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grassy gnoll posted:I'm a sucker for any kind of hotrod metallic paint job, so the Hulkbuster is really doing it for me. I have a stupid question: instead of masking, would it have been simpler to just do the metallic base, airbrush the red all over, and then go back over the ultimately-not-red components with a black primer coat? Thanks! But yeah it could 100% been done a better way. It was the first time iv ever done masking like that and I didnt realize how much time it was going to take or how big of a pain it was going to be. No way i'll ever do that again.
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Apr 10, 2016 15:59
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TouchToneDialing posted:Repainted another action figure. No joke, I didn't read your post at first and was just scrolling by and was thinking that this was a question about how to make the action figure look like movie CG
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Apr 10, 2016 16:18
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Frobbe posted:The Neo for iwata airbrush, any comments on this? Pros: It works, it's got PTFE seals so you can use enamel/lacquers and their related thinners, it's cheap Cons: the threaded paint cups are annoying as gently caress to clean - imagine using black paint, flushing for your color change then spraying white and having your white paint tainted by the black... quote:the compressor looks decent, Eh...see the OP for comments about compressors. I may overdo it for the no-name stuff so it will work but build quality is quite variable. If you only airbrush irregularly it'll probably last you a while though. quote:and the remaining bits and bobs are generic, but i don't think air in particular cares what kind of hose it's going through. I have had shoddy air hoses, so although they are fairly generic and mass-produced you can get bad ones. A leak will force your compressor to run more often than it should, which will make it wear out sooner than it should. grassy gnoll posted:Somewhat related, I keep thinking about buying baby's first airbrush. Are there any detailed demonstration videos where someone's doing a ~25mm miniature with an airbrush and showing the process, like Faust's painting videos? I'm not aware of any videos like that, but it's something that I should do eventually. I do plan to do a series of airbrushing videos but there's so much to cover the playlist will be tons of videos. Tabletop Minions just started doing a video series on airbrushing though, not sure if he's going to do something like that. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 16:29
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TTerrible posted:
Quoting myself now that compressor chat is happening.
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Apr 10, 2016 16:37
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Sparmax TC-610H owners 
and they have almost completely isolated the compressor from the floor. It no longer transmits a hum through to the room underneath my nerdcave. I suspect other Sparmax feet are also M5 but I have no way of checking.
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Does anyone know of a product that either comes in or can be shaped into a transparent rod, cn be shaped (mainly bent) and then become or remain rigid? I am thinking of something like round transparent rod that could become bendable when heated and then rigid as it cools, but not sure if there is something like that about.
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Apr 10, 2016 17:08
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 Progress on my sentinels. i'm taking suggestions on how to do the plasma cannons! (ignore the currently blue bits, that's from my old scheme) I work in citadel colours.
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Apr 10, 2016 18:11
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TouchToneDialing posted:Thanks! But yeah it could 100% been done a better way. It was the first time iv ever done masking like that and I didnt realize how much time it was going to take or how big of a pain it was going to be. No way i'll ever do that again. Oh, no, don't get me wrong. I really have no idea if that'd work; I pretty much have no idea what I'm doing when I paint.  But I have had good results repriming over small parts of a model, like doing a base of black and then painting white on sections I want to put red over, as an example. It seemed like it was worth a shot. krushgroove posted:I'm not aware of any videos like that, but it's something that I should do eventually. I do plan to do a series of airbrushing videos but there's so much to cover the playlist will be tons of videos. Tabletop Minions just started doing a video series on airbrushing though, not sure if he's going to do something like that. That sounds extremely cool regardless. I'm a brush prole, so the stuff you guys do with airbrushes is basically magic to me.
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Apr 10, 2016 18:40
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Frobbe posted:
The only citadel colour I currently use is Baharaaothhhhhhhagththhh blue or something. It's great for plasma, makes a great highlight for turquoise with a small amount of white in the centre for a nice glow. I used it on the glowy bits of this model: 
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Apr 10, 2016 19:10
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TouchToneDialing posted:Repainted another action figure. Favorited for when I want to do the same to an Infinity model. Probably a character TAG or something appropriately imposing.
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Apr 10, 2016 22:14
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EAThief posted:I just finished painted something for the first time in like half a decade. I've painted stuff in the past but my method was basically dip spoon in paint, slap paint on model. I've spent some time reading advice and watching tutorials and finally painted this: I'd make the highlights on the.. uh... electric-y bits brighter. Make them pop a little more, make it look a little more glowy.
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Apr 11, 2016 01:00
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So, just for a bit of market research, I'm just curious what you guys think when you hear the word 'omega' in relation to wargaming. I think it can apply to modern and sci-fi settings just fine, but does it fit (or is it generic enough) for historical/fantasy settings as well?
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Apr 11, 2016 14:53
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For a greek setting sure, otherwise it would seem out of place to me for a historical set. Fantasy would work better I think as far as fitting.
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Apr 11, 2016 15:00
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Fantasy you might be okay with, depending on the specifics, but in the context of history-related entertainment it makes me think of bad evangelical products.
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Apr 11, 2016 15:08
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Frobbe posted:
I really dig those Sentinels! Say what you will about the stock Cadian schemes, they're good looking colors. I'd suggest doing some blackening on the smokestacks. You don't need to go as nuts with it as I go with my Orks, but it'll make them look more functional. Similarly, some weathering on the legs would be good. As for the plasma, I'd do the barrels gunmetal and the coils in a blue or purple. If you based them with a darker purple and built up to a pink I think that would look dope. krushgroove posted:So, just for a bit of market research, I'm just curious what you guys think when you hear the word 'omega' in relation to wargaming. I think it can apply to modern and sci-fi settings just fine, but does it fit (or is it generic enough) for historical/fantasy settings as well? 
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Apr 11, 2016 16:09
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Did a bit of repainting on an old metal reaper model I had lying around to try and practice blending on. I think the blue looks pretty good apart from in the middle where the lightest blue seemed to dry quite powdery. The skin went a bit too yellow so I had to glaze it down with some orange/apricot mix too.  Looking at the picture now the greys and whites on the sword look a bit out of place so I might hit it with a tiny bit of blue to tie it in with the rest of the model.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:49
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Anyone ever worked on the Reaper Dragon Tortoise, either the Bones one or the metal one? It is super badass looking, but I'm worried about how well it fits together.
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Apr 12, 2016 07:09
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Would love an opinion - Doing the Army badging for my Russessss Which way to go?  
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Apr 12, 2016 09:16
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Yeast posted:Would love an opinion - 2nd one definitely. First one makes more sense in terms of not completely negating the usefulness of any camouflage but the 2nd one pops more and looks cooler, and I'd pick cooler every time.
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Apr 12, 2016 09:20
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richyp posted:2nd one definitely. First one makes more sense in terms of not completely negating the usefulness of any camouflage but the 2nd one pops more and looks cooler, and I'd pick cooler every time. That's the best reasoning. Hull it is.
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Apr 12, 2016 09:47
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The second looks much better from a distance, and that way you also have a nice flat spot for a vehicle number or campaign badge on the turret.
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Apr 12, 2016 13:21
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richyp posted:Did a bit of repainting on an old metal reaper model I had lying around to try and practice blending on. I think the blue looks pretty good apart from in the middle where the lightest blue seemed to dry quite powdery. The skin went a bit too yellow so I had to glaze it down with some orange/apricot mix too. If you want smoother blends you're either not feathering your edges (going over the edges of where you just put down a layer with a damp brush in a back and forth motion) or not thinning enough, hard to tell. But as always, looks baller either way.
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Apr 12, 2016 13:27
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:If you want smoother blends you're either not feathering your edges (going over the edges of where you just put down a layer with a damp brush in a back and forth motion) or not thinning enough, hard to tell. Thanks. The paint was thinned to oblivion in so much as it was pools of water with a dot of paint added rather than the other way around. The problem I was having was with the lightest blue, Baharoth Blue which was the only citadel paint I used in the process. My pot of Baharoth blue just doesn't seem to want to thin like the rest as in it ends up being lots of blue particles suspended in water rather than the VMC blues which tint the water. I think because of this I may have ended up overdoing the last layer, now the glazes have dried I think it looks better except where the lightest shade dried (arrow on image below and the blue under her armpit are the worse culprits in natural light)  Camera phone image, but I might actually use the grey background in future as it seems to make the colours look more accurate on the model. I think its why the green-blue on her top and the orange-sand mix on the skin look smoother. I've got another inappropriately dressed miniature waiting for some paint that I'll have a go at tonight assuming the primer dries properly 
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Apr 12, 2016 14:02
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Does anyone have any experience in working with the type of resin that the Raging Heroes people use for their stuff? I have two models that I'm going to paint but even after two baths in warm water and dish washing soap they still feel a bit too glossy for me to believe they've been degreased enough. Should I give them a third bath and then go to town with an old toothbrush like with you do with Forgeworld resin or try basecoating them anyway?
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Apr 12, 2016 15:00
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The first run of Aetherium minis was the same way. I eventually just stopped worrying about it and primed them, which seemed to work OK. I did give them the warm-water and toothbrush treatment first though.
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Apr 12, 2016 15:33
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richyp posted:Thanks. Yeah certain paints are just gonna break under heavy dilution and citadel has more of them. You can probably fix it with mediums, but ehhhh effort. I only have a camera phone and black backgrounds are the only way I can get the colors to register properly.
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Apr 12, 2016 16:41
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Mostly finished the the Genestealer Patriarch model: Need to add some gore effect to the slime-like bits on the bottom and touch up a few things, but otherwise it was a nice getaway from the smaller and more detailed models I need to get back to.
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Apr 12, 2016 17:45
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Stayed up way too late working on this guy. Dig the model, but don't think he'll see much playtime. 
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Apr 12, 2016 18:38
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I dig that patriarch, Pierre. To me they should always be in purples and blues, but I bet he'll look really nice and cohesive next to the rest of your Genestealer cult. The blue brain glow is a nice touch. I wasn't really feeling the stock Tankbustas and their limited poses, so I made up my own. I used a bunch of leftover rokkits from my boyz kits, as well as some kustom rokkits I made using the kombi-rokkit bits from the Meganobz kit combined with some cut up burnas from the Burna/Loota kit. I'm really happy with the results, and it also let me use up some of the extra kommando/loota heads I had lying around to make a unique unit! There's only 7 right now since I actually ran out of Ork bodies, but I plan to have the unit go up to 9 strong and have them tool around with a mek in a looted wagon.       
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Apr 13, 2016 00:04
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  here's my mostly done reaper were-rat (I still need to do touch up mistakes glue the arms on, and give a wash) The fur patern was kind of a pain. I had to lay the paint on pretty thick and shove it into the holes to fill them. One of the next things I want to get is the mouse heros box set, so with this guy I'll have 17 ratlings to swarm my enemies.. Foolster41 fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 03:17
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Made a start on 
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Apr 13, 2016 11:13
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The eyes are really taking away from it.
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Apr 13, 2016 11:39
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lemonadesweetheart posted:The eyes are really taking away from it. Yeah the face is far from finished. I tend to mark out the eyes and lips before painting the rest of the face so it's easier to not go over the detail.. The dark rings around the edges will get covered with the last few layers of skin colour when I highlight the cheeks and eyebrows.
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Apr 13, 2016 11:49
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worked some more on my sentinels gonna work up the courage to add some light blue to shade the windows and the guns are far from finished. also found my bottle of Vallejo smokey ink, which is great for oily effects!
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Apr 13, 2016 13:41
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richyp posted:Yeah the face is far from finished. I tend to mark out the eyes and lips before painting the rest of the face so it's easier to not go over the detail.. The dark rings around the edges will get covered with the last few layers of skin colour when I highlight the cheeks and eyebrows. 
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Apr 13, 2016 15:13
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M Bison? F Bison, surely
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Apr 13, 2016 16:00
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Tits M Bison
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Apr 13, 2016 17:55
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Who makes the best metallics now? Looking for a dull brownish metallic bronze/brass. None of this garish yellowy nonsense tia.
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Apr 13, 2016 18:26
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sassassin posted:Who makes the best metallics now? Looking for a dull brownish metallic bronze/brass. None of this garish yellowy nonsense tia. Scale75 by a country mile. Vallejo Model Air makes great silvers but trash golds.
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Apr 13, 2016 18:30
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Fanzay posted:M Bison? F Bison, surely Mme. Bison
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Apr 13, 2016 18:43
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Ugh you guys are bad at this. Femme Bison, you welcome. Looks neat.
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Apr 13, 2016 19:10
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