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A 2006 Honda Fit is not crazy old, and should be fairly reliable. Keep it, I'd say. A car is exactly as nice as you make it.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:31
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Corla Plankun posted:What I was getting at was more along the lines of "the routine upkeep of this car seems like it is approaching the cost of an Actual Nice Car's car payment, maybe I should do that instead". It's probably not, though. Say you are spending $1000 every six months. That's equal to a $168/month car payment. Buying a $23k car with $12,000 down and a 72 month long loan would still cost more per month.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:35
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Geirskogul posted:A 2006 Honda Fit is not crazy old, and should be fairly reliable. Keep it, I'd say. A car is exactly as nice as you make it. You're absolutely wrong.  My second car cost me $4,000 or so. In the next year I spent almost 9k in repairs. I sold it after roughly two years of ownership, and bought a brand new Focus (this was 2002, they were cheaper back then) for only about $3k more than I'd dumped into that loving Taurus.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:43
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Godholio posted:Taurus. A Taurus is not a car. It's a fever dream congealed into reality.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:47
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Geirskogul posted:A Taurus is not a car. It's a fever dream congealed into reality. My first Taurus was great. The second one...gently caress that beige piece of poo poo and it's relatively torquey 3.8L.
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Apr 11, 2016 22:01
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Anyone know anything about the new PSL Purolator filters that are supposed to be specifically designed to run with full synthetic oil? I've been using PL Purolator One filters since forever, and I'm wondering if the PSL's are worth the extra coin. Google is surprisingly unhelpful. Edit: I'm an idiot have a forum thread http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2549203/1 Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Apr 11, 2016 |
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Apr 11, 2016 23:18
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Not directly car related, but I have an ESL friend who's an English interpreter for Land/Jag, and they're looking to learn more about what's going in the manufacture and/or distribution sector of the automotive industry. Does anyone have any blogs, podcasts, or youtube channels that aimed at the business crowd rather than the enthusiast?
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Apr 12, 2016 03:36
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Autoblog.com is pretty decent for new car info without being too enthusiast oriented.
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Apr 12, 2016 12:35
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I have a Mercedes E200 year 2000 that's got a dead battery so I cant open it. It's got an eletronic key that works, and I'm missing the mechanical key. The alarm seems to be still activated (the red led is flashing). Is there an easy way for me to get into it without torturing the neighbors with an alarm that wont turn off? The car isnt in working condition and will be sold to a scrapyard so I dont mind breaking something.
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Apr 12, 2016 15:02
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TheRat posted:I have a Mercedes E200 year 2000 that's got a dead battery so I cant open it. It's got an eletronic key that works, and I'm missing the mechanical key. The alarm seems to be still activated (the red led is flashing). Is there an easy way for me to get into it without torturing the neighbors with an alarm that wont turn off? The car isnt in working condition and will be sold to a scrapyard so I dont mind breaking something. Will the alarm sound with a flat battery? Smash window, open bonnet, disconnect battery?
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Apr 12, 2016 15:21
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spog posted:Will the alarm sound with a flat battery? The alarm has its own battery I think
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Apr 12, 2016 15:28
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TheRat posted:The alarm has its own battery I think Smash window, open bonnet, smash alarm?
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Apr 12, 2016 15:30
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For anyone that was curious about how the van belt thing was resolved (SO FAR), I replaced the alternator belt and plucked a rock out of the AC/power steering belt and the squealing has gone for now. Now for a 600 mile road trip to test it...
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Apr 12, 2016 16:51
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Do you have a spare battery, booster pack, or battery charger? If you can jack the car up and get at where the cables connect to the main terminal on either the starter or the alternator - which are usually a direct connection to the battery positive - you can supplement or charge the battery sufficiently to get the electrics working again, so the car can be unlocked. And when you say you're missing the mechanical key, you're definitely missing the little one hidden in the key fob (it's the loop the keyring attaches to), yes?
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Apr 12, 2016 16:57
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InitialDave posted:Do you have a spare battery, booster pack, or battery charger? Your suggestion may be more sensible and practical, but mine was more fun. 
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Apr 12, 2016 17:04
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95 Camaro Z28 LT1 (it's a red car just fyi) Did my MAF sensor go out? It was unplugged when I bought it. I plugged it back in, it was running reaaaally rich, I was getting some backfiring, it stalled yesterday at a stop sign. I revved it kind of high (5000RPM) for a few seconds back at the house (assuming excess fuel) and the problem seemed to go away. MAF currently unplugged. Assuming MAF sensor is what's plugged into the intake tube. Other symptoms I've noticed with fuel: smokes on a cold start in the heat for about 5 seconds, when it's cold (~<50ºF) the car starts immediately. On a cold start in a hot day it takes 3-5 seconds to start. Hot starts are generally fast no matter what, unless the car has been sitting for 10-15 minutes, then it's back to 3-5 seconds. Dark black soot all over the mufflers. Most importantly is this an immediate concern? Thanks! Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 17:25
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InitialDave posted:Do you have a spare battery, booster pack, or battery charger? Can I do this without setting off the alarm? InitialDave posted:And when you say you're missing the mechanical key, you're definitely missing the little one hidden in the key fob (it's the loop the keyring attaches to), yes? Yeah, thats the one
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Apr 12, 2016 17:34
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I have a 2007 Nissan Murano. Recently, it started making a grinding sound from the right side whenever I make a hard right turn, especially at slow speeds. (This is the part where I exhibit a painful ignorance of automotive parts and repair) Here is a pic of the part above the wheel on the right side. See that hanging down? That goes in the "bad" category, right?  For comparison, here is the left side.  Is that my problem?
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Apr 12, 2016 17:42
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TheRat posted:Can I do this without setting off the alarm?
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Apr 12, 2016 17:48
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Knyteguy posted:95 Camaro Z28 LT1 (it's a red car just fyi) Picture of the item disconnected? It probably is the MAF, but there's also an intake air temperature sensor which I believe is nearby, and if it's broken it may be telling your car that it's really cold out and it needs more fuel. That could be completely wrong though. Running too much fuel would be an immediate concern for me. Does that car have an ODB1 sensor you can pull information from?
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Apr 12, 2016 18:08
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SperginMcBadposter posted:The adjuster is right below the wheel cylinder on this setup I have to go back to did you compare the old with the new before installing? Last time I was doing wheel cylinders the cylinder always wanted to push the rams out to the point where it wasn't really together until the whole thing was together. The rams would be to the brink of falling out with just the pressure of the spring inside. I looked through some old pictures you had of the last time you worked in the brakes and the old cylinders just look longer than the new ones. edit: regardless, I would imagine that once they're bled they'll be tight against the shoes. Without any pressure against the rams they won't retract and push any fluid back into the master and you'll pump it up. Provided they're the right cylinders and the pistons don't fall out of the ends.
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Apr 12, 2016 18:14
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Two questions! 2008 Mazda 3 GT 2.3L 5AT I get a strange vibration at 45 and 90km/h. Seems to be more intense the colder the car is. Happens on both my winter and summer tires, have had both sets balanced with no change. Changed front rotors/pads, no change. Gonna try the rear rotors/pads as well (if I can get the fuckers off). Any thoughts? 2011 Mini Cooper base model, 6MT A friend is considering buying one. 60k km on the clock, 1 owner, looks pretty pristine. I've read the reviews (and heard the horror stories from this very forum including ignition coils, wiper fluid resevoirs made of cardboard and janky timing chains). Are they a good buy, or avoid like the plague?
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Apr 12, 2016 18:29
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coronaball posted:I have a 2007 Nissan Murano. Recently, it started making a grinding sound from the right side whenever I make a hard right turn, especially at slow speeds. Nah. That's just a dust boot to protect the shock, you could cut it off entirely and the car wouldn't notice. Further diagnosis required, post a video of the sound if possible. Also try standing outside the car while someone else makes it do the noise so you can get a better idea of where it's coming from. MA-Horus posted:Two questions! 1. Probably an engine mount, my experience with mazda 3's leads me to believe the RH mount is made of lamingtons and cheese and always seems to collapse and lead to odd harmonics at certain RPM. 2. Everyone who has to work on one will tell you they are incredibly bad. Everyone who owns one will tell you they're good (those people are wrong and liars)
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Apr 12, 2016 20:12
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Slavvy posted:Nah. That's just a dust boot to protect the shock, you could cut it off entirely and the car wouldn't notice. Further diagnosis required, post a video of the sound if possible. Also try standing outside the car while someone else makes it do the noise so you can get a better idea of where it's coming from. A noise that gets worse when you turn into it makes me think wheel bearing. Does the noise get louder when you go faster?
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Apr 12, 2016 21:18
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My roommate has a 1997 Kia Sportage. On the way home from the store one eve the automatic transmission no longer wanted to shift into park and felt loose. It wouldn't go into any other gear but drive, including reverse and neutral. She shut the car off and got me because I'm more or less the most experienced in fixing cars. (Protip: I am not experienced in fixing cars). I determined the problem might be a broken linkage but wanted to investigate further. Upon removing the console and housing we forced the stick back into the park position. At this point we're trying to figure out what to do next. I'm not sure what I'm looking for a googling for assistance keeps bringing up people who hate this car, firmware updates for later models, etc. but no information on diagnosing transmission issues. I was wondering if you guys had any assistance you could provide or know of a good resource.
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Apr 13, 2016 00:34
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Godholio posted:A noise that gets worse when you turn into it makes me think wheel bearing. No, it only occurs on sharp right turns and only at slow speeds, like turning into or out of a driveway. When my wife gets home I'll do some experiments and try to hear it from outside the car and from the passenger side.
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Apr 13, 2016 00:37
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Skunkrocker posted:My roommate has a 1997 Kia Sportage. On the way home from the store one eve the automatic transmission no longer wanted to shift into park and felt loose. It wouldn't go into any other gear but drive, including reverse and neutral. She shut the car off and got me because I'm more or less the most experienced in fixing cars. (Protip: I am not experienced in fixing cars). I determined the problem might be a broken linkage but wanted to investigate further. Upon removing the console and housing we forced the stick back into the park position. At this point we're trying to figure out what to do next. I'm not sure what I'm looking for a googling for assistance keeps bringing up people who hate this car, firmware updates for later models, etc. but no information on diagnosing transmission issues. I was wondering if you guys had any assistance you could provide or know of a good resource. The only thing for it is to inspect the linkage the hard way. If everything under the console looks hunky dory, time to get under the car and look at the transmission end. Disconnect the cable/linkage (at the trans obv) and see if you can move the little lever on the trans itself through the various positions. Then try the same but with the shifter itself. That should tell you if your problem is linkage related or in the trans. Protip: if it's in the trans, she needs another car.
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Apr 13, 2016 01:02
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Slavvy posted:
gently caress me, never even thought about an engine mount. I did some reading up and there was something about the engine harmonics but nobody seemed to have a good fix for it. As for the mini, I laid out all the potential issues (timing chain, windshield fluid reservoir made of hopes and dreams, synthetic oil only, any front-end damage being horrifically expensive) and I think I persuaded them out of it. Looking at Corollas now. The also test-drove a new Beetle and said it was awful, so they're not total idiots. Thanks Slavvy!
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Apr 13, 2016 12:15
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Working at a Mazda dealer I replaced many of those mounts. There filled with fluid and leak it after hard usage. Basically driving in Chicago. They leak cause all strange kinds of driving sensations. Luckily they are easy as pie to replace and don't cost tooo much.
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Apr 13, 2016 23:20
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Why the gently caress is there fluid in them. Why do fwd motor mounts last 6 years but you can find a 454 chevy from the 70's on original mounts still going strong.
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Apr 14, 2016 01:21
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Christobevii3 posted:Why the gently caress is there fluid in them. Why do fwd motor mounts last 6 years but you can find a 454 chevy from the 70's on original mounts still going strong. i think theyre filled with glycol. I'm pretty sure modernish ford f150 engine mounts are too (I use to work at a machine shop that did concept designs for a ford plant nearby)
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Apr 14, 2016 01:33
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So there's a cavity to squirt windo-weld into, at least.
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Apr 14, 2016 01:53
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Christobevii3 posted:Why the gently caress is there fluid in them. Why do fwd motor mounts last 6 years but you can find a 454 chevy from the 70's on original mounts still going strong. V6 engines have poor balance and vibration characteristics that need to be damped by the engine mounts. V8 engines don't suffer this as much and can just use solid rubber mounts. Torque has really increased, too, which puts more strain on engine mounts.
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Apr 14, 2016 03:39
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Yeah but we're talking about an I4 here. We're just reaching the land of diminishing returns aboard the NVH reduction ship is all.
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Apr 14, 2016 04:41
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Uhh so how lovely is buying a new car in Canada (BC) these days? Dollar tanked so I assume it's just a terrible idea all around? I feel like I want to save up for a few years and buy the new Tesla Model 3, but I'm really hoping that "$35,000" price tag will not sky rocket to like $60,000 CAD.
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Apr 14, 2016 06:32
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How do you goons secure your cars? I'm looking at buying something fairly desirable to undesirables - can anyone recommend a good way of disabling the ignition? Possibly a remote cut-off switch in the cabin somewhere? I'm basically resigned to someone trying to stick a screwdriver in it but I'm hoping that's as far as they'll get.
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Apr 14, 2016 10:03
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Insurance. If they want it bad enough, there's nothing you can do to stop them, they'll just bring out a tow truck if they can't get it to start. If we're talking something like an Integra Type R (which is hilariously easy to steal, and still very much a theft target), a garage and parking something in front of the garage door will help.
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Apr 14, 2016 11:02
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I laughed at the VW "Service Position", where the entire front of the car has been removed to allow access to basic components in the overcrowded engine bay, but I genuinely wish I could pull my grille and front quarter panels really easily so that I don't have to do half of my maintenance through the wheel well. Now let's try to not bend the valves... The coolant drain plug on my block is completely stuck and there's barely enough room to get both my hand and a ratchet in the area from the botom, so how do I unstick it? There's definitely not enough room for my breaker, and I can't quite access it from the top to apply penetrating oil. Acording to the Civic forum guys, my not Genuine Honda Coolant© probably ate the seals on my first thermostat and is what's causing my water pump so much more grief than just the miles would, so I'd like to be able to remove all of the coolant for good before flushing a few times with distilled water. I'm kind of at the point with this bolt where my next step is to just put on safety goggles, pull my shirt over my nose and mouth, and spray oil at the bolt that's directly above my face, but I haven't slept in like ~40 hours and that plan sounds really dumb to me. Don't worry, I'm not going to do any real work without sleep, I just want to know for the next time I go into the garage so don't have to replace another pump in another 25k miles E: Here's some guy's picture of the bolt in question, because I just realized how dumb I sound. It sits just behind the oil filter and is annoying as hell to reach  The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 13:10
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Butt Wizard posted:How do you goons secure your cars? I'm looking at buying something fairly desirable to undesirables - can anyone recommend a good way of disabling the ignition? Possibly a remote cut-off switch in the cabin somewhere? A 400 lb block of concrete will do the job pretty well.
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Apr 14, 2016 15:20
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I’ve got a 2005 Honda civic with automatic transmission, about a week ago i had the brakes fixed up, alternator replaced, and the timing belt + water pump replaced. This morning while on the way to work I had to slam on my brakes to avoid an accident, and afterwards my oil pressure light and battery light came on and the brake and accelerator were locked. After the car came to a stop, I turned everything off and then back on again and everything worked just fine, aside from the slight smell of burnt rubber for a little bit afterwards. After some googling I can’t quite find something like this, so does anyone know what happened and if I should be worried or take it back in? I just spent a lot of money on the fix-ups so I’m really hoping it’s nothing serious.
CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 15:47
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