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Here is a review of the shapertools.com router. I think it showed up in the thread a while back. Not available to buy yet, but I am seriously going to consider getting one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8GFpSCK6Jk&t=210s
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Apr 12, 2016 14:23
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That is super cool, I want one, and I have no idea what I would use it for.
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Apr 12, 2016 15:30
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Just want to humblebrag about this box I made. Sure I made it in a class, sure I didn't design it, sure I used rented tools, but dang it, these hands built this out of blanks and I'm proud of it. 
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Apr 12, 2016 15:49
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That's a really sweet looking box! What kind of hinges?
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Apr 12, 2016 15:53
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I'm working on a jewelry box for my wife. I made groove with my router for the doors to slide in. I think that the shapertools router would have made it so simple to do. https://www.instagram.com/p/BECoDMNlSL-/
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Apr 12, 2016 15:59
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Shab posted:Just want to humblebrag about this box I made. Sure I made it in a class, sure I didn't design it, sure I used rented tools, but dang it, these hands built this out of blanks and I'm proud of it. That's nice work man. Woodworking classes are fantastic and I hope to get back to taking them soon. I'd never discount my work just because I made it in a class.
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Apr 12, 2016 16:21
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Double post quick reminder: Lee Valley is doing free shipping until the 18th on any order over $40. Just got my reamer and conical tennon cutter ordered along with the upgrade kit for my plow plane. Gonna make me some chairs.
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Apr 12, 2016 16:58
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Opioid posted:That's a really sweet looking box! What kind of hinges? Thanks dudes. No hinges here, free floating top held in place by those extended corners.
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Apr 12, 2016 18:34
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mds2 posted:Here is a review of the shapertools.com router. I think it showed up in the thread a while back. Not available to buy yet, but I am seriously going to consider getting one. That is really awesome but I didn't need another tool to lust after.
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Apr 12, 2016 20:47
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Un chien andalou posted:That is really awesome but I didn't need another tool to lust after. Bullshit 
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Apr 12, 2016 21:08
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I'm finally in a place that has enough space for me to carve out a little workshop. I had free time, but don't have a way to cut sheet goods (grandpa giving me a box of loot later this month) so I said gently caress it and had the guy at home depot rip some OSB and hardboard at 30". Spent the rest of my $50 on lumber and screws and make myself a bench:    Over-engineered, but I wanted it to be pretty robust, and was honestly just pumped at how much lumber I bought. It's miraculously nice and level, considering I cut everything on the floor with an ancient miter saw.
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Apr 13, 2016 02:45
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I had a mobile saw mill come out to my house and slab up my 8' cedar elm log that was left over from a tree in my yard, and I took some photos to boot! With the ultimate intention of building a table top of some sort, the guys working the Lucas Mill thought it was best for this particular log to cut ~ 3" slabs, with each being about 18" across. Was that the best decision? I have no idea, but the wood looks pretty cool, and hopefully by the time it has dried out, I'll have the skills to do something with it. http://imgur.com/a/Vska4 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 03:38
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MetaJew posted:I had a mobile saw mill come out to my house and slab up my 8' cedar elm log that was left over from a tree in my yard, and I took some photos to boot! That's pretty drat sweet and convenient. What does something like that cost?
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Apr 13, 2016 03:43
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MetaJew posted:I had a mobile saw mill come out to my house and slab up my 8' cedar elm log that was left over from a tree in my yard, and I took some photos to boot! So is it elm or is it cedar? edit. Apparently a variety of elm. I didn't realize there was such a thing, lol. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 03:46
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Falco posted:That's pretty drat sweet and convenient. What does something like that cost? In theory, it wasn't too expensive. $65/hour for the cutting and $1/mile (round trip) for them to come to me. I wound up being build $250.50 for 2.5 hours of work and 41 miles, one way to come to me. The sore part about this is that the (alleged) previous employees to use the mill overtorqued, or crossthreaded one of the 6 bolts holding the circular saw blade to the arbor. As a result, they wasted an hour of my billable time trying to remove it. I wound up having to lend some tools and an impact gun to get the bolt out. In addition, (allegedly) the previous guy ALSO put diesel fuel in one of the gas cans they use for the saw, so the saw was hard to start and BILLOWING blue smoke out of the exhaust the entire time it operated. The v-twin on the mill has a "UNLEADED FUEL ONLY" sign clearly placed on it. I'm in the process of trying to get refunded for at least an hour of that labor. We'll see if the manager will budge. TL;DR: The actual assembly, sharpening of the chain (also why wasn't this done before coming to me?) and slabbing of the log probably took between 1-1.5 hours. Mr. Mambold posted:So is it elm or is it cedar? Yes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulmus_crassifolia
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Apr 13, 2016 03:51
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There's no way you should be charged for their gently caress up time, sharpening only if it got blunted during your job and needed resharpening to finish. E: ordered a Scheppach PL55 plunge saw and track, worst reviews I can find compare then unfavorably to Festool at 3-5 times the price.
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Apr 13, 2016 11:14
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Just got a very apologetic phone call. They're refunding me an hour off the bill. I probably should've asked for more based on your comment about sharpening, but honestly I didn't know the etiquette for this type of business. I'm happy that I'm getting refunded for the worst of the offense, though. Question about air drying wood: if I stick these slabs in my shed in the back yard, stickered is that good enough? I'm in central Texas and the shed has ridge vents so air can flow out of it. In the summer it will be nearly as hot as a kiln.
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Apr 13, 2016 13:58
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MetaJew posted:Just got a very apologetic phone call. They're refunding me an hour off the bill. I probably should've asked for more based on your comment about sharpening, but honestly I didn't know the etiquette for this type of business. I'm happy that I'm getting refunded for the worst of the offense, though. Paint both ends.
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Apr 13, 2016 14:29
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Paraffin mixed with a bit of mineral spirits does nicely also
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Apr 13, 2016 14:34
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I painted both ends of the log with anchor seal a little while after the tree was cut down. Do I need to apply a second coat now?
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Apr 13, 2016 15:33
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Any opinions on moisture meters such as this one? General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_RyRdxbVPFHWXH
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Apr 13, 2016 22:13
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MetaJew posted:I painted both ends of the log with anchor seal a little while after the tree was cut down. Do I need to apply a second coat now? Wouldn't hurt. MetaJew posted:Any opinions on moisture meters such as this one? That'll be fine.....in about 3 years.
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Apr 13, 2016 22:56
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So don't even bother with one for the foreseeable future?
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Apr 13, 2016 23:15
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A year per inch air-drying is the rule of thumb. You said 3" thick, right?
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Apr 14, 2016 00:31
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Data is fun. Is there any reason to track moisture content over time?
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Apr 14, 2016 00:48
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Well if you run a kiln you'd definitely want to track that. Outside of occupational use? Not really. For woodworking you just need to check at the time you're going to use the wood. Dry enough is just a threshold check.
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Apr 14, 2016 02:01
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I bought a maple slab just like this one but smaller to make into end tables. It's my first attempt at woodworking. Here's my plan 1. Remove bark 2. Cut with a 60T ultra finish saw blade 3. Sand with 150 and 200 grit 4. Attach legs 5. Poly/wax Anything I'm forgetting? I like the natural finish so I wasn't gonna stain it. Any suggestion for what to use to protect the wood?
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Apr 14, 2016 14:32
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I bought a maple slab just like this one but smaller to make into end tables. It's my first attempt at woodworking. If it's got bark, does that mean it's still green? If so, it's gonna need to dry. edit. FIRST Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 14:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:If it's got bark, does that mean it's still green? No. It just means it hasnt fallen off yet.
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Apr 14, 2016 15:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:If it's got bark, does that mean it's still green? If so, it's gonna need to dry. The lumber yard said its kiln dried, and it feels like its dry.
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Apr 14, 2016 16:09
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:The lumber yard said its kiln dried, and it feels like its dry. Well your punchlist is pretty general, but poly is a good sealer for indoor use. I'd go with an oil based poly or varnish, but shellac is well regarded too. Try some on sample pieces when you get to that point.
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Apr 14, 2016 17:01
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:5. Poly/wax Polyurethane and wax will be just fine. For many years I hated polyurethanes because of bad experiences early on but in the last year I've been using some left over Parks waterbase poly floor finish. There is barely any smell and as long as I keep the coats thin it dries quickly. It's almost as quick to use as shellac and it doesn't have the cool blue tint that some waterbase polys use to have. Note, you couldn't see the blue but multiple coats would tint the wood toward a cooler brown whereas oil based products give a yellow (warm) tint. Blonde shellac gives an almost neutral but slightly yellow tint. Amber and red shellacs give an orange or red tint. Acrylic lacquer is neutral. My personal preference on maple is blonde shellac, acrylic lacquer, or the Parks I've been using.
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Apr 14, 2016 18:00
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wormil posted:Polyurethane and wax will be just fine. For many years I hated polyurethanes because of bad experiences early on but in the last year I've been using some left over Parks waterbase poly floor finish. There is barely any smell and as long as I keep the coats thin it dries quickly. It's almost as quick to use as shellac and it doesn't have the cool blue tint that some waterbase polys use to have. Note, you couldn't see the blue but multiple coats would tint the wood toward a cooler brown whereas oil based products give a yellow (warm) tint. Blonde shellac gives an almost neutral but slightly yellow tint. Amber and red shellacs give an orange or red tint. Acrylic lacquer is neutral. My personal preference on maple is blonde shellac, acrylic lacquer, or the Parks I've been using. Speaking of finishes, did I ever tell you I could have apprenticed with Bob Flexner back in the day? If only I'd been independently rich and not needing to work for a living....and broke half the time anyways.
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Apr 14, 2016 18:05
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Butchered a pretty block of figured spalted maple today. I realized early on that it was a little too punky to do anything exact with, but it was good practice. Is there anything I can do to fit the back on any smoother? I feel like when I try and sand the two surfaces, it often makes it fit less well. Would a better blade help? 
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Apr 15, 2016 02:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:Speaking of finishes, did I ever tell you I could have apprenticed with Bob Flexner back in the day? No but go ahead and finish your story. 
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Apr 15, 2016 03:49
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meanolmrcloud posted:Butchered a pretty block of figured spalted maple today. I realized early on that it was a little too punky to do anything exact with, but it was good practice. Is there anything I can do to fit the back on any smoother? I feel like when I try and sand the two surfaces, it often makes it fit less well. Would a better blade help? And on that topic, has anyone here attempted to make their own spalted boards?
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Apr 15, 2016 15:05
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wormil posted:No but go ahead and finish your story.  I had moved back to town from Tulsa in 1980 to escape a horrible marriage, and because my friend Johnny  said he'd opened a cabinet shop on East Main St., come partner up. We'd worked together before doing residential and commercial cabinets & trim, that sort of stuff. John figured it was a good location for attracting walk-ins in general. That part of town had an Andy of Mayberry vibe to it then. Now it's tattoo shops and bistros.A mile or so east of there is a state mental institution, so from time to time we'd get walk-ins from outpatients. Usually walk-bys, like the "Glove Man", a well-known and mostly well liked schizophrenic. So one day we've got the lumber list delivered for a job, but Johnny forgot to order glue. I'm going to go pick up some yellow glue from the nearest lumber yard, which at that time there were at least 2 within 3 or 4 blocks of us. He says," naw, go over to that guy 2 doors down and borrow some"- like you'd borrow sugar from a neighbor. I didn't know about the guy 2 doors down. "Borrow in what, my hands?" Johnny gives me a styrofoam coffee cup. "He's a woodworker, but not like what we do. Guy's a little weird." So that's how I met Bob. He's alone in this dusty shop with a bunch of dusty antique furniture all over the drat place. A shelf full of different veneers, hand tools all over the place. Nothing electric or air-driven that I can see. And a hotpot, which is where his glue is. Hide glue, the real thing. He's wearing this leather apron, and I'm thinking "yeah this guy doesn't do what we do." So I introduce myself, say we forgot to order glue for our job, does he have any aliphatic or even white glue. So Bob smiles and says, "no, all he's got is hide glue in a pot." Probably wouldn't work for what we do. I'm kind of impressed by his setup, it's Old School authentic and I get immediately this guy has forgotten more about woodworking that John and I know. And damned if he isn't respectful of how we make a living, it's just not his way of doing wood. He's got antiques stacked around from people waiting- like a year long waiting list. And he said flat out he doesn't restore craptiques or more modern stuff. It had to appeal to him. So I come back by to visit from time to time to get his take or advice on certain kinds of joinery, that sort of thing. He had literally gone to Denmark, I think, and apprenticed with a Master woodworker to learn how it was done. Maybe that guy specialized in antique restoration, idk, but that's what Bob did. And ended up marrying the guy's daughter and bringing her back to the States. And one of these times I let him know I'd love to learn to do what he does. He's like "Yeah, you've noticed I don't really socialize with people too well, and I couldn't pay you anything. But basically he would have been ok with me tagging in and helping him. Problem was, I had bills to pay and not enough hours in the day. One day he was pretty excited, saying he was making some videos for Taunton press. I knew they put out Fine Woodworking, so that was suitably impressive. Last time I talked to him, he had a book out on Finishing, which I promised to buy (but I never did  , shame on me)I haven't seen him for years, and last time I was in that neighborhood, our old shop is now a trendy bistro....he may still be using his shop or have handed it off to another guy, not sure. You never could see into the windows of it- that was by his design.
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Apr 15, 2016 17:09
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I am going to be making some wood toys for my nephews and need some finish and paint advice. It will be some fake tools, trucks and some boats. I was thinking about milk paint for the trucks because I want to try it out. But the boats are going to be in the water and probably in a small child's mouth. So what would you recommend for a simple finish or nontoxic waterproof paint that you like?
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Apr 16, 2016 01:53
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A couple months ago I went to our local woodworkers meeting with my dad and the guest speaker was a finishing specialist and spent two hours talking about chatoyance and shellac. The group does a kids toy making drive every year so they asked the same questions about kid safe finishes. He recommended shellac and started listing all the foods covered in it that we eat everyday. The main risk he talked about was exposing people to finishes still drying with VOCs.
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Apr 16, 2016 06:33
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bred posted:A couple months ago I went to our local woodworkers meeting with my dad and the guest speaker was a finishing specialist and spent two hours talking about chatoyance and shellac. The group does a kids toy making drive every year so they asked the same questions about kid safe finishes. He recommended shellac and started listing all the foods covered in it that we eat everyday. The main risk he talked about was exposing people to finishes still drying with VOCs. Well, its just bug juice in alcohol, it should be pretty nontoxic. I think if still probably go with something like salad bowl finish.
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Apr 16, 2016 15:04
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