yes. Often times there is an impact absorber made of styrofoam that can crack. Even if the plastic doesn't appear to be damaged, it often has small spiderweb cracks on it. If there is any textured plastic, it isn't repairable and has to be replaced to bring it back to pre loss condition.
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Apr 7, 2016 20:02
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LeeMajors posted:Ah! Sorry. Stock size for me: 265/70/R16
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Apr 7, 2016 20:25
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Where can I find threaded plugs for the ports of a master cylinder? I can't find any leaks and the system has been pressure bled, but the brake pedal is still kinda spongy. The car is a 2001 Ford zx2.
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Apr 7, 2016 20:30
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InitialDave posted:Hmm. I had General Grabber UHPs on my Jeep because they were noticeably cheaper than other brands, and was very happy with them, but they're not available in your size. Those grabbers are great tires. That's what I'd go with.
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Apr 7, 2016 23:59
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Where can I find threaded plugs for the ports of a master cylinder? I can't find any leaks and the system has been pressure bled, but the brake pedal is still kinda spongy. The car is a 2001 Ford zx2. What are you trying to do here? Actually plug up the ports so you can.......see if the brake pedal falls when you jam on it? Chances are high if you've had what you say you've had done the 15 year old brake hoses on your car are shot.
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Apr 8, 2016 02:10
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Motronic posted:What are you trying to do here? Actually plug up the ports so you can.......see if the brake pedal falls when you jam on it? Yeah I was going to jam on the pedal with it plugged up to see if it's a problem with the master cylinder. By brake hoses do you mean all the lines or just the flexible bits? I replaced the flexible sections with new stuff months ago because the old stuff was tearing at the outermost layer.
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Apr 8, 2016 06:45
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Yeah I was going to jam on the pedal with it plugged up to see if it's a problem with the master cylinder. By brake hoses do you mean all the lines or just the flexible bits? I replaced the flexible sections with new stuff months ago because the old stuff was tearing at the outermost layer. The flexible brake hoses are what wears out, they get soft and expand under pressure, making the brakes spongy. The solid lines are either fine, or leak, so if you're not noticing a leak then don't worry about them. Brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years or like 25k miles for Fords from that era. If this is the first time it's been done, it's possible that being a 15 year old car, crud that has built up in the master cylinder has scored the bore during flushing. The remedy for that is a new master cylinder, or a remanufactured one from a reputable company. I'm not American so I can't advise on that. Another thing to check is that there isn't a tiny leak past any of the caliper or drum piston seals. Peel back the dust boots and see if they're leaking in there, as it isn't always evident on the outside.
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Apr 8, 2016 07:10
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Memento posted:The flexible brake hoses are what wears out, they get soft and expand under pressure, making the brakes spongy. The solid lines are either fine, or leak, so if you're not noticing a leak then don't worry about them. It's not the first time it's been flushed since I bought it, but the fluid in the reservoir was kind of dark and cloudy looking. The last flush was in January 2015.
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Apr 8, 2016 07:16
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I got a broke hose on a 93 volvo 850. It's this thing coming off the air filter. What is this called and could it be the reason my engine will turn over but not fire? Waiting 90 minutes for a tow truck rules.
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Apr 9, 2016 01:20
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