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Combat Pretzel posted:Video cut out. Sure, blame the equipment.
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Apr 8, 2016 22:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:Video cut out. yeah...... yeah yeah.......  haha that's what 3d printed parts do best though. Have you considered having some 3/4mm carbon plates cut, bound together with spacers which then have bolts fit through the spacing to clamp everything together? Keeps everything carbon+metal
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Apr 8, 2016 22:22
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bring back old gbs posted:yeah...... yeah yeah....... Dunno..sometimes it's good to have the easily replaceable parts to break. If he crash-proofs the mounts, then something else, probably more expensive, will break instead.
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Apr 8, 2016 22:28
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bring back old gbs posted:haha that's what 3d printed parts do best though. Have you considered having some 3/4mm carbon plates cut, bound together with spacers which then have bolts fit through the spacing to clamp everything together? Keeps everything carbon+metal Also, designing bogus geometry and seeing how long it lasts is kind of fun.
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Apr 8, 2016 22:28
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Combat Pretzel posted:Shops doing this around here in Europe are too expensive. The place a friend works at has a water jet cutter, but last time we tried it, we had delamination. Altho he mentioned recently that they've a new cutter. Did you consider armattan productions? http://www.armattanproductions.com/
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Apr 8, 2016 23:00
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The Shep posted:I just don't think I should need any sort of authorization from any agency to fly in my own backyard or private property that I have permission to fly on. Basically, having to contact any and all airports within 5 miles as a hobbyist is onerous at best and prohibitive at worst. It is a bit of a mess for sure. The FAA said they were supposed to be putting in a "Notify all airports within range that I will be flying." button to their app at some point, but I think we all know that simply isn't possible because when I turned on that app, I was amazingly within about 20 airports/helipads/marinas. I zoomed out and the entire state is basically one big overlapping airfield. It's ridiculous that they're saying helipads and marinas(And in turn the LAKES they can land on, which is, all of them) count as airport no fly zones. The intent was all major airports, not all these tiny rear end ports, bare fields, private fields, and every single loving lake because a plane with pontoons might some day decide to land on it. This state has about a dozen major airports, and those are what we should be contacting in my opinion. The rest is just a pile of shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit. That said, probably best to just use good judgement and dont fly anything into an airplane or have a dogfight with a police helicopter when you see one coming past. When the weather gets nice I'll be taking some nice drives out into the country looking for big open fields. I figure if I can get some graphene batteries I can charge them quicker than I can run them dry from my car and fly all day long. Philthy fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 04:44
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I've been playing with my nQX for a few hours now, I can do smooth banked turns consistently now and I'm starting to feel it. I'm already starting to look at how much it will cost to build a 250 class  There seems to be a massive variety of options as far as frames and motors go, is there a guide somewhere with suggested parts/part combinations? Rcgroups is a disaster, not really sure where to look.
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 05:04
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Google Butt posted:I've been playing with my nQX for a few hours now, I can do smooth banked turns consistently now and I'm starting to feel it. I'm already starting to look at how much it will cost to build a 250 class Honestly? Grab one of the new Diatone Tyrant kits. They're pretty freaking awesome, and take a lot of the frustration out of building these things. You can get a set that comes with nearly everything you need, or just the frame and grab the parts yourself. Diatoneusa if you're in the US. With decent parts, you will be looking around $200. With budget minded parts, you can probably do it for 150. With total cheapo beginner and a kit that will probably fly and learn from they go for about $80 on a chinese site and will take weeks, and the motors will probably squeak, but you'll end up buying more and better and end up spending hundreds anyways. Philthy fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 05:26
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Philthy posted:Honestly? Grab one of the new Diatone Tyrant kits. They're pretty freaking awesome, and take a lot of the frustration out of building these things. You can get a set that comes with nearly everything you need, or just the frame and grab the parts yourself. Diatoneusa if you're in the US. That's more reasonable than I thought actually. I'm tempted to order everything from Diatone (flight controller, camera, motors, props) just to make it easy.. would you recommend their parts as well Also, I see a few options for flight controllers, is there a major difference between the 3? They have the F3 6DF, REV6 7DF and REV6DF.
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Apr 9, 2016 05:53
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Google Butt posted:That's more reasonable than I thought actually. I'm tempted to order everything from Diatone (flight controller, camera, motors, props) just to make it easy.. would you recommend their parts as well Also, I see a few options for flight controllers, is there a major difference between the 3? They have the F3 6DF, REV6 7DF and REV6DF. I think 6DF/7DF means "Degrees of Freedom", the 7DF has a barometer on it, while the 6DF does not. There are two types of 6DF boards there, Naze and F3. One has all through hole pin connections, and the other has little white ports you plug things in to. I've heard the plug in ports can come loose, I've always used the through hole boards but the F3 has some sort of math coprocessor that lets it do fancy bleeding edge Betaflight stuff that the 6DF naze does not. The Barometer in the 7DF is for keeping a level height but I've heard it has like feet of slop to it and it's useless for a mini quad. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 06:32
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bring back old gbs posted:I think 6DF/7DF means "Degrees of Freedom", the 7DF has a barometer on it, while the 6DF does not. There are two types of 6DF boards there, Naze and F3. One has all through hole pin connections, and the other has little white ports you plug things in to. I've heard the plug in ports can come loose, I've always used the through hole boards but the F3 has some sort of math coprocessor that lets it do fancy bleeding edge Betaflight stuff that the 6DF naze does not. Thanks for this. I think I'm just going to place an order for the Diatone 215 PNF because I'm super lazy. Would the DX6i be good enough for this?
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Apr 9, 2016 06:44
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Google Butt posted:Thanks for this. I think I'm just going to place an order for the Diatone 215 PNF because I'm super lazy. Would the DX6i be good enough for this? Yeah the DX6i would be fine. I just have a crappy OrangeRx T-Six and it's been fine for park stuff and the DX6i is way better than that. At the bottom of the product info tho: Receiver, Radio, Flight Controller, Batteries are not included. Weird, they could easily include it. I wonder if that's a mistake.
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Apr 9, 2016 06:52
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bring back old gbs posted:Yeah the DX6i would be fine. I just have a crappy OrangeRx T-Six and it's been fine for park stuff and the DX6i is way better than that. I noticed that too, I think it's a mistake.. at the top of the description it says "Naze32 REV6 Thin 6DF(B ) Flight controller，using MPU6500 Six-Axis，16M Flash（Black Box）"
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Apr 9, 2016 07:36
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So, uh, what's dRonin now? This a different name of TauLabs, or yet again something new?
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Apr 9, 2016 14:40
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Google Butt posted:I noticed that too, I think it's a mistake.. at the top of the description it says "Naze32 REV6 Thin 6DF(B ) Flight controller，using MPU6500 Six-Axis，16M Flash（Black Box）" I ordered this (he had one left when I emailed, fingers crossed) and the fc is included, he fixed the description. I plan on letting it sit until I get some hours with the nqx under my belt and decide what I want to do for fpv. I did some basic research on setting up flight controllers, and it looks like you can tune how aggressive the auto leveling is. Does this mean that you can kind of make real mulirotors noob friendly like the nqx? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 21:55
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You can change the strength of auto leveling as well as the dead band of horizon mode. Generally you want to tune auto leveling to be quite aggressive so that when you move the sticks it quickly moves to that angle. Horizon mode has autoleveling in the middle and is in rate mode when you have the sticks out of the middle. For FPV racing if you are new to this you are better off to just get it over with and learn to fly in rate mode.
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Apr 9, 2016 22:34
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What do you mean aggressive autoleveling? You can tell the controller a maximum tilt angle, then the quad tilts according to stick input. Also, while I find the firmware lovely to configure, I bought a friend of mine the Naze32 rev6 as a gift having been none the wiser about it earlier. He got it to fly stably and smooth in autolevel with the default PIDs (both inner and outer loop). In acro however, it's a wobbly mess and needs tuning, but he doesn't intend to fly acro anytime soon.
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Apr 9, 2016 22:37
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Combat Pretzel posted:What do you mean aggressive autoleveling? You can tell the controller a maximum tilt angle, then the quad tilts according to stick input. I meant to say strength, not aggressive. What's this about the Naze32 rev6? The quad I just ordered has that same fc. Unrelated, but I'm still deciding on the Quanum v2's or a 7" screen with a sun shade. Ideally I'd use the screen, but I've read they're pretty poo poo in the sun and have bad color. Anyway, any recommendations for receiver?
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Apr 9, 2016 23:45
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well that was unplesant. I've been flying my nano qx FPv all winter. I've grown used to it's wide field of view. I broke out my X-factor, and remembered it had a 70? 90? deg fov lens on it. It was awful to fly. And I made a bunch of mistakes. ... 10 props worth of mistakes. 6x3 props are delicate in comparison to 5x3's. I will break out the maltese or QAV250 tomorrow, and "enjoy flying" instead of being annoyed at crashing twice per battery. Maybe I'll even try it with my DX18. EDIT: How about some detail... I blew through two 2200, 3s packs, and a 1500 3s pack. At the end of the 1500, I hit a high branch and dropped the quad from 15' up or so. The X-factor is held together .. well is supposed to be held together with crashlocks through rubber bungs. That doens't work so well when you bounce off of stuff, so I put big zipties through the holes. The zipties ~all~ cut themselves upon that hard landing today. I have a quanum v2 that I'd like to use with my newer quads, but my rc832 reciever has 2.5mm jacks instead of 3.5mm. (who made that f'n decision) And the adapters I have to take 3.5 to 2.5 make the connection un-reliable. Can't have that now can we... My V1's are dead reliable. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 07:03
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Looks like these just started shipping, they look like diversity headplays. Going to wait for some reviews and then probably pick them up.
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Apr 10, 2016 08:23
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Google Butt posted:I meant to say strength, not aggressive. What's this about the Naze32 rev6? The quad I just ordered has that same fc. Nerobro posted:6x3 props are delicate in comparison to 5x3's.
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Apr 10, 2016 09:29
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Anyone used that eachine vr-007 fpv set? Is it garbage?
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Apr 10, 2016 09:30
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Combat Pretzel posted:What do you mean aggressive autoleveling? You can tell the controller a maximum tilt angle, then the quad tilts according to stick input. What I mean is to tune both the inner and outer loops. If you don't you will get sloppy behavior and it will not precisely follow your stick inputs despite autoleveling just fine when you release them. Inner first then outer. Your buddies probably shakes in rate because the combination of tuning values adds up to make a viable tune in angle mode but the inner loop on its own does not. In the industrial world this is called a cascade loop. An example is a level controller that generates the set point for a flow controller. You can generate tuning values that result in a stable level but the flow controller is going nuts in the background wearing out your valve stem. If you start by tuning the fast moving flow controller it will react very well to both set point changes and process disturbances. Then you tune the slow level controller, this results in the best overall system response.
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Apr 10, 2016 16:15
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Finally have all my 250 quad parts and have slowly started assembling it. Never done anything like this before, including soldering, so it is quite a learning experience. The motors, EMAX RS2205 2300KV, comes with 3 black wires instead of red + blue + black as in all the 250 quad assembly vids on youtube. How do i connect these to the ESCs? The ESCs, FTV LittleBee 20A, also come with 3 black wires on the motor side. How do i connect it to the motor? Do i connect them parallel on 2 motors and cross the outer ones on the other 2 motors, with the center wires always connecting with each other? How do i connect the ESCs to the FC? They come with 4 wires, a black and red and a twisted pair of white + black attached to a 3-slot socket (The middle slot on the 3-socket is empty). This socket fits the rail on the FC. The black + red fits on the PCB(?). Should i connect black+red on PCB and and connect the twisted white+black pair 4 times or yank out one of the wires on 3 ESCs? Do i need to connect all 4 ESCs to the PCB? How does the FC get power if the red+black goes on PCB? Some assembly videos i have seen only uses 1 ESC's worth of 3 wires on the FC and only uses the "controller wire" (not sure what it is called) from the other 3 ESCs.
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Apr 10, 2016 17:49
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So I went on a little spree last night.. Bought a dx6 with receiver, new frame for the nqx and some mmw motors. I wanted to buy a taranis, but I've been reading that people have be having nothing but problems with the OrangeRx modules. Looks like it should be sufficient for the diatone 215 as well. Here's the frame for anyone who's interested. Carbon fiber with folding arms that will accept 6mm to 8.5mm motors, for $25!
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Apr 10, 2016 18:01
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Motor to ESC: connect the right most wire on the motor to the right most wire on the ESC, middle to middle, and left to left. This will cause the motor to spin either CW or CCW. By crossing over any two wires going to the ESC (ex switching the left and the middle), it will cause the motor to spin the opposite direction. At the end if the day, you'll have two motor/ESCs that are crossed and two that are not. ESC to FC: some ESCs have three going to go the FC, some have two. Signal will be one, and the other(s) will provide the power. The FC doesn't need much juice. ESCs to PDB: with the little wires going to to the FC, the big ones go to the PDB. Red to positive, black to negative. Each ESC taps into the PDB, as does you battery lead. The FC will not go to the PDB, as it's getting all the juice it needs from the ESCs.
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Apr 10, 2016 18:08
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Why on earth would you use orangerx modules with a Taranis?
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Apr 10, 2016 18:21
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CrazyLittle posted:Why on earth would you use orangerx modules with a Taranis? Don't you need one to fly the nano qx with it?
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Apr 10, 2016 18:25
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Google Butt posted:Don't you need one to fly the nano qx with it? I see what you're referring to. I haven't flown anything nano-sized in a long time. Sure, if you want to fly Blade/Horizon models you'll need your TX to speak DSM2 or DSMX. But honestly you can always make a DIY spektrum module from a real Spektrum transmitter board. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 19:16
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CrazyLittle posted:Sure, if you want to fly Blade/Horizon models you'll need your TX to speak DSM2 or DSMX. But honestly you can always make a DIY spektrum module from a real Spektrum transmitter board. Huh. So the taranis is that much better than the dx6?
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Apr 10, 2016 19:19
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CrazyLittle posted:Why on earth would you use orangerx modules with a Taranis? I have a self built spekrum module for my taranis, it's great for bind and Flys and I use cheap 6 channel lemon receivers in all my cheap foamies.
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Apr 10, 2016 19:19
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Google Butt posted:Huh. So the taranis is that much better than the dx6? DX6 is a six channel transmitter that's $30 more expensive than a fully programmable 8-16 channel Taranis. FrSky receivers are also cheaper, which adds up quickly when you have 6+ models and don't feel like swapping the receiver around like a hot potato. Meanwhile, you should avoid flying DSM2 models if you possibly can, because that protocol doesn't support frequency hopping, which means that adjacent pilots can knock you out of the sky just by turning on their transmitter.
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Apr 10, 2016 19:23
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Takkaryx posted:
Which wire gives signal to the FC and which gives power? Looking at the circuit diagram for the FC (Naze32 6DF not Acro) only 1 pin of each trio is for signal. Ineptitude fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 19:39
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Unless the manufacturers of the ESC are being dicks by messing with wire colors, black means negative, red positive and what remains is the signal wire (probably yellow or white).
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Apr 10, 2016 19:44
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CrazyLittle posted:DX6 is a six channel transmitter that's $30 more expensive than a fully programmable 8-16 channel Taranis. FrSky receivers are also cheaper, which adds up quickly when you have 6+ models and don't feel like swapping the receiver around like a hot potato. Thanks for this. The dx6 is already on the way, so I'll return that when it comes. Turns out I can hack up the tx that came with my nqx for the module! I guess the radio is 10mw and the radio out of the dx5/dx4 is 100w, not sure if that's worth the cost.
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Apr 10, 2016 19:58
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Ineptitude posted:Thanks! If your ESC looks like the one you linked, then the black wire is negative and the white is signal. These should connect to pinouts on the FC. Each ESC will have a signal/neg wire leading to the FC. Hopefully the board will have numbers on the pinouts, and what order you plug the ESCs in will depend on the board (Northwest motor corresponds to pinout 1, northeast to 2, or maybe northwest 1 southwest 2, etc.)
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Apr 10, 2016 20:16
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Has anyone built one of the Spektrum modules? edit: nm found a guy on rcgroups who sells the boards all soldered up and ready to accept the module. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Apr 11, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 22:55
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youll just need a module from a dx4e or dx5 (make sure its a dsmx model, they'll have the logo on the shell) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spektrum-DX...JXCYiR#shpCntId is probably the cheapest you'll find
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Apr 11, 2016 05:45
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gay rites posted:youll just need a module from a dx4e or dx5 (make sure its a dsmx model, they'll have the logo on the shell) I won an auction for a dx5e earlier for the same exact price, but I didn't know about the dsmx label.. checked the listing and it says dsm2 . I think this should be fine with my Nano QX though, as I don't really plan on flying it around anyone who might also be flying. Argh dangit.
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Apr 11, 2016 07:39
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So of course I finally crashed my F450 the day I finished my arduino telemetry rig. It was pretty stupid too, just barely clipped a fence in my backyard, chipping both props on one of the sides. gently caress. I should have a set of extra props around somewhere from when I was ordering my plane stuff, but I never considered using them as they had... completely round, not-keyed holes, while the DJI motors and props have straight sides which prevents them from spinning freely on the shaft. Has anyone used regular, generic props on their DJI stuff? I can't find any real or clone DJI 10x3.8 props in stock anywhere locally.
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Apr 11, 2016 14:43
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